A carb upgrade is not required to upgrade the exhaust, it can be done later after the piggy-bank gets restocked. An improvement in performance and economy will still be gained even with the 1 barrel.
200ci 1965 Mustang
- Thread starter CWT1129
- Start date
This applies only to 200ci
The two banks of headers are connected at the siamese 3-4 exhaust port.
So you have a 1965 Mustang 200.
Most likely you have a performance killing Load'O'Matic distributor and a spark valve Autolite 1100 which has about 1/2 the CFM flow a good running 200 six needs.
A header can be a great performance boost but:.
I believe the first perforemance improvement should be a distributor with a quick mechanical advance curve then a carb. with more CFM flow
Most likely you have a performance killing Load'O'Matic distributor and a spark valve Autolite 1100 which has about 1/2 the CFM flow a good running 200 six needs.
A header can be a great performance boost but:.
I believe the first perforemance improvement should be a distributor with a quick mechanical advance curve then a carb. with more CFM flow
I agree a 100%. My plan is to upgrade the distributor and the exhaust. Hopefully upgrade the carb down the road. I know that the distributor alone can make a difference. What’s everyone’s thoughts on a HEI distributor? Also has any one ever had their back brakes lock up? My car will drive a little bit then they lock up. Weird thing is they release on their own!
I followed the same path that 78_200_C4 recommended. It was even more effective since I have a 250 large log head. I like the HEI (I stuck in a cheap Amazon HEI unit as a temporary fix), but it's big and a lot of people find them ugly. I have a programmable HEI unit on the way that looks much more "factory". My goal was to get the car on the road by doing the most needed fixes first (exhaust, brakes, fuel, cooling) and sorting out the finer points of performance later.
Yeh, the car is road worthy. Minus the back brake locking up. It was checked recently and not sure if the brake were adjusted too tight. I also used the parking brake with transport and wonder if it is still a little hung up inside the drums. It’s just weird that it resolves itself and the happens after a 5-10 minute drive. My guess is that something is causing the brakes to drag minimally and it gets worse when they heat up. The brakes were bled two weeks ago. It could also be the power booster I guess.
Im running ebay headers with 2.5", single exit ( single chamber muffler and a resonator). I have a 144. Heres a link to a cold start if you want to see what it sounds like.
Personally, I like the Duraspark II systems. They're made for Fords, they're extremely reliable, you can get replacement boxes and distributors at most any auto parts store, and you can equip them with a small cap so they look like the original stock distributor.
About your back brakes - could be there's something wrong inside the drums. You'll have to look. Hopefully you've already gotten a good shop manual to help you out with your troubleshooting and maintenance.
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I am running a black cap HEI on my 200 without any problems.
I installed the springs from an advance kit. (don't use the weights).
I installed the HEI to replace a "rebuilt" Duraspark that had a worn out bushing.
I removed the module from the HEI distributor, installed it on a CPU cooler that sticks out thru my radiator support.
The HEI module runs cooler than the radiator support.
I gapped the spark plugs .032 for performance and the reliability of the HEI system.
I installed the springs from an advance kit. (don't use the weights).
I installed the HEI to replace a "rebuilt" Duraspark that had a worn out bushing.
I removed the module from the HEI distributor, installed it on a CPU cooler that sticks out thru my radiator support.
The HEI module runs cooler than the radiator support.
I gapped the spark plugs .032 for performance and the reliability of the HEI system.
I think you mentioned a power brake booster earlier. Four-lug power disc brakes were not standard, and thus you must have some kind of aftermarket brake system. Perhaps pics and some specs might help somebody recognize just what you have for rotors.
SSBC still makes 4 lug disc components. Check out their setups.
ssbc-usa.com
Mustang Conversion Kits
SSBC-USA is a leading automotive brake systems manufacturer based in Elma, NY. Our state-of-the-art 18,000-square-foot facility produces drum-to-disc conversion kits for classics, custom 8-piston calipers for heavy-duty trucks and other quality brake components for high-performance vehicles.
ssbc-usa.com
Since you said it’s on a 1965 Mustang with 4 Lug Disks what size are they? Pictures may help Id them too. Might be the old Scare Bird Disk Brake Kit which I think used a Disk Rotor off another brand, the Mustang II Disk Brake Rotors are a 9-1/4" diameter.
10.25" rotors with 4 lugs in my link.
ssbc-usa.com
A120-5 Front 64-66 Mustang pw 4 lug
FRONT POWER DISC BRAKE CONVERSION KIT, FOR 4LUG, FOR 6-CYLINDER VEHICLES 1964 ½ - 1966, FORD MUSTANG ORIGINAL This kit contains all the parts you need to convert your 1964.5-1966, 6 cylinder Ford Mustang with automatic transmission from drum to disc brakes. Manufactured from quality materials...
ssbc-usa.com
Hey, the rotors are 10 1/4. Nothing else needs to be replaced. The passenger side rotor is warped bc the power booster was adjusted incorrectly. This caused the front brakes to drag, overheat, and warp. At least, thats what we think. I don’t really want to but a new front brake kit. I was hoping to find rotors that size that I could replace with.
I understand. You can try calling them to ask about fitment and pricing on the rotors alone.
