That's right very Good! I see you also have all the front and rear Oil Galley Plugs installed now. Very Good! You will still need the Rear Camshaft Soft Plug and the Rear of Block Freeze Plug installed sometime to. Use the Permatex Aviation Cement to seal these two and also any other of the Block Freeze Plugs that aren't installed yet. Some People as a preference will wait until they have Painted the Short or Long Block Assembly if they want their Brass or Steel Freeze Plugs to show in their natural finish.Have the spacer rotated, pin in snug and starting on the crankshaft.
You can put a very small bead of Silicone into the 90 degree corner of where the Blocks Main Cap Cut Out is before putting in the Main Cap and Torqueing it down. You could also put a very very small amount at the outside of the Rear of Block and the Rear Main Cap's edge near the external Parting Lines but don't go crazy there. I don't follow you on the front of engine between crank and timing chain cover for the seals unless your talking about the front Timing Cover Crankshaft To Damper Seal? If it is than this get driven in from the back of the Timing Cover with a Seal Driver or Socket that's the correct diameter size could also be used.On the rear main seal, the kit comes with two rubber seals, and two rope seals. I assume the rubber seals are for the “outside “ of the rear main cap or retainer. Goes between the rear main and oil pan? The smaller rubber goes on front of engine between crank and timing chain cover. Question about the rope seals is where to meet the two ends. I assume rotate so not in line with edge of block.
These Rope Type seals usually don't leak for a quite awhile, if you use a sealer than use it very sparingly like a small dab of Silicone on the end. Looking good. Edited for correctionsAlso, do you use a sealant where they meet? Type? I hate oil drips and want really prevent that coming over the edge of oil pan or at rear main. See pics
X3 B RON CO nailed it yes those two Rubber Seals are for the ends of the Oil Pan the Cork Rail Gaskets get glued down with some of the Permatex Gasket Cement then those rubber seal's are installed on top of them. This is after you install the Oil Pump and Its Oil Pump Pick Up Tube and the Front Timing Cover. Set the Oil Pan on top of it with the Oil Pan Bolts installed loosely over night to hold down the Oil Pan Rail Cork Gaskets in place and lined up correctly. Then when you are ready to Finish the Oil Pan install use some Silicone on top of the Oil Pan Cork Rail Gaskets and in the corner were those Rubber End Seal meet on both sides of the front and rear. Keep up the Good Work adobejoe.Hi, the rubber seals are part of the oil pan gasket set. They both look too short. The ends should sit on the block surface. For some reason the rope seal looks like it is not in the right place. I remember the rope seal sitting just proud of the block surface on both sides. You really need to consult a Ford or Chilton manual to get this right. Good luck
Bubba, yes looked at the rope install. Need that nail, or pin, and seam at block edge. Cleaned up block and end cap with 800 grit on a flat to remove any burs. Will use a drop or two of silicone where rope meets on each end. Does anything go inside that dust/freeze cap area at end of cam shaft? Drag-200 stand, thank you thank you for that blunder I had on thrust bearing. Relocated. See pic.
Bubba, yes looked at the rope install. Need that nail, or pin, and seam at block edge. Cleaned up block and end cap with 800 grit on a flat to remove any burs. Will use a drop or two of silicone where rope meets on each end. Does anything go inside that dust/freeze cap area at end of cam shaft? Drag-200 stand, thank you thank you for that blunder I had on thrust bearing. Relocated. See pic.
Hi adobejoe, that's great I am glad that you got all the Main Cap surfaces cleaned up and Flat. You can make a suitable replacement for the missing Pointed Pin to go into the Rear Main Cap out of a small finish nail of around a 3 or 4 Penney size cut to length. Take you Rear Main Cap with you so you can check the nails size Diameter is right for a drive in snug fit.Bubba, yes looked at the rope install. Need that nail, or pin, and seam at block edge. Cleaned up block and end cap with 800 grit on a flat to remove any burs. Will use a drop or two of silicone where rope meets on each end. Does anything go inside that dust/freeze cap area at end of cam shaft?