All Small Six Header for a 250

This relates to all small sixes

Clutch

New member
I am currently shopping for a header for my 250 and could use some input. I plan to just run single exhaust, probably 2.25" or 2.5", so I don't really need a dual outlet but that seems to be what they all are s I will have to add a y-pipe. It will be going into my '62 Fairlane and the 250 has been mildly built; head modified for a Webber with a 32/36 DGV, Clay Smith 264/274-110* cam with 1.6 adjustable rockers, compression will be around 9.25.

My first concern is the fit; Is the something I need to consider for the 250 because the headers are primarily for a 200? Like the starter location/bellhousing or taller deck height? Also, I believe the Fairlane has a "fair" amount of room for fit but maybe there is something I don't know about.

Second is brand/quality; VI seems to be out of stock right now, but there are tons of generic ones out there for around $120 on eBay and other places that look just like theirs with the shorter tubes. I am leaning towards the Clifford set, but not crazy about the price, it has longer tubes and I like the black finish. I don't need anything fancy but want something reliable and not prone to leaks or other problems because this is for a driver. I will spend the extra money if I have to to get something that works well and I wont have to mess with it all the time.

I am not totally against running a manifold if that seems to be a much better/easier/cheaper option, but I feel this engine would benefit from headers. I do have manifolds off of a '67 200 and a '78 250. Also, I am open to running dual but don't really feel it is worth it for the extra cost.

Thanks in advance on any advice!
 
Occasionally Hooker Long Tube Headers become available for the 250. Application I believe to be Maverick but may be fitted on early cars. Doubt if any available new, but used Hookers' on E-Bay and forums occasionally (not cheap) . There are other Headers made for 250 cars I've heard.

Hooker # 6602's are for 250 / Maverick and # 6601's for 200 (early) Mustang application (AFAIK)
Bellhouse / Starter/ steering clearances are different because stroker
250 is almost 2" taller at head/block.

.



the '61 / 250 / 6602's -*- '63 / 170 /6601's
.

have fun
 
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X2 The 250 Hooker headers are very hard to find now basically used or the occasional rare NOS sets they are one of the best ever made. In a 6 into one there is the 200 set made by Scott Drake C3OZ-9430-H but they are also a bit pricey. The speed daddy 200 headers are decent and very reasonable in price you can use a y pipe to turn them into a single out easy enough. Our ste member Lavern used them on his 250 Comet build by making some spacers of around 3/4 or 1 inch Aluminum material between the head and header plus the two gaskets (info is in his build thread) this spaced them for better fit and starter clearance. Here is one picture with them installed. https://cometcentral.com/photos/image/I23K
Check out his budget 250 engine build in the small six forum too and also the car build in the Falcon Nest forum. Best of luck
 
Also forgot that you had asked about the stock exhaust manifolds most of the early manifolds around 1966 down are kind of small for any 250 that’s built up for better street performance. So if your 1967 or 1978 exhaust manifolds have at least a 2 inch outlet then you could make tapered pipe (funnel shaped or transition of the head pipe) for adapting it into a 2 1/4 inch pipe. Another manifold that's much better and is often over looked is the 1980 to 1983 manifolds found on the fox chassis and other Ford and Mercury cars these will flow a lot better than any other stock exhaust manifold. They have a 4 1/2 inch outlet with a football shaped catalytic convertor that you can gut out and hook up to a single 2 1/2 or even a pair of 2 to 2 1/4 inch duel pipes if you wanted. Good luck.
 
Thanks for the info guys. Those long tube Hookers look nice. I ended up giving Clifford a call and he was very helpful. He does have a 250 specific header and it sounds like exactly what I need. It just was not listed on the website, at least not on the store side, it was in the catalogue. It was a bit more than I wanted to spend but I ordered it anyway. it is made of thick gauged steel and has a nice coating. Also the flange area around the center two ports seem to be wider, along with the gasket, where the stock gaskets commonly leak. It is dual outlet and comes with 2.25" hookups. I was also going to get a Y-pipe but he recommended just getting a dual inlet muffler instead and that sounded like a great idea. Magnaflow makes one that has dual 2.25" into a single 2.5" out that I think will work perfectly. I will update once I get them in and can see them for myself.
 
Excellent news Clutch, lets us know how they fit and work out in your Fairlane.
 
Thanks for the info guys. Those long tube Hookers look nice. I ended up giving Clifford a call and he was very helpful. He does have a 250 specific header and it sounds like exactly what I need. It just was not listed on the website, at least not on the store side, it was in the catalogue. It was a bit more than I wanted to spend but I ordered it anyway. it is made of thick gauged steel and has a nice coating. Also the flange area around the center two ports seem to be wider, along with the gasket, where the stock gaskets commonly leak. It is dual outlet and comes with 2.25" hookups. I was also going to get a Y-pipe but he recommended just getting a dual inlet muffler instead and that sounded like a great idea. Magnaflow makes one that has dual 2.25" into a single 2.5" out that I think will work perfectly. I will update once I get them in and can see them for myself.
@Clutch Have you received the Clifford header? Did it fit well? Pictures?
 
"...use a dual in, single out muffler. No y pipe needed...."
Suggested above. Wonder what that duz in terms of heat near floor pan/fire wall?

the Speed Dadd is similar (exact?) to 'our vendor' Vintage inlines as it has the nice "ball connectors" @ end. These are not long tubes. One was mentioned ina thread last wk. I used a mini starter as the 3.8 stang was a lill too tight in below 250/4.1. I don't want a rug or pad in mine (floor is smooth bed liner for spray out cleaning) and have designed a heat shield. Exhaust will be 4, 5 ft total as its going out rocker near pass's tire.
Nother thread here:
MSDS - Exhaust Systems
 
...but I feel this engine would benefit from headers.

Thanks in advance on any advice!
it will add 4 or 5 % to ur performance. (I did so for looks as our garage rat suggested it, & to put ina port divider).
Can't quite geta pic in mind abt the clifford's (long, shorties, the 3/4 cyl support mentioned). If there is no split flange in there @ the 3/4 I'd put in the cast wedge to support the gasket/split the gasses' flow. Called 'divider' (15 $ taba metal) to place in head between the 3 & 4 as it's just a big hole. The header has (usually) 2 pipes waiting... so a mis-match. We rod or tig in the divider, then, w/alots bench work, blend it to gasket'n pipes. If having a die grinder (pneumatic) or welder's 4 inch, it can go more quickly than a hand file. Un fortunatly I did not explain the bench wrk well enuff to a new commer and he did not push it far enuff back & ground way down past the gasket surface. He just cut it out'n started over, '2nd time's a charn'. Tack welds avoid cast iron damage, some use the hi-heat 'glue'. Many complain abt the ratteling several mo/mi down the road if it dislodges (Y I weld it in).
These 2 items seem to get the most controversery on performance as it is small and undocumented.
 
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