After 11yrs on here, finally getting a six!

[CoupeBoy]

I found it on a local craigslist ad late last week and called him yesterday.

it is a 170 with C4 out of a Maverick. He said that it was a running driving car that a Tech School swapped a bent8 into. He couldn't stand to see the motor/trans on the scrap pile so he saved it for a rat rod project, well that project never happened and he accumulated a lot of other stuff. This Winter he decided he wanted his shop space back for other hopeful projects and listed this motor.

He didn't have an asking price so I called him and asked what he wanted for it.. after a few minutes of hyming and hawing about stuff, he said if somebody gave him $20 they could have it.

I said i would take it for that price, and then asked if it was just the motor or if the transmission came with it, he said 'take it all, I have the air cleaner for it somewhere too'

Now I am just waiting, his job has him out of town most days and he is going to give me a call next time he is has time, then I will run over and get it.

First order of business is going to be getting it cleaned up.. then re-attach the trans to the motor and fire it up to see what I got. I have lots of upgrade parts, a complete D2, a homebuilt 1v to 2v adapter for use with a 32/36 Weber.. a 32/36 Weber, a couple Autolite 2v carbs. I have a complete (unassembled) flat top log head from 250, At Dad's house I have a complete 200 (with cracked exhaust manifold ear on the head) and either a 144 or 170 block. I just sent off an email to an old coworker who has a twin turbo setup off of a 3.0L something inline six that he swapped on a larger single turbo, he said he would sell it to me for $25 plus actual shipping. I will have to find the rest of the components.. spark timing retard, boost friendly induction... but that is a longer term project. Along with my idea to convert a cast intake head to a removable intake.

This motor will be going into my '67 Mustang that originally had a 200/C4. I bought this car in '93 for $300 with no motor/trans, however I do have the required motor mounts, transmission mount, driveline, shift and throttle linkages. I will need to fix some quarter panel/wheel well rust and find a passenger fender/headlight bucket before I can drive it.

In case it's not obvious, I'm excited. I love working on projects and I especially like it when I can work on them for cheap!

I will get more pics of the motor once I have it in my hot little hands, and more pictures of the car sometime later this Spring when I can get it out of the barn. The attached pic is from the original ad.

-ron

 

[MPGmustang]

$20 8)

you can do so much for that price and then the turbo for $25... I say do it all before you put it in the car only because it costs more to go back into the car once you have it running. I hope you get this project done cheap too. what a roll!! :wow:

 

[CoupeBoy]

Haste typically makes project costs expand, I am going to be happy with just having it back together and movable under its own power, which it has never done in the almost 20years that I have owned it.

I am setting the bar low this year..
fix rust
put sheet metal where it needs to be (fender/headlight/valance)
Make some braces (export, monte carlo, subframe connectors)
paint it all one color (I have 3 cans of Dupli-Color Paint Shop silver at home that I bought for $5each)

drive it!

There is more good cheapness to this car..
The brakes were all rebuilt (replaced wheel cylinders, reman brake shoes, replaced front wheel bearings, and hold down hardware) in '98, so I will most likely be replacing the wheel cylinders and master cylinder again, just to be sure. The tires and wheels will come from my brother's '68 Mustang Coupe already on 4 lug steel rims and they only have about 2000 miles on them, but they will probably be dry rotting already...

If I chose to go 5 lug, I already have a '68 Mustang parts car that is giving up its 8" rear and 5 lug front hubs, no need to change anything else in the suspension as '67/68 already has bent8 spindles and steering components. If I want to convert to 'quick ratio' non-power steering the "parts '68 Mustang' will give up its steering column and I have 2 boxes to chose from out of '69 Torinos (one of which has a 9" axle housing in it still), now I wonder if the GT swaybar is interchangable...put the GT torino swaybar up front and relocate the stock 6cyl to the rear...(my interchange manual at home will tell me if it fits or not and what size it is)

The driveline came from an old supervisor, it came out of a '69 Mustang, it fits no problem. The crossmember has already been sanded and painted.

This car really only needs a few things to be back on the road.. a fender and headlight bucket for the pass side, a lower valance and rock panel. And the aformentioned rust repair on the wheel well lips, it's not terrible but its not pretty either.

Getting it all perfect would be ideal, but perfect to me would also include clutch pedals and a T5, light tan leather upholstry, fiberglass front end (hood/headlight buckets, lower valance).. I know all about building something only to be unhappy with the end results. My '68 (bent8) was rebuilt using all stock replacement parts and when I was done, I wished I had done a disc brake conversion on the front, I wished I had done a rack and Pinion conversion, I wished I had gone with 15" or larger tires/rims, I wished I had taller backs on my stock recovered bucket seats.

Before I would even consider doing it all at once I would have to first solve the following problems.
Timing retard under boost
Fuel system (would LOVE a MPFI solution, but a carb in a box will work)
To intercool or not?
turbo exhaust manifold, I am going to have to build one.
Manual valve body for transmission
Upgrades to the transmission to take the power.

too much time an dmoney would be required to do it 'completely right'

-ron

 

[STEVEN.]

Congrats on the purchase. Good to see that your starting to form a plan & gather stuff :wrench: . Good luck. ~OO6.

 

[chad]

Yes, congrats are defiantly due, I have seen yer posts elsewhere (& thought bout my yrs in Philly).

"...170 with C4..."
Interesting. I have the motor in my Bronco & a C4 on the shop floor. I'd love a pic of both "1/2s" from where they mate to see the flex plate & tq 'verter plate etc & what if any adaptor is used. Love it if U could accommodate -

 

[CoupeBoy]

Looks like I can continue to be cheap for a while anyhow...

Front Valance $34
http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com/pr ... nt-valance
Plus another $10 for the bolts that I threw away (I was young and dumb'er' 24yrs ago!)
http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com/pr ... e-hardware

A replacement headlight bucket (aftermarket) for $115 is pretty reasonable
http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com/pr ... ssembly-rh

I don't know if I need this or not..
Upper Stone Guard $23
http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com/pr ... tone-guard

And the last big ticket item will be the RH fender $150
http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com/pr ... -fender-rh

In the rear I might have to do some thinking, I don't want to replace the whole outer wheel housing, I might just salvage some steel from one of the many parts cars at Dad's house that has an appropriate curve and thickness then hammer/weld in some patches. Otherwise I am looking at

Wheelhouse patches $30/each ($60 total)
http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com/pr ... e-patch-lh

And for the outside, I really only need part of the quarter panel. The lip is "ok" but above the lip and about 8-9" long it rotted out.

again from the same vender.. full 'economy' quarter panels are $59/each ($120 total)

Now where can I scare up another $512 (plus taxes and shipping) My question of the spring that shall continue into the summer...

-ron

 

[The Plankster Prankster]

i haven't checked out that vendor, but make sure they stand behind their parts. i once bought a hood online, recieved it dented, and then checked their return policy, which stated "absolutely no returns on body parts for any reason". i don't remember what company it was, it was one of the first that google showed.
this is only likely to be a problem on your fender, as the other parts are all small enough that dents won't happen as easily.

congrats on a great find!

 

[CoupeBoy]

I just picked the first vendor on Google. I also checked. CJ Pony parts,.their pricing was within $5 and I have bought from them before.

-ron

 

[CoupeBoy]

Having struck a deal but not having the product is a little nerve wracking. Hopefully our snowstorm will have the seller in town for one of the next couple days so I can feel more confident with this project.

-ron

 

[MPGmustang]

the lower valance bolts on to the stone guard on my 65 mustang, I suspect it's similar...

there's no JY's near by with these parts? I bet you could get all for less than $200 if your lucky to find one in a JY...

 

[JT81stang]

Coupeboy you might want to doublecheck the size of that motor. I don't think a 170 was ever offered in a Maverick. You may have a 200 or even a 250 as I had a 250 motor from a 1971 maverick in my 1981 Stang.

 

[chad]

30 yrs...could have been swaped into the mav as well
8^0
got a '70 bronk (C below) in '83. Even that (13 yrs) had a car motor (2 dipsticks !) in it.
No messin around since then but soon, may be put in another (it's rebuilt) car motor.

Check the cast in numbers behind the exhaust 'down tube' on the engine. They may be more reliable than the other numbers (intake, exhaust, carb #s). I assume you've done this/know that. It taught me bout ford's "families' & that, unlike some co.s, there's no IDing the model it came from even oe.

 

[CoupeBoy]

I will verify it once I get it. The Standard Catalog of Ford states that the 170 was available in 1970 but only for the 2dr cars with the U engine code.

-ron

 

[chad]

Buddy down the st has been a (mostly ford) mechanic for bout 5 decades. He's got that book whicjh sez 1 of my (the only 1 I looked up w/him) 250s wuz from a fairmont (or wuz it a granada?? I just remember it wasn't the 'stang) while the PO sez it wuz in the bought new mustang he's had since 1969. That's why we made the deal. Numbers R for '69. I heard ford wuz not as specific on which motor went in which model as say chebby. Couldn't ID it that specific. Tell me more...I need ed u ma cation!

 

[CobraSix]

Slow and steady wins the race.

Downside, if you do it like me, you end up with too much cheap stuff in your garage. At one point, I had 3 inline 6s in the garage, and one in the car. 2-2.77 3 speeds and 1 T5, two rear ends, 3 complete front ends, 3 sets of V-8 spindles, etc. Got them all really cheap. Which is good, considering that most of it I gave away when I emptied the garage. Now I'm down to 2 spare engines. (One for mock ups, one is Xflow).

 

[Invectivus]

Downside, if you do it like me, you end up with too much cheap stuff in your garage.

x2

for my 2 cars I have a 170, 3 200's, a 250 US, an EFI Oz 250, 2 stock rears, 2 Mav rears, CI AL head, C9 flat top head, 3 T5's, a C4, a 2.77, a 3.03, a BW45 auto, and a stack of extra set and adjustable frock rockers. Plus a few sets of good used pistons and near half a dozen weber an 5200's.

a lot of it is the stupid cash for clunkers accelerated disposal of our parts car supplies, so they can't stay in the yards very long, and once they're gone pickings will get spare. I also love wrenching, and paying yard prices for fun seems like an ok trade when I have the money.

do need to dream/prep less, and implement more.

 

[CoupeBoy]

Invectus, any chance you found/bought a set of clutch pedals for a '67/68 Mustang cheap during your shopping trips that you'd like to resell?

The 170/C4 is going to be a good cheap drivetrain for the car, but my end goal remains to be a 250/CI AL head/MPFI/Turbo/Manual (T5 or better)

I have lots of space for storage and working on cars. What I don't have lots of is time and money. I will do all the work on this car myself, even the alignment. There may be a few things that I get others to take care for me like large welding projects, I will mock it up and have a 'professional' burn it in. One of the companies I support is a trailer manufacturer that has commercial grade MIG and TIG machines on their shop floor (as well as handheld and CNC plasma, metal brakes, and benders). The shop foreman has already told me that I am welcome to use their equipment after hours. I will be sure that their IT needs are taken care of

-ron

 

[Invectivus]

that's one thing i've never seen, rarely are 60's mustangs in the yards. there is a 69, if you think they'd fit i could take a peek for you, it just hit the yard on the 9th:
http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventor ... istance=50

 

[chad]

Gosh, U guys sound a lill like me - but more $, automotive theory & better mechanics!
Last near 30 yrs I collect prts and dream on. It took 3 - 4 vehicles to make mine, but around here anything over 10 yrs old is off to the crusher. I'm my own junk yrd, but U ever notice? the 3 or 4 things U need R never on the acreage?

 

[Frankenstang]

Welcome back from the 'dark side' Ron Even if you're still secretly a 'double agent' :rolflmao:
Congrats on your newest project!