'76 F250 Turbo Build

Couple more pics from unloading last night. The owner of the machine shop was pretty stoked with the parts selection I had, he really likes the Callies rods and has already recommended them to someone else on their boosted 300 project.

Ended up going with the longer chevy valves since there's no timeline for getting the exhaust valves from SI. The shop also took the time to figure out what shims I'll need for the rockers to get the geometry spot on, 0.065".

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Things of beauty for sure!

Would you mind posting a picture of the cam card/sheet?
Thanks
 
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It's starting to feel like there's not enough weekends in a month... Been a while since I've gotten a chance to do anything on this project šŸ˜”

Made some good headway this weekend though. Originally I had planned to just get the crank installed, but realized I should probably get ring filing out of the way first. I've admittedly been a bit nervous to start on this, because I've never done this before and I'm paranoid about messing something up. But I took my time, and got all the rings set up (and installed on the pistons), plus the crank installed.

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My Haynes manual called out 0.0008 to 0.0015 for bearing clearance, with 0.0026 as the service limit. I think just around 0.002 should be fine..

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Lubed up, and spinning freely!
 
Looks Great!
What do you have for crankshaft end play?

Also what did you use for valve springs?
 
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Looks Great!
What do you have for crankshaft end play?

Also what did you use for valve springs?
Thanks!

Endplay looks to be right at 0.007". I couldn't really get any movement by prying, and that was measured at the back of the #5 bearing
 
Endplay looks to be right at 0.007". I couldn't really get any movement by prying, and that was measured at the back of the #5 bearing
The endplay is measured by placing a dial indicator on the end of the crankshaft, then you pry the crank in one direction, zero the dial and pry the other direction to get the endplay reading.
 
The endplay is measured by placing a dial indicator on the end of the crankshaft, then you pry the crank in one direction, zero the dial and pry the other direction to get the endplay reading.

Unfortunately I don't have a dial indicator setup right now. Best I could do is with feeler gauges.
 
You will need a dial indicator with magnetic base to install and degree the camshaft

Good to know, I haven't read up on the degreeing process yet so I didn't realize I'd need one there too. Looks like I'm going shopping šŸ˜Ž
 
Is stacking rocker shims to get the proper thickness a bad idea? My machine shop found shimming 0.065" would bring rocker geometry back to normal, but most shims I'm seeing are in 10 thou increments, most commonly 0.02, 0.04, and 0.06 but I've found a 0.025 and could combine it with a 0.04 to get me to 0.065.



Alternatively, if I go with a single 0.06, will the missing 5 thou screw with things?
 
I'm working on getting the camshaft installed today, and as I got it unwrapped to clean and Lube it up I noticed the forward most bearing face has a groove in it, that extends about a quarter of the way around. Is this something that is intentionally there? Crower tech support isn't open on the weekends so I'm not able to call them.

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