Ford 215 Basic Tune-up(and bolt on performance) Tips Needed

[53customline53]

I've recently been given my grandfathers 1953 Ford Customline. I've been going through everything to get it drivable. I got new tires. Adjusted the steering box. Inspected and adjusted brakes. Inspected and aligned front end. Now that it seems to be able to steer and stop safely I'd like to get it running good. It currently has no issue with cold or warm starts. Hit the key and it runs. But once it gets going it seems to run out of steam quickly. I realize this isnt a performance machine, but it definitely ran better a few years ago. About to do my first big "tune up" and wondering what all that should entail on this engine. I'm planning on plugs/wires/points/oil change/valve lash check. Am I missing anything? What's the deal with the oil bath filter? It looks cool, but is there a better option that might net a few more hp? Advice appreciated. Again, not expecting a miracle but I'd like to be able to get out and cruise at 60 without the car sounding like it hates me.

 

[bubba22349]

Congrats on getting your Grandfathers 53 Customline they great little cars up until 2014 I had a 1954 Customline with the 223 and 3 speed with Over Drive. The Oil Bath Filters are great all you need is the clean them up and than add fresh oil to the fill line you won't find any other Air Filter that is going to give you any more power and the little small chrome type ones will actually take some power away. With a regular 3 speed or an Auto Trans 60 MPH might be a bit much for it. Do you know what the Rear Axle Gear Ratio is that you have in the car? Its code is on the drivers Door Warrantee Tag Info. There are a good bit of Performance Parts still available for these engine too. Best of luck 1953 Ford Customline Base Prices when they were Sold New this is in 1953 Dollar Values
2 Door Sedan $1,582.00	​
4 Door Sedan $1,628.00	​
Club Coupe $1,591.00	​
Country Sedan 4 Door Wagon $2,076.00	​

Base 6 Cylinder (Serial No. Code A):

Cast-iron, Overhead valve design
215 cubic inch displacement
Compression ratio: 7.0:1
101 brake horsepower @ 3500 rpm
Bore: 3.56 Stroke: 3.60 inches
Holly Model 1904F single barrel carburetor
4 Main bearings
6 Volt Positive Ground Electrical system

These are the stock 1953 215 Six Tune Up Specs I have

Spark Plug Make: Champion H10
Spark Plug Gap, Inch: .035
Firing Order: 153624
Ignition Timing: Groove Vib. Damp.
Engine Idle Speed, RPM: Manual shift trans. 475; automatic shift trans. 450
Compression Pressure & Cranking Speed: 130 Min.

Distributor Vacuum Advance Data:
Degrees Advance:
at 500 RPM: 3-1/2 - 4-1/2, Inches vacuum: .50
at 1000 RPM: 8-1/4 - 9-1/4, Inches vacuum: 1.8
at 1500 RPM: 11-3/4 - 13, Inches vacuum: 3.8
at 2000 RPM: 14-1/2 - 15-3/4, Inches vacuum: 6.0
Breaker Gap, Inch: .024-.026
Condenser Capacity: .21-.25 Mfds.
Breaker Arm Spring Tension: 17-20 Oz.
Cam Angle: 36 degrees

When I do these tune ups I found that doing them in this order was the quickest way to a good Tune Up
1. Set the Spark Plug gap to the above spec first.
2. Set the Points to the Basic Gap setting first, then with the engine running check the point dwell setting and adjust as needed to bring it to the correct dwell specs.
3. Set the Base Ignition Timing.
4. Set the Valve Lash Setting this can be set to .019 either Cold or Hot I usually use the Hot setting with engine warmed up good. the Valve lash setting is very important and can cause the engine to be down on power by a considerable amount when they are too tight of a lash setting.
5. Check the choke operation with the position of the Choke Blade when fully open is centered and is pointing exactly straight up.
6. With the engine warmed up good and choke is wide open, now set the Carbs Mixture Screw Setting to the Lean Best Idle. To do this first set the mixture screw so you have the highest Idle RPM or if you are using a Vacuum Gauge then set it to the Highest Vacuum Reading on your vacuum gauge. Now turn the Mixture Screw inward one 1/4 tuner this is now set to the lean best idle.
7. Last thing to do is to set the Carbs Curb Idle RPM Spec.

I will also repeat the last two (6 & 7) again just to verify them and see if the setting will change any more. You might also check out your coils output too, you can know it's still in good condition when it has a strong "Bright Blue Spark" that can jump at least a 1/2 inch gap or more. Be sure that you check out all the Electrical Connections and also all the Grounds to make sure they are all nice and Clean of any Dirt, Crud, or Corrosion and that they are a nice & snug tight fit this is very important on the Stock 6 Volt Electrical Systems to have an excellent working electrical system and the best posable Engine Performance. One other thing to check out is the condition of the Intake & Exhaust Manifolds plus their Hold Down Bolts often on these engines these bolts will be loose from Vibration over time and then you will have Vacuum Leaks. Be sure to Soak those Bolts good for several days with some good Rust Pernitrate so you can turn them without breaking them, then Warm up the engine good and tighten them to spec I think this is about 23 to 28 Ft. Lbs. Torque if in doubt look up the Torque for their bolt size. Good luck

 

[manglass]

I think your list is comprehensive and following it through should give you a great tune up. Bubba has supplied all the specs you will need. You should carefully check the advance based on the information above. The vacuum advance is one of the weak points on this engine so make sure it's working close to as designed. Based on my experience you might also tighten up the breaker gap a little to about .019" or so.

Thinking about your comment "it seems to run out of steam quickly", you might want to have a look at fuel pump output if your tune up doesn't produce as much as you expect.

The oil filter can be replaced by a spin-on, afterwards it will take the standard Motorcraft FL-1 that fits all older Fords. Search "Ford 223 oil filter adapter." Here's the easy button:

Oil Filter Adaptor Kit - Spin On Type for 1952-64 Ford Trucks, Cars, and Tractors | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restorations

Oil Filter Adaptor Kit - Spin On Type Ford Trucks Cars Tractors 1953 1954 1955 1956 1957 1958 1959 1960 1961 1962 1963 1964 1952 Thunderbird Edsel F1 F2 F3 B7A6882A

www.dennis-carpenter.com

I don't think it will bring you any horsepower but it will be easier to change and easier to find.

Later on, you can try to "hot rod" it a little (ignition, intake manifold, headers, camshaft) or update to a later engine for more displacement. The easiest would be a 223. Since it's identical on the outside, anything you have for the 215 should fit and no one will know the difference. There is also a 262 but that's become more of an urban legend as it's almost impossible to find. If you want to learn more about performance, check out the Build Thread in this section entitled "Bench Racing Exercise..."

Good luck with it, if you have questions don't hesitate to ask.

Lou Manglass

 

[shocker998md]

I'm pretty happy with my 215 in my 52 but i just putt it along. Get the tune up in specs with what's above. Once those checks are good do a compression test along with putting a vacuam guage on it to see what it's doing.

 

[53customline53]

Congrats on getting your Grandfathers 53 Customline they great little cars up until 2014 I had a 1954 Customline with the 223 and 3 speed with Over Drive. The Oil Bath Filters are great all you need is the clean them up and than add fresh oil to the fill line you won't find any other Air Filter that is going to give you any more power and the little small chrome type ones will actually take some power away. With a regular 3 speed or an Auto Trans 60 MPH might be a bit much for it. Do you know what the Rear Axle Gear Ratio is that you have in the car? Its code is on the drivers Door Warrantee Tag Info. There are a good bit of Performance Parts still available for these engine too. Best of luck 1953 Ford Customline Base Prices when they were Sold New this is in 1953 Dollar Values
2 Door Sedan $1,582.00	​
4 Door Sedan $1,628.00	​
Club Coupe $1,591.00	​
Country Sedan 4 Door Wagon $2,076.00	​

Base 6 Cylinder (Serial No. Code A):

Cast-iron, Overhead valve design
215 cubic inch displacement
Compression ratio: 7.0:1
101 brake horsepower @ 3500 rpm
Bore: 3.56 Stroke: 3.60 inches
Holly Model 1904F single barrel carburetor
4 Main bearings
6 Volt Positive Ground Electrical system

These are the stock 1953 215 Six Tune Up Specs I have

Spark Plug Make: Champion H10
Spark Plug Gap, Inch: .035
Firing Order: 153624
Ignition Timing: Groove Vib. Damp.
Engine Idle Speed, RPM: Manual shift trans. 475; automatic shift trans. 450
Compression Pressure & Cranking Speed: 130 Min.

Distributor Vacuum Advance Data:
Degrees Advance:
at 500 RPM: 3-1/2 - 4-1/2, Inches vacuum: .50
at 1000 RPM: 8-1/4 - 9-1/4, Inches vacuum: 1.8
at 1500 RPM: 11-3/4 - 13, Inches vacuum: 3.8
at 2000 RPM: 14-1/2 - 15-3/4, Inches vacuum: 6.0
Breaker Gap, Inch: .024-.026
Condenser Capacity: .21-.25 Mfds.
Breaker Arm Spring Tension: 17-20 Oz.
Cam Angle: 36 degrees

When I do these tune ups I found that doing them in this order was the quickest way to a good Tune Up
1. Set the Spark Plug gap to the above spec first.
2. Set the Points to the Basic Gap setting first, then with the engine running check the point dwell setting and adjust as needed to bring it to the correct dwell specs.
3. Set the Base Ignition Timing.
4. Set the Valve Lash Setting this can be set to .019 either Cold or Hot I usually use the Hot setting with engine warmed up good. the Valve lash setting is very important and can cause the engine to be down on power by a considerable amount when they are too tight of a lash setting.
5. Check the choke operation with the position of the Choke Blade when fully open is centered and is pointing exactly straight up.
6. With the engine warmed up good and choke is wide open, now set the Carbs Mixture Screw Setting to the Lean Best Idle. To do this first set the mixture screw so you have the highest Idle RPM or if you are using a Vacuum Gauge then set it to the Highest Vacuum Reading on your vacuum gauge. Now turn the Mixture Screw inward one 1/4 tuner this is now set to the lean best idle.
7. Last thing to do is to set the Carbs Curb Idle RPM Spec.

I will also repeat the last two (6 & 7) again just to verify them and see if the setting will change any more. You might also check out your coils output too, you can know it's still in good condition when it has a strong "Bright Blue Spark" that can jump at least a 1/2 inch gap or more. Be sure that you check out all the Electrical Connections and also all the Grounds to make sure they are all nice and Clean of any Dirt, Crud, or Corrosion and that they are a nice & snug tight fit this is very important on the Stock 6 Volt Electrical Systems to have an excellent working electrical system and the best posable Engine Performance. One other thing to check out is the condition of the Intake & Exhaust Manifolds plus their Hold Down Bolts often on these engines these bolts will be loose from Vibration over time and then you will have Vacuum Leaks. Be sure to Soak those Bolts good for several days with some good Rust Pernitrate so you can turn them without breaking them, then Warm up the engine good and tighten them to spec I think this is about 23 to 28 Ft. Lbs. Torque if in doubt look up the Torque for their bolt size. Good luck

Much appreciated sir. Car currently has a regular 3spd and 3.90s. I have an overdrive trans. Just need to get it shipped to me and pick up the 12v relay and solenoid(12v conversion was done in the 80s). Trying to get everything dialed in well brake/steering/suspension wise before I get into any bigger projects though. When I can run it at 50 comfortably and get tolerable steering and braking, I'll focus on my freeway goals. That being said, is OD and 3.90s enough to cruise at 65?

 

[53customline53]

I'm pretty happy with my 215 in my 52 but i just putt it along. Get the tune up in specs with what's above. Once those checks are good do a compression test along with putting a vacuam guage on it to see what it's doing.

I'm more than happy to putt along. I wish I had the backroads and state highways my grandpa had with it in Illinois. But I would feel a lot safer getting on the freeway if I could do the speed limit, lol. The car has been great at trips around town and a long backroad cruise today as far as power goes. But there are only so many places I can go in Southern California without jumping on a freeway. I'd like to be able to hop in the car and go to events in L.A. or possibly Arizona. Hoping to hit it hard this weekend and get it running tip top or at least have whatever problems I encounter diagnosed.

 

[53customline53]

I think your list is comprehensive and following it through should give you a great tune up. Bubba has supplied all the specs you will need. You should carefully check the advance based on the information above. The vacuum advance is one of the weak points on this engine so make sure it's working close to as designed. Based on my experience you might also tighten up the breaker gap a little to about .019" or so.

Thinking about your comment "it seems to run out of steam quickly", you might want to have a look at fuel pump output if your tune up doesn't produce as much as you expect.

The oil filter can be replaced by a spin-on, afterwards it will take the standard Motorcraft FL-1 that fits all older Fords. Search "Ford 223 oil filter adapter." Here's the easy button:

Oil Filter Adaptor Kit - Spin On Type for 1952-64 Ford Trucks, Cars, and Tractors | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restorations

Oil Filter Adaptor Kit - Spin On Type Ford Trucks Cars Tractors 1953 1954 1955 1956 1957 1958 1959 1960 1961 1962 1963 1964 1952 Thunderbird Edsel F1 F2 F3 B7A6882A

www.dennis-carpenter.com

I don't think it will bring you any horsepower but it will be easier to change and easier to find.

Later on, you can try to "hot rod" it a little (ignition, intake manifold, headers, camshaft) or update to a later engine for more displacement. The easiest would be a 223. Since it's identical on the outside, anything you have for the 215 should fit and no one will know the difference. There is also a 262 but that's become more of an urban legend as it's almost impossible to find. If you want to learn more about performance, check out the Build Thread in this section entitled "Bench Racing Exercise..."

Good luck with it, if you have questions don't hesitate to ask.

Lou Manglass

Thanks I appreciate the info and words of encouragement. I cant see myself replacing the 215 with another 215/223. When that time comes, it's getting a modern inline or a SBF.

 

[bubba22349]

Much appreciated sir. Car currently has a regular 3spd and 3.90s. I have an overdrive trans. Just need to get it shipped to me and pick up the 12v relay and solenoid(12v conversion was done in the 80s). Trying to get everything dialed in well brake/steering/suspension wise before I get into any bigger projects though. When I can run it at 50 comfortably and get tolerable steering and braking, I'll focus on my freeway goals. That being said, is OD and 3.90s enough to cruise at 65?

Yes the Over Drive Trans will sure help you to be able to do that.

 

[Bill56]

If it sat up for a long time before you got it there could be all sorts of rust a crud in the fuel tank, fuel line and filter sock in the tank.
That would cause it to run OK until it sucked enough of it into the sock, filter or what ever other restriction it might have to reduce flow.
It could have enough to make it stop and yet restart after it quits and the crud falls back down into the tank.
I'd try at least a can of carb cleaner in the tank to be sure.

Also don't be so sure an old six won't get the job done.
A bone stock '58 223 @ 145 HP is a bunch more then the original 101 and would be a simple bolt in swap.
A few demon tweaks before it goes in and it's into base SB territory without needing to change mounts or make anything fit.

 

[53customline53]

If it sat up for a long time before you got it there could be all sorts of rust a crud in the fuel tank, fuel line and filter sock in the tank.
That would cause it to run OK until it sucked enough of it into the sock, filter or what ever other restriction it might have to reduce flow.
It could have enough to make it stop and yet restart after it quits and the crud falls back down into the tank.
I'd try at least a can of carb cleaner in the tank to be sure.

Also don't be so sure an old six won't get the job done.
A bone stock '58 223 @ 145 HP is a bunch more then the original 101 and would be a simple bolt in swap.
A few demon tweaks before it goes in and it's into base SB territory without needing to change mounts or make anything fit.

Thanks for reminding me to check out the fuel system. From what I can see the tank looks clean inside. I should have time to give it a few hours this weekend.

 

[Bill56]

A lot of people overlook the sock.
It can come back to bite you on the ass.

 

[Frank]

Thanks for reminding me to check out the fuel system. From what I can see the tank looks clean inside. I should have time to give it a few hours this weekend.

Welcome! What a great classic car, and in the family makes them even more special. . Old distributors' moving parts will get stiff with time, and cause less or no advance, which is critical to high speed power. When you go in to tune the points, make sure the breaker plate moves freely so the vacuum advance will operate. Clean and lightly lube what needs it, then verify that the diaphragm is holding vacuum and moving the plate. If it has centrifugal advance, (?) twist the rotor back and forth, make sure its returning to the stops. Lubricate the weights and bushings. 215 cubes with 3.90 gear is plenty of power for freeway driving, when valves, fuel and spark are working correctly.

 

[Lazy JW]

Much appreciated sir. Car currently has a regular 3spd and 3.90s. I have an overdrive trans. Just need to get it shipped to me and pick up the 12v relay and solenoid(12v conversion was done in the 80s). Trying to get everything dialed in well brake/steering/suspension wise before I get into any bigger projects though. When I can run it at 50 comfortably and get tolerable steering and braking, I'll focus on my freeway goals. That being said, is OD and 3.90s enough to cruise at 65?

You will truly love using that overdrive setup That said, your stock 3spd and 3.90s will easily cruise at 65 when it is running right; and if it isn't running right it will be even worse when you shift into overdrive.