I'm trying to get the Mustang on the road within the next couple weeks, and wanted to bounce my plans off the internet.
I need to replace half my Nitril seals, bought new from VI after damaging them doing rust removal. Also bought a comp cams seal installer tool.
Install valves/springs/retainers. Maybe spring shims, I need to test install height spring pressures, one piece retainers add install height.
Smooth the combustion chamber edges with abrasive mandrels, they're super sharp and rough after it was milled.
Clean head/exhaust bolt bores with brake cleaner, chase with ARP 7/16-14 thread cleaning chaser and cutting fluid.
Cut and grind smooth the ARP stud that goes into the water jacket at the water pump. Should I treat the bare end with anything?
Get a new thermostat, make sure it's all the way open at 180 degrees, drill a small hole in it to pass air (need to look up the size).
Clean the mating surfaces with WD40/Scotch bright pads. Rough up surfaces with WD40/2000grit sanding sponge. Clean and vacuum any debris, clean surfaces with acetone.
Install four head studs hand tight, two at each end. The cut down water jacket stud gets Permatex thread sealant with PTFE 80632, the other three get the included bolt lube.
Place head gasket, then head, then the remaining 10 head studs with light lube, hand tight. Lube washers/nuts, torque them in sequence, 55/65/70-75ft/lbs.
Install adjustable valvetrain, ball/cup pushrods with assembly lube.
Install ARP exhaust studs (I bought Chevy studs that fit) between 12-24 ft-lbs. need to research that.
Drain gas tank (4-5 year old gas), disconnect fuel lines at all ends, and blow out with a compressor. New fuel filter, install new carb.
New coolant, fresh oil, gas.
Rebuilt RBS on the way, since I don't have time to hog out the intake for the BBD. Crossing fingers.
Debating on pulling the distributor and pressurizing the oil system with an electric drill.
It should run then, theoretically? I'll have to remember to add fluid to the T5, brakes were rebuilt so I'm hoping I'm not missing anything.
I need to replace half my Nitril seals, bought new from VI after damaging them doing rust removal. Also bought a comp cams seal installer tool.
Install valves/springs/retainers. Maybe spring shims, I need to test install height spring pressures, one piece retainers add install height.
Smooth the combustion chamber edges with abrasive mandrels, they're super sharp and rough after it was milled.
Clean head/exhaust bolt bores with brake cleaner, chase with ARP 7/16-14 thread cleaning chaser and cutting fluid.
Cut and grind smooth the ARP stud that goes into the water jacket at the water pump. Should I treat the bare end with anything?
Get a new thermostat, make sure it's all the way open at 180 degrees, drill a small hole in it to pass air (need to look up the size).
Clean the mating surfaces with WD40/Scotch bright pads. Rough up surfaces with WD40/2000grit sanding sponge. Clean and vacuum any debris, clean surfaces with acetone.
Install four head studs hand tight, two at each end. The cut down water jacket stud gets Permatex thread sealant with PTFE 80632, the other three get the included bolt lube.
Place head gasket, then head, then the remaining 10 head studs with light lube, hand tight. Lube washers/nuts, torque them in sequence, 55/65/70-75ft/lbs.
Install adjustable valvetrain, ball/cup pushrods with assembly lube.
Install ARP exhaust studs (I bought Chevy studs that fit) between 12-24 ft-lbs. need to research that.
Drain gas tank (4-5 year old gas), disconnect fuel lines at all ends, and blow out with a compressor. New fuel filter, install new carb.
New coolant, fresh oil, gas.
Rebuilt RBS on the way, since I don't have time to hog out the intake for the BBD. Crossing fingers.
Debating on pulling the distributor and pressurizing the oil system with an electric drill.
It should run then, theoretically? I'll have to remember to add fluid to the T5, brakes were rebuilt so I'm hoping I'm not missing anything.
