Paxton Supercharger.

Frank said:
Wayne, really glad for the success of the mod! It's encouraging to see one complete and running in a "normal" street car. So many turbo builds are after big numbers, your build is the level I'd be interested in, so appreciate the thread.
What is your peak boost?
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I just found the brass fittings yesterday to install my boost gauge. Of all places it was a lumber supply/ hardware store .

I'm not expecting a lot that thing is only advertised for 6 to 8 psi I think . I guess I go at things all wrong sometimes I might have 3 or 4 different changes happening at the same time so something I need/ want to do might get kicked on down the road .
I've been kicking that cam & alumn head down that I get around to it road for maybe 4 years now .
 
aussie7mains said:
Sounds similar to my blown crossflow in operation, I probably have more low rpm torque. Your intake temp of 60c is about what you would expect. If your EFI was upstream of your blower it could be lower due to evaporation of the petrol. 60 isnt that high, sometimes the underbonnet temps could get to that.
Click to expand...
The eng never changed in the performance level . Took me a bit to determine what the yellow was all about because it's never lit up there before . That fuel isn't going to cool much if any since it's efi & mostley is absorbing heat thru the fuel lines because little is in the Sniper body . So maybe I could do something about the fuel lines .
Maybe I address that later ,either before or after i maybe do an intercooler for the charge air .
Ordered a few parts from Vintage inline yesterday to change a couple of situations on the eng so I can install my alumn valve cover I hope .
 
Great to hear your positive experience! When I ran my fuel lines for the efi this is what I used to keep the lines cool.

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the SC'd Maverick 250 uses boost gauges on charge pipe before carb and one on manifold vac/boost. The charge pipe air is mostly continuously blown off and is dependent on throttle plate position. Manifold boost pressure builds linearly ref'd to RPM - at WOT, no spool just available boost up thru RPM's until I pedal it @ 10 lbs... ... adjustable blow off valve spring on charge pipe will allow some measure of safety from over-boosting.



with mod'd 2300 350 carb, AFR's is a little rich 10/11's at idle @ 12's at NA cruise until boost then hits closer to 13-14 ...
,
.

hav e fun
 
powerband said:
the SC'd Maverick 250 uses boost gauges on charge pipe before carb and one on manifold vac/boost. The charge pipe air is mostly continuously blown off and is dependent on throttle plate position. Manifold boost pressure builds linearly ref'd to RPM - at WOT, no spool just available boost up thru RPM's until I pedal it @ 10 lbs... ... adjustable blow off valve spring on charge pipe will allow some measure of safety from over-boosting.



with mod'd 2300 350 carb, AFR's is a little rich 10/11's at idle @ 12's at NA cruise until boost then hits closer to 13-14 ...
,
.

hav e fun
Click to expand...
Not sure what's going on with the boost . I know I got some . I just got the line & gauge in with it dangling under the dash after running a service call today . Teed it into the manifold vaccumn line over to the brake booster. Shows about 18to 20 inches at idle kick the rpm's up & it hits close to the boost part on the gauge then starts pulling a vaccumn even if I keep the rpm up .
I guess I'll make something to mount the gauge in later & see what I find . I'm too tired to fool with it right now .
 
Wayne clark said:
Not sure what's going on with the boost . I know I got some . I just got the line & gauge in with it dangling under the dash after running a service call today . Teed it into the manifold vaccumn line over to the brake booster. Shows about 18to 20 inches at idle kick the rpm's up & it hits close to the boost part on the gauge then starts pulling a vaccumn even if I keep the rpm up .
I guess I'll make something to mount the gauge in later & see what I find . I'm too tired to fool with it right now .
Click to expand...
Not going to boost without a load. No vacuum @ no-load= a runaway engine.
 
I have a manifold pressure gauge from a WW2 bomber, its has two needles, Ive connected one to the upstream side of the blower and one to downstream side (intake manifold). I have a draw through system. I see about 15inches a vacuum at idle, kicking the throttle will see this drop, but never above atmospheric (30), the only way to get boost is under load, then its is almost entirely dependent on throttle position, it does increase with rising RPM, to about 65inches, this is as high as Ive seen. I can see the DP across the blower, and its has a DP even at very small throttle openings and any RPM, this is interesting to watch. In the case of a centrifugal compressor I would doubt you will se anything at the manifold itself unless the throttle is well open, because you are blow through any pressure from the blower will "blow off" until the throttle is open, and you might not see anything above atmosphere until RPM is up.
 
7mains' sums it up nicely :

"In the case of a centrifugal compressor I would doubt you will se anything at the manifold itself unless the throttle is well open, because you are blow through any pressure from the blower will "blow off" until the throttle is open, and you might not see anything above atmosphere until RPM is up."

Blow-Thru SC system 'blow off valve' in charge pipe between compressor and Carb/TB is actutated by manifold vacuum. As long as manifold vacuum is maintained - typically from idle to cruise, compressed air is diverted out BOV. With throttle opened - BOV linearly closes with manifold transition to no vacuum (WOT) and then positive boost...

Pressure in charge pipe remains just fluctuating off atmosphere until throttle position/manifold vac permits BOV to close - then we go...

... WOT above @ 2500 RPM , with a frenetic rush, the 250 screams toward maximum boost - boost and AFR gauges provide assurance as road ahead disappears fast.


.

:cool:
 
powerband said:
7mains' sums it up nicely :

"In the case of a centrifugal compressor I would doubt you will se anything at the manifold itself unless the throttle is well open, because you are blow through any pressure from the blower will "blow off" until the throttle is open, and you might not see anything above atmosphere until RPM is up."

Blow-Thru SC system 'blow off valve' in charge pipe between compressor and Carb/TB is actutated by manifold vacuum. As long as manifold vacuum is maintained - typically from idle to cruise, compressed air is diverted out BOV. With throttle opened - BOV linearly closes with manifold transition to no vacuum (WOT) and then positive boost...

Pressure in charge pipe remains just fluctuating off atmosphere until throttle position/manifold vac permits BOV to close - then we go...

... WOT above @ 2500 RPM , with a frenetic rush, the 250 screams toward maximum boost - boost and AFR gauges provide assurance as road ahead disappears fast.


.

:cool:
Click to expand...
I dont have a blow off, I have a blower Bypass, this is held open by vacuum, when that drops it closes and boost straight away. If I close the bypass manually I get blower surge, which i find annoying. I cannot use a blow off, as i would be discharging a flammable mixture overboard, not a good idea. This works very well for me, it operates very smoothly, you would not know it was blown to drive it.
 
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Frank said:
Wayne, really glad for the success of the mod! It's encouraging to see one complete and running in a "normal" street car. So many turbo builds are after big numbers, your build is the level I'd be interested in, so appreciate the thread.
What is your peak boost?
Click to expand...
Sorry Frank I just came back to this post & was reading thru ir. So far I've only seen about 3 psi of boost . & that was before I installed the little pop off set up to protect the modulator valve. Which I guess it really needed because when I stood on it it had a few things happen . One was the vaccumn line blew off the modulator valve . I found that when I replaced the modulator valve.
 
Wayne, I’ve gone through this thread a couple times and I apologize if I missed it, but how did you attach the crank pulley and was it a V-pulley or did you use a 6-rib for the drive?

And could you describe the SC mount a bit? Did you use the P/S mounting boss on the block? And where else did you attach the bracing?

I really like the concept and am getting my rebuilt/upgraded 200 back in my ‘65 Falcon (slowly) with a base unit Holley 2300 and hyperspark distributor on a machined 2V carb pad. I’d like to go with a power adder, but only have cast pistons in the rebuild so I can’t go with much boost. The Paxton you installed looks like the ticket.
 
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Skiddriver said:
Wayne, I’ve gone through this thread a couple times and I apologize if I missed it, but how did you attach the crank pulley and was it a V-pulley or did you use a 6-rib for the drive?

And could you describe the SC mount a bit? Did you use the P/S mounting boss on the block? And where else did you attach the bracing?

I really like the concept and am getting my rebuilt/upgraded 200 back in my ‘65 Falcon (slowly) with a base unit Holley 2300 and hyperspark distributor on a machined 2V carb pad. I’d like to go with a power adder, but only have cast pistons in the rebuild so I can’t go with much boost. The Paxton you installed looks like the ticket.
Click to expand...
Whoops! Ignore the question re: pulley type. Looked at the pictures for the 20th time and finally saw.

Still interested in the other info if you wouldn’t mind sharing.
 
Skiddriver said:
Whoops! Ignore the question re: pulley type. Looked at the pictures for the 20th time and finally saw.

Still interested in the other info if you wouldn’t mind sharing.
Click to expand...
Hey man I just seen your post .
I purchased a rebuilt SN 89 Paxton off E bay from a Ford raceing team in Texas.
I contacted Paradise Wheels & purchased the install kit ( I think that's what they call it ) .
The kit consists of the crank pulley , the mounting plate for the Paxton, a short piece of charge hose & the air filter with the parts needed to connect it onto the Paxton . Also it has a copy of the install instructions that Paxton supplied when they sold this set up in 1960 for the Falcon's & Comet's.
There are a couple of brackets that are not supplied but they are easiley fabbed up from some small flat stock bar metal .
The drive pulley replaces your stock damper & has 1 pulley to drive your water pump & alt . I forgot the kit also includes the big v belt to drive the Paxton . The mounting plate is attached to the eng by one of the t stat houseing bolts & that's it other than the 2 braces. 1 drops off the Paxton & is bolted onto the bottom bolt om the timing cover . The other brace attaches to the Paxton & runs back to 1 of the motor mount bolts into the block .
The idler pulley is an assembley that's attached to the mounting plate& it comes as part of the kit .

Honestley it was one of the easiest things I've put on my car bar none

If your thinking about one Paradise wheels sells the complete setup for about $3600.00. . I think the Paxton they sell with the kit is a SN60 same as the original . I saved some serious money buying my Paxton separately .

So far on my bone stock small log headed 200 it's been great . I did'nt have to change any of the settings on my Sniper . I have only seen about 3 or 4 psi of the 6 to 8 psi of boost its rated for but man what a difference in how that 200 runs now . Pulls like a v8 & runs like there ain't no stopping it on the open road .

You might could make something up but from my experience it's not worth the effort just buy the kit & be done or piece meal ir like I did .
One word of caution if you buy a Paxton online try to buy it thru Ebay that way if it's not what it's supposed to be your covered by their money back guarantee. My first one was allmost a RIP off from the seller .

My 200 is as stock as yours ( even more so with the small log head ) so you should have no problems running it .

I'm kind of worried about what I might encounter when I put my Classic Inline gead om sine the chambers are only 46 cc . But the thing has been fulley ported so maybe it will be a non issue .
I know you probaly about fell out when I told you that cost for the kit but that thing is worth every penny .
You won't get the power like a turbo but it don't come with all the hassle like a turbo .
If you have an auto trans get a pop off valve kit from Transgo to protect the modulator valve.

Good luck . If you want any more info hit me up .
 
Wayne,

Thanks for your detailed answer. It was exactly what I wanted to know.

I think I have about six months in refurbishing my Falcon to skulk about and find a Paxton. I’ve been on the Paradise website and saw the cost for their V8 kits, so I’m over the sticker shock. If I’d wanted to save money I guess I should have scrapped the 6 cylinder Falcon and got one with a V8. 😁

This really feels like the answer to my desire for a power adder. When I get the engine in and running NA it will be time for the Paxton.

Thanks again. I’ll certainly get in touch with more questions. Congrats on your install. It looks/sounds great.

Travis
 
Well I reread thru this post & thought I post an up date since I have gotten in a little drive time with the Paxton .
Keep in mind every thing i have did to my vert is on a bone stock 200 6 with a small log head .
First thing i say is if you have a small six & want more power & performace out the gate you should invest in a 2300 Sniper ,an intank Holley efi fuel pump & the Vintage Inline 2x1 adapter.
I ran this setup useing my stock points dist thru an MSD 6AL box with the o2 bung cobbled on my stock oem single exhaust system .
Tremendous difference in the car . The down side is it ain't cheap .

Within a couple of months i added a split header & 2. 1/4" dual exhaust system . And a Dura Spark dist .Some power added but not nearley like the Sniper but man sound wise, off the chart . Sounds like a sbf v8 now.
Next up after about 3----4 years or so i added the Holley Hyper Spark for the ability to have the Sniper control the timeing plus it gave me the ability to plug in my timeing gased on my driveing . Crank,idle,cruise & wot . I've checked those setting & how they change based on the driveing & from the handheld they advance & retard exactley as i have them plugged in .
Last July i think I ,installed a Paxton SN89 supercharger on it useing the install kit from Paradise Wheels .
Haveing the parts installed on the eng as i did made putting the Paxton on as a power adder the easiest install out of every thing i did to the eng .
Doing these things to a small 6 in decent condition is probably the easiest thing you can do for a significant jump in your power & performance.

Would I do it again ? All I can say is HELL YES.
If your thinking about doing something similar I got to tell you IT AIN'T CHEAP . I could have purchased a pretty hot v8 sbf & converted the car over to a v8 with money left over for what I wound up spending .
But with all the mods to the car over all suspension wise it has been money well spent . The car handles superb & runs like you can't believe set up like it is .
I've went down that convert to a v8 road too many time in the nearley 55 years I've been fooling with mostley Ford cars .
Sorry about all the pictures but for some reason my service to this forumn & an other Mustang site is all most non exist at home the last 4 or 5 months . So I try to make the most of it when I'm out & have service .
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