All Small Six New member! Some questions about 200ci

This relates to all small sixes
Hey Guardian, I read the entire thread just now.
Sounds like you just wanna get the mustang on the road for the family - not spend your time working on an engine. Buy the other engine. Bubba's (always) right. See if you can talk the seller down because 1) something went wrong with the bottom end?? and it's fixed?? ok. 2) it's been overhauled - only.

If you want to get on the road quick, you could just buy and bolt on a Argentina n1904 carb - no SCV - from Mike's Carburetors
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/carburetor-n1904.html

...and match it to a DUI HEI distributor
https://performancedistributors.com/product/ford-dui-street-strip-v8-221-289-302-cid/ (it's not for a v8

Of course it sounds like you can rebuild the 1100 easily enough. So that's the cheapest way to go.
Good luck
 
gb500 said:
There is also a way to convert a scv loadomatic 1100 carb to non scv /loadomatic carb -ie a normal one with ported vacuum.

Need 3 set screws/grub screw to strategically block a few drillings.

Is a post in here some where. Search 'drop a loadomatic'
Click to expand...
The Loadmatic carb uses maniford and venturi vacuum for a vacuum advance. It has no ported vacuum port.
The Drop a Loadomatic article is wrong but can be overcome with JB Weld and a small drill bit.
 
Dr_Dan_WWW said:
Hey Guardian, I read the entire thread just now. Sounds like you just wanna get the mustang on the road for the family - not spend your time working on an engine. Buy the other engine. Bubba's (always) right. See if you can talk the seller down because 1) something went wrong with the bottom end?? and it's fixed?? ok. 2) it's been overhauled - only. If you want to get on the road quick, you could just buy and bolt on a Argentina n1904 carb - no SCV - from Mike's Carburetors https://www.carburetor-parts.com/carburetor-n1904.html ...and match it to a DUI HEI distributor https://performancedistributors.com/product/ford-dui-street-strip-v8-221-289-302-cid/ (it's not for a v8 Of course it sounds like you can rebuild the 1100 easily enough. So that's the cheapest way to go. Good luck
Click to expand...
I already have an electronic ignition and whatever kind of modern distributor in it, looks like almost like a GM dizzy. So I was gonna reuse it. I was gonna rebuild the Autolite 1100 he’s giving me with it to replace my China carb, and run the vacuum lines like it’s ran now, and plug the SCV port so it’s not used. I also wanted to go back with a auto choke, and I just got email champion carb cancelled my electric choke conversion order so I think ima just get a choke stove to put on my headers for now lol.

I think I’m also gonna pull the oil pan on it when I get it home, since it’s been a few months since it’s been assembled and make sure each cam lobe has lube, and since it’s at #1 TDC I can check that and go ahead and install my distributor correctly and fuel pump. I’ll put my new pan on it just cause, and go from there!
 
78_200_C4 said:
The Loadmatic carb uses maniford and venturi vacuum for a vacuum advance. It has no ported vacuum port. The Drop a Loadomatic article is wrong but can be overcome with JB Weld and a small drill bit.
Click to expand...


Got any more details/ info?
 
gb500 said:
Got any more details/ info?
Click to expand...
"The "Load-O-Matic" distributor uses manifold vacuum to compensate for load, venturi vacuum to compensate for speed, and/or a combination of both, which is supplied by the Spark Control Valve."
If you follow the "Drop a Load" article you will end up with manifold vacuum only unless the throttle butterfly is almost completely closed at a very slow idle.
I converted 2 carbs according to the "Drop a Load" article. One was a Holley the the other was an Autolite 1100.
I had to plug the vacuum port hole in the throttle bore on both carbs with JB Weld. I then took a small drill bit the size of the vacuum port hole and drilled into the internal passage above the original vacuum port hole to get ported vacuum. This way there was no vacuum advance at idle.
After a lot of reading I now use manifold vacuum to operate my vacuum advance.

I have ran 3 cars with no vacuum advance. One was a 292 Y-block with a Mallory duel point. One was a 302 with a Mallory. The other was 390 with a Ford dual point dist. A centrifugal only distributor should perform better than a Load-O-Matic so even with the vacuum unit disconnected a newer non-LOM dist should perform better than an LOM distributor.
 
Last edited:
2 engines R beddah den 1.
8^ )
EDIT:
further reading onto page 5:
NO dui dizzy. Most here do not like.
Go DSII all the way, or if not, ford 'blue strain
relief' module - a GM 4 pin (latter schematics on
go fast for less dot com). That and a nice 2v R a big
change. Wrk a new "late model head" & ur @ stage 2.
(to me). Stage 3 is a road and track car (again 2 me easily
done). https://fordsix.com/ci/BuildaSix.html C summary @ end.
U got 'the Handbook' need tech archive too.
 
Last edited:
A road and track log head 200 ci Ford six.
I want to see that.

'Here ya go - Small Block Ford 200 powered Philson Falcon:

.

img-9382.jpg



philson falcon - Google Search

www.google.com
 
Philson Falcon pics' are from recent Alum. head installation. The Philson Falcon should be back on the track at Lyme Rock raceway in CT this June3 & 4th.



. .

Hav efun
 
Determined to keep y’all in the loop and complete the 6 cylinder saga!

20 min into swapping things over…I find this…I don’t know how it ran at all lol Rotor was loose, which I’m guessing resulted in this failure. Contacts to plug wires were laying inside distributor, when wires pulled the ends came with it cause the contacts were gone, rotor contact broken…boy…this is interesting. Haven’t even got into it to see why the rod bearing got screwed…and I’m finding this.

With the “new” motor on the stand, I installed thermostat and housing, replaced water pump for good measure, installed new PCV grommet and valve, and transferred dipstick. Not much but it’s a start lol. I was able to do all this in 30 min before I had to go pick up my son from school. Dad coming by this afternoon to remove hood with me, and tomorrow or Thursday will do the swap. One step at a time.

Anyone know what brand this distributor is or what type? To me it seems like a GM. Ima need to buy a new cap and rotor for it. Lol

Oh and I need to see where ima put my temp sender for the analog gauges I got temporarily for initial run in. The rear port is too small. 5941323D-5D35-4D73-A6A7-D18BF1E989E3.jpegD652DD18-3066-4AFB-8AB3-EF928DC1ABAB.jpeg04AD3DF5-8787-45EA-B153-FFC1A9850259.jpeg1E8DD07B-9E39-4839-8E3B-F922A68AB98C.jpeg2B208774-9836-48D8-A6BD-812578CBE16B.jpeg
 
It's one of the HEI Clones / copies, you should be able to use the GM HEI Rotor and Cap for a Chevy 6 it should fit right on it. Better ones are NAPA and others with thick material Cap and brass contacts. Good luck
 
motor tilted mount just to fit the frame/body wrk?
Some 1 said last time it was on here, just don't rtemember.
 
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