223 Silent Lash Valvetrain

[bubba22349]

If its time to rebuild or replace your Trans, then if you wanted to do an upgrade of the trans you could look for the stronger (they are Truly Bullet Proof) and much easier shifting 3.03 Trans they also have a synchro in first gear making them a real pleasure to drive compared to any of the older 3 speeds. The 1963 Ford's were first year for them and in my OPIN the 3.03 is the very best 3 speed Ford ever made. Here is a link to site member "GalaxieInline" 1963 Ford 300 showing his combo info. https://fordsix.com/threads/223-performance-build-questions.76750/page-2#post-606504
with very little work the 3.03 could be swapped in and can still use the stock Colum shifting Linkage to. Edited

 

[Frank]

Soooo... After getting the rearend back and installed I took her out for a test drive. The rearend is really quiet now but, I still have the clunking sound. I drove her for about 4 miles to experiment and try to diagnose the problem. Here is what I found:

1. Definitely not the rearend. I am glad however I got the bearings and seals replaced. The also reset the pinion angle since it was a little off. Also found out the it is not an 8 inch rear with 3.89's (per shop manual) but a 9 inch with 3.55's
2. Clunking/Clicking sounds like it is coming from the bellhousing firewall area. You can hear it speed up and slow down with the speed of the car.
3. The noise only occurs when in 1st or reverse. As soon as I shift into 2nd or 3rd the noise stops. I also tried pulling out in 2nd and the noise was not present.
4. She drives fine, and there are no vibrations. There are no issues with shifting either.

I am going to put the rear up on jack stands and fire her up and put her is 1st gear to try and identify where the noise is exactly coming from. I researched this as much as I could and found there may be two possible reasons for the noise.
1. Broken or bad motor or transmission mounts. I replaced the motor mounts 4 years ago. The transmission mount/bushing is original as I cannot find a replacement that is even close to the original.
2. The primary first/reverse gear is missing teeth.

Any advice or insight into this would be greatly appreciated. I have to laugh at this issue, because I always tell my friends and family sooner or later I will have a brand new 1961 Ford with everything that has been/will be replaced or rebuilt. LOL

Sickboy, this is real elementary, but I've had it happen before with symptoms similar to yours: Are you sure the motor mounts are still good? The left one can be broken but you can't tell it with the engine relaxed, it only torques-up on take off and the low gears during acceleration. the whole engine can rise up several inches, and it binds the driveline. Can be tested by jacking the engine up gently on the driver's side, see if it stays in place. Also the engine to bell housing/trans bolts- all tight. And the trans mount. . . Just a thought. .

 

[Sickboy49]

Bubba,
Thanks for the info on the 3.03. I might do something like that in the future. I am trying to keep her as stock as possible, that is why hedging at the thought of putting in a newer (year) transmission. I know I am being slightly hypocritical as I am planning to swap in the Clifford setup, but in my mind that can easily be taken off and put back to stock.

Frank,
I checked out the mounts over the weekend with a pry bar to make sure nothing was broken or loose. I will re-check the engine/bellhousing bolts to make sure they are at the right torque specs.

Thank you both for the information and the advice. I will keep you posted. Also to anyone out there thinking of buying Clifford's intake and exhaust, I can now verify that the quality is not as good as I expected. I will be doing cleanup on the intake, and rebuild of the headers. I will post pics of the intake, and headers shortly.

 

[Sickboy49]

Transmission update: I rechecked the trans/bellhousing bolts and everything is nice and tight. I also put the rearend up, and started the motor. After letting it warm up I had a buddy put it in 1st gear and slowly release the clutch as I was underneath the car. The clunk is definitely coming from the transmission itself as it matches perfectly to the clutch engaging. I am calling a local transmission shop this week to get a quote on a rebuild of my 3 speed.

Clifford Engineering Intake and Header Photos:
I have attached photos of the intake and headers. The intake I am going to take a dremel to the ports around the flange. I do not like those hard edges where the flange and the intake meet. The headers I am going to create a jig and then cut off the header pipes and re-route them since they are for a truck and not a car. I may use bigger pipe for the exhaust because I do not like the how the pipe does not fill the opening on the flange. Plus the welds on the pipe/flange don't look that great. I am glad I did not spend full price for this setup.

 

[Bill56]

Don't get too carried away with grinding the intake.
There is supposed to be a ridge there.
They use a steel ring in that area that also goes into a matching area in the head.
I think it's purpose is for alignment and maybe to aid sealing.

Before you spend a bunch rebuilding the trans, look for one that is used but tight.
The truck version has a lower first gear if you find one of those.
Also look for the 303 trans.
The original T85 is stronger than you need.
The 303 is way stronger still and has a synchro first.
There was also a 4 speed version of the 303.

Re routing the headers should be fun.
You can use a reducer to mate the collectors to a smaller exhaust pipe.
You need to decide if you will add a Y pipe to run the two halves together or if you want to run duals all the way back.
No doubt we can have a long discussion about that on here.
Seems everyone has an opinion about that.

 

[Sickboy49]

Bill,
I know about the rings. I actually removed them from my manifold when I switched to a conventional type intake/exhaust gasket a year or two ago and have not had any issue thus far.
I am months away from designing the exhaust but would enjoy some conversation on the subject.

 

[Bill56]

I can tell you that the 200 I had in a Falcon used twin 2 1/4 with glass packs all the way back.
Probably overkill.
It gave it a deep snort and seemed to work well.
If I were doing it now I would use an H pipe to smooth it a little and maybe pick up some torque.

I left my rings in mostly to avoid having the flow go to a bigger cross section only to go right back where they had been.

 

[Sickboy49]

Bill,
Thanks for the info.

 

[Sickboy49]

Well finally some good news. The engine builder came out this weekend and replaced the faulty head gasket. I also found an issue with the vacuum line from the interior to the Fuel Pump/Vacuum Pump for the wipers. It had a nice big crack in it that was hidden, so that may be the reason the motor wanted to fall on it's face if I stomp the gas pedal to the floor from idle. I will be putting her back together this week. On a side note I was wondering what spark plug gap I should use since the motor is now .040 overbored. I saw a post by GalaxieInline that he was using .050 gap. Anyone have other suggestions?

 

[bubba22349]

If your using the stock Load O Matic Distributor and Carb with the SCV then the gap should be the stock .034 plug gap. If you are using an Pertronix Electronic conversion and a Hotter Coil then you could go up to .045 plug gap. If you are using a DuraSpark II than you can go to a .044 plug gap. If your using a DUI than you could go to a .050 to .060 plug gap. Good luck

 

[Sickboy49]

Thanks Bubba. I am using the Load O Matic with points for the time being. I did not know if the differences in gap on the plugs were due to increased volume in the cylinder or type of distributor. Thank for the education as usual!

 

[GalaxieInline]

Just an FYI, the steel rings did not fit my clifford manifold....I just used the gasket with copper RTV. I haven't had any leaks on the intake side to my knowledge. I also had the port side of my head machined down 10 or 20 thou to get a better seal between the middle two exhaust ports. The factory port divider doesn't quite make it to the surface and leaves room for blowouts and possible "kazooing."

 

[Sickboy49]

An update for everyone. She is running fine now. I still have a little bit of a lag when I mat it to the floor quickly, but nothing as bad as it was before. After I fixed the vacuum leak I set the carb and timing back to stock and started over. I think I had the timing to advanced before. I am now running 18 degrees (with vacuum line plugged into the distributor) at 550-600 rpm at idle.
Next on the list is getting the tranny rebuilt. From everyone that I have talked to it sounds like I am missing teeth, which I confirmed yesterday when I drained the tranny oil. There were a few nice chunks in there. Luckily I found someone local that will rebuild it at a reasonable price.

GalaxieInline,
Thanks for that input. I was looking at that as well. I am glad I am not going crazy over thinking things. Once I build the header for my motor I am going to re-read your posts about your weber(s) setup and might hit you up with a few questions. Mine setup will only be a single 38 dgas, but I think the questions I would have about jetting might cross over to my application.

 

[Sickboy49]

I just got a call from the transmission shop today. They found NOS gears for it and the price will be half of what they quoted me. WooHoo!

 

[Sickboy49]

The tranny is in and she is running strong now. After I took her on two test runs, I got four of my friends to pile in for another test run. I went on a local loop that has some very steeps hills and the motor just pulled through them which was a first. I am going to run her a few more times and then check the fluid levels. Now it is onto the custom exhaust system and the Clifford setup. Saving up for a welder and the tubing. I will keep everyone posted of the progress, and as always thank you all in helping me on the journey.

 

[Sickboy49]

So... I am about to order all the pieces for my custom header that is being built off of a Clifford truck header. Using the same (but new pipe and collector) 1.5" pipe and 2.5" collector. I have been reading through previous posts and it seems everyone is using 2.25 exhaust pipe setup. Anyone have any thoughts on this, and what mufflers to use?
For the time being I will be running the header collectors into a 2 to 1 collector and then into the stock 2" exhaust, until I can save up for all the pipe and mufflers needed for a true dual setup.

 

[Sickboy49]

Update... Here is the header I built using a Clifford truck header. The first three cylinders will exit on the drivers side stock location, and the last 3 will go underneath the engine and exit out the passenger side. The rebar in between 4 and 5 is there so the flange does not get out of square for removal/test fitting and final welding. I have a little tweaking to do on the last 3 before I tack the collector on and test fit it in my car before I do the final welding. Clearances are tight but manageable. Also as an FYI... I will be putting this test motor up for sale after I am done with this project if any of you are interested.

 

[Sickboy49]

Here are a few pictures from my header/exhaust build. Everything is tack welded into place to place so far. I am finish welding the header, and then after that is complete I am going to do another test fit. If everything looks good, then I will finish weld the exhaust and paint it all. I used 1.5 18 gauge mild steel for the header and 2.25 16 gauge mild steel for the exhaust pipes. I sourced both from speedway motors. They were just universal kits.


1. Awkward photo on the duals going down between the center link and the transmission. Very tight fit but it can be done.


2. The crossover pipe to the passenger side. There is about 1.5 inch clearance between the center link and the flywheel cover. Also I have a hanger installed right after the 90 bend going back. I did not want all that weight and stress/flex being supported by just the header. As you can see I also put a flange after the 90 degree bend so I could access the oil pan without taking the whole exhaust out.


3. I had to "massage" the pipes to give me an inch clearance under the transmission crossmember


4. Used the factory hanger locations. I had to make two custom hanger mounting points for the passenger side muffler. I am using glasspacks as mufflers. I used them because they were the cheapest option and if I don't like the sound I can always save up for quieter mufflers.

 

[bubba22349]

Looking great Sickboy49!

 

[Sickboy49]

Looking great Sickboy49!

Thanks Bubba. I hope to have her running again by the end of August.