i broke the head/intake manifold...

[Anonymous]

hey i am new to the six performence, i was gonna do a v8 swap in my 66 mustang but you guys inspired me to do somthing different. anyways i was taking my engine apart to do a complete PERFORMENCE re-build. and as i was taking the exhaust manifold off the first bolt if your looking at it as if it was in the car broke because it was rusted on there. now the bolt didnt break the head part around the bolt broke off. is there a way i can fix it or should i get a new one considering im going for performence and if so what one is best. oh and where do you guys get all your parts im having a hard time finding them. thanks

66 sprint 200ci
3spd

 

[Anonymous]

Welcome Ponyrider66:

You have come to the right place for advise. Many wise and experienced 6 cyl owners in here.

Anyway, about your problem.

Ashame the head broke. I know the bolt you are talking about, I have broken many of those. Usually the bolt breaks and you can bore/press it out. However since the head cracked and gave way you are going to have to replace it. There is no known way to fix it that will be permanent.

In replacing the head, you have a few options. First tell us more about your engine. Is it stock? What year are the block and head currently? What carb and distributor are you running.

If it was stock and you wanted to maintain that, you would start looking for a 200 head from around the same time, 65-68. Most of these will be log type heads with 1.5 carb openings and the smaller valve sizes.
This would probably replace your head if it fits the stock year. I would have a three angle valve job done, have hardened seats put in and you could just swap them out.

If you want to upgrade your engine a little. You could do one of many different things....

Replace the 200 head with a US 250 head from a later year and get a larger carb openning and valve size. Match this with a set of headers and either a larger cfm 1bl carb or use an adapter and mount a 2bl carb. This will give you a little boost depending on how much you do to the head.

You could go with the above plan and find a "M" flat-log head, have the intake modified to accept a 2bl carb. and follow the rest of the above plan.

There are other options if you are willing to go out of the US for parts. There is a very feasable Aussie 2v head with seperate intake that is fabulous. And there is also an Argentine head although I think it is rare and hard to get ahold of.


As for parts search online for Mustang Parts, Vintage Mustang Parts, etc... you will turn up dozens of mail order and web based parts suppliers.

Some of the better ones are:

www.mustangsplus.com
www.mustangsunlimited.com
www.californiamustang.com
www.metromustang.com
www.sumittracing.com (Not a lot of 6 cyl parts, but the best dealer anywhere!!!!! I buy from them anytime I can.)

Those are my main dealers. I have gotten everything I have ever put in my Mustang from one of them or local yards and shops.

A good source for the different head options and ideas in general is Mustang Geezers site:
http://www.geocities.com/mustang_man_1966/index.html

 

[CobraSix]

I'm not sure the repair is impossible.

I just bought a 68 block with a 67 head on it. After looking at it I noticed that the last bolt looking at it had actually broken off part of the head and someone welded it back on there. I thought I would have a problem taking the exhaust off but it came off just fine.

For Inline 6 parts...check the for sale items here...also check:

The C word: www.cliffordperformance.com

FOr your head...look here:

www.midcomustang.com

A couple of weeks ago they still have a 65 200 head in their shop torn down to bare head that they were selling. If you call, ask for Pat and tell them Josh (the 65 green vert owner) sent you about the part (no...I have no affiliation except that they did superb work on my car). Shipping will be high.

Also...try local junk yards. Look for Monarchs, Granadas, Mustangs, Mustangs IIs. A lot of fords had the 200 or 250 in it.

Good luck...and welcome.

Slade

 

[StrangeRanger]

Depending on how you stripped the hole out, you may be able to fix it. It sounds as though it's too far gone for a helicoil, but there are also threaded inserts that are much larger in diameter than the existing thread, install with a conventional thread and stake in place. If there's enough of the surrounding metal left these may provide a viable option:

http://www.jergensinc.com/infodir/catal ... pNum=2600A

 

[FrankBoss]

My 170 speacail has the same bolthole broken, I made a wedge shaped peice of steal with a hole in it ....its as good as i could do.

Frank

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Ponyrider66:

Your stock '66 200 likely had a head casting of C5DE-A (Calif Smog Head) or C6DE-B. Look on top of the log just behind the carb pad. If you're matching # for a restoration look for a replacement head with one of these casting numbers.

It is possible to weld cast iron, but it takes a knowledgeable welder and is a relatively involved, time consuming, expensive proposition. If I were in your shoes, I'd keep the stock head in case you want to do a correct restoration someday and upgrade to a better, later head for now.

If you're looking to upgrade for performance look for a head from a '78 and later 200/250. Yes, 200 & 250 heads are identical after the D7BE castings. So, Look for casting # D7XX, D8XX, or E0XX. Any of these castings will have the 1.75" carb hole, hardened valve seats, a 1.75" intake valve and larger intake tract volume. They will also have a larger combustion chamber at 62cc, compared to 52cc for a stock '66 head. To get back to a stock compression ratio you must mill the later heads .050" to reduce chamber volume and another .025 to compensate for the difference between the stock steel shim head gasket, and the about .025" thicker, aftermarket composite type gasket. That's a total of about .075" total mill cut to get back to a stock CR of about 9:1.

Either way, add a three angle valve job and an exhaust port divider now if you ever plan on adding headers. It is so much easier to fit and weld in the divider while the head is off.

If you were to get the head, late model carb and DuraSpark II ignition system from the same donor, you'd be upping your performance considerably. Add a performance exhaust and you'll love it. Also get the cold air intake air cleaner system and cable throttle pedal from the late model donor.

That's probably a lot more than you ever wanted to know. I do go on.

Adios, David