It does not appear that I'll be running boost on this car. So it seems that the stock should be good.
What does something like that cost? Roughly. That don't sound cheap. Doing the ARP bolts alone cost like $200
All Small Six 200 Aussie 2V Build
- Thread starter StarDiero75
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
What does something like that cost? Roughly. That don't sound cheap. Doing the ARP bolts alone cost like $200
Lets hope they come together, or we're not leaving the driveway!
Does the back cut go all the way to the lap in spot, or should there be a little gap in between?
See if you can get gus91326 to say, I believe that he just did the 1jz thing.. I never had a problem with the prepped stock forged rod till I went boost with the obligatory tuning screw oop's...I like the 5/16'' stem, all the V8 race engines use them, and I think that there is more to chouse from, but if your guides are in good shape It makes the decision harder..
Did you get a chance to measure the valve retainers installed height on the OZ head?
Sorry about that, I forgot the other day and got it yesterday. Current retainer install height is 1.550". So it sounds like odds are I'll need a longer valveDid you get a chance to measure the valve retainers installed height on the OZ head?
The closest I can come up with is the Isky 5005 dual springs.
It would give you about 120 lbs on the seat at 1.550" and 280 lbs at .500" valve lift.
Probably be good for 6500 rpm.
Isky Racing Cams 5005 Isky Valve Springs | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Isky Valve Springs with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Valve Springs at Summit Racing.
You can move the retainer up .050" with PAC-L8149 5/16" keepers.
It would reduce the Isky spring pressure about 16 lbs but then there would be room to shim across all 12 springs to make the installed height even.
There are .050" up keepers for the 11/32" valve stems also.
The other option is the longer custom valves from Manley.
This should give you plenty to think about.
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I noticed the installed height is 1.531 on those valves. Those would get shimmed into place, right? With .495" lift that puts me under the bind mark so we're good there. I'll do a bit of digging on my own but these looks pretty alright. The price tag is enough to make a grown man cry though haha.The closest I can come up with is the Isky 5005 dual springs.
It would give you about 120 lbs on the seat at 1.550" and 280 lbs at .500" valve lift.
Probably be good for 6500 rpm.
Isky Racing Cams 5005 Isky Valve Springs | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Isky Valve Springs with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Valve Springs at Summit Racing.www.summitracing.com
You can move the retainer up .050" with PAC-L8149 5/16" keepers.
It would reduce the Isky spring pressure about 16 lbs but then there would be room to shim across all 12 springs to make the installed height even.
There are .050" up keepers for the 11/32" valve stems also.
The other option is the longer custom valves from Manley.
This should give you plenty to think about.
Also, trying to spin this bad boy up to 6k, is there anything else I need to look at doing?
Currently my thoughts are:
•ARP rod bolts
•Shot peen, polish, and weigh the rods
•(Already have a dynamically balanced clutch and flywheel assembly)
•Dual springs
•If I take the crank out, I'll likely get it repolished and balanced (how cruical is this?)
•As much as I would love ARP studs for the main, thats probably not happening as that needs a line bore and at that point I might as well do a complete rebuild to the short block. We shall see though how much money I'm willing to dump into this haha.
Currently my thoughts are:
•ARP rod bolts
•Shot peen, polish, and weigh the rods
•(Already have a dynamically balanced clutch and flywheel assembly)
•Dual springs
•If I take the crank out, I'll likely get it repolished and balanced (how cruical is this?)
•As much as I would love ARP studs for the main, thats probably not happening as that needs a line bore and at that point I might as well do a complete rebuild to the short block. We shall see though how much money I'm willing to dump into this haha.
The spring has a 125 lbs seat pressure at the 1.531" installed height.
Schneider may want less seat pressure which means you will need to increase the installed spring height.
The .050" up keepers will let you increase the height beyond the present 1.550" if needed.
I'm assuming you only measured one retainer height at 1.550"?
Chance are all twelve retainer have different heights.
Having the retainers higher than you need to get the correct installed spring pressure gives you the room to shim the springs so the are all at the same installed height and pressure.
I like to have forging lines removed off the rod beams and then polished and shot peened.
All grinding must be done along the length of the beams and never across the beams.
When you use the ARP rod bolts, the rods get resized and balanced meaning the big ends are made to weigh the same and the small ends are made to weigh the same.
A 6000 rpm crankshaft should be balanced.
You can use the stock main bolts or ARP does have bolts available separately.
See page 152 of the ARP online catalog.
The ARP bolts can be torqued to the same spec as the stock bolts.
The block needs to be bored for the new pistons.
What pistons are you going to use?
All grinding must be done along the length of the beams and never across the beams.
When you use the ARP rod bolts, the rods get resized and balanced meaning the big ends are made to weigh the same and the small ends are made to weigh the same.
A 6000 rpm crankshaft should be balanced.
You can use the stock main bolts or ARP does have bolts available separately.
See page 152 of the ARP online catalog.
The ARP bolts can be torqued to the same spec as the stock bolts.
The block needs to be bored for the new pistons.
What pistons are you going to use?
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Ok I'll call schneider and see what they recommend then.
Yes I did. Honestly i feel that measuring retainer height at this point is null and void since I'm putting different valves in it. B/c every valve will be different, right? Or are they all the same? I'll measure again once the seats are re-cut for the larger valves and we pick a valve.
Ok I'll keep all that in mind when its time to get to them. Short block stuff will be last as I still need to drive the car for a bit haha.
Oh i didn't realize that was already common practice to make them weigh the same after resizing.
Thats what I was afraid of. Is line boring the mains expensive? I believe it is based on reading others builds. If I go to all the trouble of that I might as well have it line bored, offset ground for stroke, balanced, and ARP studs. Agree? Do it right the first time instead of the garage rebuild crap I keep doing to the short block.
Do I need new pistons for 6000???? Hot damn this got a lot more expensive. Currently they're .030". That is one I'd have the bores checked on before boring. I don't want this motor toast after the .040 mark and i ain't paying to resleeve it at $100 a sleeve.
You are correct.
A different valve with the same length may have a different retainer height if the valve job is redone including having the seats cut for a larger valve head.
If the new valve has a different length, then the retainer height will be a different height.
The stock rods have balancing pads on both ends that can be ground to change the weight of each end.
The last operation is to make the big ends all weight the same as well as making all the small ends weight the same.
The big end of the rod is part of the rotating mass of the crankshaft, while the small end is part of the reciprocating mass as part of the piston.
That's why the ends are balanced separately.
I would not trust a standard cast piston at high rpm and high horsepower levels.
I would trust a Hypereutectic cast piston or a forged piston.
What pistons were you looking at using?
A different valve with the same length may have a different retainer height if the valve job is redone including having the seats cut for a larger valve head.
If the new valve has a different length, then the retainer height will be a different height.
The stock rods have balancing pads on both ends that can be ground to change the weight of each end.
The last operation is to make the big ends all weight the same as well as making all the small ends weight the same.
The big end of the rod is part of the rotating mass of the crankshaft, while the small end is part of the reciprocating mass as part of the piston.
That's why the ends are balanced separately.
I would not trust a standard cast piston at high rpm and high horsepower levels.
I would trust a Hypereutectic cast piston or a forged piston.
What pistons were you looking at using?
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Ok cool so I'm not crazy haha. Ok so we'll pick a valve and worry about height after.
Oh I know the pads you're talking about. I didn't realize they were for weight balancing. That makes sense, plus I dont think you can make the small end weigh the same as the big end haha.
Wonderful, so I am looking at a complete long block rebuild. So, a quick memory check tells me the 2.3 HSC flat tops are a nice swap in. These can be found in hypereutectic, right? Forged would be amazing but I don't think the budget allows for that. And if I do forged, i mught as well do 1JZ rods. The HSC ones would allow me to not mill the head as much to compensate for the big chamber. Howerver I need to get the valves in and CC the head before I choose a piston. 0 decking would be good to do probably at this point too, right? Any personal choices on hyper pistons?
Is it not crazy how things can get out of hand fast..The 1jz rod will let you stroke it some ..Keep in mind that that the 1jz rod was picked mostly for a boosted app, it is shorter than some other options and gives a good ring pack.. If you never plan to go boost there is some longer rods that could be better for a NA plan.. Of course you will need custom pistons.. One thing good about the 4340 rods is that they are set up for floating pin and you can ass. and take them apart by hand.
Since the head gasket is .045" thick, a zero deck piston would be good.
A flat top piston at zero deck with a 58cc combustion chambers puts the compression ratio at 9.3
The 280 degree cam with a 9.3 compression ratio should allow you to run 87 octane pump gas.
I couldn't find any Hypereutectic Ford 2.3 HSC pistons. Just regular cast pistons
I did find Australian Ford 250 Hypereutectic pistons.
Silvolite 3327H
The CH is 1.530" so they are at zero deck without decking the block.
A flat top piston at zero deck with a 58cc combustion chambers puts the compression ratio at 9.3
The 280 degree cam with a 9.3 compression ratio should allow you to run 87 octane pump gas.
I couldn't find any Hypereutectic Ford 2.3 HSC pistons. Just regular cast pistons
I did find Australian Ford 250 Hypereutectic pistons.
Silvolite 3327H
The CH is 1.530" so they are at zero deck without decking the block.
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I know right?!?! Its one of those things where if I start doing stuff, I might as well do it right. I've had to do a lot of rework on this car in general, and I'd rather just do it once and not worry about it. I think howerver I'm gonna stick with the stock forged and roll with a hypereutectic piston.
Isnt it .050? Thats the felpro one I believe. The victor is .045, right? I remember not being able to find that one last time I was buying a head gasket.
What calculator are you using? Or is that from experience? Thats great I might not have to run premium. My wallet hates me right now haha.
That was just one of my ideas. I couldn't find one either the longer I looked. However some don't state the material, so i assume those are cast.
I DIDN'T EVEN THINK OF THE AUSSIES!! Good thinking. I'll have to measure everything when I get my motor out to make sure my motor hasn't been decked yet. I did have a MATLAB file that would calculate my CR and I had the deck height from the piston recorded, but my license expired so I no longer have it RIP. I guess I won't be able to offset the crank then to get some stroke if I roll with those pistons. But they are probably by far the cheapest option. I noticed they make those in .030 and .040, so I'll be set either way
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