Mr. Highlander
New member
I am putting it right side up. The filter is facing up. I also noted the shape of mounting surface as well.
I will try the FL299 next time then. I kind of have faith in Motorcraft.
200ci I put a 200CID engine in my '73 Mercury Marquis
- Thread starter Mr. Highlander
- Start date
This applies only to 200ci
I will try the FL299 next time then. I kind of have faith in Motorcraft.
I can vouch for that.
Did a filter study on the FL-299 not too long ago.
Here is a link on filter studies:
The write up about the FL-299 starts at post #54.
Mr. Highlander,
The newer Motorcraft FL-1A filters have been cheapened considerably. It’s a huge disappointment that Motorcraft decided to cut quality on certain filters. I cannot recommend the FL-1A filter to anyone. The good thing about the FL-299 is, it has not been cheapened. This could be that it’s used on industrial and agricultural equipment.
When you have a chance, read through the whole study. It might surprise you what some filter manufacturers have done.
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“...I kind of have faith in Motorcraft..."
AND that’s how ‘they get U’. These co.s change hands yrly it seems. B careful.
My trouble is I cant tell when/B4... they change manufacturers/owners. ‘Retail' is just a spray onto the 5 or 6 world wide co.'s cover now (Bosch, Malhe, Mann & H..., Donnaldson, Denso, Cummins). Just like batteries (3 flooded, 4 AGM) Johnson Controls, East Penn, China, etc...
I say pick by manufacturer, name brand may change but... how to keep up w/a changing field? I go Johnson Controlls (Diehard now owned by Advance retailer or Interstate a single company & private).
Here’s ur FL299:
AND that’s how ‘they get U’. These co.s change hands yrly it seems. B careful.
My trouble is I cant tell when/B4... they change manufacturers/owners. ‘Retail' is just a spray onto the 5 or 6 world wide co.'s cover now (Bosch, Malhe, Mann & H..., Donnaldson, Denso, Cummins). Just like batteries (3 flooded, 4 AGM) Johnson Controls, East Penn, China, etc...
I say pick by manufacturer, name brand may change but... how to keep up w/a changing field? I go Johnson Controlls (Diehard now owned by Advance retailer or Interstate a single company & private).
Here’s ur FL299:
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The only safe way to tell if filters changed is by cutting the filters open.
The Motorcraft FL-299 filter may very well be made by Purolator. But I’ve learned not to assume that what we read or hear is true.
The recent Motorcraft FL-299 filters could be coming from a huge surplus somewhere in warehouse. One way to find out is the date code on the filter. And I might look into that.
We do not know what will become of them. I do know that they are used on industrial equipment. Maybe that is what’s saving the filter from being cheapened.
Champion Labs and Luber Finer make some of the best industrial filters for Marine, Locomotives, Earthmoving equipment… But they also make some of the worst filters on the market. It all comes down to what an engine manufacturer, or filter company like Fram is willing to pay for a filter. Money is the deciding factor how filters are built.
Back to the Motorcraft FL-299. As of right now it is a good filter. When purchasing one. It’s easy to tell if the bypass is built in the filter base.
There is a reason why I started the filter study. To pass off information on what’s happening with filters. The FL-1A in my opinion, at one time was a very good filter. Unfortunately this is not the case since the latest generation came out.
Another thing that filter companies are pushing is filter ratings. They claim how good their filters media filters down to lower microns. There is a balance. If the filter media is too fine, the filter might be in bypass every time a cold engine is started.
The problem I see is most of today’s filters have the bypass built in the filter end cap. So, when the engine is cold and oil has thickened, the oil has no choice but to bypass. And Filters with a bypass on the filter cap end is the worst place to have a bypass because the bypassed oil could pick up grime from the filter pleats and pump the grime in the engine oil galleries. And we all know what’s next.
Motorcraft had the right idea when the bypass was in the filter base. A matter of fact, that was a huge selling point for years. That was until just recently when they decided to cheapen the FL-1A.
The filter study on this form is here to help choose a good filter that will protect our investment.
I do not listen to filter manufacturer claims unless they can give test information like Ford did on their racing filters. All information from filter manufacturers claiming that they are the best are in most part just blowing hot air unless they can prove otherwise like Ford did in their testing.
We are very fortunate to get the test information from Ford. This information is not available to the public. I got this information by writing directly to Ford about concerns, and in turn they sent me the information of the tests. It could be that I reached a person that saw my need and wanted to help.
If you’re unsure of a certain filter go to the Filter Study. There is a lot there.
The Motorcraft FL-299 filter may very well be made by Purolator. But I’ve learned not to assume that what we read or hear is true.
The recent Motorcraft FL-299 filters could be coming from a huge surplus somewhere in warehouse. One way to find out is the date code on the filter. And I might look into that.
We do not know what will become of them. I do know that they are used on industrial equipment. Maybe that is what’s saving the filter from being cheapened.
Champion Labs and Luber Finer make some of the best industrial filters for Marine, Locomotives, Earthmoving equipment… But they also make some of the worst filters on the market. It all comes down to what an engine manufacturer, or filter company like Fram is willing to pay for a filter. Money is the deciding factor how filters are built.
Back to the Motorcraft FL-299. As of right now it is a good filter. When purchasing one. It’s easy to tell if the bypass is built in the filter base.
There is a reason why I started the filter study. To pass off information on what’s happening with filters. The FL-1A in my opinion, at one time was a very good filter. Unfortunately this is not the case since the latest generation came out.
Another thing that filter companies are pushing is filter ratings. They claim how good their filters media filters down to lower microns. There is a balance. If the filter media is too fine, the filter might be in bypass every time a cold engine is started.
The problem I see is most of today’s filters have the bypass built in the filter end cap. So, when the engine is cold and oil has thickened, the oil has no choice but to bypass. And Filters with a bypass on the filter cap end is the worst place to have a bypass because the bypassed oil could pick up grime from the filter pleats and pump the grime in the engine oil galleries. And we all know what’s next.
Motorcraft had the right idea when the bypass was in the filter base. A matter of fact, that was a huge selling point for years. That was until just recently when they decided to cheapen the FL-1A.
The filter study on this form is here to help choose a good filter that will protect our investment.
I do not listen to filter manufacturer claims unless they can give test information like Ford did on their racing filters. All information from filter manufacturers claiming that they are the best are in most part just blowing hot air unless they can prove otherwise like Ford did in their testing.
We are very fortunate to get the test information from Ford. This information is not available to the public. I got this information by writing directly to Ford about concerns, and in turn they sent me the information of the tests. It could be that I reached a person that saw my need and wanted to help.
If you’re unsure of a certain filter go to the Filter Study. There is a lot there.
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The manufacturer date of the Motorcraft FL-299 that was cut open in the study appears to be 12/19/22.
The recent revision of the Motorcraft FL-1A filter that was cut open in the study appears to have a manufacture date of 09/29/22.
What this information is possibly telling us is, the manufacturing of the FL-299 has not changed. At least, not at that time. Hopefully whoever is building them will not change the manufacturing process of the filter.
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“...But they also make some of the worst filters on the market..."
like car companies or watch manufts they have lesser (good/better/best) models. Sometimes based on price.
It’s all a crap shoot untill U find the best for you and catch up when they go to nother company. Like I said, I’m
all ways runnin behind as they consolidate. I just go to BITOG’n ask where things are now~
like car companies or watch manufts they have lesser (good/better/best) models. Sometimes based on price.
It’s all a crap shoot untill U find the best for you and catch up when they go to nother company. Like I said, I’m
all ways runnin behind as they consolidate. I just go to BITOG’n ask where things are now~
Chad is referring about the “Bob Is The Oil Guy Forum”.
The Bob Is The Oil Guy forum, in most parts, is a good resource. I visit it quite regularly. But it’s like any other forum. The information is only good when read and proofed by others, and then time is spent to update and correct the content along the way. Bob Is The Oil Guy forum is not the “Gold Standard”. It’s pretty much people posting information as best as they can.
There is good information posted on Bob Is The Oil Guy forum. But, it’s still everyone’s responsibility to work information to see if it’s correct.
The Bob Is The Oil Guy forum, in most parts, is a good resource. I visit it quite regularly. But it’s like any other forum. The information is only good when read and proofed by others, and then time is spent to update and correct the content along the way. Bob Is The Oil Guy forum is not the “Gold Standard”. It’s pretty much people posting information as best as they can.
There is good information posted on Bob Is The Oil Guy forum. But, it’s still everyone’s responsibility to work information to see if it’s correct.
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thnx 4 translating/discphering to the masses my jiberesh, “63”.
BITOG & ur explanation reminds me of
WIKIPEDIA, both pretty hi on the level of trust-ability.
-Caveat Emptor-
for filters? "dont believe what you think” for ever. Due diligence, then purchase,
check in periodically - As the World Turns. This = best practices
Air’n other filters? May B:
BITOG & ur explanation reminds me of
WIKIPEDIA, both pretty hi on the level of trust-ability.
-Caveat Emptor-
for filters? "dont believe what you think” for ever. Due diligence, then purchase,
check in periodically - As the World Turns. This = best practices
Air’n other filters? May B:
Automotive Filters Market Size, Share, Forecast, Report, 2030
The global automotive filters market is projected to grow from USD 12.9 billion in 2024 to USD 14.6 billion by 2030, at a CAGR of 2.1% during the forecast period.
www.marketsandmarkets.com
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Mr. Highlander
New member
Good snowy morning. Car has been running great. Did a transmission fluid change and band adjustment around 148,500, an oil change at 150,000 (Been going with the FL299 for some time), and now I am at 150,700. As I said earlier, this car has a veracious appetite for Fuel Pumps. After I did my oil change, the engine started leaking oil, off of the cross member. The fuel pump is over the cross member, while the rear main seal is further back. So it couldn’t be the rear main seal. So I thought I would just replace the fuel pump for grins. It stopped! The replacement pump was the Carter. Less than 30 miles, and the car sputtered and died up a hill. I put it in neutral and rolled down the hill into a church parking lot and put a Delphi on it. Still going after a few days but I am not holding my breath. I am going to put an electric fuel pump on it. I have the circuit drawn out for it. We have a foot of snow out right now, so I can’t work on it right now. Plus waiting for a part in the mail. Going to do what the box recommends and put it near the tank. Running the wire will be a pain. I will need at least 15ft! 
An addendum to the schematic, there is a diode between the starter relay “I” terminal and the main pump relay coil. And the voltage for the low power pump relay comes from the field coil, not stator. I mislabeled that point. The fuse for the pump is TBD.
An addendum to the schematic, there is a diode between the starter relay “I” terminal and the main pump relay coil. And the voltage for the low power pump relay comes from the field coil, not stator. I mislabeled that point. The fuse for the pump is TBD.
Mr. Highlander
New member
Pumps look good. The one that leaked oil still worked. It was just…oily. The Carter that failed, the arm had almost no tension compared to a good one. The arm is painted black, and the area where the cam pushes was wiped clean of the paint, but otherwise there was no signs of brute force, gouging, etc. just normal wear. I returned all the pumps to get new ones so I have no photos sadly. Really an electric fuel pump will have less headache. The tank should be fine, I had run the 429 on the stock fuel pump with no issues. And the filter always came out clean. Car has been driven over 40k miles since put back into service of October ‘22.
Fuel tank sounds good. One thing I do with electric pumps is route an override off switch to the dash. Helps with hot-soak starts, which may not be an issue in Denver, but is here in summer. Cutting the pump before the engine, eliminating the pressure. How long to cut the pump before engine is relative to the heat- after pulling a heavy trailer, if I've got to crank up again in 10-15 minutes, I'll run the bowl down till engine stumbles about to stall and cut off. Then refire with the pump still off, then turn it on. Fires right up without long cranking from vapor-flooding.
What brand of pump are you using?
Mr. Highlander
New member
I am using a CarQuest one. Here is the link from Advanced Auto:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-premium-fuel-pump-u2542558-u2542558/11762506
Seems to be a good brand. Never had any issues. Ohhhh heat soak is quite the problem. My car has a funny issue when you first start it it up, it sounds like it idles fine. But as soon as you put it into gear, it dies. (Makes parking lots interesting if above 60) If I give it a couple quick revs it gets rid of its congestion. And that’s after coming out from the store in 5 minutes. Longer and you’re cranking for a while. So the idea you have there is a good one.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-premium-fuel-pump-u2542558-u2542558/11762506
Seems to be a good brand. Never had any issues. Ohhhh heat soak is quite the problem. My car has a funny issue when you first start it it up, it sounds like it idles fine. But as soon as you put it into gear, it dies. (Makes parking lots interesting if above 60) If I give it a couple quick revs it gets rid of its congestion. And that’s after coming out from the store in 5 minutes. Longer and you’re cranking for a while. So the idea you have there is a good one.
It takes less heat for the fuel to vaporize and boil at your altitude, I forgot that factor. Counting humidity our summer temps are over 100* daily here. My '70's era Holley 4V carb is less prone to hot flooding and post-start up vapor lock than any carb I've had (except Quadrajet), but none are immune in this climate after a hard drive. Manipulating the fuel pressure/ bowl level helps eliminate the issue 95% of the time.
There's two separate and, ironically, opposite issues at play with carbs during and after hot soak, one is a flooding condition, the other a lean condition.
While the engine is off, it gets flooded from two sources. One is vapor. Gas boils at 155*, the hot fuel in the bowl is evaporating hard, and the expanding heavy vapor spills out the vent and down into the low part of the intake. If the fuel is hot enough it will boil off, sending all the vapor into the intake and creating a long cranking period to clear a flooded condition. If pressure is still present at the needle, more boiling-hot fuel is admitted to the bowl, accentuating the flooded condition. With many mechanical pumps the pressure in the gas line spikes as it sits stagnant next to the hot engine, and this too adds to flooding the engine, the excessive pressure overcoming the needle. The last generation of carbs combatted the vapor flood with the external bowl vent which was open to the atmosphere when the throttle is closed. Since the top of the bowl is lower than the internal vent in the throttle bore, the vapor would escape via the bowl, and avoid flooding the engine. But that did not stop the excessive line pressure flooding.
The stumbling and stalling which occurs after starting a hot-soaked engine is a lean problem, and this is vapor-lock. Once the engine is refired (in embarrassment in the parking lot, a 10 second cranking period followed by a cloud of black smoke), it often runs rough or stalls for the first few seconds or longer. It's lean- as the very hot fuel in the gas line is released into the bowl the sudden return to atmospheric pressure will cause it to flash into vapor which can not be properly metered. There is little liquid fuel in the bowl, and an attempt to accelerate causes a bog or stall from lack of fuel. The reason racing the engine hard a couple of times clears it up is, the demand draws enough fuel thru the line to cool it off to below the boiling flash point, and vapor lock stops.
Often the flooded pre-start condition is called "vapor lock", but this is not correct.
Thus the electric fuel pump has two distinct advantages during hot-soak: 1) gas pressure can be eliminated, and if necessary the liquid fuel level in the bowl reduced before shut off. 2) The pump and gas line are not attached to the hot engine, fuel in the line stays below flash-point, and vapor lock is avoided.
Yes chad, they were pretty effective at reducing the vapor buildup in the intake. Also, the Rochester 2G used on literally millions of GM V8's had a hole at the base of the carb from the throttle bore to the atmosphere, and a base gasket with a slot in it to direct the vapor out of the carb. One in each barrel. Don't remember the era this was used, but it was on some of them. Guys would be wondering what the heck an unfiltered air bleed hole was doing there.
DON
Well-known member
welcome!
Nice project and ride!! Fun to drive, no, make that “herd” down the road
My thoughts: I don’t think it’s too much car for the engine, torque works
I would worry more about the transmission. Maybe get a temp gauge so you can keep an eye on it.
Back when I was on my way to college, my 67 with a 289, 2 bbl. I had put a hitch on it and was pulling a small trailer with my dirt bike in it, along with stuff for college,( tool box, popcorn maker, microwave and stereo). I remember saying to myself, this is towing pretty good, a little while later I started seeing white smoke coming out the back, pushing oil out the f the Tranny. Probably not st got a little too hot
. Of sure the gross weight difference, but you are running a lot heavier than a mustang
Just a thought….
Nice project and ride!! Fun to drive, no, make that “herd” down the road
My thoughts: I don’t think it’s too much car for the engine, torque works
I would worry more about the transmission. Maybe get a temp gauge so you can keep an eye on it.
Back when I was on my way to college, my 67 with a 289, 2 bbl. I had put a hitch on it and was pulling a small trailer with my dirt bike in it, along with stuff for college,( tool box, popcorn maker, microwave and stereo). I remember saying to myself, this is towing pretty good, a little while later I started seeing white smoke coming out the back, pushing oil out the f the Tranny. Probably not st got a little too hot
. Of sure the gross weight difference, but you are running a lot heavier than a mustang Just a thought….
Mr. Highlander
New member
Thanks for the compliments.welcome!
Nice project and ride!! Fun to drive, no, make that “herd” down the road
My thoughts: I don’t think it’s too much car for the engine, torque works
I would worry more about the transmission. Maybe get a temp gauge so you can keep an eye on it.
Back when I was on my way to college, my 67 with a 289, 2 bbl. I had put a hitch on it and was pulling a small trailer with my dirt bike in it, along with stuff for college,( tool box, popcorn maker, microwave and stereo). I remember saying to myself, this is towing pretty good, a little while later I started seeing white smoke coming out the back, pushing oil out the f the Tranny. Probably not st got a little too hot
Just a thought….
Thats a good thought…I am making it a point to change my transmission fluid every 20K. Also, I kept the 429/C6 transmission radiator. So an extra big radiator for the engine=more cooling. There is a cooler for the transmission fluid, built in, as well. And the lines are pretty long from the transmission to the cooler (longer than they need to be lol). Ford Taxis (Ford Custom) had C4s with a 240 six (In the case of the Torino Taxis, a 250 six) in front. Those weigh pretty similar to my car, so I think the tranny should be O.K. Thoughts?