All Small Six Carb choice!

[hobbes66]

Ive been reading the classic inline articles regarding the 2v modification to the log head on a 200 and i am moving in that direction. Its come time to choose a carb however and like so many things with these performance modifications for the 200 the choices are overwhelming and answers are not clear cut.

it appears that classic inlines have high praises for the weber 32/36 and 38/38s......

Ive considered going the holley sniper 2300 route but im on the fence about if the cost really comes out to be worth it in the end, they probably have their own host of potential issues vs a carb......nevermind that somehow it seems sacrilegious to start installing EFI and computer chips into a nearly 60 year old car lol.



does anyone have passionate opinions about the ideal Carb for the 2v conversion????

 

[Cox Custom Mechanical]

For drivability a Weber is the best choice, tuned properly it will be just as good as the EFI and half the price.

 

[hobbes66]

this is what the consensus seems to be. People really like their webers for these engines!

How do you feel about the 32/36 vs the 38/38?

Additionally - the manual vs electric choke option available for them. Does anyone have strong feelings regarding these two options??? Im leaning towards manual to cut down on potential turn off issues. Ill have to learn

I believe my stock autolite has some sort of heat tube coming up from the manifold or something that must be operating the choke.....i dont have any wires coming off the carb but i also dont have a lever or anything coming into cabin to operate. Ive noticed that it stays on for quite some time upon start up no matter what time of the year it is, like 15 minutes typically. seems like an excessive amount of time

 

[Frank]

For drivability a Weber is the best choice, tuned properly it will be just as good as the EFI and half the price.

A second solid choice is Rochester 2G "small base". These 280 cfm carbs atomize very well, keep their tune and get great economy. The base has a small footprint, and the airhorn fits a 1 barrel airfilter housing.
On a small Ford 6 not sure about linkage arrangement.

operating the choke....., like 15 minutes typically. seems like an excessive amount of time

It is way too long.

 

[Kritas]

I installed a Weber 38 after screwing around with the knockoff Autolite 1100 that came with the car. I used a VI adapter with a Lokar cable and a 69 Mustang pedal. It's a huge improvement, particularly since I also have a 250 large log head with headers and a 2.25" exhaust.

 

[powerband]

" ... the choices are overwhelming and answers are not clear cut. "
'as with any intake setup !.
.

the big difference is the 38/38 is Synchronous - both of the 2 (38) barrels operate together for maximum performance on a suitably built engine.
.
The 32/36 is a Progressive 2 Bbl with a small primary (smaller than most OEM 1 bbl's) , with the second barrel (36) only opening at @ 2/3 WOT.
a popular option to the 32/36 is the ( Weber licensed) Holley/Weber 5200 etc carbs used on all kinds of 4 and 6 cylinder cars until fuel injection took it's place. Identical in operation and many parts, the 5200 series is aimed more towards drivability and MPG than the all out 38/38 performance.

32/36 and 5200's have various linkage , chokes , fuel inlets, jetting, etc depending on application many have "coolant choke"

.

70's Capri V6 OEM H/W 5200 on the '63 wagon with a $15 adaptor @ 10 years with great drivability ...
.
.

hav fun

 

[hobbes66]

I installed a Weber 38 after screwing around with the knockoff Autolite 1100 that came with the car. I used a VI adapter with a Lokar cable and a 69 Mustang pedal. It's a huge improvement, particularly since I also have a 250 large log head with headers and a 2.25" exhaust.

youll have to excuse my total ignorance. But why did you install a 69 mustang pedal to make this swap? you installed this pedal to complete the linkage from the carb to your pedal? Is it not possible to install a weber onto a 66 and leave the gas pedal as is?

 

[Kritas]

youll have to excuse my total ignorance. But why did you install a 69 mustang pedal to make this swap? you installed this pedal to complete the linkage from the carb to your pedal? Is it not possible to install a weber onto a 66 and leave the gas pedal as is?

Sorry, that was probably information not relevant to your conversion. After installing headers, the throttle linkage didn't fit. The '69 pedal is better suited for use with the Lokar cable after a slight modification.

 

[hobbes66]

Oooooh I see. Ok woof yeah i hope i dont have to contend with that. I do have the vintageinline headers ready to swap in, I suppose if they get in the way ill have to re-evaluate and go from there

 

[Kritas]

Oooooh I see. Ok woof yeah i hope i dont have to contend with that. I do have the vintageinline headers ready to swap in, I suppose if they get in the way ill have to re-evaluate and go from there

I detailed my path with pics in my build thread in the Mustang Corral section of the forum. It might give you some ideas.

 

[clochard68]

Additionally - the manual vs electric choke option available for them.

With the Webers you also have the option of a water choke. I did get the water choke but haven't run it yet...
You can operate it with some t-fittings to the heater hoses.

 

[Kritas]

I wasn't aware of the water choke. I like the idea a lot.

 

[hobbes66]

woah. Yeah look at that.

with all the extra connections and hosing going all over......i cant imagine its worth it over an electric setup. right?

 

[hobbes66]

Well i think its decided. the 38 is the way to go. perhaps mileage will go out the window compared to the 32/36 but this is all about performance

Does anyone have a recommendation on where to purchase one?

ill probably get the 2v adapter and spacers from matt over at vintageinlines but it appears that hes out of the carb itself unfortunately....

 

[Kritas]

I bought mine from Pierce Manifold.

 

[chad]

late commin in, thnx 4 leavin door open.
I'd consider the 2100 if goin 2v. Best 2v made - to me.
DGV's ok too. & U consider the sniper as well?
Choices, choices...
One ALL ways considers application in automotive choices SO0o...
"What is the end use of the vehicle?"

 

[Kritas]

woah. Yeah look at that.

with all the extra connections and hosing going all over......i cant imagine its worth it over an electric setup. right?

Re: Water vs electric chokes: The water choke responds to changing engine temperature it reduces the choke as the engine warms. The electric choke simply heats an element and reduces the amount of choke as it does. The amount of time is preset in the element.

 

[powerband]

BTW - depending on how car is used, a choke is necessary if often driven in freezing temps. the '63/170 has a H/W 5200 progressive 2Bbl with NO choke , requires a few accel' pumps to start and let warm before using maximum powerband ...


Unfortunately for a few months of freezing weather here, road salt / sand is applied before, during and after an 'event'. Until Spring rains, my favorites don't get much use needing a choke . Barn doesn't have a driveway and is snowed in til the thaw ...
.

 

[chad]

"...it depends on your car... setup...."
Love hearing from folks. I could never go for the water choke. Thnx 4 da info.

I use the ele (wire went to stator lug on Alt. & was very unobtrusive). I havea
solid state now I'll go back to stator. This IS too OBtrusive.

I like a closed PCV system, ele choke to have nother 'closed loop'. No choke
stove to bring up 'durty air' into the system. They wrk great, no handle to pull.
If tending toward oe I'd think of 1 as they are nother eye candy in the dash.

 

[Frank]

BTW - depending on how car is used, a choke is necessary if often driven in freezing temps. the '63/170 has a H/W 5200 progressive 2Bbl with NO choke , requires a few accel' pumps to start and let warm before using maximum powerband

Same here. Until this latest carb (Holley 390) I've not used a choke on my dailies in decades. A few seconds of "acc pump patting" the gas at cold-start, and drive off. A water choke and hot-air choke are way too slow in this mild climate. The electrics have worked best. Had to convert hot air on a YF to electric on my wife's daily. Use 100% voltage, and the choke is fully unloaded in about one minute. Anything longer = stumbling rich.
It seems that a water choke would be incredibly slow and wasteful of fuel. 0% chance of considering it down here in the south.

Re: Water vs electric chokes: The water choke responds to changing engine temperature it reduces the choke as the engine warms. The electric choke simply heats an element and reduces the amount of choke as it does. The amount of time is preset in the element.

Living where you do, anything more than 1-2 minutes of choke is flooding the engine. How long does the water take to heat up? Maybe in the artic- Alabama, no way is water choke going to be quick enough. (Strictly an opinion, based on warm climate experience.)