A
Anonymous
Guest
I am extremely excited for these to be released, and the price to be announced. Any chance you are doing some kind of set deal for Heads and Intake? Any recommendations on a cam/carb for mileage (mainly) and performance? 
Aluminum Head Update 3/13/07
- Thread starter AzCoupe
- Start date
frankiesaysrelax
New member
oooh, I'm tingling with anticipation.
I am really looking forward to see what kind of performance, durability, and economy our test pilots achieve.
I am really looking forward to see what kind of performance, durability, and economy our test pilots achieve.
shmoozo
Famous Member
I just thought of a question of truly secondary importance for most of the folks here, but I'm going to ask it anyway. (Please don't be mad.)
Out of curiosity, will the alloy used for the new heads be one that will polish up nice and shiny for the guys who might want to build a blinged out show car?
[There, ya see? I told you it was going to be a question of truly secondary importance. On second thought, make that a question of truly tertiary importance. ]
Out of curiosity, will the alloy used for the new heads be one that will polish up nice and shiny for the guys who might want to build a blinged out show car?
[There, ya see? I told you it was going to be a question of truly secondary importance. On second thought, make that a question of truly tertiary importance.
]
A
Anonymous
Guest
At the risk of forking this discussion, I'm trying to determine a proper order of operations for the modifications I plan to make to my 200/6.
At the moment I have '62 Falcon with a 200 pulled from a '67 Mustang. Modifications include a DUI dizzy, Pacemaker headers and real dual exhaust with Flowmaster 40s, and a $65 dollar Holley/Weber 32/36 (junk) carburetor I bought from the usual source.
The carburetor is the problem. I want to move to a Weber 38/38 because my current 32/36 has an irreparable vacuum leak and I'm convinced that the 32/36 just isn't quite enough carb for my setup.
Deal is, I want to buy one of these new heads along with a somewhat hotter cam about a year from now.
The question is: will the Weber 38/38 be enough carb for my future plans, or should I just wait and buy some sort of 4-barrel carburetor? Basically I need to figure out how to get out of my current problem without needlessly spending $400 on a carb that will only see one year's worth of use. That is, I only want to buy one carburetor in the near future and I'd like it to work for both applications. Maybe I'm just being too cheap.
What are the current test drivers (with 200s) using in their rigs? Fuel injection? Quadrajets? Hmm.
At the moment I have '62 Falcon with a 200 pulled from a '67 Mustang. Modifications include a DUI dizzy, Pacemaker headers and real dual exhaust with Flowmaster 40s, and a $65 dollar Holley/Weber 32/36 (junk) carburetor I bought from the usual source.
The carburetor is the problem. I want to move to a Weber 38/38 because my current 32/36 has an irreparable vacuum leak and I'm convinced that the 32/36 just isn't quite enough carb for my setup.
Deal is, I want to buy one of these new heads along with a somewhat hotter cam about a year from now.
The question is: will the Weber 38/38 be enough carb for my future plans, or should I just wait and buy some sort of 4-barrel carburetor? Basically I need to figure out how to get out of my current problem without needlessly spending $400 on a carb that will only see one year's worth of use. That is, I only want to buy one carburetor in the near future and I'd like it to work for both applications. Maybe I'm just being too cheap.
What are the current test drivers (with 200s) using in their rigs? Fuel injection? Quadrajets? Hmm.
shmoozo
Famous Member
spankmeister7":1qpkd7r5 said:
I don't know if anybody is actually testing the heads in a naturally aspirated carb set up yet, but I'm willing to throw out a guess about what might be a viable direction for you here.
Consider the carbs being discussed in the following thread over in the big six section.
A list of Autolite/Motorcraft 2100/2150 carb flow rates.
At least some of those carbs should be available cheap at your local salvage yard, and my guess would be that some of the MC2100/2150 carb models would work just fine with a 200. Assuming you can get it tuned right one of these should get you through to where you are ready to buy one of the new heads.
I'm going to guess that you might wind up wanting a slightly larger carb with the new head, however, because it seems to me that it will be breathing a whole lot better. You may even want a small 4-barrel like a Holley 390cfm carb with the new head, but I'm not really sure about that.
weber 38/38 is 390 cfm. It is not a 4 bbl, but from understanding it is a very good two bbl carb, pretty good flow rate for a 2 bbl. I have this carb and want to keep it when I purchase a new head., but if you 're planning on buying another carb, you might want to do some research on a 4 bbl. if you are trying to achieve a little of both fuel econ. and power I think the 2 bbl 38/38 weber would be the way to go.
Mike, Will:
I'm in the process of making a 6:1 stainless turbo header. Not wanting to do this twice, could you give me the dimensions of the width, height and radius of the corners of the exhaust ports at the flange? I was thinking about using an inside tube diameter of 1.4" (squared of course at the flange). But I think this may be too small for the aluminum head? Thanks.
I'm in the process of making a 6:1 stainless turbo header. Not wanting to do this twice, could you give me the dimensions of the width, height and radius of the corners of the exhaust ports at the flange? I was thinking about using an inside tube diameter of 1.4" (squared of course at the flange). But I think this may be too small for the aluminum head? Thanks.
Drag-200,
Mike will have to get these for you. The head we have is not exactly the same as the "production" ones.
I had Mike shift the ports a little for better gasket seal. So I think the ports are a little lower but they're a little larger too.
I'm using 1 5/8" diameter tubing for the primaries. It fits a standard Fel-pro exhaust gasket size pretty good. Which is very close to the same size as the new exhuast ports. At least 1,2, & 5,6. 3 & 4 are different in shape.
Will
Mike will have to get these for you. The head we have is not exactly the same as the "production" ones.
I had Mike shift the ports a little for better gasket seal. So I think the ports are a little lower but they're a little larger too.
I'm using 1 5/8" diameter tubing for the primaries. It fits a standard Fel-pro exhaust gasket size pretty good. Which is very close to the same size as the new exhuast ports. At least 1,2, & 5,6. 3 & 4 are different in shape.
Will
And another thing I'd like to report on the aluminum cyl. head.
NOTHING!
By that I mean that we're not having any problems whatsoever with the head. We've had it up to 215* (your's truely forgot to turn on the cooling fan! ) and we've now been 10.95@124 with it.
We have some street miles on it too. Even went to the grocery! The car looks right at home with the back seat full of cereal and veggies!
So I'm tootin' the ClassicInlines horn a bit here! I think that all of Mike's effort and substantial monetary investment will be worth it to his customers.
You won't be dissapointed!
Later,
Will
NOTHING!
By that I mean that we're not having any problems whatsoever with the head. We've had it up to 215* (your's truely forgot to turn on the cooling fan!
) and we've now been 10.95@124 with it. We have some street miles on it too. Even went to the grocery! The car looks right at home with the back seat full of cereal and veggies!
So I'm tootin' the ClassicInlines horn a bit here! I think that all of Mike's effort and substantial monetary investment will be worth it to his customers.
You won't be dissapointed!
Later,
Will
Gene Fiore
Famous Member
Yeah, but they get there real fast!82F100":3vzlhlod said:
Mustang Boy
Well-known member
Gene Fiore":4lk4g9a5 said:Yeah, but they get there real fast!82F100":4lk4g9a5 said:
now thats something to LOL about
shmoozo
Famous Member
wcol":1aqlo70n said:
From the Classic Inlines web site's Small Six Aluminum Head Deposit Information page:
That's plenty of options, and yes, if you read carefully you'll see that they do plan to offer both Holley 2V and Weber 2V downdraft carb adapters for the Holley 4V intake. Actually, you could probably mount just about any commonly available downdraft carb, Throttle Body Injection (TBI) unit, or Propane Mixer to the Holley 4V intake with an appropriate adapter and if one isn't readily available, you could always get one machined from aluminum billet at a local machine shop.
A
Anonymous
Guest
What is the maximum HP N/A you can make with the new 2V , 250hp? . 300HP?, 350HP?
Aussie Gazz":2egkp0kd said:
Yes, all the above if you meet the conditions of the PLAN formula.
Basically, you can
Pressurise the engine (turbo or supercharger),
alter the:- Leverage (by stroking the engine or making the breathing, cam, intake carburation and exhast more efficient, or reducing internal friction),
raise the Area of the piston by boring it out,
or increase the Number of revs per minute.
Mikes Classic Inline head works on both L, by increasing the efficiency of the head. P, A and N need to fiddled with after the head is bolted on, because on its own, the head is restricted hugely by the cam, carburation and exhast system. And once you've spent a few dollars on really good induction, a turbo engine looks a whole bunch more inviting.
Actual horsepower will depend on how wild the cam and carburation and gearing has to be, and the end use, be it street, boat, drag strip or offroad in a Bronco. Generally there is a formula which allows you to turn the peak CFM the head flows on a flowbench, into flywheel hp.
If you run a 2 or 4-bbl carb or CFI injection, the maxiumum power will be heaps less than triple carbs or port EFI. Engine rpms over 6000 rpm are unlikely to be used for street engines, because its impossible to gear them so you can drive them on the street with an auto or manual gear box. So if everything is optimised and with an engine reving to 5000 to 5500 rpm, you'd get 1 hp per cube for a 4-bbl 200 cube engine with ease. So 200 hp for a 200 if its modified with a 264 degree cam, and perhaps 250 hp for a 250 if its modified with a 272 degree cam.
When you add triple carbs or a good EFI system, power goes up about 10% on a 2 or 4-bbl because you can pluse tune the intake fuel delivery. So you'd may get close to 220 hp from a 200 with a 264 degree cam, while 275 hp wouild be easy from 250 cubes still with a fairly mild 272 cam. If you go for wilder camshafts above 280 degrees, you can easily get over 230 from the 200, and about 290 hp in the 250.
That is about the limit for steet use. To get around 300 hp from a 200, and over 350 hp from the 250, you have to get into very smart dyno tuned engines which can rev to about 6500 rpm, and make power at 6000 rpm and be boarderline streetable.
The head is the gatekeeper to performance, the cam the heartbeat, everyting else revolves around these two.