A
Anonymous
Guest
i got a te cortina with a xe 250 x flow efi it's got extractors and thermo's and thats as far as mods go i was wondering what you would do if you had about $2000 to spend on the car (the stereo is done) 
Chrome. It makes you go faster. Especially a chrome towball.
So, the car handles OK, stops alright, nothing to spend there? Tyres fine?
Seriously: "Thermos" - Thermotec wrap or thermoquad carb?
And do you have UP TO $2K or around $2K, or maybe $2K to spend? So many questions.
If you mean extractor wrap, throw it away right now. It will ruin them quickly. Sad but true. I'd spend $450 on a Crow timing set, lifters and cam, $800 recoing and hopping up an '85 alloy head, get a 4-barrel Redline manifold (see Rare Spares), and a rebuilt Holley carb to suit (Pro-Action in SA is cheapest), spending the balance on dyno tuning the carb. Maybe crawl the swap meets for Clevo roller rockers. (If you plan to fit woller wockers, you need to machine the head before installing.)
Cheers, Adam.
So, the car handles OK, stops alright, nothing to spend there? Tyres fine?
Seriously: "Thermos" - Thermotec wrap or thermoquad carb?
And do you have UP TO $2K or around $2K, or maybe $2K to spend? So many questions.
If you mean extractor wrap, throw it away right now. It will ruin them quickly. Sad but true. I'd spend $450 on a Crow timing set, lifters and cam, $800 recoing and hopping up an '85 alloy head, get a 4-barrel Redline manifold (see Rare Spares), and a rebuilt Holley carb to suit (Pro-Action in SA is cheapest), spending the balance on dyno tuning the carb. Maybe crawl the swap meets for Clevo roller rockers. (If you plan to fit woller wockers, you need to machine the head before installing.)
Cheers, Adam.
A
Anonymous
Guest
hmmmm, 2 grand. Depends if you want go fast bits or asthetics.
Engine mods.
-If you havent already got one, an exhaust (2.5 or 2.25 ") to go with the exctractors.
-Cold air intake.
-Cam, Lifter job (as Addo said)
-Maybe a Head Job (port 'n' polish)
I think that should leave just under 2k with a bit of change in hand.
OR, you could keep saving, and turbo it later down the track.
PS . Addo, when he states "Thermo's" i think he is refering to thermo fans.
-Mike.
Engine mods.
-If you havent already got one, an exhaust (2.5 or 2.25 ") to go with the exctractors.
-Cold air intake.
-Cam, Lifter job (as Addo said)
-Maybe a Head Job
(port 'n' polish)I think that should leave just under 2k with a bit of change in hand.
OR, you could keep saving, and turbo it later down the track.
PS . Addo, when he states "Thermo's" i think he is refering to thermo fans.
-Mike.
Well if I had two grand to spend on a car, I'd end up spending #3,000 
A
Anonymous
Guest
4,000 for sure.
It's always doubles here in my world.
It's always doubles here in my world.
hmmm $2000 bucks ....ive had my engine done so id start with an electric
waterpump ,twin 10" electric fans,a day on the dyno, and some new mags
or blow the lot on a new paint.or 3 dirty girls for a night in the back of the
falcon wagon (if the missus ever lets me out)and a suitcase resembling
something out of "fear & lothing in las vegas"
cheers dave 67xr6
waterpump ,twin 10" electric fans,a day on the dyno, and some new mags
or blow the lot on a new paint.or 3 dirty girls for a night in the back of the
falcon wagon (if the missus ever lets me out)and a suitcase resembling
something out of "fear & lothing in las vegas"
cheers dave 67xr6
A
Anonymous
Guest
i reckon u should buy as many subs and amps as u can get for $2000......then then get them pointing backwards from the car.
now everytime the subs hit they will shoot u forwards (similar to a space shuttle) delivering awesome performance. (12 second quaters...if playing techno)
I got told this mod by a bloke with a honda CRX, it was aparently "sick" (he told me) so it must be true.
He also had what appeared to be a highly polished milo tin on his exhaust, this must also add performance so i am in the process of polishing my tin now.
seriously though, i would try and find a second hand programable efi system (do u still have efi manifold +injectors etc.?) and spend the rest on having it setup and tuned. this would be a good base for future mods (like a turbo) and be smoother, more efficient, powerfull and generally more pleasurable to drive than any carby.
now everytime the subs hit they will shoot u forwards (similar to a space shuttle) delivering awesome performance. (12 second quaters...if playing techno)
I got told this mod by a bloke with a honda CRX, it was aparently "sick" (he told me) so it must be true.
He also had what appeared to be a highly polished milo tin on his exhaust, this must also add performance so i am in the process of polishing my tin now.
seriously though, i would try and find a second hand programable efi system (do u still have efi manifold +injectors etc.?) and spend the rest on having it setup and tuned. this would be a good base for future mods (like a turbo) and be smoother, more efficient, powerfull and generally more pleasurable to drive than any carby.
A
Anonymous
Guest
85_LTD,
The other thing you should never say to a cop is, "I thought that you had to be in good physical shape to be a cop."
I'd probably sell my falcon, add it to the 2000 and buy a WB Statesman...lol.
ok, but if your car is in very good condition (if not use the 2k to fix it), then you can't go past a bit of top end work. You can get a few performance tricks done to the head (port it, mill it down, stiffer springs, get it on a flow bench to see how good it is...). And to complement it, a new cam, and bigger carb.
I've always thought that's a good starting point.
Cheers,
Dylan
The other thing you should never say to a cop is, "I thought that you had to be in good physical shape to be a cop."
I'd probably sell my falcon, add it to the 2000 and buy a WB Statesman...lol.
ok, but if your car is in very good condition (if not use the 2k to fix it), then you can't go past a bit of top end work. You can get a few performance tricks done to the head (port it, mill it down, stiffer springs, get it on a flow bench to see how good it is...). And to complement it, a new cam, and bigger carb.
I've always thought that's a good starting point.
Cheers,
Dylan
A
Anonymous
Guest
if i had 2000 i d get a heap of spray equipment for my old mans compressor, flat black 2 pak, a sandblaster, XF front with XR8 style lights, chrome wire rims from the Quokka and a lowering kit and "mad maxify" it.
A
Anonymous
Guest
hmmmm 2000 ay, well id probably go out on a night on tha piss, and with whats left it would probably get about 2 weeks worth of petrol!!! (yes i like to drink) hahahahah ive learnt never take any muney youve been saving into northbridge! haha
but smythee im in for those xr twin lights first!! dam its hard finding those second hand!! grrr
party harty
-matt
but smythee im in for those xr twin lights first!! dam its hard finding those second hand!! grrr
party harty
-matt
A
Anonymous
Guest
some copy cat bastard has fitted them to a laser i see it around uni, XR4?
A
Anonymous
Guest
i think its the TX3 laser and tX5 telstar have the twin lights too... i think
So long as its got EFI in it, I'd spend the money on all the things needed to fit a wild cam in it. If its BW 35 auto, I'd throw in a Crow cam of about 280 degrees duration, a 2500 rpm stall converter, 3.23:1 diff gears, JP timing gear set, valve springs, a dyno session, and a specialist set up of the autos kickdown. If its C4 auto, then it'll save you a few on set-up, but you'll still need a looser 2500 rpm stall covertor. A 4-spd manual will be just fine without any modifictions.
An article in the 1987 January edition of Wheels had Dick Johnson's development SVO XF Falcon. It ran a 280 cam with no alterations to the injection unit. Kevin Bartlett, in a mid 1990's Street Machine mag, said no injection changes were likely if you were producing no more than 180 horses. Bearing in mind the stock XE had 149, and the XF 164, a cam alone should hit 180 easily. This would give a TE an XR6 -style performance. (220 horses for 3370 pounds is the same as a 180 horse, 2744 pound Cortina). That could be a mid 15 second quarter with an auto. Any spare money should then go to a turbo style prep for a C4 auto box. BW were not renown for strength
An article in the 1987 January edition of Wheels had Dick Johnson's development SVO XF Falcon. It ran a 280 cam with no alterations to the injection unit. Kevin Bartlett, in a mid 1990's Street Machine mag, said no injection changes were likely if you were producing no more than 180 horses. Bearing in mind the stock XE had 149, and the XF 164, a cam alone should hit 180 easily. This would give a TE an XR6 -style performance. (220 horses for 3370 pounds is the same as a 180 horse, 2744 pound Cortina). That could be a mid 15 second quarter with an auto. Any spare money should then go to a turbo style prep for a C4 auto box. BW were not renown for strength
A
Anonymous
Guest
I would be get a set of lowered springs, revalve the shocks or fit Konis with the shortened stroke to keep plenty of travel.
Lower it around 40mm to keep good handling without too much bump steer.
I would then get poly bushes put in everywhere.
Take the rear swaybar off altogether and fit a 24mm front swaybar.
Scout the wreckers and you will find the odd one with springs, bushes and swaybars already done.
I would then do a wheel alignment with around -2° camber, +4.5° caster and 4mm total toe in. Combined with a good set of tyres which you hopefully have this will go round corners like the Cortina should have in the first place.
You will have to drive it round corners accordinly though.
The next thing I would look at is the falcon disk brake conversion for the front although you will be up for new wheels then to which may blow your budget unless you settle for a set of 15" falcon pursuit rims.
Lower it around 40mm to keep good handling without too much bump steer.
I would then get poly bushes put in everywhere.
Take the rear swaybar off altogether and fit a 24mm front swaybar.
Scout the wreckers and you will find the odd one with springs, bushes and swaybars already done.
I would then do a wheel alignment with around -2° camber, +4.5° caster and 4mm total toe in. Combined with a good set of tyres which you hopefully have this will go round corners like the Cortina should have in the first place.
You will have to drive it round corners accordinly though.
The next thing I would look at is the falcon disk brake conversion for the front although you will be up for new wheels then to which may blow your budget unless you settle for a set of 15" falcon pursuit rims.
Some Background
New Zealand Cortinas had optional German V6'S from 1980 to 1984. They came only with the French C3 auto, and had no pullution equipment, and could only do 17.7 second quarters, 180 km/h. There were no Spack options with the 14 inch Alloys and better suspension your Aussie six cyliners TF's had. No ventilated front discs, either.
Mines got a single small IHI turbo, and blows through a stock LPG Impco CA 300 carb. The only problem is the engines done 200,000 km, had 19 owners, and is needing a rebuild. The throttle body is a 2 barrel synchronised Solex, a bit like the awfull Opel 1900 carb. It's dedicated, runs no petrol at all. LPG adaptor is off an XF Falcon 4.1
The one redeeming factor to the 2.3 litre Cologne V6 is the light weight... its only 158 kg for the engine, and 1130 kg's all up. So it doesn't plough at the limit. With 6 pounds of boost, and the stock 9.2:1 compression, theres only about 105 kW at the flywheel, and it only had 84 kw and 183 Nm form the factory. So perhaps its got the same torque as a 3.3 TE6, and the same power as a good stock 4.1. It now runs the American C4 2.8 Mustang gearbox, and the stock 3.45:1 diff gears. Underneath, chassis wise, its a pre 1972 TC Cortina with no good Falcon gear in it at all. Power steering and negative camber are the only advances Ford made over the 14 years they were assembled here.
I've got relatives in England, and I've asked then to bring back some 5 stud Ford Granada ventilated front discs, and P76 style Austin Princess calipers to fix the awfull brakes. One thing I'm looking at, rather than drilling and filling the stock rear end, is fitting a Hilux 4.55:1 LSD and five stud wheels to it. The V6 Explorers ran a Belgium built 5/4-speed auto and the same bell housing patern as my V6, as both engines come from the same engine plant.
I could just drop in an Aussie TE diff, but I want some standout lower gears, and I've never seen a 4.5:1 diff for them. Lowest was 4.1:1. The Explorer gearbox has a huge overdrive, and the little six revs to over 7000 rpm. Its onlt got a 2.36 inch (60mm) stroke, and piston speed is only 2750 feet per second at these revs, so forged pistons are really an over kill.
I have the following plan, and I'd like you guys to comment:-
Plan 1:-Throw in an Explorer 84.3 mm stroke crank, 133.3 mm long Holden XT5 rods, and 30 mm deep (deck to wrist pin) Falcon 5.4 V8 Duratech 220 pistons. They will fit in the block, are only 20 thou or so bigger and take the capacity out to almost 3.3 litres. Then apply a bigger turbo, and more boost.
Plan 2:- Would this be better than just grabbing an early seven bearing 200 XR engine, and adapting the Ohv Alloy head on it, and turboing that ?. I've done some rough calc's, and think the 200 engine, which is 42.2 mm shorter, and likely to be 165 kg's all up, is over 50 kgs lighter than the 4.1 alloy head engine if it has the alloy head fitted.
Would appreciate your comments.
New Zealand Cortinas had optional German V6'S from 1980 to 1984. They came only with the French C3 auto, and had no pullution equipment, and could only do 17.7 second quarters, 180 km/h. There were no Spack options with the 14 inch Alloys and better suspension your Aussie six cyliners TF's had. No ventilated front discs, either.
Mines got a single small IHI turbo, and blows through a stock LPG Impco CA 300 carb. The only problem is the engines done 200,000 km, had 19 owners, and is needing a rebuild. The throttle body is a 2 barrel synchronised Solex, a bit like the awfull Opel 1900 carb. It's dedicated, runs no petrol at all. LPG adaptor is off an XF Falcon 4.1
The one redeeming factor to the 2.3 litre Cologne V6 is the light weight... its only 158 kg for the engine, and 1130 kg's all up. So it doesn't plough at the limit. With 6 pounds of boost, and the stock 9.2:1 compression, theres only about 105 kW at the flywheel, and it only had 84 kw and 183 Nm form the factory. So perhaps its got the same torque as a 3.3 TE6, and the same power as a good stock 4.1. It now runs the American C4 2.8 Mustang gearbox, and the stock 3.45:1 diff gears. Underneath, chassis wise, its a pre 1972 TC Cortina with no good Falcon gear in it at all. Power steering and negative camber are the only advances Ford made over the 14 years they were assembled here.
I've got relatives in England, and I've asked then to bring back some 5 stud Ford Granada ventilated front discs, and P76 style Austin Princess calipers to fix the awfull brakes. One thing I'm looking at, rather than drilling and filling the stock rear end, is fitting a Hilux 4.55:1 LSD and five stud wheels to it. The V6 Explorers ran a Belgium built 5/4-speed auto and the same bell housing patern as my V6, as both engines come from the same engine plant.
I could just drop in an Aussie TE diff, but I want some standout lower gears, and I've never seen a 4.5:1 diff for them. Lowest was 4.1:1. The Explorer gearbox has a huge overdrive, and the little six revs to over 7000 rpm. Its onlt got a 2.36 inch (60mm) stroke, and piston speed is only 2750 feet per second at these revs, so forged pistons are really an over kill.
I have the following plan, and I'd like you guys to comment:-
Plan 1:-Throw in an Explorer 84.3 mm stroke crank, 133.3 mm long Holden XT5 rods, and 30 mm deep (deck to wrist pin) Falcon 5.4 V8 Duratech 220 pistons. They will fit in the block, are only 20 thou or so bigger and take the capacity out to almost 3.3 litres. Then apply a bigger turbo, and more boost.
Plan 2:- Would this be better than just grabbing an early seven bearing 200 XR engine, and adapting the Ohv Alloy head on it, and turboing that ?. I've done some rough calc's, and think the 200 engine, which is 42.2 mm shorter, and likely to be 165 kg's all up, is over 50 kgs lighter than the 4.1 alloy head engine if it has the alloy head fitted.
Would appreciate your comments.
aussie7mains
Famous Member
try this on:-
Get a second hand Wolf 3d so you can get somewhere with the EFI setup you have, say 1200
Get headers if you havent already got them, go to 2.5 inch pipes.
Go to 4v valves springs with Crow retainers, cheaply adds 500rpm.
Keep the EFI cam you have for now.
Sort out other problems.
Forget fancy stuff.
A7M
Get a second hand Wolf 3d so you can get somewhere with the EFI setup you have, say 1200
Get headers if you havent already got them, go to 2.5 inch pipes.
Go to 4v valves springs with Crow retainers, cheaply adds 500rpm.
Keep the EFI cam you have for now.
Sort out other problems.
Forget fancy stuff.
A7M
personaly i would get some cool tools. Get your self a welder if u dont have one, or an aircompresser and some air tools, it will make every thing you do go sooo much faster, or even maybe a plasma cutter who wouldnt want a plasma cutter. that is what i would do and then it will make every thing else u do in the future alot easier
kevin
kevin
8)
1st get the bottom end of my 200 rebuilt and finish porting the Oz head, Get the 450cfm Motorcraft 4 bbl I have rebuilt and installed, C4 with shift kit and 3800rpm stall converter, and get the 3.45:1 rear installed. What was left wouldf go toward a paint job.
1st get the bottom end of my 200 rebuilt and finish porting the Oz head, Get the 450cfm Motorcraft 4 bbl I have rebuilt and installed, C4 with shift kit and 3800rpm stall converter, and get the 3.45:1 rear installed. What was left wouldf go toward a paint job.
