pcv for 226

48 F3 Joe

Active member
Has anyone installed a pcv on their 226? Just trying to keep the fumes down and oil ff the fame. Thinking of using a fixed orifice type of setup.

Joe
 
The PCV Systems are rarely installed on the early Flathead engines of any brand, this doesn't mean it can't be done though and its a good Idea as it has good befits for any engine in my OPIN. There are no Kits that I know of made for these Flathead Six's so you will need to acquire the right early PCV Parts and maybe make or Mod some of them to fit your engine. To my knowledge the first Ford PCV systems were installed by Ford on the 1961 models almost immediately there after many aftermarket kits were than made as it wasn't long before Calif. required them to be installed on all OHV engines. To install a system on your Six watch this Video of a 144 small ford Six showing its parts for clues on how you could adapt these same parts onto your Flathead Six. Best of luck

Here is a short Video in which you can see all the early Original Ford Six PCV parts looked like and how they were connected on a 1962 144 Six. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1CLZVlzEHzKFEYm9xI_awlyUFWL-GGtyo
 
Well sorry about that Joe, there used to be a Video on that link the last time I looked with the engine running and showing the PCV hook up under the Carb good. Anyway you can also see the PVC Hook up parts below the Carb in this picture in top row 4th to the right #IMG_0126.HEIC note that it dose have a Clear Plastic Tube being used in place of the Original Rubber Hose. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1CLZVlzEHzKFEYm9xI_awlyUFWL-GGtyo
Also see in the 8th row the picture #IMG_3189.JPG has a good shot of all those parts assembled on the 144 Engine in the car. And also see the hook up to where the old Road Draft tube would have went in the pre PCV engines this is picture #IMG_3278.JPG on very bottom row, this hook up is on the left side of the Distributor also note that its using a non Stock Red Water Hose in place of the as the Original Rubber Hose. Your engine may likely have these hook ups in a little different location. If you want to post some picture of your engine I could be more accurate. Edited
 
48 F3 Joe, I saw your post and am curious about what has happened since. I am using a new account due to a problem logging in with my old account - my old handle here is mystere.

I have my late father's 1959 Ford F100 with the OHV 223 six. It's always been a California truck in Orange County California. In 1966, for registration renewal for 1967, California required it be retrofitted with a "state approved" PCV Valve retrofit kit.

The state required the retrofit be done at a "state approved" garage, forbidding dealers to retrofit the vehicles with factory PCV valves used on 1961 and later California vehicles on any vehicle not originally fitted at the factory with a PCV Valve. There is a PCV Valve still in production that was used on all early 60s Ford vehicles. Standard Motor Parts V100 pcv valves are OEM replacements used on all Ford 6 cylinder and V8 engines starting in 1961 on California models and 1963 on all models. Rambler 6 cylinder models (OHV and L Head), Chevrolet and a few other makes use that same PCV Valve. I have a California model 1962 Rambler Classic 6 cylinder sedan with the mandatory factory PCV Valve setup. It has been in my family since new, and still has the original factory PCV Valve. I've cleaned it with a carburetor spray while doing oil changes. It is connected to a vacuum port on the intake manifold under the carburetor. It uses a 90° brass fitting adapter to tap into the intake manifold.

PCV Valve Ford F100 223 6 Rambler 196 6 Engines.jpg

NAPA sells this part under their brand name as well. This is the proper one that will work with the older flathead as well. When California mandated retrofitting pre 1961 vehicles with retrofit kits, they went back to requiring retrofits on vehicles from post WW2 onwards. When retrofitting this PCV Valve onto your flat head, you will probably find a spare vacuum port that has a brass plug bolt likely near the carburetor intake.

Most of the early PCV Valve setups used 1/2 inch heater hose to seal the crankcase. The retrofit kits for the OHV engines had rubber plugs to close off the road draft tube, and a universal PCV Valve punched into the valve cover, routing a hose to a vacuum port adapter provided with the kit. In your situation, you probably will need to fit a 1/2" diameter hose fitting onto the end of your draft tube and find a brass fitting to screw into a spare vacuum port on the cylinder flat head, preferably near the carburetor intake. That PCV Valve pictured is a factory installed unit commonly used by Ford, AMC, Studebaker and GM vehicles. I researched the part to see what other vehicles it fit, when I found it as a factory installed unit for my 1962 Rambler Classic OHV 6 cylinder engine. I found out it was used on Ford 6 & V8 engines starting on 1961 models when California mandated PCV Valves be fitted at the factory on vehicles being sold brand new in California starting in September 1960.
 
I found a rubber grommet that fit into the factory draft tube. The lower half of this tube was missing. Put the pcv in this grommet. It's from some kind of GM V6 which has a small hole in it, (fixed orifice) Ran a copper tube to a vacuum port for the wipers below the carb. I'm going with electric wipers. The oil fill cap has a white pcv type of filter mesh that I oiled to filter out dust. Only run in the shop. does have a slight vacuum at the oil fill tube. Idle mixture screw only changed about 1/8 turn richer. should work just fine.

Joe
 
I found a rubber grommet that fit into the factory draft tube. The lower half of this tube was missing. Put the pcv in this grommet. It's from some kind of GM V6 which has a small hole in it, (fixed orifice) Ran a copper tube to a vacuum port for the wipers below the carb. I'm going with electric wipers. The oil fill cap has a white pcv type of filter mesh that I oiled to filter out dust. Only run in the shop. does have a slight vacuum at the oil fill tube. Idle mixture screw only changed about 1/8 turn richer. should work just fine.

Joe
What you describe is exactly how I remember the first PCV systems being implemented. A rubber grommet with a PCV valve in the former draft tube hole along with a vented oil filler cap. You won't feel a lot of vacuum at the cap. We used to have a tester which you placed over the oil fill opening and the draft from the PCV system would pull a small ball around a scale to indicate the amount of flow.

Lou Manglass
 
Should work. But the engine is out now and cab is off for frame clean up and paint. Hopefully on the road this summer.

Joe
 
Should work. But the engine is out now and cab is off for frame clean up and paint. Hopefully on the road this summer.

Joe
Joe- I've been following this thread. I've got 2 flat-head Ramblers with the vent tube. . the only concern that comes to mind, if I'm picturing your install correctly, is if the PCV valve is facing down, with the vent-tube above and the manifold hose below the valve. There will need to be some sort of liquid oil drain-off somewhere before the valve. If not, over time the valve may pull liquid oil into the intake intermittently.
 
The valve side cover has a oil separator mesh just before the road draft tube. Should keep doing its job. There isn't a high enough volume of air flow to pull any extra oil into this tube. Any oil that would collect will be drawn through and shouldn't be a problem. You could run a hose and mount the valve up higher, but that is when oil would collect in the bottom of the hose.

Joe
 
The valve side cover has a oil separator mesh just before the road draft tube. Should keep doing its job. There isn't a high enough volume of air flow to pull any extra oil into this tube. Any oil that would collect will be drawn through and shouldn't be a problem. You could run a hose and mount the valve up higher, but that is when oil would collect in the bottom of the hose.

Joe
 
You could install a pcv in the oil fill tube. The oil fill cap would need to seal tight. You would need to put some type of filter on or in the road draft tube . This would be another alternative to what I did.

Good luck, Joe
 
I think if that is the only way to draw air it would help but I always heard it's better to have the valve cover be in inlet side of the system and the crank case be the out. Keep all the fumes away from the upper engine components.

I could be wrong here tho.
 
I think if that is the only way to draw air it would help but I always heard it's better to have the valve cover be in inlet side of the system and the crank case be the out. Keep all the fumes away from the upper engine components.

I could be wrong here tho.
Most automotive engines pull fresh air in one end, and vapors out from the other end of the valve cover, on top of the engine in OHV. All vapors have to come to the very top of the engine to be removed. Dealing with a flathead, the only options are the valve cover, which is well down on the side of the engine, where the draft tube is now, or the pipe where the oil is added (which is also the dipstick), which ends in the crankcase.
You could install a pcv in the oil fill tube. The oil fill cap would need to seal tight. You would need to put some type of filter on or in the road draft tube . This would be another alternative to what I did.
This is not as favorable an option by physics. The natural heat of the vapor causes it to rise, so fresh cooler air into the crankcase, PCV to manifold from the current draft tube where the vapor is naturally migrating is better IMO. Plus the fill tube has the mesh screen already, which is sufficient for fresh air intake unless in a high-dust environment.
 
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