All Small Six 250 head swap or engine swap ?

This relates to all small sixes

districtqc

New member
Hi ! I'm new here , i have a 67 comet voyager (wagon) with the 200 six . I aquired a 77 250 for next to no money.

My question is : should i swap the engine, or only the head ? Either way i would bring the head to a machine shop and have it milled for a 2v carb and general rebuilt.

My goal is to achieve a bit better drivability out of that car , whitout sacrificing too Much on economy , i want to Drive that thing often, nearly daily often.

I already have a Weber 32/36 on a adapter , dui style ignition and headers on the 200.

Thanks !
 
This is what im thinking, but what about fuel economy ? I Heard the 250 is more thirsty, is it true ?

Right now the car is equipped with a 3speed manual , but i also have a 3speed + overdrive laying around that im planning to use.
 
One of the best drivability upgrades is a T5 manual swap, especially because you already have a manual car.

If you change to the 250, you will need a different bell housing for your transmission anyway, it uses a V8 bell. That might save you some coin and heart ache over using the modern driveline's adapter plate. But then you'd be into a new flywheel as well.

I used my 67 3 speed bell with adapter, it wasn't hard, and swapped to a later clutch to match the t5.
 
This is what im thinking, but what about fuel economy ? I Heard the 250 is more thirsty, is it true ?

Right now the car is equipped with a 3speed manual , but i also have a 3speed + overdrive laying around that im planning to use.
A 250 can get very good economy easily in the 20's since you already have a great 3.03 3 speed. That could be used behind the 250 or better still is that 3 speed with Over Drive would boost your economy on longer trips and on the freeway. One of our long time site members "John Ha" got his Mustang with 250 Six and T5 Tuned right and was doing 23+ MPG, a link to those posts is below. Good luck with your Wagon Build. https://fordsix.com/threads/fuel-economy-update.83688/
 
A 250 can get very good economy easily in the 20's since you already have a great 3.03 3 speed. That could be used behind the 250 or better still is that 3 speed with Over Drive would boost your economy on longer trips and on the freeway. One of our long time site members "John Ha" got his Mustang with 250 Six and T5 Tuned right and was doing 23+ MPG, a link to those posts is below. Good luck with your Wagon Build. https://fordsix.com/threads/fuel-economy-update.83688/
Thank you for that link, very interesting stuff !

I guess with the weight of the wagon 23mpg is maybe out of reach. But still nice to hear that 20's are possible.

Do you think the 200 would get better or worse mpg ?

You all seem to favor the 250, but i'm wondering if its worth the trouble ? Swapping the head Will save me from bellhousing, motor mounts and z bar headaches etc etc

i don't mind pulling that 200 and figure out how to put the 250 in, but i dont want to be disappointed after all that work, if that Makes sense !
 
Hi ! I'm new here , i have a 67 comet voyager (wagon) with the 200 six . I aquired a 77 250 for next to no money.

My question is : should i swap the engine, or only the head ? Either way i would bring the head to a machine shop and have it milled for a 2v carb and general rebuilt.

My goal is to achieve a bit better drivability out of that car , whitout sacrificing too Much on economy , i want to Drive that thing often, nearly daily often.

I already have a Weber 32/36 on a adapter , dui style ignition and headers on the 200.

Thanks !
I don't have experience with the Weber but I don't think that the Weber carb will give you the fuel economy that the stock single-barrel carb does.

Just for information, my car is a convertible with a 3:1 rear axle ratio. It's the heaviest of the 3 Mustang models (actual measured weight long ago was about 3200 lbs with fuel). That's not too far away from what your wagon weighs. It's also a brick as far as aerodynamics go, again similar to what you have.

IMO, If you put the 250 in, start out with the single-barrel carb. The bone stock 250 has quite a bit of low-end torque - it feels close to that of a stock 289 V8 (my 250 is stock, except for the DuraSpark II ignition system).

My swap wasn't hard, but I started with a car that previously had a V8 and a T5 with a cable clutch in it. Yours will be a little more difficult because of the clutch linkage and bell housing. If you have long-tube headers, they won't work on the 250 without modifications to clear the starter and you'll need to figure out the engine mounts and change the bellhousing stuff. The rest is pretty simple.

I used a Ford Motorsports M6375D302B flywheel and the Valeo King Cobra clutch that I was using with the V8.

I don't know what kind of driving you're doing or what your differential ratio is, but if you're doing mostly in-town stuff and it's the stock 2.xx ratio, maybe changing the differential ratio to something in the low 3's will help with fuel economy, performance and driving satisfaction. You can do that for less money and less pain than doing the engine swap. And if your driving is mostly in-town, you'll probably see an increase in fuel economy too, assuming good economy-oriented driving habits.

Also, my opinion about the T5 - I wouldn't have swapped from the toploader that came with the car if I had it to do over again. I just don't use the overdrive that much.

Hopefully, the information/opinions we all provided are useful to you. But in the end, it's your car, your decision.
 
Last edited:
I don't have experience with the Weber but I don't think that the Weber carb will give you the fuel economy that the stock single-barrel carb does.

Just for information, my car is a convertible with a 3:1 rear axle ratio. It's the heaviest of the 3 Mustang models (actual measured weight long ago was about 3200 lbs with fuel). That's not too far away from what your wagon weighs. It's also a brick as far as aerodynamics go, again similar to what you have.

IMO, If you put the 250 in, start out with the single-barrel carb. The bone stock 250 has quite a bit of low-end torque - it feels close to that of a stock 289 V8 (my 250 is stock, except for the DuraSpark II ignition system).

My swap wasn't hard, but I started with a car that previously had a V8 and a T5 with a cable clutch in it. Yours will be a little more difficult because of the clutch linkage and bell housing. If you have long-tube headers, they won't work on the 250 without modifications to clear the starter and you'll need to figure out the engine mounts and change the bellhousing stuff. The rest is pretty simple.

I used a Ford Motorsports M6375D302B flywheel and the Valeo King Cobra clutch that I was using with the V8.

I don't know what kind of driving you're doing or what your differential ratio is, but if you're doing mostly in-town stuff and it's the stock 2.xx ratio, maybe changing the differential ratio to something in the low 3's will help with fuel economy, performance and driving satisfaction. You can do that for less money and less pain than doing the engine swap. And if your driving is mostly in-town, you'll probably see an increase in fuel economy too, assuming good economy-oriented driving habits.

Also, my opinion about the T5 - I wouldn't have swapped from the toploader that came with the car if I had it to do over again. I just don't use the overdrive that much.

Hopefully, the information/opinions we all provided are useful to you. But in the end, it's your car, your decision.
Thank you for your insight !

I installed the Weber because the 1100 was leaking very badly and didn't really wanted to rebuilt it. Since then the engine runs a lot better.

I need to confirm , but i think i have 3.25 gears already. I Will Drive mostly in Town, but on sundays i hit the highway to go mountain biking, and i'm planning a few Little road Trips. I have a toploader with OD laying around , i might end up using that transmission.

The information and opinions you all gave me is Indeed very useful !
 
w/a lill more on driving conditions a zero in on ur needs will B more accurate.

For me? the 200 is a lill 'revier' more racy and speed equip is more available. the 250 is just stroked - so for tq.
A head change is almost a non issue as they're pretty much the same.
Try the Handbook for more complete info:
 
Just something to consider and it depends on your definition of your goal of a bit better drivability but if your 200 is sound, changing to a bigger cam with the torque/rv grind and port/polish your 250 head may increase torque enough for a bit better drivability. Make sure the compression ends up around 9:1. And check the casting date on your 250 head I can't recall from memory just now but over the years there was different valve sizes used. That way you are using what is in place already, 200/3 speed.
With the supposed 3.25 ratio does your wagon cruise comfortably at 65-70, not revving high? If so an od gear may not be needed or compatible with the 3.25 ratio.
Disclaimer: My mechanical skills are basic and I have never attempted these modifications.
 
Do you think the 200 would get better or worse mpg ?

You all seem to favor the 250, but i'm wondering if its worth the trouble
i dont want to be disappointed after all that work,
Whether a larger displacement engine gets better or worse mileage is not cut-n-dried. Frequently the larger engine will get the same or better economy- IF the gearing is right for the load. The larger engine is working less. A small engine laboring hard uses more fuel than a large engine that is not.
Personally, I don't think the swap is worth the trouble- transmission/clutch linkage, exhaust routing- these mods are a royal pain. And can ruin the originality of the vehicle. I need more gears in a 3-on-the-tree truck, but I'm not cutting a hole in the middle of the rust-free original floor to get them. Unless the 200 is worn out and needs to come out, do the head /carb mods to pep it up and keep it in service.
 
Just something to consider and it depends on your definition of your goal of a bit better drivability but if your 200 is sound, changing to a bigger cam with the torque/rv grind and port/polish your 250 head may increase torque enough for a bit better drivability. Make sure the compression ends up around 9:1. And check the casting date on your 250 head I can't recall from memory just now but over the years there was different valve sizes used. That way you are using what is in place already, 200/3 speed.
With the supposed 3.25 ratio does your wagon cruise comfortably at 65-70, not revving high? If so an od gear may not be needed or compatible with the 3.25 ratio.
Disclaimer: My mechanical skills are basic and I have never attempted these modifications.
I dont have a tach in the car , but to my ears the car sounds happier between 50-55 mph . Thats why i'm thinking of putting that od trans in it
 
That would be an excellent plan! Especially if you will be spending a good amount of time driving at those higher speeds, then it will be easier on the engine (so it lasts longer) and also deliver better economy at those higher speeds a Win Win.
 
I dont have a tach in the car , but to my ears the car sounds happier between 50-55 mph . Thats why i'm thinking of putting that od trans in it
I can identify with that and is why I went nv3550 with od 5th in my Bronco. Way more pleasant comfortably cruising on the freeway at 65 without all the racket from the high rpms.
 
tire sz, rear gear are other ways...
I'd take the incremental approach. FIRST would B the ignition. If motor is '65+ the DuraSpark II system is a nice up-grade (2 or 5 yrs) as it's hotter & no points. Some here recommend against the DUI. U could use the gm 4 pin in place of the ford's 'brain' (gofast4less)

C how U like them apples. No? Need more? go on! May B a carb swap? (If '68 on motor the carb/dizzy feedback system can more easily B eliminated & discard the 1100 or whatever the OP left on there. The headers U have are justa + 5% on power increase. Speaking of which U did not say if this is a 'new 2 U' vehicle. One must ID all components (that matter) B4 any helpful mods are done (again the Handbook is helpful). For the 36/36 I'd suggest a modern cam change & new valves/rockers. May B the experts here can figure the current math for it as some DO run them. It is certainly not a gas miser like the 1100, 32/36 progressive (5200), pretty 1904 w/the glass bowl or others. In that daily drivin I'd still like to know the detail. R U a stoplight to stoplight kinda guy? Lots of hills. All expressway, canyon carving, 2 lane blk top, 80% of the RPMs, which octane gas U seek, etc.

Pick up 'the Handbook' (C post 12 above), read the above Tech Archive & (if like me) you will know the right questions to ask~
 
I just found this very informative site and it mentions an axle ratio of 3.25 with an optional ratio of 3.50 for the Comet wagon. Your wagon could have the 3.50 since it has the 200 so as Chad mentioned axle ratio changes can cut down on high revs on the freeway. May work out for you if you don't go over a lot of high altitude mountain passes and before you committed to this route you can find online calculators to determine what the decrease in rpms would be with different axle ratios. The difference between 3.25 and 3.50 may not be much of a difference and of course this would depend on the ratios available for your axle. Back in the 60s wagons weren't just for the mom to get groceries but were often packed with kids and luggage to use for cross-country vacation adventures so with the smallest motor available it may have had the lower rear axle ratio.

 
Back
Top