Twin turbo factory

I am interested on how the 16V battery works, do you have to change anything in 12V system to work properly with 16V . How about 12v fan or water pump or electrical control systems.computer
 
The normal 12 volt system operates at 14.2 volts so 16 is not much of an increase.
Most of the aftermarket electronic systems have at least an 18 volt rating.
The starter works better at 16 volts.
Fans an other 12V motor driven things also run well at 16 volts.
We never had a problem and neither do the many other racers using a 16 volt battery.

The only thing most electronic device manufacturers ask is to not have their devices on when the 16 volt battery is being charged.
 
sixtseventwo4d said:
I imagine the requirement to fully charge 16v battery would be a charger rated for 18v?
Click to expand...
16 volt AGM batteries use a charger that is both current and voltage regulated.
The charge current is regulated to keep the battery voltage at a set limit.
Over voltage will hurt an AGM battery.
I never took the time to see what the battery voltage was while charging but yes, it has to be above 16 volts.

In our race cars and hydroplane there was always a battery disconnect and we just made sure it was off before charging the battery.
You can get battery disconnects that switches between the on position and the charging position so you can't make a mistake.
 
Last edited:
When I ordered pro max head, I was told if I didn’t order valve spring’s and retainer’s there would be very little difference in price because they would have to charge per valve and not whole assembly .valve springs will handle.574 lift. I will order better springs later. Ordered 7/16 drill and taped studs for spring s. And 30* backcut valves
 
Last edited:
Pmuller9 Molnar has Ford 300 con Rods standard length for use with Turbo, supercharger,or large shot NOS. Would these work as good as the BBC Con Rods, I would not have to grind crank . then piston, Rod ass. Might be a little heavier, what is your thoughts on this assembly. FH6210AKPB-T6-H
 
The FH6210AKPB-T6-H have been working well for “Pullin 300” in truck pulling with rpm’s as high as 6500.
They will let you use the forged DSS pistons that are now available for the 300 six
 
Very impressive Pullin 300 motor is holding up well under very adverse pulling conditions especially with stock component’s like stock crank , over 6000 rpm’s at times.
 
He is having to up his game to stay ahead next season.
E85, 12:1 compression, roller cam, along with a few more changes.
 
Wow , I follow his progress often, I’m wondering if I shouldn’t also go with roller cam right away, hold off , one year good break ln, some Track time ,then go with turbo I guess it will depend how my finances hold up. I want it track running next year .
 
No, but I am a little apprehensive, trying to learn the in and outs of turbos, it’s coming slow for me . I’m still old school. I will make every effort to get a turbo on and running,it is what I really want to do. That’s were I want to be. I guess my thoughts are maybe I should not have the boost up to high to quick. Reading more and more about turbocharged motors , they need Dyno time to set up properly or they will probably fail. I will have to find a local dyno shop to set motor up.
 
Last edited:
Dyno time is important to get the fuel injection dialed in for best performance.
It is also important to get the ignition timing figured out.

It is easier to get both fuel and ignition optimized without boost first then at moderate steps with boost.
 
As far as roller cams, Pullin 300 started with a custom hydraulic flat tappet cam from Crower and it lost a single lobe.
Crower provided a second cam with the same specs that seems to be holding up.
It is an aggressive profile that gave some valve train instability beyond 5200 rpm which required another 20 lbs of spring pressure to correct.
It appears that the extra spring pressure is causing power to drop off at 5500 rpm due to possible lifter collapse.

A solid lifter roller cam should eliminate cam lobe failure and allow enough spring pressure for stable valve train without fear of lifter collapse.
A roller profile can offer more valve lift with more aggressive ramp rates for additional power.
 
I had mostly solid lifter cams, once locked down they needed very little adjustment. If easier setting up the engine before turbo is most logical, that’s what I will follow. Would you just take in engine or rolling chassis and engine to Dyno.
 
An engine dyno gives better back to back and clearer results than a chassis dyno for the small changes that need to be seen as small changes are made in the tune-up.

I’m not opposed to using a flat tappet solid lifter cam especially if the lifters have the EDM oiling hole in the lifter face.
There is a very long lead time to get a roller cam and the cost for a roller cam and lifters is very high in comparison.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top