All Small Six First post here. Pulley and head question

This relates to all small sixes
J

jrock

New member
Hey everyone, I have a 200 which I am in the process of tearing down. This is my first teardown and rebuild. Is the crankshaft pulley bolt regular threads or reverse threaded?
Also, on the back end of the motor where the exhaust manifold bolts into the intake/head it is broken off on that very end or corner of it. The exhaust manifold is fine but seems somebody tightened it too much in the past and broke off half of the threaded part of the head. Is this repairable someway or do I have to start searching for a new head?
 
Looking at mine, a thought comes to mind, depending on where it’s broken, to grind a flat surface on the back side of the broken boss and weld in a bolt. The flat spot and bolt head might hold better than just welding in a stud. 🤔🤔. Probably a soft bolt would be better than a grade 8 too. More compatible with the cast iron.
Yes, the threads are standard rotation on the crank pulley/ balancer.
 
Broken exhaust manifold bolts is pretty common. There’s a few ways to attempt to remove such as drilling & EZ out, etc. I’d probably weld a nut on to the broken stud by filling inside of the nut and then removing while the bolt is still hot With an impact gun. As noted above, crank pulley bolts are standard direction.
 
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jrock said:
Hey everyone, I have a 200 which I am in the process of tearing down. This is my first teardown and rebuild. Is the crankshaft pulley bolt regular threads or reverse threaded?
Also, on the back end of the motor where the exhaust manifold bolts into the intake/head it is broken off on that very end or corner of it. The exhaust manifold is fine but seems somebody tightened it too much in the past and broke off half of the threaded part of the head. Is this repairable someway or do I have to start searching for a new head?
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Standard thread 9/16 UNF.
 
Hi. as mentioned, the broken ears are pretty common. Often, the exhaust manifold is warped, and when you go to tighten it, the ear snaps. Any machine shop can flatten a warped manifold on a big belt sander. You will also need a 3 bolt puller to remove the harmonic balancer. Good luck
 
Your first teardown! Great project.
Be systematic--too many people get so excited during the teardown that they misplace parts.
You didn't say your purpose, but pay attention when you remove the valve lifters--If you hope to reuse the valve lifters with that camshaft know that they MUST go back in the same location where they had been. If you change the camshaft, you will need new lifters ( or have the old ones reground) and then they can go in any order. But if your cam is good and the lifters are good, they may be reused--but only as they were originally installed.
Most other parts do not care where they are re-installed---connecting rods and their caps are numbered, and main bearing caps are all numbered making it easy to keep them together.
Use a puller for removing the harmonic balancer--do NOT hammer on it to drive it off.
Good luck on your first teardown.
 
nearGettysburg said:
Your first teardown! Great project.
Be systematic--too many people get so excited during the teardown that they misplace parts.
You didn't say your purpose, but pay attention when you remove the valve lifters--If you hope to reuse the valve lifters with that camshaft know that they MUST go back in the same location where they had been. If you change the camshaft, you will need new lifters ( or have the old ones reground) and then they can go in any order. But if your cam is good and the lifters are good, they may be reused--but only as they were originally installed.
Most other parts do not care where they are re-installed---connecting rods and their caps are numbered, and main bearing caps are all numbered making it easy to keep them together.
Use a puller for removing the harmonic balancer--do NOT hammer on it to drive it off.
Good luck on your first teardown.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that info. It's going pretty good so far. Only broke 2 bolts. Lol. One of the exhaust manifold ones and one of the thermostat cover ones. Felt like they were coming along nicely then snap. The harmonic balancer was real tough to get off. Had to put some heat on it to get it to go. It would not budge with just the puller.
My cylinder walls look really nice from what I can see and I have the pistons to get out, the cam and crank also. I'm about to head to the garage to get started on that. The lifters are being a pain. Guess my magnet isn't strong enough to get them out. I can lift them about a quarter inch and spin them too but just won't come out.
 
B RON CO said:
Hi. as mentioned, the broken ears are pretty common. Often, the exhaust manifold is warped, and when you go to tighten it, the ear snaps. Any machine shop can flatten a warped manifold on a big belt sander. You will also need a 3 bolt puller to remove the harmonic balancer. Good luck
Click to expand...
I'll look into that manifold to see if it's warped. That makes total sense. I see heads going on ebay for like 400.00. Seems pretty high to me?
 
jrock said:
Thanks for that info. It's going pretty good so far. Only broke 2 bolts. Lol. One of the exhaust manifold ones and one of the thermostat cover ones. Felt like they were coming along nicely then snap. The harmonic balancer was real tough to get off. Had to put some heat on it to get it to go. It would not budge with just the puller.
My cylinder walls look really nice from what I can see and I have the pistons to get out, the cam and crank also. I'm about to head to the garage to get started on that. The lifters are being a pain. Guess my magnet isn't strong enough to get them out. I can lift them about a quarter inch and spin them too but just won't come out.
Click to expand...
I have a pick that will hook the top wire retainer in the lifter to pull them out. My magnets didn’t work either 👍
 
jrock said:
Thanks for that info. It's going pretty good so far. Only broke 2 bolts. Lol. One of the exhaust manifold ones and one of the thermostat cover ones. Felt like they were coming along nicely then snap. The harmonic balancer was real tough to get off. Had to put some heat on it to get it to go. It would not budge with just the puller.
My cylinder walls look really nice from what I can see and I have the pistons to get out, the cam and crank also. I'm about to head to the garage to get started on that. The lifters are being a pain. Guess my magnet isn't strong enough to get them out. I can lift them about a quarter inch and spin them too but just won't come out.
Click to expand...
Lifter get stuck by a ring of sludge. Take the sump off, punch them out from below. Dont fret to much about damaging them, they are most likely rooted anyway.
 
aussie7mains said:
Lifter get stuck by a ring of sludge. Take the sump off, punch them out from below. Dont fret to much about damaging them, they are most likely rooted anyway.
Click to expand...
You might also try spraying some of your favorite solvent/ carb cleaner into the lifter galley to help dissolve the cruddy varnish. Tolerances are tight--it doesn't take much. I have also found rotating the lifter to aid in removal.
 
jrock said:
I'll look into that manifold to see if it's warped. That makes total sense. I see heads going on ebay for like 400.00. Seems pretty high to me?
Click to expand...
They also make a tool that helps. What happens is the cast manifold “ curles “. This tool fight the curling shape. Go easy and maybe keep pressure on it for a day or so, then put some more on it if needed. It holds them till they can be installed. 👍
 

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Thanks for all of the great info. I'm glad I joined this site. Got my lifters out finally. Tried bigger magnets, my pick set, PB Blaster. Nothing worked. Then I pushed the lifters all the way down, they were sitting about a 1/4" below the surface. Filled the galley up with brake parts cleaner.
Let soak for about 5 minutes. Grabbed my pick hook and worked them back and forth. Half hour later they were all out. I was going to make a trip to Summit Racing after work tomorrow and buy a tool for this. 23.00 but glad the soaking worked. Now to get the cam out tomorrow and my block is stripped down and off to the machine shop here eventually. Thanks again everyone!
 
mustang6 said:
A common fix for that broken ear is to weld a stud there and use a nut on that one instead of a bolt.
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In addition to the stud and the nut, it's been suggested in the past to use a heavy washer between the nut and the manifold. The idea is that the washer overlaps the manifold and helps clamp better by engaging more of the manifold to compensate for loss of the "ear".
 
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