'63 223 Temp Sending Unit

[LeonBlank]

My 223 is freshly back from a complete engine re-build. My original head was machined too far before and was beyond repair. I was able to source a donor. The only difference was the temp sending unit hole is now a 1/8npt instead of the 1/4" that I had before.
I have tried 4 diferent sending units, Auto Meter, generec, and standard ts-205's. I can not find any source that has the correct resistance to even register on my dash gause. The last one I tried (ts-205) said it was for a 63 econoline....this was the closest but nope.

Any ideas out there from the masters?!?!

Now that my 200+ psi oil pump situation is under control moving on to all the little stuff like this.

 

[bubba22349]

You could use a Plumbing Pipe adapter 1/8 to 1/4 Inch NPT fitting (Bell Shaped).

 

[LeonBlank]

You could use a Plumbing Pipe adapter 1/8 to 1/4 Inch NPT fitting (Bell Shaped).

My only thought on that would be it would have to be quite long to get the tip of the sender to not bottom out and I am not quite sure how accurate it would be as the water flow in there would be questionable.

 

[Paps61]

My only thought on that would be it would have to be quite long to get the tip of the sender to not bottom out and I am not quite sure how accurate it would be as the water flow in there would be questionable.

I would try an adapter first, you could use a NPT tap to try and get the adapter further into the head which would move the sensor closer. If you need to go to 1/4” could always drill and tap a new threads but then you risk damaging the head.
What about the water pump or thermostat housing? I believe those are both 1/4 NPT

 

[bubba22349]

Have you tried at National Parts Depot? Here is one that looks to be right one to work in a 1/8 Inch NPT.

SENDING UNIT, WATER TEMPERATURE - 10884-1 - National Parts Depot

Buy Part#10884-1 - SENDING UNIT, WATER TEMPERATURE

www.npdlink.com

And a few others of theirs.
https://www.npdlink.com/search/products?search_terms=temperature+sender&top_parent=200001&year=1966

 

[LeonBlank]

I have tried a few from a few different places. The issue is the electrical resistance. They don't list any elec data on any of the sites that I ordered from. After some resistor testing I found a Mustang sending unit that gets me close It reads 150* when I have a 190* thermostat. The biggest reason I want it to work is if I lose a belt I would never know. I have one that works just not correct. I can at least see if the temp is trending up when it should not be. Close counts for now. I have other things that should get buttoned up and maybe I will get back to it later.

Thank you all once again for your input!

 

[bubba22349]

Here is the description of Temp Sender in my above post, this should be the correct resistance. Best wishes.


"Fits 1963 F100-F350 223, 262, 292, STAMPED *230*

Fits 1963-1966 F100-F350"
SENDING UNIT, Water Temperature, replacement, 1/8 inch-27 npt, 12v, original stamped 250

NPD Part Number : 10884-1

Manufacturer Reference #'s: TS-17, C3AZ-10884-A, C3AZ-10884-B, SW-344, C5DZ-10884-A, SW-427

Vehicle Information
Year-Range (bold) Model (bold) Fits/Applications
1965-1966 MUSTANG (BEFORE 9/1/65), 170, 200
1965-1966 MUSTANG (BEFORE 9/1/65), 260, 289
1963-1964 FALCON (FROM 11/15/62)
1965-1965 FALCON 289
1965-1966 FALCON (BEFORE 9/1/65), 170, 200
1964-1965 FAIRLANE 260, 289
1964-1966 FAIRLANE (BEFORE 9/1/65), 170, 200
1963-1963 F100-F350 223, 262, 292, STAMPED *230*
1963-1966 F100-F350
1965-1966 F100-F350 (BEFORE 66 SERIAL# 751,001), 240, 300
1964-1964 F250, F350
1966-1966 BRONCO (BEFORE 66 SERIAL# 751,001)

 

[LeonBlank]

Here is the description of Temp Sender in my above post, this should be the correct resistance. Best wishes.


"Fits 1963 F100-F350 223, 262, 292, STAMPED *230*

Fits 1963-1966 F100-F350"
SENDING UNIT, Water Temperature, replacement, 1/8 inch-27 npt, 12v, original stamped 250

NPD Part Number : 10884-1

Manufacturer Reference #'s: TS-17, C3AZ-10884-A, C3AZ-10884-B, SW-344, C5DZ-10884-A, SW-427

That is actually the one that I have in there now. When I measure the resistance between the old 1/4" and the new one they are close-ish but not the same when I heat them up to a known temperature.

 

[Paps61]

That is actually the one that I have in there now. When I measure the resistance between the old 1/4" and the new one they are close-ish but not the same when I heat them up to a known temperature.

Just a thought but could you use a decade(resistor) box to find the sweep of the original gauge then and compare your resistance readings to what you get from the original sending unit when it’s heated to certain temps then compare to another sending unit to find that range? Not sure if this makes it more complicated but plugging in a certain resistance value on the gauge would show where the needle sits.
The easiest cheapest option would be to try an adapter to mount your original sensor and check with a temp. Gun monitor your coolant temp to make sure it’s working or Mr gasket even has a temp gauge built into a radiator cap so you can monitor as it warms up.

 

[DarylBrooks]

My 223 is freshly back from a complete engine re-build. My original head was machined too far before and was beyond repair. I was able to source a donor. The only difference was the temp sending unit hole is now a 1/8npt instead of the 1/4" that I had before.
I have tried 4 diferent sending units, Auto Meter, generec, and standard ts-205's. I can not find any source that has the correct resistance to even register on my dash gause. The last one I tried (ts-205) said it was for a 63 econoline....this was the closest but nope.


Any ideas out there from the masters?!?!


Now that my 200+ psi oil pump situation is under control moving on to all the little stuff like this.
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Since you have tried different units and none seem to work, perhaps contacting forums or communities with experienced members can provide insight. They may have faced similar challenges and found the right solution

 

[chad]

Since you have tried different units and none seem to work, perhaps contacting forums or communities with experienced members can provide insight. They may have faced similar challenges and found the right solution

dat's THIS place.
Got some others? as i face same w/a '69 stang 250/4.1.
Wrong size, wrong shape, different threads, incorrect dash reading, etc...
I better try NPD, I saw that on another of our threads.
Tried that on ur F-100?
(BTW: did U leave off the thread sealer? I DO as I believe it prevents a ground for the ele system).