All Small Six Help with Exhaust Manifold/Headers

This relates to all small sixes

dydaktix

Active member
I have a 62 comet with a 170. Exhaust manifold is cracked, and so would make a good time to go to headers. Looks like the ebay/VI knockoff header would require doing an starter conversion (still have original), as well as bending the shift linkage. I don't wanna do either, because of budget.

Looks like Auto Dynasty and Scott Drake make replacements too. Would any of these fit without those mods?

Otherwise, would this bronco exhaust manifold work?
 
It looks just like the car manifolds. I don't think the truck ones were different, but others here will know better. That Bronco manifold should be pretty much what you have already, but without a crack.
 
I have a 62 comet with a 170. Exhaust manifold is cracked, and so would make a good time to go to headers. Looks like the ebay/VI knockoff header would require doing an starter conversion (still have original), as well as bending the shift linkage. I don't wanna do either, because of budget.

Looks like Auto Dynasty and Scott Drake make replacements too. Would any of these fit without those mods?

Otherwise, would this bronco exhaust manifold work?
Check out the performance from this 200 with 1968 manifold/2" outlet. Sounds good too, at least to me. There are suppliers for the 2" outlet manifold as far as I know. Verify that Bronco manifold is 2".

 
I purchased and installed a MSDS (Martin D. Schneider) American made 6 to 1 header. I had them heat coat the header before they shipped it to me. There's no clearance issue with this header regarding the starter. The header is available in a dual outlet as well. msdsinc.com
 
The original exhaust manifold will handle with ever your small 1 barrel throws at it.
You could have a very restricted stock round muffler with a small outlet that makes your 170 six run like crap.
You could adapt a 2" turbo muffler to your 1-3/4" exhaust
A 2" outlet 68+ exhaust manifold, pipes and a turbo muffler would be an improvement.
Whatever you do buy a 1/4" oil pump drive DUI distributor to replace the Load'O'Matic distributor.
 
I purchased and installed a MSDS (Martin D. Schneider) American made 6 to 1 header. I had them heat coat the header before they shipped it to me. There's no clearance issue with this header regarding the starter. The header is available in a dual outlet as well. msdsinc.com
Do you have a picture of those headers?
 
I use the VI/CI/Speed Daddy or flee bay headers (all seem same) on my 1st gen bronk (a 4WD falcon/stang). No issues almost a bolt-right-up (did I file some bolt hole, push a lill on a pipe? yeah, but seemed custom made). I hada bent6 '80s stang starter but did not use it. Eventually used this:
but NOT for having clearence issues (change of entire ele system).
 
For the price of a header that actually fits without a starter problem a DUI 1/4" drive distributor could be installed which would improve performance more than a header. The vacuum advance could be left disconnected or adjusted while connected to manifold vacuum.
The next affordable performance improvement would be a larger CFM carb (not a header) like a RBS carb. adapted to the small log head.
A 62 Comet carb. won't flow enough CFM to need a header.
A California emission 66 Mustang 200 will blow the doors off a federal emission 66 Mustang 200 with a header.
One another subject: I had a California smog license before I ever got a job in an auto repair shop.
 
That's a nice header. Might fit with ac and clear the alternator. The ebay header needs to be modified so worth the money.
 
any header on these is for looks in my opinion.
4 or 5% increase in HP. Ck extensive testing @
Tech Archive, last 'field' above, top of page.
DUI is known to have some troubles, see the many threads in this forum~
 
any header on these is for looks in my opinion.
4 or 5% increase in HP. Ck extensive testing @
Tech Archive, last 'field' above, top of page.
DUI is known to have some troubles, see the many threads in this forum~
DUI is the only choice for a small six with a 1/4" oil pump drive.
A header will help an early six with a restrictive muffler but so will a 2" turbo muffler adapted to the 1-3/4" early exhaust system.
A distributor with centrifugal advance will provide more WOT power and throttle response than a header.
A 2009 Ranger 16 valve 4 cylinder with 145 net horsepower has an exhaust pipe with a 1.9" diameter.
Not all threads here are based on practical experience.
Some dyno tests were done without a timing light.
I don't have any shaft oiling problem on my China made HEI distributor.
 
"Timing is everything, and without a proper timing curve, every thing else goes out the window." CI Tech Archive
"The "Load-O-Matic" distributors are very slow to provide spark advance when the engine is accelerated under load. The result is soggy acceleration, which the "Load-O-Matic" distributors are notorious for." CI Tech Archive
This is a good argument for dumping the Load'O'matic being the first performance improvement.
(Using Load'O"Matic carb with a 1/4" DUI distributor.)
"At idle, the "Spark Control Valve" is open, sending manifold vacuum to the distributor. As such, the engine will idle just fine. However the "Spark Control Valve" will not provide the proper vacuum signal under load and/or speed. All engines need more advance when cruising, and less to none at wide open throttle. However since you are now using the carb (venturi vacuum advance) and the distributor (mechanical advance) to compensate for speed, the ignition system will receive to much advance at cruise and wide open throttle." CI Tech Archive
A dab of JB Weld in the venturi advance port of a Load"O'Matic carb. would prevent too much advance at cruise and wide open throttle. Manifold vacuum could also be used.
 
Last edited:
X2 Yes for sure! The only other choice there is for those early engines with a 1/4 inch Oil Pump Drive is to do some Mods, like by the Machining of the block's lower Distributor Pilot Hole so you can use the Later Duel Advance Distributors that only makes sense if your also doing an engine rebuild. Or else using the CB Black Box System with the locked out LOM Distributor.
 
"...DUI is the only choice... with a 1/4" oil pump drive..."
"...The only other choice..."
I'd go a 3rd; oem, if not w/original stock 1 in car, a big box model - U both say "this 3rd is no longer available"?
 
DUI is the only choice for people who have to ask, have few if any tools, even less experience + don't want to pay $100.00 an hour labor to have the dist. shaft pilot hole in the block reamed.
To ream the pilot hole the centerlink, under engine brace, oil pan + oil pump would have to be removed.
A new 5/16" oil pump would have be purchased.
The oil pan may not fit back on due to the oil pickup sitting on the taller 5/16" oil pump.
A 65 type oil pickup would be needed.
Chad, what you say doesn't make sense to me. Speak English instead of talking in tongues.
The engine is a 62 Comet 170.
 
Last edited:
("...Speak English..."
I yam)

"...U both say "this 3rd is no longer available"?..."
Ie:
the smaller dizzy bottom equipped is no longer available for the general public, bubba & 70_200?

(ie big box stores or other)?

("...talking in tongues..."
this is finger speak thru brain not the toung, larynx'n lips)
 
Last edited:
Back
Top