All Small Six HEI Distributor issue

This relates to all small sixes

Daslocum13

New member
Hello! I have an issue I believe I've narrowed down to my distributor. It's a '66 200. The distributor is a Delco-Remy HEI. The car starts great, idles and revs nicely when the car is in park or neutral. It idles fine when in drive, but when I give it some gas it shakes and sputters pretty badly. I swapped in the original distributor with a Pertronix electronic setup and it runs great, even when driving. Put the HEI back in and had the same problem again. The carb is a Daytona CHV Universal carb, but it did the same thing with the 1100. I can't find any vacuum leaks. Vacuum advance holds vacuum. I've replaced the Transmission Vacuum Modulator. Any ideas on what could cause this?
 
There’s not a whole lot to them. I would guess it could be one of 2 things: 1) the pick up may have wires starting to break. It’ll sputter when attempting to advance due to poor signal. 2) module is breaking down due to lack of heat dissipation goop between the module and distributor body. Of course, there’s always the coil. That’s all that’s to them. Easiest to start with is a module, then the coil, then the pickup as the distributor has to be removed to change it. Sorry, I’m not much help.
 
Does this happen when starting a cold engine? Or only when engine is up to full temperature?
If you disconnect the vacuum advance does it still act up?
 
There’s not a whole lot to them. I would guess it could be one of 2 things: 1) the pick up may have wires starting to break. It’ll sputter when attempting to advance due to poor signal. 2) module is breaking down due to lack of heat dissipation goop between the module and distributor body. Of course, there’s always the coil. That’s all that’s to them. Easiest to start with is a module, then the coil, then the pickup as the distributor has to be removed to change it. Sorry, I’m not much help.
I really appreciate your help. I'll go though those pieces and see what I can find. Thanks!
 
Stores such as NAPA can test your module, and use good heat sink compound re-mounting it. Point is, each component can be tested for spec so you're not replacing parts just to try them. Also, the HEI requires direct 12V, bypassing or removing the stock PINK resistor wire in Fords. That resistance can cause mayhem in HEI with the reduced power, so verify yours is getting direct 12V.
 
Excessive timing advance can cause this, but doesn't seem likely since you've been swapping distributors. As was111 recommended, disconnect the vacuum advance and see if it still does it. If it clears up check: timing, wire condition inside the cap, and be sure it's clean in there. The module has to ground to the block. via what it's sitting on. The modules are inexpensive. worth the investment regardless IMO.
 
Google, ohm testing of coil & pickup. When ohm testing pickup wiggle the two wires to the module. If you notice a change then replace the pickup assy.
 
Does this happen when starting a cold engine? Or only when engine is up to full temperature?
If you disconnect the vacuum advance does it still act up?
It happens regardless of engine temp. Disconnecting the vacuum advance doesn't make much of a difference.
 
Are your carburetors equipped with a Spark Control Valve? The 1100 probably is, but I don't know about that Daytona one.
 
It happens regardless of engine temp. Disconnecting the vacuum advance doesn't make much of a difference.
Ok, check timing off the list. Check the wires, and you may want to check the ground: hook alligator clips to the distributor body and engine, good clean contact. Then go get a module. $42 well spent.
 
If it runs good with the old distributor install it and leave it alone. I have a 200 engine to be installed and I plan on running a point distributor. I have installed a ballast resistor on the firewall for it. Why make it complicated.
 
Get one of my DS11's & that will end your problems. Let your wallet be your guide.
 
Sounds like a bad connection internally, when the timing advances, something changes, for the worse
This is what I think it was. I took the tap cover off and found that one of the wires was loose on the inside where the plug snaps in. Once I got that to clip on right, seems to be running fine. Thank you!
 
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