All Small Six 200 idling poorly

This relates to all small sixes
May have answered my own question, looks like I need Pertronix 1261 since I have a C shape shaft for my dizzy, got the 1261, I guess I will find out if this was my issue all along…
 
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May have answered my own question, looks like I need Pertronix 1261 since I have a C shape shaft for my dizzy, got the 1261, I guess I will find out if this was my issue all along…
Hey again. . It sounds like an odd ignition miss, fire cuts out completely then jumps back to full fire. Focusing on the Pertronix is a good starting point.
 
Hey again. . It sounds like an odd ignition miss, fire cuts out completely then jumps back to full fire. Focusing on the Pertronix is a good starting point.
Yeah I got the 1261 coming and here Wednesday, fingers crossed that’s it. I’ve been chasing this issue for months and it sounds like finally this could be it.
 
Yeah I got the 1261 coming and here Wednesday, fingers crossed that’s it. I’ve been chasing this issue for months and it sounds like finally this could be it.
You can verify that it is the spark- especially easy with what seems to be "mass-miss firing" for a full second or so at the time- by hooking a timing light to the coil-to-distributor cap wire (not #1 wire). Start up, and shine the light at any reflective surface. ANY gaps in the light, you have isolated your issue to ignition miss.
I would double check and make sure everything is gapped correctly!
Yes, this is critical.
 
Could be a bad ignition switch, Mine went bad when the car was only four years old.
Voltage testers will not react fast enough for a bad intermittent contacts.
 
when was it doing better? (before Petronix install, no?)
What else was done during the (before and after the) Petronix install?
Go ack to the time it was doing ok in ur mind, at least as far as what's ur current complaint...
 
So I don’t remember if it was idling good or not before but I don’t think so, I do recall the car idling low anyway before I did new plugs and cables and Pertronix. So I changed to Pertronix 1261 which is the proper one for my distributor, no change, still poor idle. What I did learn today is that I have a dual advance distributor or the newer kind as they say and not a load-o-matic distributor (the old one with the two springs inside). Right now I have a vacuum line going from the automatic transmission to the manifold and then a vacuum line from the distributor to the carburator, I have an 1100 with the spark control valve. What I have learned is that with the distributor I have I should not be putting that vacuum line into the carb but into the manifold, is that correct? So essentially I need to T line both the automatic transmission vacuum line and the vacuum line from the distributor, sounds right? What I have read is that the vacuum line going to the carb could be causing a leak. Does this make sense? Thank you for the help!
 
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hoboy, read/understand this:
(from the Tech Archive at top of this page blue horrizontal line just right of center)...
 
hoboy, read/understand this:
(from the Tech Archive at top of this page blue horrizontal line just right of center)...
I’m not trying to pretend that I know what I’m doing here, can you even tell me if I’m remotely on the right track?
 
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Yes, the dual advance distributors run good on manifold vacuum. That's how mine is set up right now, an 1100 with a SCV and an unused capped off distributor line out, and a dual advance distributor running off manifold vacuum.
 
Yes, the dual advance distributors run good on manifold vacuum. That's how mine is set up right now, an 1100 with a SCV and an unused capped off distributor line out, and a dual advance distributor running off manifold vacuum.
My manifold has one hole for a vacuum line now and that auto trans vacuum line going there, I assume I can put a T so I can run the line from the distributor as well? Then cap the hole on the carb where the distributor line used to go to?
 
My manifold has one hole for a vacuum line now and that auto trans vacuum line going there, I assume I can put a T so I can run the line from the distributor as well? Then cap the hole on the carb where the distributor line used to go to?
yes that will be acceptable.
 
Well put a T so both the distributor and auto transmission vacuum lines end up at the manifold, idling still poor, I give up! Bad distributor maybe?
IMG_6489.jpeg
 
Just saw this post.
Had a similar experience back in the mid 1970’s with a 170 having a rough idle. It turned out to be a stretched timing chain.
 
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Did you ever do a compression check? When you do one keep the throttle wide open.
If the compression is ok, get rid of the loadamatic distributor & either get a carb. with no SCV or modify yours so you can get rid of the SCV.
Or get a DS11 distributor with a non-SCV carb.
 
Did you ever do a compression check? When you do one keep the throttle wide open.
If the compression is ok, get rid of the loadamatic distributor & either get a carb. with no SCV or modify yours so you can get rid of the SCV.
Or get a DS11 distributor with a non-SCV carb.
Compression test was good. I do not have a loadomatic distributor actually. If you read my earlier posts you will see progress here or not, not sure. Latest thing to try is a 3.0 ohms coil, the one I have is 1.5 and it’s wrong for my setup.
 
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