Pro charger mount

[Pmelsness90]

Been able to get back on my pro charged build, got the mount built an ready to be welded up, got my serpintine setup figured out for my alt. and water pump, got the valve cover spacer built as well, I did keep all my patterns and part numbers for everything except the alternator bracket.

 

[bubba22349]

Congrats that's a real work of art and functional packaging!

 

[powerband]

impressive setup, a few details more and ...


( nice VC spacer-why did it need it? )

have fun

250 / Vortech

. .

 

[pmuller9]

Looks Great! nice work.
What did you end up doing for the harmonic balancer and pulley?

 

[Pmelsness90]

The picture everything is on is a stock spare motor i have im using for mock up, the spacer is to clear the roller rockers, as far as a balancer goes im very much undecided on whether to use set screws in this stock balancer to hold it together or spend the money on a ATI super damper, im waiting for the crank pulley from ATI to build the mounting block from the balancer to the pulley. The water pump pulley i got from cvf racing it had to spaced out just shy of an inch to line up correctly.

 

[pmuller9]

What have you decided on for rods and pistons?

 

[Pmelsness90]

I'm thinking im going to end up using a callies BBC rod, my machinest is thinking a stock rod will be sufficient and he wasnt liking the big end width on the bbc rods said .990 compared to .994 is more than he likes to see, as far as pistons im going to have race Tec build a set ive had good luck with them

 

[Pmelsness90]

Im also wanting to use a hydraulic roller cam but finding a cam grinder with a billet core seems to be like finding a needle in a hay stack, ive got a few more outfits to call before i give up on that but if a flat tappet cam is what i gotta go with I'll be using crower

 

[pmuller9]

A few extra thousands side clearance on the connecting rods big end is fine.
I wouldn't trust stock rods under heavy supercharging which doesn't leave you any margin if you want to turn up the boost later.
Superchargers are much harder on rods than turbocharging.

Talk to John Partridge at Bullet Cams.
They make billet cam cores and will grind you roller cam.

 

[Pmelsness90]

I'll probably end up going with a aftermarket rod since I'll be assembling it, i called bullet cams this morning and they said they were out of cores for the 300, so I called howards and crower both gave me pretty similar specs for a cam, still waiting to hear back from oregon cam grinders before i make decision on that.

 

[pmuller9]

What were the cam specs from Howard and Crower?

 

[Pmelsness90]

Crower said what they would recommend for a custom grinds falls really close to there stage 4 hot street cam part number 19213, .450 .460 lift 210 at .050 112 LSA.
Howards was pretty similar with .470 .4.95 lift durration was 213 at .050 with 112 LSA and 108 lobe center line, i left my howards info at my shop I'll confirm those numbers tomorrow.

 

[pmuller9]

A Procharger probably won't make boost till 2000 rpm and the boost will increase linearly with rpm from there until you stop the engine at some rpm limit.

The cam profiles Crower and Howard recommended will focus on low rpm power below boost and at low boost levels and will cause the engine volumetric efficiency (VE) to fall off early leaving the supercharger to compensate at the upper rpm range.
You get a wide powerband but low peak power.

The second scenario is where you select a cam profile to move the peak torque higher into the boost range where the engine's VE is high at higher boost levels to make a lot more midrange to upper rpm power.
That's why I recommended an .050" duration closer to 230 degrees.
From my experience a 230 duration profile makes peak torque at 3600 rpm and peak power at 5500 rpm using a big valve ported head.
Also the 300 six head has deep combustion chambers so it really responds well to valve lift where the valve head is out of the chamber (.350") so you really want valve lift above .500" and closer to .550" if possible where it spends a lot of time above .350"

Not for you but for race only you go really big on the cam so the peak torque (VE) is closer to the peak rpm and boost of the Procharger for maximum horsepower.

Another problem when using a small duration cam with supercharging is you have to keep the compression ratio really low with soup bowl dishes in the piston to prevent detonation along with excessive ignition timing retard.

The BBC rods and forged pistons will let you spin the engine to 6000 rpm with plenty of margin.

 

[pmuller9]

I forgot that you have a ProCharger p-1sc-1 rated at 825 HP which is big for a 300 six.
If you don't maintain a high engine volumetric efficiency in the upper rpm region, the compressor will end up in the surge zone.
You need to have enough engine airflow at upper rpms to keep the compressor operating in the efficiency area on the map.
The small cams kill the VE at higher rpm.

I would recommend a 232/236 .050" duration on a 112 LSA

 

[Pmelsness90]

Isky cams recomended near exact specs that you recommend and said that recommendation is on the conservative side for a blower application, the guy at isky sounded like he was the most familiar with 6 cylinders out of every cam out fit that ive spoke with so far.

 

[pmuller9]

Isky cams recomended near exact specs that you recommend and said that recommendation is on the conservative side for a blower application, the guy at isky sounded like he was the most familiar with 6 cylinders out of every cam out fit that ive spoke with so far.

They are exactly correct.
If you don't mind a rough idle and reduced fuel mileage going to a 240 degree intake duration would be good.
The only consideration there is the increased valve spring pressure and you would be better off with a solid lifter cam to insure high rpm valve train stability.
Once you go to a solid you can use a 1.75 ratio Harland Sharp roller rocker for additional lift.
You should also look at moving up to a 3/8" pushrod.

This is the reason why I kept a conservative profile unless you don't have a problem with a solid lifter cam and bigger pushrods.

Is this a daily driver or a low mileage hot rod?

 

[Pmelsness90]

I dont mind rough idle, fuel milage isnt going to be a big concern it'll be a weekend cruiser, id rather not deal with solid lifter setup since the overall finish of it will be more show quality and adjusting valves isntvwhat i want to be doing on a regular basis, i already have harland sharp 1.6 rockers, i think unless i bend 5/16 push rods I'll try them first since its a 240 head with slots and the machine work on the head is already done.

 

[pmuller9]

Then stay with a hydraulic cam in the mid 230 duration range.
Sounds like Isky is the best choice so far.

The best pushrod is the Manton Series 4, 5/16" x .118" wall

What is the combustion chamber volume in your 240 head?

Is the stock spring locator at the valve spring seat (shown below) machined away for double valve springs?
https://cometcentral.com/photos/images/ ... 9cc181.jpg

 

[Pmelsness90]

Yeah im feeling good about isky, i was wondering about push rods I was thinking id give smith brothers push rods a try theyre close to me figure support a local buisness in these times is a good Samaritan move, i dont know the answer to the double valve springs, there was no mention of it, my machinest said once a cam is figured out he would build the head accordingly, no answer for the combustion chamber volume either at this time.

 

[pmuller9]

Since you just got your Isky cam would you mind posting the cam's spec sheet or card.
Thanks