Top-end and Cam Build

Yes it IS!
Nice solution 4 the hose(ele hanger on shock tower).

What's the bracket on passenger's shock?

And that's the "M" head? U had it milled for 2/4v? If so -
I've seen where some (w/o the 'M') ADD material b4 the milling to get
as good a job as the M...
 
The bracket is for the alternator. I had it all off a couple winters ago and I painted it. I had to remove it in order to get the timing cover off.

Yes, This is an "M" head. Maybe tonight I'll mock up the carb setup and snap a pic of it for everyone. It's a quick thing to put together. I've been showing Matt at VI some of my setup as I've progressed and apparently I'm orienting my carb differently than what everyone else does. Maybe that means Faron would actually approve. Maybe not... :LOL: I actually haven't seen him on here for quite some time.
 
Sorta kinda what the final product will look like. I just slapped the cover and carb on for show.

20160928_053126_zpszwcxmrw8.jpg


20160928_053139_zpsslaajqkd.jpg
 
Excellent cr_bobcat and you even have your carb facing the right way too :beer: good luck (y)
 
Beauty part of having just had the dampener off, if comes back off fairly easy. Got it off and then got my head studs all greased up and ready to get torqued down. Too much other stuff going on around here with all the flooding and everything else...
 
stay dry, hopin ur not too close to it all!
radio doesn't give much detail...
 
I'm well away from the river but it's been pretty hairy around here for some folks. River crested at 22 ft which is 10 ft above the "flood level". We're still nowhere near the 31 ft the river hit back in 2008. But at least this time we were prepared and were able to get some of those temporary HESCO walls built. I think I read that we installed 10 miles of the stuff. It's insane.

Anyway, this morning I was able to get the pushrods and rockers installed. I'm really hemming and hawing on whether or not I should get some shorter pushrods. When I adjusted the rockers, I had to back all the adjusters up until they bottomed out and then to take out the slack in the pushrods, I ended up only coming down maybe a thread

One thing I did observe, I must have been running with frozen lifters before. I can fill the lifters move when I press on the pushrod side of the rocker arm. I couldn't get the old ones to budge at all when I installed these things earlier this year.
 
cr_bobcat":2w1e4qcc said:
I'm well away from the river but it's been pretty hairy around here for some folks. River crested at 22 ft which is 10 ft above the "flood level". We're still nowhere near the 31 ft the river hit back in 2008. But at least this time we were prepared and were able to get some of those temporary HESCO walls built. I think I read that we installed 10 miles of the stuff. It's insane.
Click to expand...
Glad to hear THAT.

"…with longer duration cams…"
at what numbers would that B?
Thanks~
 
Chad,
Its a lifter that's made for that purpose. You would use it if, lets say you had an automatic and you couldn't get the engine to idle low enough to get it into gear without undue stress and the duration number would depend on a lot of things your cam designer would know.
 
Bobcat,
A little reminder on the studs. They should not be screwed in so that the taper at the end of the thread ,at the shank of the stud contacts the surface of the block. They should be backed off some and the tops marked so you can see how far they have turned, if any, when torqued down. This is especially important at the front head bolt boss weakened for clearance for the water impeller. As you know it is open to the water jacket. If it screws down and contacts the shoulder of the stud it will act like a wedge and split the block. You want full engagement which you should be able to get and not contact the block. Then you'll probably have to clearance the stud to clear impeller. Its best to use ARP Ultra on the nut end and not on the block end and I'd back the torque off of this one stud nut some. You do not want the studs screwing in on you. Sealer at the front right and just WD40 on the others to keep from rusting. I used to use Loctite red just snugged down overnight then I knew they wouldn't turn but its just too much work to get them out later. This is what I do. You will have to formulate what's best for you. I think we went over before not to overdo the torque on studs nuts. Its not necessary.
 
Hmmm...I may have run them down too far. Should I loosen all the nuts, back up the studs, then re-torque? I wouldn't remove the head so the gasket should be fine. Am I correct in that assumption?

I didn't install the water pump yet. I only ran that stud down until it was flush with the hole, then torqued. I didn't let it protrude at all into the water chamber. That is probably the only stud that is potentially in "right".

When I installed the studs, I used an allen wrench to just lightly bottom them. Now I'm not sure that I bottomed them or if I actually ran that collar all the way down. I would be surprised if the collar actually made it all the way to the block surface. There's a lot of distance to travel from the surface the washer sits on and the block. I doubt that I ran them in enough turns to get there.

I used the supplied ARP lube that came with the stud kit. I only used it on the nut end of the stud and on the washer.
 
It sounds like the way you did it ,I think you will be fine . Do not redo at this point just continue. That right water pump head stud,bolt hole is the one that is fussy, and it sounds like you got that covered. (y)
 
Well, let's see. Since the last update I've gotten the following done:
< balancer taken back off, timing cover pulled, oil slinger removed, cover and balancer reinstalled and torqued
< new fuel pump installed, including filter in front of pump
< alternator installed
< stock exhaust reattached

I have the water pump all lined up to go on next. That should be a snap to get in once I manage to find my thread protectant again. It's around here somewhere....

I think I'm really close to firing her up. This has taken forever. If I only could manage to get a few continuous hours to work on her, I'd have it done. Oh well. It is what it is....
 
just remember that breaking the new cam requires at least 20minutes run time with the engine rpms above 2000. do not let the engine idle during this time. if there are issues, like leaks and so forth, shut the engine down and repair the issue, then go back to the break in period. the nice thing is that break in is cumulatie, so you dont have to restart the lock each time.
 
As always, if it ain't one thing it's another. Tried putting in the CI billet t-stat. No dice. I couldn't fit it in due to interference with the water pump pulley. I'm just going to space it back using some washers. Oh, and the screw bosses are shorter so I've got to snag some new screws to tighten the thing down. The one I had in there before would bottom out before i could actually get the housing tightened down. :banghead:

Am I ok by shimming the pully out? It doesn't look like it will adversely affect the belt geometry.
 
it depends on how much you need to shim the pulley out. a few .000" of an inch is fine. perhaps even as much as a tenth of an inch at most. beyond that you start running into belt alignment issues.
 
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