200ci Autolite vaccum
- Thread starter Hermitte
- Start date
This applies only to 200ci
There won’t be any Vacuum at Idle RPM’s, the only thing in play at Idle is the Base Timing that the Distributor has been set at. The Load O Matic Vacuum Advance system works completely different than any other Vacuum System. You can read about how a LOM system works at this link. https://fordsix.com/ci/Loadomatic.html
Did you test your Distributors Vacuum Advance Canisters condition? Will it hold a Vacuum?
Hi Hermitte, that above pictured Distributor is a newer Duel Advance Point Distributor it is a good one to use though its not what was OEM on a 1965 Mustang. A 1964 1/2 to 1967 Autolite 1100 Carb with a SCV is not used with that newer Distributor this is a Miss Match of Parts, you would need to use a 1968 to 1969 Autolite Carb or you could mod the Carb to remove the SCV function. Do you have a picture of the Carb?
yes the number on the block shows that the engine was changed to a 1968 engine with a 1969 head which complicates matters. There was an autolite 1101 (which no longer works) with a large opening and the distributor pictured. I can't find an 1101 to buy so I put an 1100 that I had in stock. I also have a load-o-matic dispenser in stock that I was planning to place.I will take a picture of the Carburetor
On the photos n1/2 the distributor and the carburettor installed. On the photo n3 the carburettor which I think is the original one of the engine. And on the n4 the distributor which I have in stock. Which combination is best for my engine?
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Hi Hermitte, this is actually a very good combination of parts I.E. the 1968 short block and the 1969 Head along with your 1968 ? 1969 point Distribitor.
Yes this older Autolite 1100 carb is a major problem since it's not going to play nice with the later model distributor.
The Best Combo for your engine is to either keep using the 1968 / 69 Distributor which is still a decent working point unit or if you wanted to up grade it some you could also use a Pertronix electronic Kit and then add their Flame-Thrower Coil for a hot'er spark at a reasonable cost. You could also go with a newer DuraSpark II Electronic Distributor for a very good improvement also on a lower budget this has been a big favorite of mine that I have done for many years on my own and customer car's and truck's, there are also quite a few other ignition choices too.
For the Carb the 1968 or 69 Autolite 1101 is a very good Carb for your combo of parts if you could find a good one or rebuild the one you have. After this many years the Throttle shaft on the Linkage side can be worn out causing a bad Vacuum Leak there are Bushing Kits to repair the Carb body back to good working condition.
There a couple of other late model 1V Carbs that are a bolt on to your large Log Head, the later Model Carter YFA or RBS that Ford used on the 1970's 200's and 250 Six's you have to watch on the Throttle linkage Arm Pivot Position though as some will use a Push type Linkage and some use a Cable Linkage to pull them. Both types can work very well if you don't mind changing over to the right Linkage as needed. Lastly there are some 2V Carb upgrades so depending on your goals for your Mustang that can also work too.
Here is what you can do right now disconnect the Distributors Vacuum Advance at the Carb and plug that off. Now get a fitting or fittings so that you can hook up the Distributor's Vacuum Advance straight into the Manifold Vacuum of the Log Head usually they will have a Tapped Boss and some fittings or a Plug capping it off that you can use for your Distributors Vacuum Advance Source. If you need help on this and want to post a picture of the 1969 Large Log Head I can point it out better.
Here is the Stock Basic Tune Up Info for the 200 six Engine Combo you have, its done in this order.
Engine should have good Compression in all cylinders if in doubt do a Compression Test. The Fuel Pumps PSI is 4 1/2.
1. Spark Plugs are Gaped to .034
2. Set the Point Gap to 0.027 if you have a way to set the Dwell to 38 Degrees this is an even better setting.
3. Now you can set the Base Timing to 6 Degrees BTDC for a manual Trans Car or 12 Degree BTDC for an Automatic Trans
4. With the engine warmed up good set the Carb to its Lean Best Idle. To do this turn the mixture screw out until you have found the highest Idle RPM. Now turn the Idle Mixture Screw back in 1/4 Turn to lean it.
5. Next set The Curb Idle RPM to 650 RPM for a Manual Trans and 550 RPM for an Auto Trans with it in Drive and the Parking Brake set and the wheels chocked or better yet have a friend put their foot on the brake for you.
Best of luck
I seen that I forgot to answer you about the Duel Vacuum Ports on the Distributor Vacuum Canister, yours looking at the other picture is connected correctly for use in your 1965 Model Mustang you only need to use the front most Vacuum Port the Rear one is for retarding of the Ignition Timing (this was part of the Emissions Equipment used on the 1968 & 69 Ford Models) and for your use the rear port is not used. You can test to see that your Vacuum Advance is in good working condition by using a Vacuum Pump if you have one to see if the point plate in the distributor moves advancing the timing and holds it in place, if it does not than the Vacuum Canister will need to be replaced. If you don't have a Vacuum Pump to use than you can do it the old school low budget way by hooking up a new vacuum hose to the Distributor Canister and sucking on the hose watching to see if the the Point Plate moves now put your tough over the hose end or pinch it shut with a vise grip does the Point Plate still stay Advanced? If it dose then its all good and your done with the test, if not than you would need to replace the Vacuum Canister in that case you can just get the single Vacuum Canister used on the later 1970 to 1974 point distributors (see below Picture) they are completely interchangeable.
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Yes that is correct they are a fairly common part here in the US available at Auto Parts and Hardware Stores. The threads in your head are a 1/ 4 inch US Pipe Thread or NPT this stands for National Pipe Thread. Here is a link to a T type Fitting with a 1/4 inch male thread to go into your Log Heads Port and with 2 1/4 inch Female threaded ports to use as hook up points there are also some made with 3 ports too if you needed more than just one more hook up. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-227400
If you can find a T that has the 1/8 Pipe Thread Ports to hook up even better if not you might need a couple of these 1/4 inch pipe to 1/8 inch Pipe reducing Bushings. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-220420
I think this might be the right size fitting to hook up your Distributor's Vacuum Advance Hose to, it has a 3/16 inch hose end, you might find on that's 1/4 inch pipe thread too. Good luck. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-697000
If you can find a T that has the 1/8 Pipe Thread Ports to hook up even better if not you might need a couple of these 1/4 inch pipe to 1/8 inch Pipe reducing Bushings. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-220420
I think this might be the right size fitting to hook up your Distributor's Vacuum Advance Hose to, it has a 3/16 inch hose end, you might find on that's 1/4 inch pipe thread too. Good luck. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-697000
I appreciate all that you have done for so many people on this forum, and I admire your broad and deep knowledge in all things related to the Ford six family of engines. But I was just setting up an improved fitting situation on the two heads I have, and the manifold port was not tapped for a 1/8" thread, but 1/4". A 1/8" fitting may be fine for the distributor vacuum line hose barb off of the manifold tee fitting, but the manifold is probably not a 1/8 NPT port.
Thank you for correcting me TrickSix, the last 7 years I haven't had any small six Log Head cores so am happy to have someone verify what the correct size is. I will correct my above post too.
When I look at the picture of your original 1101 carburetor, I see that the fitting for the distributor vacuum line is not installed in the side of the carb. Maybe you took it out to put on the 1100. But that big brass tube sticking out of the upper side of the 1101 is not the distributor vacuum source. It is the clean air supply for the choke hot air tube. If you use it for distributor vacuum it won't work right.
But you can't use a SCV Carb to operate your newer distributors Vacuum advance unless you mod it. On the Autolite 1100 Carbs there is a simple way to convert it over to ported Vacuum for use with your Distributors Vacuum Advance this is the Drop A Load Mod if you want to learn how here is the link. https://fordsix.com/threads/delete-scv-on-1100-autolite-for-ported-vacuum.76821/
