Mallory Dual Point Distributor ZC313A

Good deal! Did you find a source for replacement points?
Not as of yet. The rebuilder said the original points were in great condition. He gave me a second part#24831 for points but they are original Mallory's that are going for way to much money on e-bay. The distributors deliver date was changed to today, so once I get it I am going to compare the load-o-matic points with the Mallory's.
 
So the distributor is installed, but I am currently running 25 degrees+ at idle. I have no more room to turn the distributor to retard the timing. I took the distributor out and put it back again to be sure I wasn't a tooth off. I am thinking I may need to put heavier springs in it.
 
So the distributor is installed, but I am currently running 25 degrees+ at idle. I have no more room to turn the distributor to retard the timing. I took the distributor out and put it back again to be sure I wasn't a tooth off. I am thinking I may need to put heavier springs in it.
There's no "right" position of the distributor relative to the block. Install it in any position and put the plug wires on the corresponding tower. . For example, most have the vacuum advance pointing rearward on a 300. But it can point forward or any where in between, so long as #1 wire is at #1 firing position. I recently turned a distributor 180* from it's factory position to gain better access to the points. They were on the bottom, hard to see. Now on top. Moved the plug wires to match.
There shouldn't be any centrifugal action at idle.
 
There's no "right" position of the distributor relative to the block. Install it in any position and put the plug wires on the corresponding tower. . For example, most have the vacuum advance pointing rearward on a 300. But it can point forward or any where in between, so long as #1 wire is at #1 firing position. I recently turned a distributor 180* from it's factory position to gain better access to the points. They were on the bottom, hard to see. Now on top. Moved the plug wires to match.
There shouldn't be any centrifugal action at idle.
Thanks Frank. That is the path I was going down. I am going to experiment tonight.
 
So.... Still having some issues. I set the motor to TDC on cylinder #1. Pulled the distributor, to try and back it off a tooth, and give myself more room for adjustment when rotating the distributor with the motor running, but going back a whole tooth would put the rotor almost back to cylinder #4. So I pull the wires and moved them back (counterclockwise) one space. This would give me more room for adjustment. Tried to fire the motor up but not even a puff. I am thinking a may need to loosen the screws that hold the cam in place and adjust it from there. I have been re-reading the old Mallory instructions and that is the only thing I have not tried yet.
 
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So.... Still having some issues. I set the motor to TDC on cylinder #1. Pulled the distributor, to try and back it off a tooth, and give myself more room for adjustment when rotating the distributor with the motor running, but going back a whole tooth would put the rotor almost back to cylinder #4. So I pull the wires and moved them back (counterclockwise) one space. This would give me more room for adjustment. Tried to fire the motor up but not even a puff. I am thinking a may need to loosen the screws that hold the cam in place and adjust it from there. I have been re-reading the old Mallory instructions and that is the only thing I have not tried yet.
maybe you have a unique situation, but we're still not on the same page. What I'm saying above is- leave the distributor in the block, the gears are not part of the equation. Just rotate the distributor with it installed and engaged in the cam to whatever position you want it. Do this with the engine on #1 firing cycle. TDC or close. Then tweak it till the rotor is on a cap contact. Whatever one that is, that's your new #1. Install the rest of the wires from that starting point as #1, fire it up and fine-tune the base timing.
 
Sickboy49 to go a bit farther with the distributor reclocking: with points the base timing can be set accurately with the engine off. My preferred method.
First rotate the engine until the damper pointer is pointing to your desired base timing mark. This will be to the left of the TDC point looking down at it from the front. (be sure it's the compression cycle of #1). Once you have the body of the distributor near where you want it, take a 12v test light and attach the clip to ground. Turn the key on to put power to the ignition. Put the testlight probe on the negative coil post. If the test light is off, the points are closed. Now slowly rotate the distributor in the opposite direction of rotor rotation. (Example, the big6 rotates clockwise, so would move the distributor body ccw.) The moment the test light comes on, stop. That is the point of ignition. Lock the dist. down there. Now verify which cap tower the rotor is pointing to, that's now #1.
This static setting will be within a degree of where you had the damper lined up when you look at it with a timing light running. If the T light shows it more advanced than where you set it static, then the centrifugal system is suspect.
 
Sickboy49 to go a bit farther with the distributor reclocking: with points the base timing can be set accurately with the engine off. My preferred method.
First rotate the engine until the damper pointer is pointing to your desired base timing mark. This will be to the left of the TDC point looking down at it from the front. (be sure it's the compression cycle of #1). Once you have the body of the distributor near where you want it, take a 12v test light and attach the clip to ground. Turn the key on to put power to the ignition. Put the testlight probe on the negative coil post. If the test light is off, the points are closed. Now slowly rotate the distributor in the opposite direction of rotor rotation. (Example, the big6 rotates clockwise, so would move the distributor body ccw.) The moment the test light comes on, stop. That is the point of ignition. Lock the dist. down there. Now verify which cap tower the rotor is pointing to, that's now #1.
This static setting will be within a degree of where you had the damper lined up when you look at it with a timing light running. If the T light shows it more advanced than where you set it static, then the centrifugal system is suspect.
Thank you Frank. I will let you know how it goes this weekend.
 
The engine is up and running now. I created a check list from all of your comments. I was 180 degrees off. She runs like a champ now. 14 degrees without the vacuum line connected, and 22 degrees with the vacuum line connected. I still have to do some fine tuning tweaks to the carb which may affect timing, but I will keep you all posted. Thank you all for your help!
 
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