All Small Six 200 6 rebuild steps

[adobejoe]

Bubba, Thanks will try to track one down. Talked to a local auto shop machinists and he prefers neoprene and use of "black silicone." I think there is even more a risk of oil leaks around the oil pan because you have two curved gaskets and all that cork. So I am going to take this carefully.

I have a 72 mg with the 1275 cc engine and it leaks or drips and in an annoying way. I remember back in the 1970's and at filling stations you would see ugly black stains. Trying to get it right.

 

[bubba22349]

Here are most of the two piece Neoprene Rear Main Seal numbers that fit in the 144, 170, & your 200 six.

Ford Motorcraft OEM seal is C9AE6701B this is the very best one to use if you can find one.

Most of the more common Neoprene Rear Main Seals

FelPro BS30135 Neoprene Seal or
Felpro P30135 Neoprene Seal I don't think this one is a US application?

I haven't used most of these in the below Cross Reference Rear Seal Numbers yet but several site members have said that they have used a few of them like the next three.

National 5116

Timken 5116 Neoprene Seal

Corteco 17042 Neoprene Seal

These are all the Cross Reference Seal Numbers that I could find so there were many different choices once.

Brand	Sku	Type	Name	Relevance
Fel-Pro	BS30135	Rear Main Bearing Seal Set	Fel-Pro BS30135 Rear Main Bearing Seal Set	Direct	Details»
ROL	RS29050	Seal, Crankshaft	ROL RS29050 Seal, Crankshaft	Direct	Details»
AutoZone	BS 30135	Rear Main Gasket/Set	AutoZone BS 30135 Rear Main Gasket/Set	Direct	Details»
AutoZone	RS29050	Seal, Crankshaft	AutoZone RS29050 Seal, Crankshaft	Direct	Details»
PRONTO	RS29050	Seal, Crankshaft	PRONTO RS29050 Seal, Crankshaft	Direct	Details»
PARTS MASTER	RS29050	Seal, Crankshaft	PARTS MASTER RS29050 Seal, Crankshaft	Direct	Details»
VICTOR	JV730P	Seal	VICTOR JV730P Seal	Direct	Details»
MAHLE ORIGINAL	JV730P	Seal, Crankshaft	MAHLE ORIGINAL JV730P Seal, Crankshaft	Direct	Details»
CLEVITE	JV730P	Seal, Crankshaft	CLEVITE JV730P Seal, Crankshaft	Direct	Details»
AutoZone	JV730P	Seal, Crankshaft	AutoZone JV730P Seal, Crankshaft	Direct	Details»
NATIONAL	5116	Engine Crankshaft Seal	NATIONAL 5116 Engine Crankshaft Seal	Direct	Details»
PERFECT CIRCLE	JV730P	Rear Main Gasket/Set	PERFECT CIRCLE JV730P Rear Main Gasket/Set	Direct	Details»
PARTS PLUS	P5116	Rear Main Bearing Seal Set	PARTS PLUS P5116 Rear Main Bearing Seal Set	Direct	Details»
PRECISION AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRIES	5116	Rear Main Bearing Seal Set	PRECISION AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRIES 5116 Rear Main Bearing Seal Set	Direct	Details»
MOOG	5116	Rear Main Bearing Seal Set	MOOG 5116 Rear Main Bearing Seal Set	Direct	Details»
TIMKEN	5116	Rear Main Bearing Seal Set	TIMKEN 5116 Rear Main Bearing Seal Set	Indirect	Details»
SKF	204	Engine Crankshaft Seal, Engine Crankshaft Seal Kit	SKF 204 Engine Crankshaft Seal, Engine Crankshaft Seal Kit	Indirect	Details»
MCCORD	BS167	Seal, Crankshaft	MCCORD BS167 Seal, Crankshaft	Indirect	Details»
CARQUEST	JV730P	Seal, Crankshaft	CARQUEST JV730P Seal, Crankshaft	Indirect	Details»
AutoZone	5116	Seal, Crankshaft	AutoZone 5116 Seal, Crankshaft	Indirect	Details»
Fel-Pro	RFO6200	Seal, Crankshaft	Fel-Pro RFO6200 Seal, Crankshaft	Indirect	Details»
DC GASKET	BS7320R	Seal, Crankshaft	DC GASKET BS7320R Seal, Crankshaft	Indirect	Details»
SKF Automotive	OS204	Seal	SKF Automotive OS204 Seal	Indirect	Details»
SKF Automotive	SKF204	Seal	SKF Automotive SKF204 Seal	Indirect	Details»
Delco Moraine	29614	Seal	Delco Moraine 29614 Seal	Indirect	Details»
ABC	71-204	Seal	ABC 71-204 Seal	Indirect	Details»
SEALED POWER	N-204	Seal	SEALED POWER N-204 Seal	Indirect	Details»
CR	204	Seal	CR 204 Seal	Indirect	Details»
L&S Bearing	71-204	Seal	L&S Bearing 71-204 Seal	Indirect	Details»
L&S Bearing	86220K	Seal	L&S Bearing 86220K Seal	Indirect	Details»
L&S Bearing	A86220K	Seal	L&S Bearing A86220K Seal	Indirect	Details»
TROSTEL	A86220K	Seal	TROSTEL A86220K Seal	Indirect	Details»
VICTOR	JV730	Seal	VICTOR JV730 Seal	Indirect	Details»
CHRYSLER	T3934	Seal	CHRYSLER T3934 Seal	Indirect	Details»
FORD	C9AE6701B	Seal	FORD C9AE6701B Seal	Indirect	Details»
FORD	C9AZ6701B	Seal	FORD C9AZ6701B Seal	Indirect	Details»
TRIUMPH	RCS503	Rear Main Gasket/Set	TRIUMPH RCS503 Rear Main Gasket/Set	Indirect	Details»
Western Auto	7412323	Rear Main Gasket/Set	Western Auto 7412323 Rear Main Gasket/Set	Indirect	Details»
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS	RCS503	Rear Main Gasket/Set	STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS RCS503 Rear Main Gasket/Set	Indirect	Details»
CARQUEST	JV730	Engine Crankshaft Seal	CARQUEST JV730 Engine Crankshaft Seal	Indirect	Details»
ACDelco	296-14	Seal, Crankshaft	ACDelco 296-14 Seal, Crankshaft	Indirect	Details»
DT Components	5116	Engine Crankshaft Seal	DT Components 5116 Engine Crankshaft Seal	Indirect	Details»
Precision Seals & Bearings	5116	Seal	Precision Seals & Bearings 5116 Seal	Indirect	Details»
CHICAGO RAWHIDE	204	Rear Main Bearing Seal Set	CHICAGO RAWHIDE 204 Rear Main Bearing Seal Set	Indirect	Details»

I used lots of those Motorcraft original equipment (OEM) Rear Main Seals back in the late 1960's as soon as they became available and into the 1980's (sadly Ford stopped making them). If you locate one they are going to fit right and do the job perfectly, sometimes you can still find an NOS seal for sale on eBay and other sites like some of the antique Ford parts stores that bough up the NOS parts as they were fazed out. I have also used lots of the FelPro Seals with great results, but not in the last several years and a number of site members have reported having trouble using them successfully, I don't know why that is though. I do find it interesting that since about 2020 there isn't any of the FelPro's 200 six seals available yet the best info I have is that they will be coming back again sometime, but when? Good Group of posts that covers the install of the Rear Main seals here.

All Small Six - Rear main seal - Tips and Tricks

I pulled the transmission out of my 65 mustang (inline 6) this weekend (I am so proud of myself) to replace the clutch and found oil and sludge inside the bellhousing. I am thinking the rear main seal may need to be replaced? Unless finding oil and sludge in the BH is normal? Thoughts? Is...

fordsix.com

As far as getting the stock Cork & Rubber Oil Pan Gaskets to seal good this isn't all that hard to do especially if you already have the engine out of the car and on an engine stand, setting on a work table, or a bench. I can help you with that when your ready.

 

[adobejoe]

Thanks. Much appreciated. Taking a week of sea kayaking tomorrow-26th. But the will get back at it.

 

[drag-200stang]

Sea you later

 

[adobejoe]

Bubba, Local Ford dealership found a place that has the Original motorcraft seal. Ordered one!

 

[bubba22349]

That's great news!

 

[adobejoe]

Part arrived. Original package. Want to confirm installation orientation Looks to me like yellow side faces forward. Position as shown 2 o’clock and 10 o’clock. Should I seat gasket in groove in silicon or gasket cement? Black silicon where the meet and light film of oil or grease on ridge/contact point? They can get more of these. $27 on part and $21 on shipping.

 

[bubba22349]

That's some really great detective work being able find the Original Ford Part Number Rear Main Seal it will work excellent on all the 144, 170, & 200 Small Six's! Yes that would be the correct way to install them as far as doing the clocking part. However that painted yellow side of that seal would need to be facing towards the back of the engine so that the open side of the seals lip is always to the inside of the engine.

That's really up to you if you want to set it in the seal grove using a silicone or gasket cement to glue it in, I don't ever do that. I would also have think that any extra thickness of material in the grove would put a little extra pressure on the seals edge that's touching on rubbing on the crankshaft surface. I only make sure the Blocks and the Rear Main Caps Grove is clean of and Dirt, Grease, or any other Crud, wire brush it out then install the seal and clock it then its a done deal. The OEM seals I have removed were also like that though the early ones were not clocked. The only Ford Tech Bulletin that I know of on these type Rear Main Seals was only about Clocking them in the Grove.

If your very worried its going to leak (It really shouldn't since its the right main seal) I guess after its installed completely with rear main cap bolted down to the torque spec. If you wanted to I guess you could go around the outside of that seal and the grove (at the Back of the block) using a very small bead of the Silicone from that outer grove of the block bridging over to the side of the seal use your finger to smooth it and push it into that outer grove, again I never did that either. Good luck

If you don't mind PM me with that info on how to get those Rear Main Seals.

 

[adobejoe]

That's some really great detective work being able find the Original Ford Part Number Rear Main Seal it will work excellent on all the 144, 170, & 200 Small Six's! Yes that would be the correct way to install them as far as doing the clocking part. However that painted yellow side of that seal would need to be facing towards the back of the engine so that the open side of the seals lip is always to the inside of the engine. That's really up to you if you want to set it in the seal grove using a silicone or gasket cement to glue it in, I don't ever do that. I would also have think that any extra thickness of material in the grove would put a little extra pressure on the seals edge that's touching on rubbing on the crankshaft surface. I only make sure the Blocks and the Rear Main Caps Grove is clean of and Dirt, Grease, or any other Crud, wire brush it out then install the seal and clock it then its a done deal. The OEM seals I have removed were also like that though the early ones were not clocked. The only Ford Tech Bulletin that I know of on these type Rear Main Seals was only about Clocking them in the Grove. If your very worried its going to leak (It really shouldn't since its the right main seal) I guess after its installed completely with rear main cap bolted down to the torque spec. If you wanted to I guess you could go around the outside of that seal and the grove (at the Back of the block) using a very small bead of the Silicone from that outer grove of the block bridging over to the side of the seal use your finger to smooth it and push it into that outer grove, again I never did that either. Good luck If you don't mind PM me with that info on how to get those Rear Main Seals.

 

[adobejoe]

Pictures as I go above. Neoprene seal is a big improvement. Pistons went in smoothly. Crank turns well and smooth. Lots of lube. Now With number one at top, I am close to placing timing chain and gears. Alignment marks look good, at TDC and looks like lobes on cam not engaging valves for number one. Am I missing any spacers, or washers, or good to go?

 

[Frank]

Elementary I know, but I goofed up a rebuild once from this- Be sure the pistons face with the slot facing forward.

 

[adobejoe]

Thanks Frank. Yes groove or slot faces forward. I am concerned about not getting 180 deg off on the distributor. The number one piston I think passes TDC twice, once at combustion and once on exhaust stroke, so I think it is okay because based on cam lobes in pic neither valve is open so it must be combustion here. once I get the chain and gears, and drop distributor in right alignment the rest should be straightforward. As long as I just stay patient,

 

[bubba22349]

Pictures as I go above. Neoprene seal is a big improvement. Pistons went in smoothly. Crank turns well and smooth. Lots of lube. Now With number one at top, I am close to placing timing chain and gears. Alignment marks look good, at TDC and looks like lobes on cam not engaging valves for number one. Am I missing any spacers, or washers, or good to go?

Hi adobejoe, well Can't see behind you Camshaft timing gear to know if you have all the right parts mounted on the nose of the Cam. If you have all the parts in the below picture mounted on the front of the Cam then your ready to install the Timing Gears and Timing Chain. I.E. That's First install the Camshaft Spacer Ring / Wedding Ring with the Bevel towards / Facing the nose of the Cam. Is the Front Oil Galley Plug installed if not it need to be installed next. Then you install the Camshaft Thrust Plate making sure there are also those Oiling Groves showing in the below picture that are facing the Camshaft Nose this is the most important side to have them, most of the newer Thrust Plates will have them on both sides but I think some of the older maybe didn't. And you can use some Red or Blue Lock Tite on those Thrust Plat bolts also check bolt heads have enough clearance so that the Camshaft gear doesn't ever touch them when it turning, then your go to go. Good Luck.

 

[adobejoe]

Bubba,

Timing gears set. Oil galley plugs in place. Torqued down main bearing and rod bearings. Next step I believe is front cover, and then oil pump with drive rod, and oil pan. Sound right? On the front cover I believe pulley wearing diameter seals on rubber seal. I will have to clean up that pulley wearing surface, maybe wire wheel, 800 grit and steel wool.

 

[bubba22349]

Hi adobejoe, the Timing Gears look right on! Yes Oil Pump, Oil Pump Up Tube, etc. can go on now or you can do the Timing cover first. Yes clean up that Damper really good if you have a wire wheel on a bench grinder that works good to get all that rust off. Front Cover is installed with its new Front Seal and block Gasket goes on this can also be glued to the front of the block with the Permatex Aviation Cement first if you want then use a little Silicone to top of gasket and the timing cover this way would give you the ability to remove the Timing cover once or twice with out damage to the gasket. I will usually have the Damper ready to put on with it so that it can help center itself on the Front Timing Cover Seal, then I check the Front cover is flat and matching up to both of the blocks front corners. Then after that with the Oil Pump installed then you glue down the Cork Pan Rail Gaskets with some of the Permatex Aviation Cement. Then with the Oil Pans Weight on them overnight (and with the pan bolts installed loosely just to hold Pan Rail Gaskets in position). This this method will give you the ability to remove the the Oil Pan once or twice with out damage to the the Pan Rail gaskets then you use a little Silicone to top of Cork Gaskets and the Oil Pan for a great seal. The next morning before you have installed the Oil Pan if you want you can use some modeling clay on the Oil Pump Pick Up Tube Center to check the depth that its setting in the bottom of the Oil Pan. Good luck Edited

 

[adobejoe]

Hi adobejoe, the Timing Gears look right on! Yes Oil Pump, Oil Pump Up Tube, etc. can go on now or you can do the Timing cover first. Yes clean up that Damper really good if you have a wire wheel on a bench grinder that works good to get all that rust off. Front Cover is installed with its new Front Seal and block Gasket goes on this can also be glued to the front of the block with the Permatex Aviation Cement first if you want then use a little Silicone to top of gasket and the timing cover this way would give you the ability to remove the Timing cover once or twice with out damage to the gasket. I will usually have the Damper ready to put on with it so that it can help center itself on the Front Timing Cover Seal, then I check the Front cover is flat and matching up to both of the blocks front corners. Then after that with the Oil Pump installed then you glue down the Cork Pan Rail Gaskets with some of the Permatex Aviation Cement. Then with the Oil Pans Weight on them overnight (and with the pan bolts installed loosely just to hold Pan Rail Gaskets in position). This this method will give you the ability to remove the the Oil Pan once or twice with out damage to the the Pan Rail gaskets then you use a little Silicone to top of Cork Gaskets and the Oil Pan for a great seal. The next morning before you have installed the Oil Pan if you want you can use some modeling clay on the Oil Pump Pick Up Tube Center to check the depth that its setting in the bottom of the Oil Pan. Good luck Edited

Bubba, Oil pump mounted. I have to be careful and drop that drive rod beneath the distributor or I will have a dry engine! Soaked the front pulley in vinegar two days and cleaned it up…see pics. I painted a white dot at timing notch, which I assumed is top dead center. But then I noticed it does not align with keyway. Also my front cover has this little extension for some reason also showing the marks. Painted a white dot there as well. Kind of curious why the pulley has a rubber piece or ring inset on either side. Second pulley must be for power steering or AC neither of which I have. Very close to installing front cover, pulley, and oil pan. Then I may need my chain hoist as it is getting difficult on the table.

 

[bubba22349]

Hi adobejoe, doesn't the Distributors Hex drive Shaft have like a grove in one end with small ring on it to lock it into the center shafts broached hex hole on the bottom of the Distributor? Those marks should line up with your timing marks perfectly they offset to one side so that is also why they wont ever directly line up with the Crankshaft and Timing Gear Key Way. I think they started using those Extended Timing Mark Brackets on around the mid 1970's engines as they started having more and more Accessories like Power Steering and AC mounted on the small six engines I know my 1977 Maverick 250 which was loaded with everything had one but most of early engines didn't. The Rubber in the Damper is for Damping of the Crankshafts Torsional Twisting / Harmonics due to it long length and from all the Pistons and Rods moving up stopping at the top and then moving back down stopping the bottom and then starting back up again and over and over again.

 

[adobejoe]

Hi adobejoe, doesn't the Distributors Hex drive Shaft have like a grove in one end with small ring on it to lock it into the center shafts broached hex hole on the bottom of the Distributor? Those marks should line up with your timing marks perfectly they offset to one side so that is also why they wont ever directly line up with the Crankshaft and Timing Gear Key Way. I think they stated using those Extended Timing Mark on around the mid 1970's engines as they started having more and more Accessories like power steering and AC mounted on the small six engines I know my 1977 Maverick 250 which was loaded with everything had one but most of early engines didn't. The Rubber in the Damper is for Damping of the Crankshafts Torsional Twisting / Harmonics due to it long length from all the Pistons and Rods moving up stopping at the top and then moving back down stopping the bottom and then starting back up again and over and over again.

No groove on hex drive rod. It looks to just drop in. When I install distributor I think I just need to be careful of orientation relative to the block (I think vacuum port face to front), and with piston one at full extension. Set points rough with feeler gage at advance about 12 deg. Eventually when running I will use dwell meter and set timing (vac plugged), at about 2,000 rpm. Getting ahead of myself, I have quite a few others steps first! Thanks for your insights!

adobejoe

 

[bubba22349]

No groove on hex drive rod. It looks to just drop in. When I install distributor I think I just need to be careful of orientation relative to the block (I think vacuum port face to front), and with piston one at full extension. Set points rough with feeler gage at advance about 12 deg. Eventually when running I will use dwell meter and set timing (vac plugged), at about 2,000 rpm. Getting ahead of myself, I have quite a few others steps first! Thanks for your insights!

adobejoe

Well I guess then you could use a dab of White Grease or Assembly Lube to hold the Oil Pump Drive Shaft into the bottom of the Distributor's Hex so it will stay until its into the Oil Pump. The Distributors Vacuum Advance Canister should be pointing straight back to the rear facing the Cars Firewall. Its all good, yes that's right and doesn't hurt anything to be thinking ahead.

Basic Tune up settings for a 1965 Ford 200 Six is to set distributors points to the basic .025 point gap setting, set the Spark Plug Gaps at .034, Dwell is set when engine is running to 38 to 39 Degrees with the engine at its Idle speed roughly 550 to 600 RPM depending on the type Trans you have. An Auto trans Car gets set to a Base Ignition Timing of 12 Degrees BTDC, or a Manual Trans is set to 6 Degrees BTDC. The Idle RPM for an Auto Trans is 525 in Drive with Parking brake set. A Manual Trans car is set to 625 RPM. Good luck

 

[adobejoe]

About ready to install oil pan. I assume the two curved rubber seals do not use any silicone but the pan to cork does? A critical point looks to be where the rubber seals meet cork, so maybe a bit there. Pencil point.

second pic is my rebuilt dagenham with the rods and chrome shifter.. I replaced synchros and a gear and gaskets and bearings. I can find the four gears and reverse okay on the bench, so it should be good to go. Just an 8 1/2 inch clutch but should be fine.
Thanks on those specs!