Twin turbo factory

Pmuller9, just a thought, how about 2 smaller turbo’s and transbrake, wouldn’t the smaller turbo’s spool faster , instead of the bump brake thing.
OK I never used one before, so I will follow your advice 100%. I’m tired of making mistakes and having to adjust to make it work right. Aproximit. Time of delay needed to make it work. 550 to 600 hp.
 
The time it takes to get 8 to 10 lbs of launch boost depends on how well the torque curve of the head and cam combination match the turbochargers compressor size as well as the turbine housings A/R.
It also depends on how high the torque converter stall speed allows the engine to rev against the rev limiter when you set the transbrake.
 
didnt read past #52 as this Q kept preventing that.
"...I do like the sound of that , release the brake and hold on. Troy had a button on the steering wheel. Slide you thumb off and hang on..."
if this is in sand it is not like the track. No tras-break when off pavemet, eh? U just dig a hole rather than doin a 'hole shot"?
 
didnt read past #52 as this Q kept preventing that.
"...I do like the sound of that , release the brake and hold on. Troy had a button on the steering wheel. Slide you thumb off and hang on..."
if this is in sand it is not like the track. No tras-break when off pavemet, eh? U just dig a hole rather than doin a 'hole shot"?
Watch some sand racing videos.
The tires are designed for sand and vehicles launch hard and do not sit long enough to dig holes.

The sand tracks use the same starting systems as the hard surface tracks.
The transbrake will give you the best reaction times as well as the most consistent starts.
 
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The more I think about it,yes first most consistent starts , second condition of the track,like is the sand damp like after a rain it will be more hard packed. Later in the day the sand will be airated and dryer meaning less bite , launch will depend on track condition . One thing I know for sure is my reflexes were hitting slower,the Transbrake button made me quicker on the pro light,on the Christmas tree you could cheat a little ,leaving on an earlier light.
 
Pmuller9 became the distributor is a main problem for 300-6 guy’s, I contacted my old sponsor and friend a lifelong racer and machanic about the possibility of going to a crank trigger system on my 300 , no problem, but we may need to use some Chevy parts including coil per cylinder . I will later like a roller cam sys. Thinking ahead to far maybe. I am getting more excited every day about this motor.
 
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Pmuller9 became the distributor is a main problem for 300-6 guy’s, I contacted my old sponsor and friend a lifelong racer and machanic about the possibility of going to a crank trigger system on my 300 , no problem, but we may need to use some Chevy parts including coil per cylinder . I will later like a roller cam sys. Thinking ahead to far maybe. I am getting more excited every day about this motor.
A distributor has 2 problems.
Phasing: The rotor needs to be pointing directly to the distributor cap contact when the cylinder pressure is at the highest point which will be around 20 degrees BTDC on a turbo engine.
You need to use the largest cap available to prevent crossover which would be the DS2 distributor but even with that, the caps don't last long under a high intensity ignition system.

The 1996 Ford 4.9 harmonic balancer has a trigger wheel mounted to the back on the hub.
You would replace that wheel with a 60-2 trigger wheel.
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You can use the 1987 to 1996 4.9 EFI distributor for the cam sync signal pulse by removing all but one of the vanes on the rotor and replacing the distributor cap with a round flat cover.

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If you use something like the Holley HP EFI system, Holley has everything you need including individual coils for a coil near ignition system.

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If you’re asking Red Rose about progress, my main man on removing distributor , had a double bypass 6 or7 weeks ago, will take some time to heal after first of the year I’d say . Thank s about that 96 harmonic balancer for trigger wheel, is there a specific 60-2 trigger wheel that could be used.
 
If you’re asking Red Rose about progress, my main man on removing distributor , had a double bypass 6 or7 weeks ago, will take some time to heal after first of the year I’d say . Thank s about that 96 harmonic balancer for trigger wheel, is there a specific 60-2 trigger wheel that could be used.
I can machine but don’t know how to line up to #1 cylinder.
Good to hear that the surgery went well and recovery is also doing well.

Holley EFI systems were having problems tracking the 60 tooth wheel at high rpm so they now recommend using the 36-1 wheel.
The Holley universal wheels are designed to have the center hole machined and the mounting holes drilled to fit the balancer, in this case the Ford 96 balancer hub.

First you figure out a good place to mount the pickup sensor.
Then the wheel needs to be installed so that when the crankshaft is at TDC, the sensor is pointing at the 7th tooth after the missing tooth gap (7 to the left of the gap)

SBC instructions as an example.

 
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If you use a SBF ATI balancer, Holley has wheels that will bolt to them directly.

What will you need to drive off the balancer with a belt?
 
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would that be a natural balance , sbf balancer to fit a bb 4.9 I6 Like a ATI that would be machined Already. Then the 36-1 wheel would be done. Would I then need to machine balancer at all to make it fit 4.9 engine
 
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would that be a natural balance , sbf balancer to fit a bb 4.9 I6 Like a ATI that would be machined Already. Then the 36-1 wheel would be done
Yes, you would use the SBF balancer that is neutral balanced.
The SBF balancer is about 1/4" longer.
It can be machined to the 300 balancer length or left as is and use a little longer crank bolt.
If you are not driving anything off the crank then pulley alignment wouldn’t be a concern either.

We recently did a rear wheel dyno run with and without the flex fan on Pullin 300s truck.
The fiber glass fan was wasting 10 lb ft of torque and 10 horsepower at the rear wheels.
Next year the radiator fan and water pump will be electric.
We will run a total loss system without an alternator using a 16 volt AGM battery.
 
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I ran a 1 wire alt. With a shutoff switch,in staging off , then end of track on. it freewheeled on track run. That was a manual switch for on-off. Worked for me.
 
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I ran a 1 wire alt. With a shutoff switch,in staging off , than end of track on. it freewheeled on track run.
That’s the problem with 12volt batteries. They won’t stay at the 14 volt level once they are no longer being charged.
A 16 volt AGM battery stays at 16 volts even with a heavy draw on it for most of its capacity.
We got 10 runs out of ours with a very heavy draw.
 
It was the older large GM alt. electric fan and water pump. Of a total of maybe 7 to 10 seconds off . Switched back on , charges back to restart another run or pits Some classes would give you 3min. Shutdown to cool down I would not shutdown, the hot start was a hard start up and drane on juice.
to restart electric charger, only takes a switch in alt. Like key on in vehicles or toggle switch for one wire
 
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