Twin turbo factory
- Thread starter Red rose racer
- Start date
Red rose racer
Well-known member
3 gears ,most of 3gear, 4.56 rear end 35 inch tires, Coan toque converter only aloud slightly less than 100 rpm’s drop per shift, this was verified and checked by 90 sec. Readout tack. A very big investment at the time . C6 ford trans.
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Red rose racer
Well-known member
Would like to use same basic trans setup in new 300 may loose small amount of power ,but was very reliable.
You will be producing over twice the current engine torque with boost and will need a transmission that can handle over 600 lb ft of torque.
Is your transmission a stock Ford C6 or has it been modified for extra power?
What cam do you have in the engine presently?
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Red rose racer
Well-known member
It is modified, it handled 700 hp without a problem. I don’t have a cam with new 300 inline 6
Any chance Pullin 300 has a video of that pull?
Pretty sure a bunch of the members here would love to see that!
Pretty sure a bunch of the members here would love to see that!
No videos are available that I know of.
Red rose racer
Well-known member
That is awesome .that pull
Just wanted you to know about another fairly successful six versus V8 competition.
He has 2 more pulls this year.
He needs to try a faster gear combination to get the sled moving faster then maybe he can beat the guy with the 460.
We will add more engine torque over the winter for next year.
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Red rose racer
Well-known member
It is so nice to see the 300 inl.6 doing well, especially against the v8’s. That’s what I need to do planning
So I took the time to look through a lot of your old post.
I realize now that you have been running a big block V8 and that's the reason for the low stall torque converter.
I also understand that this will be your first 300 six.
I will do my best to describe how the turbo 300 six will respond and we can all work together to figure out how to make it work for you.
In order to have 500+ horsepower the 300 six will need to work between 3000 and 5500 rpm.
The camshaft profile needed to accomplish that will not pull hard or make significant boost until 3000 rpm.
It will also take at least 2 to 3 seconds to build a lot of boost once the engine is above 3000 rpm.
How much boost and how quickly you build boost while you sit at the starting line depends on how much rpm and throttle the engine has.
This makes it really difficult to run on a Pro Tree and is why I suggested a transbrake and bump box back in post #40 in order to have a killer 60 ft time.
The acceleration during the time the engine spends below 3000 rpm will be relatively slow.
What would you like to do?
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Red rose racer
Well-known member
You are 100% correct about my mental position right now. I have only raced BB fords so far. I’m planning for inl.6 racing. I have an industrial inl 6 very low hrs. My daughter sill hasn’t set up pay pal for me. Will order pro max head with undercut valves and 30deg. backcut. No springs, I would like the Beehive springs, Thy. Retainers. Next the BBC forged rods (6.385). So I can take to Mach.shop to grind crank , deck and bore for pistons, 16 to 20 cc cup. Pistons with floating pins. Will be turbo. Rest to come later, need basics done first.
Red rose racer
Well-known member
Oh thank you for your help much appreciated
You’re welcome.
We all want to see you compete very well against the V8s
Is this engine going into the 2014 F150 you mentioning at the beginning of this thread?
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Red rose racer
Well-known member
No, rather I planned to put it in my 49 Ford pick up,weight is near 3000 lbs. it’s my daily driver now so it will go in an early 70 Ranger pick up. I learned early, every lb. You shed from your truck,the less hp. You need to accomplish your goals .
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Red rose racer
Well-known member
I have 2 old ranger body’s but I have a 83 f150 complete with a 300-6. 4 speed manual no transfer case. 4 w dr. If you remember the 1980 to 82’s were very light . They were used for 4wd racing a lot in the 90’s. Forgot I had the truck till today, This may make things easier for me and cheaper.
Red rose racer
Well-known member
Pmuller9, just a thought, how about 2 smaller turbo’s and transbrake, wouldn’t the smaller turbo’s spool faster , instead of the bump brake thing.
Usually there can be as little as 4 tenths of a second from the last staging light to green on a Pro tree.
Thats not enough time for any turbo combination to build any significant boost.
You need the transbrake on before the last staging light to give you more time to build boost and some way to inch into the last staging light.
Why the hesitation to use a "Bump Box"?
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