Running without distributor

[Firebolt]

My engine project is slowly going forward and I have decided to make my 200 to run with EFI and wasted spark. So the question is, can I use the engine without the distributor? Can i just take it off and plug the hole, or should I do something with the axle?

If the oil pump somehow needs the distributor, I have already been looking for dry sump pump to make the engine as low as possible, but they are so expensive that this project might take a year or two more and in street car the stock pump should be fine.

I’m open to any ideas, for deleting the distributor or using it to something else. Thanks!

 

[bubba22349]

This is the method used by the site member "sameguy" in adapting the Ford EDIS waste spark system on his small Ford Six (see the below link). Yes you will need to have the bottom of the Distribitor to drive the oil pump off the camshaft unless you want go with a dry sump system. Check out all the posts showing this Ford EDIS swap it covers everything from start to finish and at a low cost too. Good luck.

Ford EDIS
viewtopic.php?f=98&t=67718&hilit=Ford+Edis#p518607

 

[Firebolt]

Thanks, I don’t know why I didn’t search for Edis. I might mod the distributor and go with it.

So let’s talk about the other route, removing the oil pump and distributor. What mods would the necessary to the engine?

 

[bubba22349]

The advantages of a Dry Sump Oiling System are numerous and the only real disadvantage is the cost. As far as setting up the engine there isn't that much needed internally just to remove the stock oil pump and drive shaft install the external oil pump and scavenge pumps sometimes these are mounted to the oil pan, use the drive system you want cam driven or the most common type is a cogged belt driven (Gilmer) and drive gears running off the crank pulley. Plumb the custom low profile oil pan and the engines lifter valley install an oil tank and if your cars going to be used in some extreme type racing (like road course or lots of running time an oil cooler too. Next depending on the amount of vacuum the system can pull when you get to around 8 to 10 Hg and more this would require a four or more stage pump system. At that point you could gain some Horsepower by using Low Tension / Low Drag Piston Ring Set plus the engine would also need to be sealed very well with good gaskets and seals so it can hold a vacuum or about 8 psi without leaking. i.e. So there's no outside air leaking in. In some cases again depending on the amount of vacuum pulled it might require Oilers to Cool the Piston Bottoms. Hope that's of some help