All Small Six New member! Some questions about 200ci

This relates to all small sixes
sorry bout the RB. Not likely from the bash-in?
We use ARP bolts/nut there as the one weak spot
in the revolving assembly.
"...that carb is garbage..." cant tell. Was thinkin of will an
"...SCV carb work w/a DUI or HEI (that dizzy)?..."
 
sorry bout the RB. Not likely from the bash-in?
We use ARP bolts/nut there as the one weak spot
in the revolving assembly.
"...that carb is garbage..." cant tell. Was thinkin of will an
"...SCV carb work w/a DUI or HEI (that dizzy)?..."
From what I heard it will work but the vacuum has to be ran like it is here and not using the SCV port. Although the port isn’t plugged correctly. Lol
 
Drag-200stang nailed it! X2 yes that #1 Rod is really bad and is the source of all your knocking sound, if it were me I would not bother looking at that # 1 bearing. At the the bare minimum the engine needs to come apart enough to swap in a reground crankshaft, new Main and Rod Bearings and a rebuilt #1 Rod and maybe some more work too. That will depend on what the cylinders and the rest of the engine internals look like, you could be looking at a rebuilt short block.
 
Drag-200stang nailed it! X2 yes that #1 Rod is really bad and is the source of all your knocking sound, if it were me I would not bother looking at that # 1 bearing, at the the bare minimum the engine needs to come apart enough to swap in a reground crankshaft, new Main and Rod Bearings and a rebuilt #1 Rod and maybe some more work. Depending on what the cylinders and the rest of the engine look’s like you could be looking at a rebuilt short block.
I knew it was pretty bad, was thinking along the same lines as you. I would probably ask a machine shop to look at it and see if it can be turned down to accept the Toyota 1JZ-GTE H-Beam conrods, or if its a total loss. putting the 1JZ conrods in it will help strengthen the bottom end, and reduce damage if the engine ever does detonate, and unless you are planning on selling the car at auction, it won't matter if you do put the 1JZ rods in it, other than increasing durability.
 
It is possible that the engine was recently wrongly rebuilt with the wrong bearing and may not be trashed. I would like to see a pic of the rod bearing and crank journal, suspense is killing me.
Hahaha I’m sorry guys! Family comes first as much as I would LOVE to walk out to shop and check it out, today was my wife’s only day off so us and the kids spent the day together. Good new though, is that I’m off tomorrow, and after bringing kids to school that’s the FIRST thing I’m doing when I get home; so stay tuned for the crap show 😂. As for the other guys responses, I just bought the car. Pretty sure I got the weeny from the PO, but that’s okay it’s my fault for not doing my due diligence. My plans are to HOPEFULLY if the journal is good replace bearing and get it back together to buy myself some time so I can enjoy the car with my kids this summer. I’ve been having some emails back and forth with various members with 200ci’s for sale, hopefully I can get one of those that have either been rebuilt or in great shape, and this coming winter I can swap out. Then, I can rebuild this original motor with my son and take my time with it, show him how everything works, and I need to definitely learn a lot along the way. The end goal, is to just create that time with my sons and enjoy the car now, then one day this will be his first car and it’ll mean all that more to him.

Even if the jounral is good and I can replace bearing, I still gotta figure out the China carb situation. Just from comparing to online pics it seems I’m missing linkage pieces like the fast idle cam and screw idk…and I also need to verify the timing with all this distributor and crap he put on it as well. Lots to do, but I’m hoping I can get it all figured out this week. I think the o ring is busted on the dip stick on trans so I think that’s where the trans leak is coming from lol.
 
On the pic of the sump (pan)Looks like there is some score marks from the rod on inside of the sump(usa=pan) - right where the dent is.
So may be 2 sources of knocking.

I had a similar dent on my 200ci sump from when motor was stored in my garage with a brick under the back of the sump to keep it level.

Didnt discover it until motor was in car and all bolted up. Damn
Made a racket when motor running. Managed to pull it out without removing the sump by fixing an external bracket on with jb weld and pulling it. Broke off but moved the sheetmetal enough to not touch the conrod.
 
There is also a way to convert a scv loadomatic 1100 carb to non scv /loadomatic carb -ie a normal one with ported vacuum.

Need 3 set screws/grub screw to strategically block a few drillings.

Is a post in here some where. Search 'drop a loadomatic'
 
It is possible but unlikely that the engine was recently wrongly rebuilt with the wrong bearing and may not be trashed. I would like to see a pic of the rod bearing and crank journal, suspense is killing me.
Okay guys I was hoping to do this first thing this morning but I volunteered to help with testing at my sons school. But your long awaited results are here at last! I took pics without cleaning anything. Tried to measure things with my ****ty set of calipers. Idk what im looking at…when I wiped off the rod cap after taking pics everything is smooth to the touch, I didn’t clean and take pics of journal yet. Fingers crossed I can still buy some time with a new bearing on it. 🥺E7F1A466-F2BD-40A1-AEE2-C82CA39343E2.jpeg070334ED-16CE-45FE-B3CD-9C2DDFC2617C.jpeg55C44ADC-0BFE-4C4E-9736-86B0B4FB9437.jpeg1B38BB07-53D4-427D-A17A-5ED389F8169C.jpeg8CC242EE-13AA-4CA2-B5BD-08F22C515B55.jpeg44B8651D-C126-4D21-A0CA-6AA96F752614.jpeg82A8382A-E84C-4ED9-B410-2D524022DC85.jpeg96038EF3-DEA0-458C-9192-9F9B31F850E3.jpeg75FB5275-CBD0-4BB2-B955-659699F5AD6B.jpeg319320E8-4964-434E-856D-7F4DD1B2D9C0.jpeg
 
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The Rod Bearing has spun in the Rod & Cap and the Rod journal is damaged, Sorry but I don't think a new bearing is going to help it any. There is also what the underlying cause of this happening like a lack of Oil, low Oil Pressure, clogged up oil passages, or very loose bearing clearances from many miles of use, weak Oil Pump etc.?
 
Bubba is right about the spun bearing and possible causes . But if you want to take a shot at getting it running. Get some 800 wet and dry paper and a long shoe lace.
Push the rod up and cut a strip of sand paper the width of the journal and long enough to overlap the ends. Oil it up good wrap it around the bearing and then wrap the shoe lace around it several times, then just pull the lace back and forth. This will polish the journal and you can see what it's really like. If the rod and rod cap have bearing stuff stuck on them, muriatic acid (swimming pool supplies) will dissolve aluminum and not steel.
Lube things and install the cap with correct torque.
This is full blown shade tree stuff and for desperate times.
IMHO that engine is filthy and should come apart for an overhaul, gota pic of the rocker arm assembly.?
I wonder if the cap was not Torqued correctly from the get go.
 
At one time it was posable to turn the crankshafts Rod Throws right in the car, I haven't seen this done for many years now.

You could also get a reground crankshaft Kit with bearings and a rebuilt rod, a rering Kit and do a budget overhaul too. with some hard work you could have it fixed and good enough to drive quite awhile
 
At one time it was posable to turn the crankshafts Rod Throws right in the car, I haven't seen this done for many years now.

You could also get a reground crankshaft Kit with bearings and a rebuilt rod, a rering Kit and do a budget overhaul too. with some hard work you could have it fixed and good enough to drive quite awhile
Man without even looking that up it would prolly be cheaper to buy someone’s 200 and swap 😂. Now remember this is the furthest I’ve been with an engine. Growing up I could swap parts and change pans all day but never had any exprience with interior engine work! Is a piece of the cap bearing stuck in the cap? It seems to be a seam but idk if my eyes are tricking me.04CD8698-8A2F-4742-983A-E0B17A7A5E94.jpeg
 
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What your seeing is the Upper Rod Bearing's Tang stuck on the cap (this is the part of the bearing that goes into the Rod and its Cap's machined notches). When Bearing spun in the Rod it broke off that tang and stuck on that Rod Cap. The one good thing in all this is that the engine wasn't driven too much after the knocking started or it would have kicked that #1 Rod out of the Block.
 
What your seeing is the Upper Rod Bearing's Tang stuck on the cap (this is the part of the bearing that goes into the Rod and its Cap's machined notches). When Bearing spun in the Rod it broke off that tang and stuck on that Rod Cap. The one good thing in all this is that the engine wasn't driven too much after the knocking started or it would have kicked that #1 Rod out of the Block.
Well that’s unfortunate. I guess I’ll just see if I can find someone with one to swap it out with for now. Guess I should start unbolting stuff and see how to pull it out. Would pulling trans and engine together be easier or should I just pull the engine? My neighbor said I can borrow his hoist and stand so that’s nice. I just gotta figure out lift points. This sucks man really disappointing
 
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