All Small Six 200 Aussie 2V Build

This relates to all small sixes

StarDiero75

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Howdy Guys,

Just got off the phone with Kevin at Schneider Cams and he's recommending me 1 of 2 cams for my aussie 250 head:

280H
112LSA
.495"@.050 w/ 1.65 rockers
222 duration@.050
Peak power 5600-5800
Comes in at 2000

270H
112LSA
.488"@.050 w/1.65 rockers
218 duration@.050
Peak power 5400-5600
Comes in at 1800

I'm going with 1.75" intake and 1.5" exhaust (if I can find these. I may have to put 144 intake valves in). Dual out VI headers 2" exhaust, Sniper 2300, and DSII. This is a daily that I want to be able to rip occasionally. I was thinking about triple side drafts but I can't afford that so we'll roll with the sniper I already have lol. I also plan to pull the pistons/rods out and have the rods upgraded to ARP bolts, that way I can rev a little higher.

So which cam should I go with? I like the slightly more low end of the 270H. Or is there another cam I should be looking into?

Thanks,
Ryan
 
Kevin is trying to take advantage of the better flow of the Ausie head by moving the engine's volumetric efficiency up in rpm to make good horsepower.
This is the reason you bought this head.
Go for the horsepower and run the 280 cam.

There are several using a very similar profile to the 280 cam Kevin suggested in 300 sixes.
The engines pull strong from 1000 to 5000 rpm.
They are using compression ratios from 9 to 9.5

The 200 with the Ausie head and 280 cam will still have enough torque to move you around below the power band and will be a lot of fun once it hits.

The 200 six having a smaller diameter bore can tolerate a higher compression ratio.
I would look at a static compression ratio between 9.5 and 10 depending on what octane pump gas you want to use.

What is the combustion chamber volume in your Aussie 250 head?
 
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Kevin is trying to take advantage of the better flow of the Ausie head by moving the engine's volumetric efficiency up in rpm to make good horsepower.
This is the reason you bought this head.
Go for the horsepower and run the 280 cam.

There are several using a very similar profile to the 280 cam Kevin suggested in 300 sixes.
The engines pull strong from 1000 to 5000 rpm.
They are using compression ratios from 9 to 9.5

The 200 with the Ausie head and 280 cam will still have enough torque to move you around below the power band and will be a lot of fun once it hits.

The 200 six having a smaller diameter bore can tolerate a higher compression ratio.
I would look at a static compression ratio between 9.5 and 10 depending on what octane pump gas you want to use.

What is the combustion chamber volume in your Aussie 250 head?
Yup you are right man, that was the whole reason for the head lol. Thanks for reminding me.

Ok, I'll talk with him and see what he recommends static ratio wise. I believe I went with 9.3. He warned me about getting into the 8.0 dynamic ratio. I believe at 9.3 it puts me at 7.8 dynamic. I will likely push it to 9.5 static then. I'd much prefer 87 octane but I've been used to putting 92 in it so I'm not too concerned.

I don't know yet. I just dropped it off at the shop to get magnafluxed. We're trying to get 1.5" valves for the exhaust, and I'd much prefer to get the port flow valves. I was planning on CCing the head after I got my valves installed b/c I expect there to be a little unshrouding. At this point in time, it looks like I'll have to kill my 2V E0 head and take my 1.75/1.5 stainless port flows out of it and put them into the aussie. Not very happy about that.
 
At this point in time, it looks like I'll have to kill my 2V E0 head and take my 1.75/1.5 stainless port flows out of it and put them into the aussie. Not very happy about that.
Don't kill your 2V E0 head just yet.
You will need valve springs that will work on the head to at least 6000 rpm.
Most of those springs need an installed height of 1.700" with .500" valve lift and still have .075” before coil bind.
You may need longer valves.
Manley will make any size valve you need.

What is the distance from the valve spring retainer to the valve seat on the head presently?

d1da136ac85e6a4b3d3243d2057a8525.jpg


What is the valve stem diameter?
 
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Don't kill your 2V E0 head just yet.
You will need valve springs that will work on the head to at least 6000 rpm.
Most of those springs need an installed height of 1.700" with .500" valve lift and still have .075” before coil bind.
You may need longer valves.
Manley will make any size valve you need.

What is the distance from the valve spring retainer to the valve seat on the head presently?

d1da136ac85e6a4b3d3243d2057a8525.jpg


What is the valve stem diameter?
With the 280 cam, I'm thinking double springs, good move? But that would be correct, 6000rpm springs is a good move since the cam will go to 5800.

I don't have the head with me. I'm about to go to the machine shop so I can measure there.

If valve length is not a problem, what do you think about using 63 170 intake valves (1.522)? I happen to have a spare head laying around collecting dust that i don't ever plan to use. I could use the spare 1.75" valves i have from when I built the E0 head, have them pro flowed, then have the 1.522" valves for the exhaust. Bad idea?
 
Ryan, i would go with the 270 on the intake & the 280 on the exhaust.
I would also go with the SI valves for better flow. Don't forget the back cut the intake with a 30 degree to the lap in spot.
 

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Ryan, i would go with the 270 on the intake & the 280 on the exhaust.
I would also go with the SI valves for better flow. Don't forget the back cut the intake with a 30 degree to the lap in spot.
That may have been the cam I was looking at. 270-80H. The problem is, i have to gut my other head to get the SI valves. Otherwise I can't get them anymore. I called SI and they no longer make them
 
Ryan, you are making me dizzy with the multimale threads.:)
Haha, I'm getting busy again man. It's been a bit since I've done anything to the car. Also, would you recommend a 2300 sniper or keep the street avenger on it? I have both, but the steet avenger is on the car
 
Sorry I do not any knowledge about those...I have the Holley dominator mpefi with 6 ing. coils, still in boxes very pricey.
As long as i am above ground there is still hope. :)
 
Sorry I do not any knowledge about those...I have the Holley dominator mpefi with 6 ing. coils, still in boxes very pricey.
As long as i am above ground there is still hope. :)
Haha. My ex-boss has one of them dominators in his El Camino. I dont think he went with individual ignition coils though.

Also, since I'm pulling the rods to have them resized, should I have them peened as well? Give them the works? What all should get done? I was looking into the 1JZ rods but custom pistons are gonna take me out of my budget lol. This has been a spare-no-expense car and I'm starting to feel it lol.
 
Also, would you recommend a 2300 sniper or keep the street avenger on it? I have both, but the steet avenger is on the car
I have not used it, but my son put Holley Sniper on a '77 Dodge van and loves it. Constant correct mixtures, better economy and quick hot starts, which was an issue in the tight doghouse, was always flooded after parked hot. The street avenger is a sweet carb though. . that one's a hard call.
 
I have not used it, but my son put Holley Sniper on a '77 Dodge van and loves it. Constant correct mixtures, better economy and quick hot starts, which was an issue in the tight doghouse, was always flooded after parked hot. The street avenger is a sweet carb though. . that one's a hard call.
I had the sniper on it before and had a few issues with vacuum leaks from my 2V conversion (mill wasn't trammed apparently). I also had fuel pump issues not wanting to pull fuel despite being directly under the gas tank. However, if I do this again, I'm gonna do an in-tank pump and the aussie intake is made flat this time lol so hopefully no leaks.

But my street avenger does great with hot starts actually. I use the same return line i made for the sniper and it really helps. It keeps excess pressure off of the needle/seat.
 
At this point in time, it looks like I'll have to kill my 2V E0 head and take my 1.75/1.5 stainless port flows out of it and put them into the aussie.
Doesn't the US head use 5/16" valve stems while the Ausie 250 2V head uses 11/32" valve stems?

Where you going to use guide inserts to make up the difference?
 
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Paul, he has two threads going on, with over lapping subject matter, I feel like a Ping pong ball:) he covers that.
 
Haha. My ex-boss has one of them dominators in his El Camino. I dont think he went with individual ignition coils though.

Also, since I'm pulling the rods to have them resized, should I have them peened as well? Give them the works? What all should get done? I was looking into the 1JZ rods but custom pistons are gonna take me out of my budget lol. This has been a spare-no-expense car and I'm starting to feel it lol.
If you were planning on boost I would recommend the after mkt. 1jz rod. and do so for a high end built. If you plan to use the stock forged rod I would magnaflux, polish the beam , shot peen, arp bolts, resize and balance. The finished 1JZ look better all of a sudden.. If you search this forum and the net for ''polishing rod beam'' some good stuff will come up.
 
If valve length is not a problem, what do you think about using 63 170 intake valves (1.522)? I happen to have a spare head laying around collecting dust that i don't ever plan to use. I could use the spare 1.75" valves i have from when I built the E0 head, have them pro flowed, then have the 1.522" valves for the exhaust. Bad idea?
The US valves are only 4.26" long and may be shorter than the Aussie 250 head valves.
I don't know this for sure, but you will find out.

If it ends up being that you need a longer valve, I was looking at the Manley 11210-1 and the 11211-1 from Summit Racing.
 
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Doesn't the US head use 5/16" valve stems while the Ausie 250 2V head uses 11/32" valve stems?

Where you going to use guide inserts to make up the difference?
That would be correct. I was expecting to have to install new valve guides to fix it, but the machinist thinks we can find valves that fit the 11/32". So he's working on trying to find something close to 1.75 and 1.5.
 
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