200ci 1965 Mustang

[Frank]

Hey, the rotors are 10 1/4. Nothing else needs to be replaced. The passenger side rotor is warped bc the power booster was adjusted incorrectly. This caused the front brakes to drag, overheat, and warp. At least, thats what we think. I don’t really want to but a new front brake kit. I was hoping to find rotors that size that I could replace with.

The booster will not directly cause a brake to drag, it's the caliper most likely. On reinstall, be sure the pins are deburred of old rust and crud. A drill operated wire wheel works well. then use the disk brake grease lube on them to be sure the caliper releases fully when the pressure is released. I've ruined rotors a couple of times before realizing the old caliper was sticky, not releasing all the way.

 

[78_200_C4]

Why run a booster when a 15/16" 74 Maverick master cylinder stop an early Mustang or Falcon just fine. It will have about 8% less pedal effort than a 1" bore master cylinder.

 

[TrickSix]

Sounds like you've got a lead on the rotors you need. FWIW, the Scarebird rotors are about 9-3/4" in diameter. Back when I was thinking about converting to disc brakes, this future custom parts availability issue was why I thought Scarebird was the way to go if you plan on keeping your car long-term.

 

[CWT1129]

Hey Frank, so I just got the car back yesterday. The rotors were replaced, brakes bled, calipers slide and retract as they should. Front brakes are still locking up after 4 or so miles. The place I took it said they adjusted the pushrod, but I think they are full of shit. There’s no possibility that the pushrod going into the master cylinder is too long and that’s causing the issue? I don’t know what else it would be

 

[clochard68]

Hey Frank, so I just got the car back yesterday. The rotors were replaced, brakes bled, calipers slide and retract as they should. Front brakes are still locking up after 4 or so miles. The place I took it said they adjusted the pushrod, but I think they are full of shit. There’s no possibility that the pushrod going into the master cylinder is too long and that’s causing the issue? I don’t know what else it would be

I had similar problems. In my case the brake pedal didn't move completely back to the neutral position on it's own. I added a spring to the break pedal and the issue was gone.

 

[bubba22349]

The Master Cylinder Push Rod should have an eccentric adjustment to them its fairly easy to do. And the Power Booster Push Rod should also have an adjustment on the end of push rod it's not quite as easy as the regular Master Cylinders but is not that hard to do.

 

[Frank]

I had similar problems. In my case the brake pedal didn't move completely back to the neutral position on it's own. I added a spring to the break pedal and the issue was gone.

Yes, same issue and solution on an old car. Be sure the pedal is coming up "firmly". If it's slow or floats at the top, add a spring.

 

[CWT1129]

Ty guys. Turns out the pushrod was way too far in causing pre load like I expected. I ended up dialing it back so that the pedals engages at a good spot and retracts with no issues. Just wish I would have realized this in the beginning. When adding headers, where should we set our choke hose if we are keeping the automatic choke with the 1v carbs? Also, my car starts fine, runs fine at both high and low idle. But after driving awhile, it sometimes runs rough and stalls like it’s running too lean or the choke is closed. New fuel pump, points, etc. The carb was also rebuilt. Wondering if it a plug issue bc sometimes I hear a some miss fire at the exhaust. Any thoughts?