Blown crossflow 200

We all know our Govt put an end to LPG with Diesel. They put an end to it with the rebate. The fuel miles per gallon or kilometers per lite was very good with the 6BT Cummins. It just sipped the LPG. I forget now what I was getting but I was very impressed compared to just running Diesel.

When you do plan to check out the Silo art make sure you come by Castlemaine. We have had a wet winter and as yet still waiting for Summer. I have a heater going in December of all things. :unsure:

It would be great to see some photos of you XP.
Ok heres a few morexp ute 077.JPGRIMG0100.JPGRIMG0126.JPGRIMG0160.JPGRIMG0172.JPGRIMG0254.JPG746.JPG748.JPG
 
Your UTE looks really good, I really like that Gauge Cluster. That Intake for the Supercharger is very interesting its a nice compact design. Which rear axle and springs are you using in yours? I see the Disk brakes too. I am hoping to be able to make a deal on a very striped out 1960 Falcon Body Shell to start a new build soon not much of it left but it has some good metal to work with. I was thinking about doing something kind of like that for gauges too.
 
Your UTE looks really good, I really like that Gauge Cluster. That Intake for the Supercharger is very interesting its a nice compact design. Which rear axle and springs are you using in yours? I see the Disk brakes too. I am hoping to be able to make a deal on a very striped out 1960 Falcon Body Shell to start a new build soon not much of it left but it has some good metal to work with. I was thinking about doing something kind of like that for gauges too.
Bubba22349, Its an Autometer gauge set made for hotrods, I added a tacho to match. I modified a 1963 gauge bezel and back housing, I used a piece of 6mm MDF for the face plate and simple cut holes to suit, I made my own wiring loom as the stock one was not much use, I have electric fan, electric water pump, LPG relays etc etc so thought it was easier to start from scratch. The intake I made myself, its has a blower bypass valve made form and old Stromberg carby base with a 40mm throttle blade. The rear axle is our own Borg Warner (early camaro 9 bolt for you) these are very common down here and are quite strong, Ford used them in Falcons right up to 351s, mine was cut down 75mm each side and has custom Hytuff 28spline axles, the diff is a 4 pinion LSD, I run a 3.25:1 ring and pinion. The brakes are vented discs from the 1977 falcon, springs are stock 1965 ute, Ive added the trailing arm to stop axle wind up mainly under brakes. The shocks are locally made Monroes. The front end is mostly stock bits and has the 77 falcon spindles and again vented discs, the master cylinder is an Australian made PBR unit, there is a booster inside the car behind the firewall, I modified a factory pedal assembly to get that to work with the hydraulic clutch I have. xp ute 082.JPGxp ute 088.JPGRIMG0047.JPGRIMG0022.JPGRIMG0179.JPG
 
How do you find the quality of the Davies Craig products?
The fan and water pump have been very good. I couldn't get the digital controller to work correctly, and in the end didn't use it. TRIMG0165.JPGhe water pump has to stay running all the time for the LPG convertor, and the fan i have a switch to use manually, this isnt a problem. the engine does not have a thermostat, just a 20mm restrictor.
 
That is a shame you could not use it. If I was you I would make contact with them as they would only be to happy to help you set it up. The Guys at Davies Craig are very helpful. I have products on my V8 Falcon (XP Sedan) and my F4 Truck (Cummins) both back up pumps. You can contact them on the tech line for help 03 9369 1234 I see John alot at the trade shows and he is always willing to chat about ideas with me. I sell a product called Copperflex so see many applications for pumps and fans.
 
That is a shame you could not use it. If I was you I would make contact with them as they would only be to happy to help you set it up. The Guys at Davies Craig are very helpful. I have products on my V8 Falcon (XP Sedan) and my F4 Truck (Cummins) both back up pumps. You can contact them on the tech line for help 03 9369 1234 I see John alot at the trade shows and he is always willing to chat about ideas with me. I sell a product called Copperflex so see many applications for pumps and fans.
What I had hoped was to set the temperature low enough so the pump would always run, I couldn't get it too do that, perhaps my controller was faulty, its looked like it was. In the end I set it up the simple way. When I was driving it a week or so ago, the fuse for the EWP blew (id fitted a 7a, which was too low, its almost melted the blade fuse before it blew) the pump stopped of course and the first thing I noticed was power dropping off. Anyway I got it home, (just) with the temp on 210f. When I got home the convertor was a block of ice. I just fitted a 20a fuse, let the ice warm up, restarted, all was well. Just confirms how good the system is. I usually dont turn the fan on till the temp reaches 180f (imperial gage), but generally it runs down around 150f, which is OK for LPG engines that dont need heat to vapourize the fuel. Maybe one of the newer EWP controlers would work, but Im happy with it like this. Ive modified the lower tank of the radiator so that it has 3 outlets 1 for the heater, 1 for LPG, and one for the block, the water flow across the core is quite high when you check through the cap, those EWPs are a very good pump, much better then the "agitator" standard on the engine.
 
@7mains what the info on the cranks pictured above? Is one of those currently installed?
Cranks are, on the left a 250 crank I acquired loose with a block, the right hand is a XE falcon 200ci crank, and yes this one is in my car. I have a spare block with another 250 crank, and a spare 200 crank. i also have two spare alloy bug valve heads, and a couple of rod sets 200 and 250, our 200 rods are 6.27 long. These cranks have a bigger main journal than the early 200 six.
 
Hi aussie7nains, I received noticed today that Perry our site IT guy was able to fix both of your old and new accounts into the one original "aussie7mains" account. Look for the email he sent you it will have a password reset, and then you will be good to go again.
 
Hi aussie7nains, I received notice today that Perry our site IT guy was able to fix both your old and new accounts into the one original "aussie7mains" account. Look for the email he sent you it will have a password reset, and then you will be good to go again.
Ok thanks, Ive gone on this morning and reset the passwords. thanks all seems good, I enjoy being on this forum and will stay. Ive been here a while as you know.
 
Just started fitting a Crossflow head to a USA Ford Maverick 250 and your UTE is an inspiration with no hood alteration. Well done.
It would be interesting to document your head installation (with pictures) on the forum.
You may want to start a new thread.

Good Luck.
 
Hi aussie7nains, I have been wondering about these Crossflow Heads for quite sometime. Since you know so much about them could you also tell us about the best of the Aluminum Version Heads and their Casting Numbers? Because of their Heads Cleveland Like Combustion Chambers could you also point out the differences in the Crankshaft, Piston & Rods, Lifters, Rocker Arms, and Camshaft Grinds that they have also used?
 
Ok, the alloy heads started around 1980, there are some differences I dont know of them all, but they are identified by a cast in letter and number on the front LHS under the intake ports. Basicly there are two valve size heads, small valve has 1.75 1.50 valves, big valve heads have 1.85 1.54, the ports all look the same with one exception, early heads dont have a cutout for the fuel injector in the top rhs of the port. There are combustion chamber differences, earlier heads were open chamber like the one I have, later ones have a smaller chamber with a swirl inducing "wing" this was when the engines went to unleaded fuel. The blocks are pretty much all the same, the very latest 1986 ones have a lip seal on the rear main. Pistons vary in that, 200ci engines have flat tops which I use. Later 250s have dished pistons, and unleaded pistons have a canyon on the top to reduce CR, they also have 1mm rings for reduced ring friction, these break from time to time. All pistons were branded as FORD from the fatory, but made by ACL under Repco, which supplied most bearings etc for the engines made here. As you probably know nobody here would bother trying to fit a crossflow head to a pre crossie block, the crossflows are quite common in 250ci less common is the 200ci. The 200 has the longer rod at 6.27inches, the 250 5.88. The later AU SOHC engines went to a long rod with short skirt pistons to help with NVH, and they will rev quite well, Ive had one. Of course the DOHC Barra engine being 4 valve and DOHC revs well, they went up to 192kW in NA form, 310 in turbo form. Barra nad SOHC engiens are bullet proof. The crossflow engines is quite commonly tuned and cam and valve train bits are fairly easy to come by, Crowcams do several in hydraulic and solid, I run a small hydraulic made by Camtech specially for my engine, the stock cams are nothing special, and will generally only run to 4500rpm, I run a 215 @0.050 cam which will run to 5000 easliy, I dont go above that as this is about where my blower reaches its rated speed limit of 15000. Although i know of others that have run them to 21000. Rockers are cleveland sled type, we used mostly sintered iron pivots down here, they seem to be OK to 6000rpm at least, retainers and springs are again crowcams, they have a website. Stock reatiners vary, most are sintered, but some are steel, we dont use them. Lockes are the multi groove ones and are ok, Ive uesd they on higher RPM clevelands by grinding them so they dont allow the valve to rotate, its a cheap fix that seems to work. lifters are the common ford thing so no real issues there. People have used roller cams by using 460 flowers and special tie bars. the best BHP Ive heard of out of a 250ci was 365NA with a 4barrel carb and extensive head work. The ports are high in th head and quite nicley shaped to come down vertialy over the intake, exhaust ports are very nice and need no work. Not many people run the 200ci as its doesnt have the torque that the 250 does, and by the time you get the crossflow head working really well they will rev to 6500. Bottoms ends are bullet proof, the oil pump is good, and replacement iron pumps are available localy here, HV is not needed. There was a cast iron crossflow head in 76, but they are so heavy nobody goes near them. Overall the crossflow is a tough unit and widely used. The SOHC is commonly used but now most people are tuning the barra, its a big heavy thing that is as tough as old boots, dirt cheap, and can make huge torque with boost its only fault is the crank driven oil pump which has sintered gears that can fail, but steel gears are available for that. Even the stock rods and pistons with go to around 600bhp, people have achieved this sort of power without lifting the head. There is no aftermarket blocks and heads, but nobody seems to need them. A stock barra from a wrecker will cost you about $500 and would be a good runner at that. Hope this give some insight. Ps I forgot about cranks, the 200 crank has the shorter stroke and is lighter of course, the 250 is bigger for the 3.91 stroke, they are all good quality Nodular iron and never fail, theere are stories that the Australian made stuff is supeior to the USA because we have better raw materials?? The later 250 cranks have more counterweights. In the Au model they enlargded the mains journals again to get smoother running, the barra has this setup. The Au engines were the last one to have a jack shaft and oil pump in the sump. Psitons seem to be pretty gppd from the factory, they are all cast, mostly ACl, but I think turbo ones are Mahle. we also have dedictaed LPG engines, these run really well and were quite popular, Ive had one it was really good, they last forever.
 
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