keeping the 262

[rlbarton]

With all the assistance and help from you folks, I have had a come to Jesus moment with my old truck. My plans were to drive it the next few years with the 262 and then switch to a 522 stroker biased on the 429 in my garage. I have a c6 trans and a 9 inch next to it. But now with your help the 262 has applied perma-grin to my face every time I drive it. I have made the decision to stay 6 cylinder and have more fun than should be allowed.
This is where I ask for yet more sage advice. I am going to have the motor freshened up this winter and think now is the time for reasonable head work to be done also.I installed Clifford header to it a month ago due to a cracked exhaust manifold and am thinking of adding the intake and duel webber system also. I didn't do it earlier because in my mind without good head work it couldn't take advantage of the intake upgrade. Could a machine shop in the midwest be recommended who can do proper work for the head and motor freshen? Would you have ideas of a torque cam?
I am also going the way of a t5 trans swap with mummert's help . I'm not looking to race, just a dailey driver with good reliable preformance to pull a slide in camper on special occasions. Think grunt from idel to 3500rpm. When not on camper duty it will be going to shows, mabey a walleye trip to Canada, and I'd love to go check out the desert southwest sometime , head back down to Oklahoma for my yearly hog hunt to fill the freezer.
I feel I'm going to get one chance for the right machine shop as 262's don't seem to be falling out of the trees. I thought about going 300, and that would be the smart thing, but the 262 just feels like the right thing to do. Not the smart thing , but the right thing for the truck and for me. After all, it was the truck I learned to drive in, and the good lord willing it will be the truck that hauls my casket to my final resting place.
Thank you in advance.
Rick

 

[64shortbed]

Boy, I'm looking forward to following your build. I've considered the performance intake/exhaust manifolds and two barrel carb with distributor upgrade for a long time. There is a guy at the local cars & coffee that always asks when I'm going to do it, but I'm not ready for the snowball effect that starting mods like that entails. Like you, I get a kick out of running it stock.
Someday....

 

[bubba22349]

Hi rlbarton, here is a link to many of the machine shops that our site members have used there might be one near your area. https://fordsix.com/forums/machine-shops-engine-builders.50/
There is also a very good Machine Shop near me in Flagstaff Az.

In this link is a lot of info on the 215, 223, & 262 engines and the performance upgrades that can be done to these six's. https://fordsix.com/threads/bench-r...ding-a-223-performance-or-turbo-engine.82716/

In this link is a very good performance build up of a 223 Six that also has lots of info. https://fordsix.com/threads/223-performance-build-questions.76750/
Hope this is of some help to you if you need more info let me know, best of luck.

 

[DPB3]

RLB,

I'm new to the forum, I just bought my first vintage ride a few weeks back - '64 F100 - mostly original with the factory 262. Being a novice, I assumed it was a 223 ( seems like a common mistake?). It is indeed the original 262, she rolled off the KC assembly line in Oct '63 - all per the vin #. She runs well but does stall out after driving for 15 min or so. I let it sit for 10-15 min and she will start up again. I think it's something in the fuel delivery, at some point there was an electric fuel pump added. I'm quickly learning how difficult it will be to find bits and pieces for this motor, please share any info you may have re: finding the appropriate parts. Many thanks, PB

 

[bubba22349]

Hi and a big welcome to the Ford Six forum DPB3 from another Arizonan, also congrats on getting your 1964 F100! You are quite fortunate in finding one of the 1964 F100's with a 262 this was the first and only year that those 262 Six's were ever offered in the F100's. To me it sounds like you are having issues with the Fuel Delivery this is often the case with older Cars and Trucks and as well as those that have set unused for many years and there is several items that can cause Fuel Flow problems, I will list all the common things to check.

The main one that can caused this is a Clogged up Fuel filter they are low cost and easy to change out however if it happens fairly often then there is another cause. This will usually be from internal Rust and Crude that's formed in the Fuel Tank this then travels blocking the Fuel Flow of the Tank Pick Up and or clogging up your Fuel Filter. What I used to do with any of my older vehicles that I was going to put back into service was to have the fuel tank cleaned either at a Radiator Shop or at CemStrip. Then I would use the Aircraft Slushing Compound for furl tanks once this was done I never had anymore problems. There is also on the Fuel Pick Up Tube in your Fuel Tank a Sock that with age can deteriorate and then collapse causing the Fuel Pump not to be able to draw any Fuel out of the tank these are not to hard to pull out and check and fix. Many now days will just get a new Fuel Tank it one is available so that also works still I would use the Slushing Compound to help the tank last much longer. Another simple cause is if there is any very old rubber Fuel lines they can be cracked and draw air also stopping the Fuel Pump from pulling fuel. One way you can test all these things out is to disconnect the Fuel Tanks Line at the Fuel Pump and use a small Fuel Safe Gas Can to see if the truck keeps running.

There are a couple of other things that might be of help with the issue your having of the engine stutting off after the 10 to 15 Min. First is to use one of the mid 1970's 200 / 250 / 300 Six Thicker (Emissions Type) Carb Base Gasket's they are much thicker and in this case the thicker the better or you can stack some of the regular Gaskets to make one by using like 3 or 4. Next is even better you can make a Carb Heat Insulator out of Plywood or better yet some Plastic like from a budget cutting board from like Walmart or recycling a piece of an old Cutting board of around 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick. Probably the very best idea is to also run a Fuel return Line back to the Tank this was brought up by our long time site member "xactsy" sometime back. By using one of the Mopar Type Fuel Filter's with the 3 ports this makes the job much easier, and as luck would have it just so happens another long time site member "wcol" also posted about his using this same Method in quite a bit of detail. Check it out here than try it should be the best solution to your hard starting.
https://fordsix.com/threads/hard-st...mance-with-fuel-filter-vapor-seperator.84034/

Best of luck and if in your travels you happen to find another 262 Six short block or complete engine core I have been looking for one for a Drag Race engine build. Edited

 

[rlbarton]

Welcome to the best sight i have ever had the luck to run across. These folks have helped me out quite a bit in my old truck journey , and i'm sure they will be handy for you also. What you have already found is the 262 is an oddball which makes it a struggle to locate info and parts for. I will be happy to help in any way i can. I'm in the same fight right now.
If your 64 is like my 64 f250 it doesn't have a sock in the tank to plug. My tank has a sending unit that does not also function as the fuel pickup, but has a separate hard line that runs downward at an angle from the top of the tank to the bottom and is welded permently in place. this line exits the top of the tank aprox. the 3-4 inches further to the drivers side of the tank from the sending unit. this runs down the side of the tank out the floor of the truck and has a 6 inch piece of rubber line attaching it to the hard line going to the fuel pump. IF this is the case, my tank had to be removed to clean it out . there was rust and debris that kept getting sucked into the hardline at the bottom of the tank. Just a hardline, no sock , but still can get plugged.
my next question would be , have you added any soft line for use with a filter or any soft line that has a loop ln it. The reason i ask is all last summer when driving my truck it would just die at random times and leave me stranded. several tow trips home. no fuel in the filter or carb , i mean dry. I rebuilt the carb several times, ran all new hardline from the tank to the carb, removed and cleaned the tank, everything was new and would still leave me on the side of the road. What i eventually found was i had put a filter right below the floor where the hardline exits the cab to the underside of the truck and in doing so coiled the soft line in thoughts of not creating a bind in the hose. what would happen is when the filter filled with gas the weight of the filter would randomly pinch off the softline shutting off fuel. a summer of frustration for trying to do the right thing. it took me months to find it.
lastly. could it possibly be associated to vaper lock. my 262 has a hardline running from the fuel pump right next to the block, around the head to the carb. this line had a protective wrap around it from the factory but it rots off leaving it exposed to the heat. you might try just running a softline from the pump to the carb giving clearance to all the hot areas or wrap it in heat shield , just to rule that variable out. just a thought.
it could also be a timing issue. if not properly timed the motor will run hot causing issues. If you need help locating parts let me know. my 262 is at the machinist right now and ive gone down a rabbit hole in part location for the last year. if i can help or send you in the right direction i would be pleased to do so.
Rick