All Small Six Engine codes

This relates to all small sixes

dmc1

Active member
Can any one tell me any thing about this engine from these engine and manifold codes.Would be most helpful.
 

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Well for that part of the Head code "C8DE-6090" that I can see its at least a 1968 year Model Log Head so a small Log version. Can't see enough to be able to read the Casting Date Code is behind it the one that looks like a small metal plate and has the Straight Blade Screw Heads on each end of it. If you can read it that would tell you the exact day that it was cast at the Ford Engine Foundry. As for the Block the numbers you posted don't mean much could of been done by someone other than Ford you need to look for the same type numbers on the Passenger side as an example would be something like this C8DE-6015-A, and then also the casting date code. What is the number of Freeze Plugs that you have on the side of the Block? Good luck
 
Thanks bubba Some one has said this is for sale and its in the uk. I know not a lot about these engines but looking to replace my dead straight 6, 65 mustang engine. You did answer my post regarding engine codes. That was very helpful. The engine i first posted about is in califonia and is going to cost 1000 dollas to send to the uk. This one is a 250. So thinking might be ok to drop in. Comes with manual transmision so was thinking could the bellhousing be changed on tarans boxes but will have to go and see.
 

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Hi dmc1, Assuming that this engine has its original parts still that would also be a 1968 engine so it's either a 170 Cu. In. or a 200 Cu. In. So that's the only question left to answer, and I could tell right away if could see the other side of the block. The Tell Tale signs that I can see in your picture are that it has a 1968 Point Distributor and the later style Fuel Pump, its a Duel Bolt Pattern Block, it also has the Larger Flywheel and 9 Inch Clutch and would use the Larger Bell Housing with them these are very good parts and will work with the super strong and more fun to drive "All Synchro" Top Loader 3 Speed. I would jump on it has a lot of good parts on that short block.
 
A 250 Six like a 200 Six will also have 5 Freeze Plugs but is easy to tell it from a 200 it will have 4 bolts holding on the water Pump were all of the other Small Ford Six's will only have 3. I like the 250's lots of extra torque though its a little harder to fit them into the 1965 / 1966 Mustang's they are a little taller and a little bit longer they will fit though. I think the guy is maybe mistaken as from what I can see of the rear of the block it looks like a smaller 200 or 170 Six. The first year for the 250 was also in 1969 so the Block and head number would need to be something like a C9DE-6015-A and those heads are also the better Larger Logs I will be looking forward to seeing the other pictures. Best of luck
 
Hi bubba
Some one has sent these pics. He is saying is a 200. Would you say could be 200 or 170 But would replace my 65 straight 6 200cu that has died. Last picture is the code on my dead engine. C5DE 6015-H.
 

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That one looks like its has a T on the front of the Block below the head deck that would make it a 170 Six. Yes it could be bolted into your Mustang, but it would have considerably less power than your stock 200 that died did. What happened to the one from yesterday?
 
I have mailed the guy for mor info.He not got back to me.He said is sat in a shed for a few years, so i have asked him does it turn over by hand. I need to go see it
That one looks like its has a T on the front of the Block below the head deck that would make it a 170 Six. Yes it could be bolted into your Mustang, but it would have considerably less power than your stock 200 that died did. What happened to the one from yesterday?
Got a reply from the guy with C4OE 6015-A Code on block he said it has 5 freeze plugs so must be a 200cu.
 
Yes he is right all 200 Six's have the 5 Freeze Plugs on the side of the block, ok so that's even better that it's a 200 six! That would be one of the very first of the 200 sixes that Ford made for the debut of the special 1963 1/2 models to kick off their Total Performance Program. These 200 sixes were only used up to 1964 1/2 they are quite rare to see nowadays. They will only have the 4 Main Crankshaft as a comparison your 1965 that has the much improved 7 Main Crankshaft and beefed up short block assembly, otherwise they both have about the same stock engine performance. Most of those early 200's were put in the 1963 1/2 to early 1964 Fairlane's and the Mercury Monarch's but a few were also an optional engine put into the Falcons & Comets in the 1964 models that I have personally seen but could of maybe also been installed in the Debut of the two new Falcon models in 1963 1/2 Falcon Futura Fastback Hardtops and Convertibles that were launched mid year in February 1963. I don't think nor have I heard that any that of these early 200 sixes being used in the first Mustangs but they were for sale on April 17, 1964, so it's possible that some of them were built. In any case that early 200 Six would be just about a direct bolt in to your Mustang with maybe only a few of the external parts to swap over from your 1965 engine to that 1964 200 six engine. Also all your current Bell housing, Flywheel, Clutch, and Transmission parts will also bolt right on. In the picture the Block Date Code 5F2 decodes to June 2, 1965, the Log Head looks to be an unusual and much earlier 1963 C3OE-6090-DX10 Design / Casting Number I cant make out the casting Date Code on it though.
 
do not believe ANY 1 on what the motor is.
KNOW
yourself (how to ID). Thus U can ask them for these markers (3 or 4). The state of ownership does not mean they know.

1) tech archive above has the 3 or 4

2) 'the Handbook'
the-ford-falcon-six-cylinder-performance-handbook

bubs has listed some above. # H2O pump bolts, # frz plugs, "T" on block pad driver's side frnt, casting codes on R or pass's side behind the down tube of the exhaust. One step better? bubba can ID the "day born" by those ltrs/numbers between the 2 screw-head-looking castings. Buy w/certainty. 250 (4.1L stroked for tq) or 200 (3.3L bore 368, stroke 313) to rev higher. Nuttin wrong wid da 170/2.8L (154 ft/lbs, done in '72) as I ran one in the woods 38 yr haulin saw logs upa 300foot gradient from the swamp to mill w/a lill carter YF carb. You'll like any of them, just know whatcha got, whatja buy (negotiating power, later up grades of oem parts). Let us know any sourcing assistance (other side of the pond) we can provide. And a late:

W E L C O M E !!!
 
do not believe ANY 1 on what the motor is.
KNOW
yourself (how to ID). Thus U can ask them for these markers (3 or 4). The state of ownership does not mean they know.

1) tech archive above has the 3 or 4

2) 'the Handbook'
the-ford-falcon-six-cylinder-performance-handbook

bubs has listed some above. # H2O pump bolts, # frz plugs, "T" on block pad driver's side frnt, casting codes on R or pass's side behind the down tube of the exhaust. One step better? bubba can ID the "day born" by those ltrs/numbers between the 2 screw-head-looking castings. Buy w/certainty. 250 (4.1L stroked for tq) or 200 (3.3L bore 368, stroke 313) to rev higher. Nuttin wrong wid da 170/2.8L (154 ft/lbs, done in '72) as I ran one in the woods 38 yr haulin saw logs upa 300foot gradient from the swamp to mill w/a lill carter YF carb. You'll like any of them, just know whatcha got, whatja buy (negotiating power, later up grades of oem parts). Let us know any sourcing assistance (other side of the pond) we can provide. And a late:

W E L C O M E !!!
Chad thank you very much for the links, they has given me a lot of info I never new. One thing I am wondering about what automatic transmission will fit the 250. Any info is much appreciated.
 
after ID that it is in fact an 250 - U will by then have covered more written info (essential in this cross ocean process). You'll C that the odd ball 250 (not an i6 'sm block', not an i6 'big blk') will havea S B F bell. It takes any similar patterened tranny (my #2 reason for choice ina bronk) to the 289, 300, 302, 5 oh, 351 and so forth (my choice 4 da Brit sts is an AOD).


I'll say the same as bubba: Y is the current motor "dead"? U may not need 2 motors w/a local machine shop. Unlike humans tho - 2 heads R beddah den one !!!
 
Chad thanks for the info. My engine was rebuilt new pistons and new liners but one of rhe new liners gave up. I have not had the head of. I put a camera down into it and it was mashed up. Guys in machine shop said it 50/50 if it will work and it run for a hour then died.
 

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has any 1 diagnosed why the failure?

I believe it can be rebuilt again but dont know liner size, issue, or what is left of the boar.

Like to hear more on these points if willing to go into that. A "it has a 50/50 chance of working" is
not enuff for me to run a new rebuild...
 
The guys who rebuilt it did not want to carry on when that happened.They put 3 new liners in. They said there was not much left for the liner and it could work or it could fail. The crank won't turn so I am presuming it's dislodged. My friend who lets me do work on it in his garage says it's gone..I am trying to get it in to take head off and see damage. But my friend is only there 9 to 5 and once a month on a Saturday so hopefully I can get it in one wk end.
 
Ahhh... I know ur situation well. Got pretty much the same here. It has + and -. Mine -
a free garage w/everything inc a man of 40, 50 yrs experience. Pretty much at his whim on
scheduling plus I contribute to the shop's income w/barter doing any/everything @ there.
Not too bad for a semi-retired guy (own 'office wrk' 4 days a wk) but as said - at the whim
of my friend.

During tear down measure/record tolerances. This will help U decide on need for different motor,
v nother rebuild of this one. If viable you can go w/50% chances again. I wouldn't. That seems like
throwin away $ (& time) to me. Do it right (everything needed to assure success) or go with something U can
assure more success. This is Y I had mine machined & all new as needed. All the time (& investment:$)
I didn't want to guess on if it'd wrk or not. I had to use paper'n pencil (record/math) to decide. HTH ~
 
Ahhh... I know ur situation well. Got pretty much the same here. It has + and -. Mine -
a free garage w/everything inc a man of 40, 50 yrs experience. Pretty much at his whim on
scheduling plus I contribute to the shop's income w/barter doing any/everything @ there.
Not too bad for a semi-retired guy (own 'office wrk' 4 days a wk) but as said - at the whim
of my friend.

During tear down measure/record tolerances. This will help U decide on need for different motor,
v nother rebuild of this one. If viable you can go w/50% chances again. I wouldn't. That seems like
throwin away $ (& time) to me. Do it right (everything needed to assure success) or go with something U can
assure more success. This is Y I had mine machined & all new as needed. All the time (& investment:$)
I didn't want to guess on if it'd wrk or not. I had to use paper'n pencil (record/math) to decide. HTH ~
Have to find a engine that is running. Guy in California has one it's 750$ then 1000 delivery cost. Without knowing what I will get.
 
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