Another Turbo 200 nears completion....

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If I stand on the brakes and floor it, It doesn't build boost - I think the converter is WAAY too tight. When I let off of the brakes and it starts rolling, boost starts about a second or two into the run.

Soggy take-off.....

I wish I could use my 3,000 RPM stall torque converter on my C5 trans. I guess I better get that C4 built so I can try the converter out.


I have a nitrous kit and some spare fogger nozzles, but no jets.

Also need a 1/16" NPT tap for the fogger nozzle. Anyone have a tap I can borrow?

I want to use it to leave the line a little harder. A 50 shot would be plenty. I have some pressure switches that would turn the nitrous off as soon as boost begins.
 
Linc's 200":pf1h2eve said:
You will need to pull some rabbits out of your hat to make your chassis hook up or the tires will just spin when boost comes on.
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wouldn't say that... Does10s didn't have a hard time getting his to launch well, and his is even older that Berger's
 
Linc's 200,
Congrats dude! Good to hear it's working for ya!
Ya you'd better just swap out that tranny before you grenade it! If you're having to "lift to shift" then the tranny will last about a week before you'll burn up the clutches.
I'm not sure why you don't make any boost footbraking it. Kelly's car builds about 5lbs. of boost at 2500rpm at the line footbraking it. Now in her case she's got a 3500 stall conv. and a two step.
Later,
Will
 
Does10s":2b6kzbcj said:
Congrats dude! Good to hear it's working for ya!
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Thanks...more tuning is still in order.

Does10s":2b6kzbcj said:
you'd better just swap out that tranny before you grenade it! If you're having to "lift to shift" then the tranny will last about a week before you'll burn up the clutches.
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It is the stock 163,000 mile unitt hat was behind the '84 3.8 liter V-6
It is going to be turned in for a core when it goes, anyways.

I don't understand why........If the vacuum modulator sees atmospheric pressure at full throttle, why would it shift differently if not hooked up?

Does10s":2b6kzbcj said:
I'm not sure why you don't make any boost footbraking it..... she's got a 3500 stall conv. and a two step.
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That's why. The stock C5 converter stalls at around 1700 RPM. If I could get to 3500 on the line I would probably be at 10 lbs.

If my C4 were done, I could swap it and my good converter in. It'll stall at 3200 behind the 351W, so should be around 2200-2500 behind a six. That would still be fairly streetable.
 
Gotta say, this has been one of the best posts since I've gotten here. Linc, you are doing a great job. I wish that I could do the same, but I don't have the car, garage, driveway, etc. available. They won't even let us wash our cars in the housing area! So I'll just follow along with you and dream of mine...until I get home. Germany's great and all, but home is home. Anyways, I'm eagerly awaiting the next installment.



kevin
 
is there a way you could make a video of you driving in your car? That would be just cool.... Why do you have to temp us like this??? Now I want to scrap my header and go with a turbo... :cry:
 
Wallaka, thanks for the 'props'!
I did all the work in my driveway and out of my one car garage. It is very halpful to have a TIG welder, MIG welder, grinders and drills and things.

Hasa68mustang, I have a Sony 8mm but I don't have a digital. I guess I should sell mine and get one unless someone can tell me how to process 8mm tape into a digital stream. Maybe I can borrow a digital video camera from someone.
 
This is by far one of the best posts I've followed to date. Your information and attitude it just a great inspiration to everyone Linc!

Man, I need to take a welding class. :cry:
 
stang200":2r4cr0fr said:
This is by far one of the best posts I've followed to date. Your information and attitude it just a great inspiration to everyone Linc!
Man, I need to take a welding class.
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Thank you, Thank you.

I started to learn to weld years ago with my dad's old AC "buzz-box" stick welder. It was good for fixing thick steel farm equipment, but hard to weld thin stuff. As I got curious about cars and stuff, I had to learn to weld thin stuff so I could make my own dual exhausts, etc. Later, I had a friend that would let me use his wire feed MIG welder, but it wasn't for many years after that until I could afford to buy a MIG of my own. The difference between AC stick welding and DC MIG welding is night and day. Then I got a really cheap TIG welder, and you can weld feeler gauges together with it!!!



Well, I bit the bullet 15 minutes ago - - - - I bought a PLX devices M-300 WideBand O2 sensor from www*forcedairperformance*com on eBay. It was $313 with free shipping. OUCH!! I guess I'll be eating Ramen noodles for a while longer..... :LOL:

I wish there were an easier way, but for me to see what kind of potential this engine has, I can't be off on the air/fuel ratio.....and as the power goes up, the margin you can be "off" gets smaller. The wideband will help me get the tune nailed down.

Now, I need to see what my 2000 year Sony 8mm will sell for, so I can put the money towards something that will take digital videos.

Anyone know of a site that can host videos? If not, I will have to e-mail videos as attachments to those that want to see them. But that is a ways into the future.

I know there is a way to convert analog video into digital, but I don't know how to do it.

I will keep you all posted as I make progress. Today is tuesday...I am going to try to make it to the strip Sat night and see what 1/4 mile times "Verson 1.0" can lay down.
 
I have plans to hit the 1/4 mile at Prairie Hill, TX this Sat night and will post 1/4 times here when that's over.

1st run will be with 8 psi wastegate, as is....

Then I will turn up the boost with boost controller to see what that nets me, first 12 psi (50% more) then 16 psi (100% more)

I'll try to video the runs from inside the car with my 8mm.....I see digital DVR recorders on ebay run around $200-$250, and my 8mm sells for around $100 (1/4 what I paid 5 years ago, barely used)

If I can find a digital DVR vbefore then I'll use it instead - - and post some videos!!!!
 
Linc's 200":3cmstpw3 said:
I know there is a way to convert analog video into digital, but I don't know how to do it.
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I think I found the answer, it is called a "Video Capture card" that goes in the back of a PC and accepts an analog NTSC signal.. I bought one off of ebay, when I get videos up I'll post the links to them here.
 
Thats exactly what I have, it worked well, then stopped, and then I reformatted and now it works. I used it for many things like playing ps2 on it, you can also hook up a vcr or satellite reciever and minimize it and watch tv while your surfing! As you can see I had too much fun with mine... the one I have I bought at walmart for 40 bucks, and also has aux ports and an s-video if I remember correctly.
 
Wow...this thread is amazing! With my own project in the works, this is a really awesome read. Its heling me work out some of the bugs before I even get to them. Keep the updates comin, ESPECIALLY track times!
Matt
 
Glad you enjoy it, Matt.

It is hard to keep making daily/weekly progress when I work as much as I do, but "version 1.0" will definitely make it to the track this Saturday for some "first time out" baseline runs - - trans slipping in second and all!! (3rd gear hits and holds hard, and MPH times is what I need to figure HP)

It would be nice if the wideband made it here by then.....
 
66Sprint6":s5jvgckg said:
Holley 2300 carb (500cfm)
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Matt, I see you are running a 500. You may want to go to a smaller carb when the turbo is being set-up. One of the things I learned from the great folks at turbomustangs.com is that too large of a carb makes it difficult to get good metering when under boost, and overall makes tuning more difficult.

There are many guys on that board running 9's on a 600-650 carb (on MUCH larger engines) I can't see the need for a "large" carb. Their experiences are why I decided to try the 1-bbl I have - - - - It is easier to tune a smaller carb under boost than a larger one.

The 2-3 times I have had my car to 20 psi, the engine pulled hard and ran clean, which is very encouraging to me.

I *DEFINITELY* have plans to swap to a 2-bbl, but not until I get the chance to see how this 1 bbl performs. I also like to work in steps and not change too many things at once.
 
This has been talked about before, running the smaller cfm carb. Just as in Does 10s is only using the 350 cfms on his 250. He could go larger but then again it makes for harder to tune and the 350 atomizes fuel so much better than the 500 cfm. Boost does funny things to the carb, where you think you are running too lean when actually you are too rich, just ask Does 10s. He gained more by running the smaller jets, which only support a certain Hp (from Holley's recomended jet to Hp ratio chart) and had more Hp, under boost of course, than the jets were rcomended for. Hope not too confusing. Turbo is good.

Kirk ' 73 bronco
 
kirkallen143":2nts89v5 said:
He gained more by running the smaller jets, which only support a certain Hp (from Holley's recomended jet to Hp ratio chart) and had more Hp, under boost of course, than the jets were rcomended for.
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That happens all the time. Carburetors sense "density" and if density increases fuel delivery will increase, even with a smaller jet. I think it may also have more to do with "pressure drop" through the carb, high pressure above and low pressure below means greater draw on the booster venturi.

(Family lives in Spring - I drive through Navasota all the time ;) )
 
I think I might have to go yarding this weekend or next week for a holley 1bbl now!!! I can pretty much bolt a turbo on right now but am hung up on a 2v swap since it means money in a head that I will prob jsut pull off in a year for a SP head.
 
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