Twin turbo factory

Red rose racer

Well-known member
Twin turbo question. I sand raced ,300 feet, A 2014 f150 350cu. V6 factory I believe twin turbo man did it run well would that turbo system work well on modified new head online 6 300
 
That should be 3.5L, 213ci. The turbos are pretty small, and have awkward angles and shapes on the turbine flanges. I'd look elsewhere, if for anything but a low rev, modest output trail/tow rig.
 
Thank you neighbor, I’m pinconning. I was susposed to write 3.5 cc. That was at Rhodes Raceway Mi. This spring. I have been thinking small twinturbos would be better for 300 ft. Sand racing but l’m not that knowable about turbo s
 
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500+. I’m ready to order pro max head but not sure 1.94 intake or 2.02. 2.02 are said to get more at low end out of hole
There was improvement in the flow at low valve lifts with the 2.02” but that was on a 76cc chamber carb head.
Don’t have any info with the 2.02” in the Promaxx head.
The 2.02” gets close to the spark plugs ground strap so it would be good to index the plugs.
 
Am thinking efi , they can control fuel not yet sure, have heard complaints about holly systems. The 600 Hp at 5500 to 6000 RPMs would be perfect how about 1.94 in values undercut for a little more flow
 
Am thinking efi , they can control fuel not yet sure, have heard complaints about holly systems. The 600 Hp at 5500 to 6000 RPMs would be perfect how about 1.94 in values undercut for a little more flow
I haven't heard a lot of complaints about the Holley Terminator or the Holley HP port injected EFI systems.

I'm not at home to double check but I believe the 1.94"/1.60" valves that come with the Promaxx head are undercut on the stem but not backcut on the valve head.
The backcut is also important.
I would stay with the 1.94" intake valve.

Are you planning on using a roller cam or flat tappet?
 
Newcomer’s Jeep six is a well designed build.
What would you use for a turbo exhaust manifold?
 
For a proper engine build what would your 1 , 2 3. Progression be , each has an effect on the other components. I should do the block, rod, pistons first. When I was younger I did the cheapest first, took A long time to be competitive.
 
At the beginning the focus is on the parameters you need to order pistons.

The cylinder head combustion chamber volumes are needed to determine the piston dish volume to get the correct static compression ratio. You need the physical head with valves to measure all six chamber volumes yourself rather than relying on what you are being told they are.

Next is the block’s finished cylinder bore diameter and deck height to get the piston diameter and wrist pin height.
That means the block goes to the machine shop for machining and to make sure the block is usable.

Next you decide on which connecting rods to use and get them in your hands.

Then you can finally order pistons.

Once you decide on the camshaft and have it in your hands, that will determine the valve springs so you can finish the head.
 
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The BBC forged 6.385 and grind crank the small amount. Seems to be several companies make these. Molner. Eagle scat. I have an industrial 300 with 700 hrs. On it run s good now . Did not tear down yet.
 
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