300turbski
New member
Thanks. Ill keep that in mind.
Advice needed. 300 single turbo
- Thread starter 300turbski
- Start date
300turbski
New member
added.
hoping to get a parts truck for that stuff.
added.
ok. was just going to tell him as small as possible to make the bore round.
no.
parts truck.
updated.
| ARP main studs (ARP-152-5401) | 94 |
| ARP con rod bolt kit (ARP-152-6001) | 59 |
| Fel-Pro 1024 head gasket | 57 |
| turbo | 500 |
| Intercooler | 100 |
| charge piping | 200 |
| Injectors | 70 |
| cam | 250 |
| programming | 500 |
| AFPR | 40 |
| fuel pump | 61 |
| pistons (UEM-1186H-030) | 190 |
| machine work | 1000 |
| lifters | 150 |
| piston rings | 50 |
| Scorpion 1059 roller rockers | 331 |
| efi parts truck (or all parts from jy) | 750 |
| other | 500 |
5000 |
300turbski
New member
Would this be a good turbo?
Also I'm thinking this would be a good base? Not sure how long the trans would last
Also I'm thinking this would be a good base? Not sure how long the trans would last
Because you are looking at using a stock head, the turbocharger should have a compressor inducer in the 55 to 57 mm range.Would this be a good turbo?
The focus needs to be in the area where the stock head breaths best between 1500 and 3500 rpm.
The turbocharger you posted has a 62mm compressor wheel which is too big and will be a mismatch for your head and cam combination.
Here are some suggestions.
Dual Ceramic Ball Bearing Billet Wheel GT3076 0.82 A/R Turbo Charger
www.cxracing.com
Single Ball Bearing GT3076 0.82 A/R Turbo Charger T3 400 HP
www.cxracing.com
If you want the turbocharger to spool faster and have more power at the low end of the rpm range.
Single Ball Bearing GT3076 0.63 A/R Turbo Charger
www.cxracing.com
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300turbski
New member
Single Ball Bearing GT3076 0.82 A/R Turbo Charger 3" V-band
www.cxracing.com
Ceramic Dual Ball Bearing GT3082 0.63 A/R Turbo Charger 450HP
www.cxracing.com
Ceramic Ball Bearing GT35 GT3576R Turbo Charger 0.60 A/R Compressor
www.cxracing.com
I'm thinking one of these will work?
Any of those three will work.Single Ball Bearing GT3076 0.82 A/R Turbo Charger 3" V-band
Ceramic Dual Ball Bearing GT3082 0.63 A/R Turbo Charger 450HP
Ceramic Ball Bearing GT35 GT3576R Turbo Charger 0.60 A/R Compressor
I'm thinking one of these will work?
If you want the turbo to spool faster and make more low rpm power, then select one with the 0.63 A/R turbine housing.
If you want more power at the upper end of the power band and are willing to trade off a little turbo response at the low end, then select a turbo with the 0.82 A/R turbine housing.
PSIG
Well-known member
What would fit? That depends on your project goals. Please post that list up, as we could design a perfect combo but for the wrong results. That can quickly become a waste of time and money. However, it can also be a springboard, but in that case go easy the first round.
The 54s could work, but are oversize, and capable of around 500hp at that rating. Yikes. Realistically, you're not getting there, and parts are like shoes - you can run best with the size that fits. Even at a lower pressure, they're still too big. Those injectors would flow about 45 lb·hr at 40 psi. Given your desire to use low-octane fuel, I am thinking you will not use the capacity of those injectors, and so they will be a liability for control at lower loads and speeds. Everything is a compromise, and there are workarounds, but if you compromise too often it will bite you.
Unless planning a method to suppress detonation, you won't get that much out of the turbo setup. The stock head is an ancient design, and not particularly suited for high effective compression. If not higher octane like E85, then perhaps a water injection setup. In any case, unless you control your det, you won't be needing injectors that large. A good range (assuming a lot with no goals), would be 34-40 lb·hr for 350-400 hp on gasoline, for more than double the max factory horsepower and torque ratings. Other opinions with more info.
Depends on your data system. While it can't do everything, MegaLogViewer can read many types of log files, and better, it can do analysis on them. Scatter plots, histograms, and of course data traces to see how each parameter plays into the results. Even little things like overlaying of two runs, to compare where each was better, is a big deal to tune better and quicker. That's very important with a power adder setup for power potential, but especially reliability.
Coil packs, coil-on-plug and similar stuff are options, if you will be adding a crankshaft wheel and sensor. So if considering that direction, start searching for options to get that trigger wheel and sensor on your crank or damper. There are other options to get there with some systems, but the crank wheel is most common, and the majority of systems can use it.
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Too expound on this a little bit, a very common aftermarket coil to use in performance applications with individual coil packs is an IGN1A coil - I got mine through DIY Auto tune. If you go this route, you'd need a ECU that can run it which is where the MS3X comes in - You need the expansion board if you want individual coil control.
PSIG
Well-known member
Yeah, for this application some common coil packs or coil-near-plug are fine. Some like the CNP-style LS coils along the valve cover or side cover, others like 2x3 or 6-pack coil packs on the side or even on the fender apron or firewall. A zillion choices for what you think plays well with your vision or special requirements. Go to your favorite site or search engine and enter "V6 coil pack" for ideas. Part of the problem with suggestions is that there are so many choices for coils.
Random example of the popular GM D599A "smart" coil pack:
*"Smart" or active coil packs have internal power transistors (drivers), so external ignition modules are not required. Passive or "dumb"coils (like your old stock coil) require a driver, either in the ECM or external. No big deal, but another thing to put in the system. TL;DR - a smart coil is a dumb coil with a driver built-in. A passive 6-cyl pack will typically have 4 pins, while an active coil like the D599A will have 5 or more.
The IGN1A was originally a marine application, is a huge coil designed for long dwell, but can certainly work for most anything at lower power and directly controllable by most any aftermarket ECM from the sub-$100 EFI ECMs to crazy expensive ones. Considered overkill for most things, but certainly capable of firing most anything. Do your thing.
Random example of the popular GM D599A "smart" coil pack:
*"Smart" or active coil packs have internal power transistors (drivers), so external ignition modules are not required. Passive or "dumb"coils (like your old stock coil) require a driver, either in the ECM or external. No big deal, but another thing to put in the system. TL;DR - a smart coil is a dumb coil with a driver built-in. A passive 6-cyl pack will typically have 4 pins, while an active coil like the D599A will have 5 or more.
The IGN1A was originally a marine application, is a huge coil designed for long dwell, but can certainly work for most anything at lower power and directly controllable by most any aftermarket ECM from the sub-$100 EFI ECMs to crazy expensive ones. Considered overkill for most things, but certainly capable of firing most anything. Do your thing.