All Small Six Oil through lifters

[Invectivus]

So I’m leaning toward swapping the cam on my engine, as it’s the best time with the head off. It’s a used cam, I have the lifters as well, and they were marked, or at least the box is. Two lifters possibly got swapped when packaging compressed, and the cylinder 4 lifters rattled around. So I can possibly buy two new lifters, or replace them all.

I believe I read that it’s not just acceptable, but preferable to swap to oiling lifters with solid pushrods if there is a possibility of upgrading to roller rockers in the future. I have a set of 6.5 Yella Terra rollers, and I’m slow walking a lifter project in my spare time, so there’s that eventuality I’d like to prepare for.

Bonus question, are there any tricks to re-sealing the timing cover? There is no greater sin at my house than leaking on the driveway, the mustang’s C4 dumped its seal in 2010/2011 and hasn’t been allowed home since. I’m leery of breaking that seal at the oil pan and it never being right again (without pulling the pan too).

 

[Jmustang_65]

Clay smith has some. https://claysmithcams.com/clay-smit...usa-hi-rev-hydraulic-lifters-oiling-120-1202/

 

[bubba22349]

Hi Invectivus, for the Oil Through Lifters you use are the Ford Hydraulic Lifters from the (289, 302, 351's) the Ford FE Hydraulic Lifters from the (352, 390, 428, engines) are the non Oil Through. Besides using the Oil Through Lifters you will also need to Tap and Plug the rear Oil Passage on the top Rear of the short Block along with using the Oil Through Push Push Rods when you want to use the 1.65 Yella Terra Roller Rocker Arms. On your question of if are there any tricks to re-sealing the timing cover. This has a better than 50 / 50 chance of working if the Oil Pan gasket isn't damaged but that is probably wishful thinking, but if it is you cut the old Oil Pan gaskets even at the Blocks Front Face and then glue down the new small front Oil Pan pieces good to the Timing Cover that come with the new Timing Cover Gasket Set and install the new Rubber Front Seal and the Crankshaft Damper Seal in the T. C. Use some Permatex Aviation Gasket Cement to glue down those short Oil Pan Rail Gaskets and also glue down the new Timing Cover (T.C.) Gasket use all the bolts to align it to the front of the short Block then let it set overnight. Then the next day your ready to reassemble the T.C. you than use some good Silicone Sealer on the front of the Oil Pan and also add a good bead in the Corner of the Block and Oil Pan, install the T. C., with the Crankshaft Damper and Bolt down the Timing Cover & Damper to its spec's. Good Luck

 

[Invectivus]

The old lifters are comp cams 832-16, non oiling, the clay smith oilers look good, thanks.

I forgot about having to plug the oil passage in the block or end up with an oil leak, so if I run roller rockers I’ll have to pull the head anyway. But at least I won’t have to rebuy lifters.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[hodaka100]

For sealing the timing cover cut off the piece of old oil pan gasket and clean the corners well with brake clean spray and dry thoroughly so the rtv will stick. The balancer snout should be lightly cross hatched with 220 sand paper. If there is a groove you can install the new seal in the cover at a slightly different depth. Assuming there are no dowel pins to line up the cover, you need to center it on the crankshaft. The balancer can be used for that if you can install and remove it easy enough. Do not over tighten the cover bolts

 

[Invectivus]

For getting the balancer off, is the best way an impact wrench? I tried a breaker bar and even in gear and e-brake on, the car would rather roll around. Probably out of gear?

 

[bubba22349]

Yes that would be the very best way. If you have a good helper maybe use Low or Reverse and have them hold the brake pedal down hard along with the E Brake being set. I have also done it using a Bar on the Flywheel Teeth and wedged against one of the block Dowels to keep it from turning too. Good luck

 

[clochard68]

What also works and what I have done is placing a breaker bar against the frame rails and cranking the starter, it worked on the first crank pretty effortless. Make sure the breaker bar fits good on the nut, so it doesn't come loose.

 

[Frank]

For getting the balancer off, is the best way an impact wrench? I tried a breaker bar and even in gear and e-brake on, the car would rather roll around. Probably out of gear?

When using the transmission to hold the engine, use the highest gear. Instinct is to use 1st or R, but this will try to launch the vehicle as many times more as the gear ratio it's in.

 

[fast64ranchero]

I grew up without Impacts, another way that works great but is no longer promoted is this.
Pull the coil wire so the engine will not start.
Wedge the breaker bar against the ground or the frame and bump the starter, this will break the bolt loose. you'll still need a puller to get the balancer off. Sometimes if you don't get the socket firmly onto the balancer bolt it will come off so stand clear if doing this.

 

[Invectivus]

When using the transmission to hold the engine, use the highest gear. Instinct is to use 1st or R, but this will try to launch the vehicle as many times more as the gear ratio it's in.

That’s what I did, popped it into first…thanks!