mark***71852
Active member
I'm sorry I meant EXHAUST Manifold.
All Small Six 144 to a later model 200 swap in a 62 falcon
- Thread starter mark***71852
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
You said intake but I think you meant exhaust manifold. Yes, they will all bolt on any head and interchange, only the late manifolds need a few more of the long bolts. The early manifolds are a little more restrictive though, and more prone to cracking. The first few years of the 200 used the 1-3/4" outlet, so it's not a huge power loss.
mark***71852
Active member
Yes I did mean exhaust, I'm going to pull the 144 this weekend, and get it on an engine stand beside the 200 that way I can interchange things alot easier. I feel like for the car I'm building if that manifold on the 144 isn't in disrepair it would likely work for me.
mark***71852
Active member
I do have one local to me I'll definitely check with them.
You must mean the exhaust manifold. The 144 exhaust manifold will fit the 200.
mark***71852
Active member
Have a long weekend with the 4th so pulled the 144 and transmission yesterday, went smooth. Today I pulled the exhaust manifold from the 144, it's in great condition, and is currently soaking in my parts washer. Pulled the oil pan off the 144, cleaned.... cleaned, and cleaned some more lol. It's also in grand condition and fits the 200 perfectly as you all knew it would. I removed the oil pickup tube from both engines, I mocked up the one from the 144, to the 200 oil pump, looks to be a perfect fit.(im replacing pump and tibe with new while im in there) So that all went well. One of my next moves is the dipstick. The 200 does have provision for relocating, ( pictures include ) any tips, best way to remove the dipstick. The blind hole on the 200, I can drill from either side. (or at least it looks like I can) and drill out whatever the factory filled it with. Lastly when all is said and done, I personally, think I'd feel better if the blind hole that remains is tapped and bolted. Any tips would be very much appreciated.
mark***71852
Active member
mark***71852
Active member
Thanks
Thanks Bill, I'll definitely look into that.
I use a Vise Grip right next to the Block Opening to pull the Dipstick Tube Out you don't need to put much more than very light pressure on it, just barely grab onto it and then work it back and forth as you also put a little upward pull on it. If you worried about damaging it you could do it this other way too by putting the correct size machine screw or bolt that fits close in the top opening were you using a vise grip so it doesn't distort it. Good luck
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Do not drill out the soft plug, knock it out from inside the with a steel rod or bolt that fits well and lock tight it in where you pulled the dipstick tube out of.
mark***71852
Active member
Awesome, I'll give that a shot. Thank you.
mark***71852
Active member
Thank you I sure will, I appreciate that tip.
mark***71852
Active member
Got the dipstick moved, easy peasy! Used the vice vrips and a bit of penetraiting oil with just a little persistence it came out. Tapped the soft plug out with a brass drift, and once I saw what it was I went ahead and reinstalled it in the blind hole that the dipstick tube came out of. So thanks to you all.
Also, had my exhaust manifold in the parts cleaner all night, cleaned up very well, again its the one from the 144 but I don't see the smaller diameter really affecting me for what I'm after. I found 1 ear that was cracked, so my local machine shop is going to braze it for me. To be honest I probably could have left it, but that just didn't sit well with me. At any rate I sure appreciate everyone's advice and tips.
Also, had my exhaust manifold in the parts cleaner all night, cleaned up very well, again its the one from the 144 but I don't see the smaller diameter really affecting me for what I'm after. I found 1 ear that was cracked, so my local machine shop is going to braze it for me. To be honest I probably could have left it, but that just didn't sit well with me. At any rate I sure appreciate everyone's advice and tips.
Brazing on the Exhaust Manifold is a Bad Idea, it won't stay in there with the Temps that the Exhaust Manifold works at. You could Arc Weld it with some Nickle Rod or else leave it alone if it's not that bad.
mark***71852
Active member
You know when he told me that I sorta questioned it in my mind. I'm absolutely not a metal man, I don't even own a welder, but in my mind I thought exactly what you just said. But I trusted the guy, dang I'm afraid the damage is likely already done, as he told me to come back on Wednesday morning and it would be done
mark***71852
Active member
Thanks that gave me some piece of mind, it is just a clean Crack on one if the ears that would be on the bottom or under side. I honestly thought when I found it, that it would likely be ok. I'm kind of at a stand still waiting on parts for a few days, and figured I might as well have it repaired since I'm down waiting anyway. Again though thanks for the piece of mind.
The manifold is rigid. It can work and not leak even with a missing bolt.
Put a flat washer on the bolt that goes on the cracked ear.
Fill the crack with anti-seize so you don't see it.
From what I have read if you braze or weld it and it cracks it won't be the braze or weld that cracks it will be next to it.
I had to put a long bolt in the rear dip stick tube then grab it with vice grips. It was tighter than hell.
You won't know if the oil pickup for the shorter 1/4" drive oil pump will work until you try to install the oil pan.
The 144 and the 5/16" drive oil pump 200's don't use the same oil pickup.
The oil screen may sit directly on the bottom of the pan or worse.
One guy "Mark" gave up on his 78 200 install in his daughters car when he couldn't get the oil pan on.
It was the last straw. He had a running older 200 that he installed.
I think he was too cheap to buy a 65 200 oil pump pickup for a job he was doing for free.
Put a flat washer on the bolt that goes on the cracked ear.
Fill the crack with anti-seize so you don't see it.
From what I have read if you braze or weld it and it cracks it won't be the braze or weld that cracks it will be next to it.
I had to put a long bolt in the rear dip stick tube then grab it with vice grips. It was tighter than hell.
You won't know if the oil pickup for the shorter 1/4" drive oil pump will work until you try to install the oil pan.
The 144 and the 5/16" drive oil pump 200's don't use the same oil pickup.
The oil screen may sit directly on the bottom of the pan or worse.
One guy "Mark" gave up on his 78 200 install in his daughters car when he couldn't get the oil pan on.
It was the last straw. He had a running older 200 that he installed.
I think he was too cheap to buy a 65 200 oil pump pickup for a job he was doing for free.
