All Small Six Favorite Exhaust setup?

[hobbes66]

A lot to consider here.....

John Ha- I read through the entire thread. thank you so much for sharing that link. theres really just to many choices here, im almost overwhelmed lol. I really enjoyed what his final decision was with that flowmaster system.

After reading that thread ive got a question for yall that you may roll your eyes at.

to install a dual outlet header....is that port divider required??. I just assumed that the header gasket that was included with this vintage inline header would need to be cut to turn cylinder 3 and 4 back into one again, as I (like many people) dont have access to that fancy aluminum head that it was meant to fit with.

thank you again guys!

 

[powerband]

AFAIK - Headers require the port divider for the header gasket to seal.

not too complicated and divider is not expensive:

... instructions with original Holley port dividers called for an "interference" fit and grinding cast divider to fit with 'a few thousandths' projecting to hold it fast with the 3/4 port gasket seal . I used this with a 170 and Hooker dual out long tubes with no problems for @ 15 years. Adding compressible material (copper/Al) on divider flange-to-face is another interference option.

.. also drilling thru header and tapping the divider for bolt-thru is option.

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hav e fun

 

[chad]

An off rd (30%) system:
ss CI (last 1 they sold) toa ssY (2 into 1) to ss turbo (dynomax 2.5 ) then thru rocker near pass's rear tire.
(Last not done. Seeking 'thimble' to go thru rocker rather than dyi.) No dynomax turbo in ss @ 2.25 inch.
Whole system ~ 5, 5.5 ft long (vehicle WB = 90 inch). Vehicle in sig below

 

[hobbes66]

thats very interesting. weld vs bolt in.......

does anyone have any passionate opinions on those two options? can welds hold up to years of heating/cooling successfully?

 

[Frank]

thats very interesting. weld vs bolt in.......

does anyone have any passionate opinions on those two options? can welds hold up to years of heating/cooling successfully?

Bolted systems can be removed intact should the need arise. Welded must be cut.
Yes, properly welded seams hold up the life of the system.

 

[hobbes66]

I know zero percent about welding. hmmm.

So when i present this item to a shop to perform the work.....along with installing the rest of this exhaust setup - would you guys have any advise that i should impart on them before they start welding this sucker in? any pearls and words from the wise ? My guess is that this would be the first time many shops have been asked to perform such a job

 

[Frank]

I know zero percent about welding. hmmm.

So when i present this item to a shop to perform the work.....along with installing the rest of this exhaust setup - would you guys have any advise that i should impart on them before they start welding this sucker in? any pearls and words from the wise ? My guess is that this would be the first time many shops have been asked to perform such a job

Yeah, that's a product of this century. Used to be dedicated exhaust shops that could weld up a custom system in no time. I'm not a competent welder either. The trick is getting the whole pipe closed up. Average welding is more tacking here and there. It takes a "pro" to get an exhaust totally sealed. Part of the struggle is accessibility to the full circumference of the pipe when it's installed in the tight spaces under the vehicle. . You may want to shop around, see if a shop in your area specifically says they do exhaust.
I recently took a car I was repairing for a friend to a "normal" repair shop for exhaust work, and it was sub-par. Had to get my son who's a professional welding fabricator to tidy up their work. . Just fyi.
It doesn't have to be welded. Using slip joints, and/or the proper clamps can get one closed up too. In my experience, clamped systems can develop leaks over time, and have to go back in and reposition/tighten clamps. I weld all mine the last 10 years or so, but I live in a no-road-salt place where systems last for many years without rusting up.

 

[powerband]

I used the HOLLEY described 'interference fit' on a project with no header leaks.
.
machinist also 'tacked in' the divider on one, which means very little welding and still needed fitting (grinding) to specific manifold.
.
the HEADER gaskets are different than stock and take into account the divider

Vintage Inlines Header Gasket | Vintage Inlines

Vintage Inlines is pleased to offer our own brand header gaskets. If your constantly blowing out your exhaust/header gasket (see the Alternate image!), try one of these. We're sure you'll be pleased with the results.Prices include shipping.

www.vintageinlines.com

..
haven't got to use the alternate - header side divider set picked up local CL for $75 (another mis-directed V8 swap... )
.
. ..

( BTW - notice raised flange on header to head mating. Quality construction should have this for proper sealing and don't grind off flat (!)

 

[drag-200stang]

The less you weld on a head the better. If the divider is fitted right, a couple tacks is all that you need and if fitted perfect the tacks are not necessary. Buy two so that when you screw up the first one you can get the second one right or you could carry on and say they don't work and rattle.

 

[chad]

i felt likea sculpter after playin w/that thing.
'Weld' or 'U-clamp', benifits/costs to each. Pick,
can not go wrong if done right. The Big Deal, I think,
is the hangers. Solid to body'n system loose between~
I've tacked the top metal to metal of the kind (universal) that
has a long strapa rubber in the middle (a hole every inch or so) &
that lill metal "J" on the end-hooks inta da Uclamp for pipe joining. Burred
under the clamp its secure to not fall off'n the other end I put anywhere I want
(its custom so duz not follow convieniant oem). If U look @ it during my off rd adventures
it seems it doesnt move @ all even tho harsher conditions than a rd rig. To me this is key to a
long, happy, productive (cheep on time/labor AND $) life. My choice in just bout every mod I do~

 

[powerband]

$ .02 more :

Flex Joints especially with wide temps expansion / contraction areas, SS Band clamps for R&R and enough hangers will keep it tight.. .

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hav fun
.

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for serious temps:
. .

 

[aussie7mains]

JFI I run the single 63mm pipe to the bumper, I used the rubber donuts for suspension of the pipes, I made everything myself in the shed. Single Lukey brand (aussie) turbo muffler, works well for normal driving, a little loud for pedaling.

 

[chad]

they (flex pipe/joint) dont seem to last me long (5 yrs?) powerband~

 

[alwill923]

I installed the aussie exhaust manifold. I have not seen any threads on this manifold so maybe I am the first. Each outlet is 1.75 inch and I ran a 2 inch pipe to a turbo muffler before the axle and a resonator after the axle. I just want it quiet! The only thing to watch out for is the two outlets are straight out requiring a quick 90 turned down.

 

[chad]

I've not seen a resonator after a muff.
Common? Why do so (or not do so)?
Thnx~

 

[alwill923]

I read somewhere that a resonator will cancel out any droning from the turbo muffler. It is straight through so what is the harm? If you can convince me it is no good I can take it out.
It was not expensive and just an experiment.

 

[Soldmy66]

A 1/4 wave (or Helmholtz) resonator can be designed to cancel resonance/droning at specific frequencies.

 

[Frank]

I read somewhere that a resonator will cancel out any droning from the turbo muffler. It is straight through so what is the harm? If you can convince me it is no good I can take it out.
It was not expensive and just an experiment.

They work. There's one 18" from the tailpipe on our dodge, factory.

 

[chad]

"...what is the harm?..."
if to me - I C no harm.
Were on most my alfas, fiats, lancias.
I saw they came into merican as well (reciently).

If to me - same Q.
"...
I've not seen a resonator after a muff.
Common? Why do so (or not do so)?
Thnx~..." ANYbody else, too? (wish bubs were here)