200ci 1965 Mustang

[districtqc]

No issues, but my car is a 67 comet , my engine bay Might be bigger than yours.

For the Ebay headers split my guess is since the firing order is 153624 the exhaust pulses alternate between the two "Banks" of 3 cylinders. So with a y pipe joining the two together (or a x pipe with duals) maybe There is some scavenging effect going on.

And with the sd headers you get the 5 and 3 pulses in the same bank, my understanding is they did this to achieve a more V8-ish sound.

Crossplane V8 have this exhaust pulses order between the two "Banks": left right left right right left right left.

A sd headers would be : back front front back front back

The Ebay headers is : back front back front back front

Hope that makes sense !

Thanks! I see the Ebay collect 1-2-3 and 4-5-6. Does that make a difference compared to the SD which collect 1-4-6 and 2-3-5? Also, Distric, did u run into any issues installing the Ebay ones?

 

[CWT1129]

Hey, would u be able to post a video of how it sounds with idle and rev? Also, did u upgrade to a 2v?

 

[districtqc]

Hey, would u be able to post a video of how it sounds with idle and rev? Also, did u upgrade to a 2v?

Yes i Will do it !

Yes i upgraded to a 2v , with an adapter for the Time being, i'm waiting for the machine shop to finish rebuilding and milling a 1975 250 head for a 2v without the adapter

 

[CWT1129]

Nice, where did u get the 250 head from? Tough to find! Most people want the VI aluminum head! Did you feel like u got a power boost with the 2v carb/headers/exhaust/distributor?

 

[districtqc]

Nice, where did u get the 250 head from? Tough to find! Most people want the VI aluminum head! Did you feel like u got a power boost with the 2v carb/headers/exhaust/distributor?

I found the head on marketplace locally, actually i bought the whole engine, but the bottom end seems to be Locked Up, so i'm salvaging the head.

There is a good Power increase, but its hard to Say how Much better than stock it is because before the mods the engine ran very poorly, carb was shot, pissing fuel Everywhere, manifold was leaking like crazy , points weren't ajusted properly and plugs were oil fouled. I had issues just following modern traffic, accélération was really poor

Now it has a lot of bottom end torque , i van easily accelerate like modern cars at half throttle i would Say, just before the secondary Barrel opens. So, good improvement There. But the best thing is the throttle response , its super crisp. Before i couldnt blip the thottle , now rev-matching is a breeze !

 

[CWT1129]

Gotcha, which 2v carb did u go with?. I am thinking about the Weber 38/38. Seems like there’s less chance that the engine falls flat in it’s face when accelerating. Being that both barrels are olen at the same time.

 

[districtqc]

Gotcha, which 2v carb did u go with?. I am thinking about the Weber 38/38. Seems like there’s less chance that the engine falls flat in it’s face when accelerating. Being that both barrels are olen at the same time.

I went with the 32/36 a bit smaller but the fuel economy is great. My comet is a station wagon , and i get 20-22 mpg !

 

[Kritas]

I went with the 38 and Lokar cable. I love it, but haven't been running it very long. I have a jet kit for tuning the carb later on.

 

[districtqc]

I went with the 38 and Lokar cable. I love it, but haven't been running it very long. I have a jet kit for tuning the carb later on.

Would you mind if possible to check what kind of fuel mileage you get with the 38 ? I'm curious about that !

 

[Kritas]

Would you mind if possible to check what kind of fuel mileage you get with the 38 ? I'm curious about that !

It'll be a few weeks. I'm starting on a garage remodel tomorrow and I still have a few things to do before putting the car back on the road. I'm more interested in performance than mileage, which is why I went with the 38 over the 32/36 given the larger log and valves, header, and larger diameter exhaust.

 

[Colorado66]

I have the Clifford headers that I had ceramic coated. I see they still make them, but maybe they are more expensive than the Ebay ones?

When I had the exhaust built I did not add a crossover pipe and other than the 3x1 Offy on it I am not planning a turbo or anything.

 

[CWT1129]

I have heard multiple cars with the SD headers/true dual exhaust. Some have 1v carbs and others 2v. I think initially I will stick with the 1v but upgrade the distributor. Do u think will run lean d/t the header/exhaust upgrade?

 

[78_200_C4]

Thanks! I see the Ebay collect 1-2-3 and 4-5-6. Does that make a difference compared to the SD which collect 1-4-6 and 2-3-5? Also, Distric, did u run into any issues installing the Ebay ones?

I flattened the bottom of the eBay header # 6 tube. I also flattened the top of cover on my 78 2 bolt starter.
I extended the top alternator bracket 5" so my 12SI alternator would clear the # 1 tube.
I haven't had any starter overheating problems.
I'm running a Jones stamped 2" Y which fit the eBay header perfectly.
I expanded a 2-1/4" inside exhaust pipe a little bit to fit it over the Jones 2" inside Y outlet.
The over the rear end pipe is a CJ Pony Parts 2-1/4" pipe adapted to a 2-1/2' turbo muffler.
It sounds and runs great. It now has much more top end power than with the 68 + 2" outlet exhaust manifold.
The 3-4 ports on a log head six are siamese which connects the 2 groups of 3 header pipes.

 

[vancouvrdave]

I would suggest the new small six high flow manifold. https://www.amazon.com/Scott-Drake-C3OZ-9430-HF-Exhaust-Manifold/dp/B0B49TJLRZ

 

[districtqc]

I would suggest the new small six high flow manifold. https://www.amazon.com/Scott-Drake-C3OZ-9430-HF-Exhaust-Manifold/dp/B0B49TJLRZ

That manifold looks like a good candidate for a turbo setup !

 

[Jmustang_65]

That manifold looks like a good candidate for a turbo setup !

The aussiespeed would be better for a turbo manifold.

 

[CWT1129]

What is better for deeper tones. X or H Pipe? Def want to minimize the raspyness!

 

[78_200_C4]

That manifold looks like a good candidate for a turbo setup !

I would suggest the new small six high flow manifold. https://www.amazon.com/Scott-Drake-C3OZ-9430-HF-Exhaust-Manifold/dp/B0B49TJLRZ

I would suggest the new small six high flow manifold. https://www.amazon.com/Scott-Drake-C3OZ-9430-HF-Exhaust-Manifold/dp/B0B49TJLRZ

That looks like a 68 + 2" outlet "High Flow" exhaust manifold. An eBay header will greatly out perform that manifold. I just replaced a manifold like that with an ebay header. The top end power increase is amazing. I am happier than hell after running a 2" outlet exhaust manifold for many years.

 

[Frank]

What is better for deeper tones. X or H Pipe? Def want to minimize the raspyness!

X pipe is better. Raspy or "chunky" exhaust is caused by irregular flow. A single exhaust will be the smoothest, and if it's coming off a dual outlet header, will have more power than duals, assuming the pipe is sized to match.
If you want smooth, rasp-free sound use headers that split 1,2,3/4,5,6. The other pairing you listed in post #20 will not sound smooth. And will not flow as well. If you want a V8 sound- get a V8. They always sound chunky because they can't fire evenly bank-to-bank. the I6 exhaust is evenly pulse-balanced back and forth with a 1,2,3/4,5,6 dual outlet exhaust manifold or header.
If you keep duals use an X pipe, or you're giving up measurable torque, and IMO the dual pipes should be no bigger than 2". Big pipes sound deeper, but they cause poorer scavenging because the flow slows down. The power differences at our power levels are small, so If you want a deep tone, use bigger pipe. but on a dyno max torque-power with that engine displacement would occur with 1 1/2" dual pipes after a X, or a single 2" or at most 2 1/4" pipe after a Y.

 

[CWT1129]

Thanks Frank, I appreciate it. I have heard some cars on youtube that have the clifford or sd headers with true duals that do not have the rasp. I agree that bigger pipes just equal bigger sound. Do you think a 2v carb is needed right away with adding dual headers?