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Starting my build very soon

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62Ranchero200
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Starting my build very soon

Post #1 by 62Ranchero200 » Sun Aug 25, 2013 7:44 am

Greetings Ford Six Fans:

FINALLY ... should be receiving my 250 short block from the machine shop very soon, perhaps even this coming Saturday.

The short block includes 300 rods, custom forged pistons (zero deck height, ~9.6:1 static CR), ARP main studs, ARP rod bolts, statically and dynamically balanced rotating assembly, early timing chain, and a Clay Smith 274/274/108H cam. To complement this will be a CI aluminum head with 1.6 adjustable rockers, CI intake and headers, Holley "500 CFM" 2 bbl carb, and DUI. Drivetrain will be 2500-3000 stall TCI "Breakaway" torque converter, C-4, light duty six cylinder rear end with 3.50 gears.

I just received the last of the major parts that I will need to assemble the engine:

https://imageshack.com/i/ngl4gzj

https://imageshack.com/i/jnwbdqj

https://imageshack.com/i/mqxnhpj

Will post photos of the build as it progresses.

Bob the Builder
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #2 by Boedy1 » Mon Aug 26, 2013 8:55 am

Can't wait to see how this goes! I got a '65 Ranchero that I just got my 250 for, not gonna do as much as you are, but looking forward to hearing how yours performs.

Boedy

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Picked up the 250 short block yesterday

Post #3 by 62Ranchero200 » Sun Oct 20, 2013 2:46 pm

After a three week delay due to breaking my back ( ! ), I finally picked up the 250 short block from the machine shop yesterday. Machinist was kind enough to paint the block while it was clean and hot - said the paint would adhere better that way.

Front view:

[IMG=http://imageshack.com/a/img826/1390/wbpl.jpg][/IMG]Uploaded with ImageShack.com

Notice how there is approximate zero deck height with the custom RaceTek (formerly JE) pistons and 300 rods. The block was bored .020 over and decked .030.

[IMG=http://imageshack.com/a/img600/4200/ygn1.jpg][/IMG]Uploaded with ImageShack.com

Low angle view shows just how close to zero the deck height is.

[IMG=http://imageshack.com/a/img7/12/vjqp.jpg][/IMG]Uploaded with ImageShack.com

Mains view shows ARP main studs and rod big-end pads where material was removed to balance rotating assembly.

Bob the Builder
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #4 by Gene Fiore » Sun Oct 20, 2013 4:16 pm

Sounds like a great build and combination! Should make good power...just wondering how the 108 centerline will idle. Please let us know. Also you may already know from other posts on this forum, but you will probably have a clearance issue when installing the oil pump because you have main studs. One of the studs will interfere with the pump housing. I solved this my grinding the needed clearance on the oil pump.
1971 Maverick, 250I6, crank knife-edged, Clay Smith 278 solid cam, .040 over 255 V8 pistons, 10.5 to 1, Custom 500 Holley 2V on Classic Inlines Aluminum cylinder head, 1.6 rockers, Hooker header, DUI dizzy, C-4 w/2800 stall, 8" 3.55 det locker

Best ET 1/4 mile: 14.92 at 89.61 mph on 1/12/2013

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #5 by 62Ranchero200 » Mon Oct 21, 2013 7:09 am

Gene Fiore wrote:Sounds like a great build and combination! Should make good power...just wondering how the 108 centerline will idle. Please let us know. Also you may already know from other posts on this forum, but you will probably have a clearance issue when installing the oil pump because you have main studs. One of the studs will interfere with the pump housing. I solved this my grinding the needed clearance on the oil pump.


Maybe I take the CI camshaft footnotes too literally, but the notes for this cam described "lopey idle" (as opposed to rough idle, which is worse, right?) and "good vacuum". So I'm hopeful about the cam. The converter will help a lot with the idle, right?

Thank you for the reminder about the oil pump clearance issue.

Bob
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #6 by Gene Fiore » Mon Oct 21, 2013 10:09 am

62Ranchero200 wrote:
Gene Fiore wrote:Sounds like a great build and combination! Should make good power...just wondering how the 108 centerline will idle. Please let us know. Also you may already know from other posts on this forum, but you will probably have a clearance issue when installing the oil pump because you have main studs. One of the studs will interfere with the pump housing. I solved this my grinding the needed clearance on the oil pump.


Maybe I take the CI camshaft footnotes too literally, but the notes for this cam described "lopey idle" (as opposed to rough idle, which is worse, right?) and "good vacuum". So I'm hopeful about the cam. The converter will help a lot with the idle, right?

Thank you for the reminder about the oil pump clearance issue.

Bob

Yes and yes! I've wondered since I built mine if the 108 would have been a better choice so anxious to hear how your build turns out. Keep us informed! :thumbup:
1971 Maverick, 250I6, crank knife-edged, Clay Smith 278 solid cam, .040 over 255 V8 pistons, 10.5 to 1, Custom 500 Holley 2V on Classic Inlines Aluminum cylinder head, 1.6 rockers, Hooker header, DUI dizzy, C-4 w/2800 stall, 8" 3.55 det locker

Best ET 1/4 mile: 14.92 at 89.61 mph on 1/12/2013

My Classic Inlines Photo Page

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #7 by 62Ranchero200 » Sun Nov 03, 2013 2:01 pm

So far, have installed the new oil pump, timing cover, and new harmonic balancer. The oil pump itself fit without any clearance grinding, but the main studs make it impossible to start one of the oil pump pickup bolts with the oil pump body installed, so I had to install the oil pump pickup to the oil pump first. Since the oil pump drive shaft would fall out anyway while rotating the engine block (upside-down to rightside-up) as I work on it, I left the shaft out for now. Hope that it isn't too difficult to install it with long-nose needle-nose pliers.

Painting many parts now, i.e. oil pan, water pump, etc. Going with studs for the oil pan to better locate the gasket and for better sealing.

Plan to drop the short block in and make sure it mates up with the bellhousing and motor mounts, then assemble the top end in-chassis (easier with the lighter weight aluminum head, three piece headers and mini-starter).

Thanks
Bob
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #8 by bubba22349 » Sun Nov 03, 2013 8:48 pm

There should be a sure clip on the oil pump drive shaft (distribitor end) to hold it in place. though the drive will work without it sometimes when you pull the distributor out the shaft will come out too and then drop down beside the oil pump. :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #9 by 62Ranchero200 » Mon Nov 04, 2013 8:58 am

@Bubba,

I didn't see any sure clip when I took the factory original 250 apart about a year ago. Can you send me a photo of one? Do you know where I can get one?

Thanks
Bob
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #10 by bubba22349 » Mon Nov 04, 2013 10:09 am

62 Ranchero sometimes people will take them off and toss them, and if they are not set with enough clearance they will also wear and then break. I have also seen the shaft installed upside down on a couple engines during tear down. They are like an internal lock washer or sometimes called an anti shake washer with little barb'es in the hole to grab on the shaft, they will slide on easy in one direct only. You install drive shaft in oil pump then bolt it down first check and set the retainer washer height so that its just below the blocks distribor hole (bottom side) about 1/16 to 1/8 inch. These are used on many Ford engines of all sizes below is picture of a V8 shaft the clips are the same. I learned the importance of that clip and having an oil pressure gauge or low pressure light that is working the hard way, about 1966 lost an engine in a 27 T bucket build. Good luck :nod:

http://macsautoparts.com/images/400/C1A ... A_pJPG.JPG
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #11 by 62Ranchero200 » Tue Nov 05, 2013 9:13 am

@Bubba,

I looked at the oil pump drive shaft from the 250 and it seems identical on both ends. The only difference I can see is that on one end the wear pattern (shiny metal) is about 1/2" long, while on the other end the wear pattern is about 3/4" long. Does it matter which way I install the drive shaft (which end is up)? If so, how do I tell which end should be up?

Thanks
Bob
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #12 by bubba22349 » Tue Nov 05, 2013 10:19 am

Some shafts have a more pointed tip to help the distributor go in, if they are both the same then the one with the 3/4 wear mark was the one that went into the distributor.
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #13 by CNC-Dude » Tue Nov 05, 2013 1:38 pm

If you do decide to install that clip onto your pump drive shaft, many people install it to where it is on the bottom side of the support boss inside the engine, that way if you ever remove the distributor it doesn't pull the shaft out of the pump with the distributor. Its a real pain to reinstall the distributor and the shaft at the same time and have it engage into the pump.
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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #14 by 62Ranchero200 » Thu Nov 07, 2013 9:10 am

CNC-Dude wrote:If you do decide to install that clip onto your pump drive shaft, many people install it to where it is on the bottom side of the support boss inside the engine, that way if you ever remove the distributor it doesn't pull the shaft out of the pump with the distributor. Its a real pain to reinstall the distributor and the shaft at the same time and have it engage into the pump.


@CNC-Dude,

I've read many times that it is recommended to pull the distributor and spin the oil pump drive shaft with a drill, to test the oil pump and to prime the oiling system before starting the engine for the first time.

This must change the alignment between the oil pump drive shaft and the distributor. Is it a problem to re-align the oil pump drive shaft and distributor when re-installing the distributor?

If you're going to spin the oil pump drive shaft with a drill, then there's no reason to worry about the alignment up to that point, right?

Thanks
Bob
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #15 by CNC-Dude » Thu Nov 07, 2013 12:37 pm

Its a lot trickier to reinstall the drive rod from the topside through the distributor hole since it is basically a deep recessed pocket and produces more difficulty to insert the rod into the oil pump. Especially with the distributor boss being at an angle. It can just introduce an unexpected challenge if your not prepared for it.
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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #16 by powerband » Thu Nov 07, 2013 4:04 pm

On topic:

If the diz/oil pump drive should happen to fall into the crankcase :? , removing the fuel pump will usually let you simply retrieve with a magnet stick :roll: ... .

have fun
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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #17 by CNC-Dude » Thu Nov 07, 2013 7:08 pm

That clip being on the drive shaft on the underside of the boss can also prevent that scenario as well.
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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #18 by drag-200stang » Thu Nov 07, 2013 9:42 pm

You guys are thinking of Ford V8's. On the small six. A clip like you guys are describing won't work. Everything is enclosed. Some drive shafts are cut for a clip that just applies pressure to the inside of the distributor or the oil pump to hold it in place. Personally, I like the drive shaft to hold in the distributor and not the oil pump because for what I'm doing, I like to check the wear on the drive shaft. As far as installing or taking the drive shaft out of the oil pump, I use a thin vinyl tubing that fits the shaft snug and push a rod inside it to release it once I have it in the oil pump. Definately be careful not the loose the drive shaft.
Last edited by drag-200stang on Sat Nov 09, 2013 8:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #19 by CNC-Dude » Thu Nov 07, 2013 10:11 pm

The distributor gears sit on top of the block boss on V8's also, and have a tendency to adhere to the inside of the gear when you remove them from the engine. Its just an annoyance if you aren't expecting it to come out if you remove the distributor for any reason. And for someone that has never done it before, it just adds extra challenges to an otherwise simple appearing task.
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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #20 by drag-200stang » Thu Nov 07, 2013 11:33 pm

Ok but there is no under side of the boss.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

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Re: Starting my build very soon - shims for rocker assembly

Post #21 by 62Ranchero200 » Sun Nov 10, 2013 5:15 pm

Greetings Ford Six Fans,

My block was decked .030 to achieve near zero deck height (my head has not been milled). I understand that, to achieve correct valvetrain geometry, I need to place shims under the rocker assembly pedestals. Are ordinary thin washers used for this, or are there specially made shims?

Thanks
Bob
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #22 by drag-200stang » Sun Nov 10, 2013 9:38 pm

Forget anything you heard about shimming the pedestels. Its something Ak Miller started a long tme ago in a hot rod article. They didn't have time to get the right push rods so they made due by shimming the rocker shaft. Anything you do to raise and lower the rocker shaft will change the as designed rocker to valve geometry. If you know for a fact its off for the cam you have, in other words extreme lift then maybe shortening the pedestel would help to restore the rocker to valve alignment. But for what you have, I don't think it would be an issue. What you want to make sure is, that the push rod shaft is the correct length so that your rocker arm adjuster is in a good position to adjust your hydraulic lifter preload correctly. Extreme milling of the block or head only requires the right length push rod for the correct adjustment. Make sure your push rods are sized correctly and don't bind throughout travel (cup and ball). I hope this helps and doesn't complicate things.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

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Re: Starting my build very soon - 300 rod issue

Post #23 by 62Ranchero200 » Wed Nov 13, 2013 1:04 pm

Greetings Ford Six Fans,

I must retract my statement that the 300 rods do not cause any clearance issues. Once the oil pump is installed, one of the rod's balance pad on the outside of the big end hits one of the oil pump pickup bolts. I'll have to put an extra washer on the oil pump pickup bolt.

[IMG=http://imageshack.com/a/img812/3341/6ba4.jpg][/IMG]Uploaded with ImageShack.com

Thanks
Bob the Builder
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build - anti-seize on all bolt threading to

Post #24 by 62Ranchero200 » Wed Nov 13, 2013 1:07 pm

Greetings Ford Six Fans,

Is it true that all steel bolts threading into aluminum (for example, rocker pedestal bolts threading into the aluminum head - intake manifold bolts - header bolts - thermostat bolts - valve cover bolts) require anti-seize?

Thanks
Bob the Builder
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #25 by CNC-Dude » Wed Nov 13, 2013 1:32 pm

Yes, but only if you want to remove them later! :P
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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #26 by 62Ranchero200 » Sun Nov 17, 2013 8:05 pm

Greetings Ford Six Fans,

Have assembled the timing cover and harmonic balancer to the block, and as soon as I get a few more oil pan studs, will be installing the pan to the block. However, can't drop the short block into the chassis yet because the trans seems to be stuck in park. I did disconnect the shifter cable previously to install new carpet, but I did not remove the shifter linkage lever on the transmission, and I have verified that the shifter linkage lever is moving when I move the gear shift. The only other thing I have done is use some slightly longer bolts for the bellhousing; and four of those thread into the transmission. It may not be anything I have done, the transmission may have just picked this moment to break.

[IMG=http://imageshack.com/a/img600/7214/dnkx.jpg][/IMG]Uploaded with ImageShack.com

Thanks
Bob
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #27 by 62Ranchero200 » Thu Nov 21, 2013 10:02 am

I pulled the trans out of the Ranchero earlier this week, then pulled the front pump off. The front pump / bellhousing bolts thread into a thickened extension of the case, and there are no rotating parts in their path. So, I don't think overly long bolts could have been the issue with the trans stuck in park (maybe this isn't an accurate description) or not rotating.

I could see the shift linkage inside the case and it appeared to be moving as it should. Will have to let a transmission shop (Circle D in Houston) figure it out. At least the trans will be freshly rebuilt when I fire up the new 250.

While I'm waiting for that, will continue to assemble the short block as much as possible.

Thanks
Bob
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #28 by 62Ranchero200 » Tue Dec 03, 2013 1:11 pm

It turns out that the trans needed to be rebuilt anyway - worn clutches and bands.

On a case-fill C-4, the bolts that hold the transmission pump in are also the bolts that hold the bellhousing to the transmission. Turns out that the "stuck in park issue" was because when I installed the bellhousing, it fit onto the transmission pump so tightly that in the process of installing it, the pump broke loose from the transmission, the position became out of synch, and some teeth were broken off of the drum. The extra expense because of my mistake (a new drum) is about $90.

Thanks
Bob
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #29 by xctasy » Tue Dec 03, 2013 5:01 pm

Good work, that's why the C4 is sch a great little slushbox.

Same thing with the C3 automatic and FMX, and also Australian six cylinder C7 (1967 six to 1971), C9 (1969 to 1981) versions of the pan fill C4 that you have. They used an Australian bellhousing with a US import trans, but they were finish assembled as one unit. The bellhousing is a source of tension and preload if its replaced after the transmission being used in service.

Great thing is the C4 parts are the cheapest in the business, and a lot less exy than a new C3 or A4LD/5R55 front pump which needs to be changed anytime the bellhousing is changed.

Hope things progress well, and that yor able to enjoy yourself!
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FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
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Long block is in the chasis, mated to trans!

Post #30 by 62Ranchero200 » Mon Dec 30, 2013 2:18 pm

Greetings Ford Six Fans,

Background: this is a 250 from a '74 Maverick going into a '62 Ranchero. The Ranchero already had a case-fill C-4, which I retained, but with a new TCI bellhousing and 2,500 - 3,000 RPM-rated "Breakaway" torque converter, sized for the 157-tooth flexplate.

Between work, chiropractor visits (for my broken back), and holiday events, it's been a struggle to get Ranchero work done, but I finally reached this milestone.

Got the oil pan on (using studs), then the ARP head studs, head gasket and head. Dropped the long block into the chassis without headers, exhaust manifold, distributor, etc:

[IMG=http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/c/20/slzp.jpg][/IMG]

[IMG=http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/c/43/jfk8.jpg][/IMG]

[IMG=http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/c/577/6k6y.jpg][/IMG]

Lessons I learned: The torque converter pushes "in" (towards the trans) quite a bit more than is obvious - you have to rotate it and push several times. Also, the flexplate-to-crankshaft bolts are not in a symmetrical pattern; later I learned they are asymmetrical because the crank and flexplate are dynamically balanced to each other and must be reassembled in the same relative position.

The engine sits a bit more forward, and much lower than I expected: I had to remove the anti-sway bar because it interfered with the front sump oil pan. As a reminder, the radiator had already been moved as far forward as possible (by cutting the core support), and the steering centerlink flipped over to the bottom of the idler arm and pitman arm. I also relieved the firewall a bit for access to the center bellhousing bolts, but it turns out that was unnecessary.

I don't see any way that either stock Ranchero or Maverick motor mounts will work for this installation, trying to find a welder to help me make custom motor mounts. In the images below, on the driver's side I left the motor mount subframe on so that you can see how the subframe now falls between the motor mount boss bolt holes; and on the passenger side I took the motor mount subframe off so that you can see the relationship between the bottom of the shock tower (where the motor mount subframe attaches) and the motor mount boss on the block:

[IMG=http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/c/401/l1gx.jpg][/IMG]

[IMG=http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/c/833/8m5r.jpg][/IMG]

Thanks
Bob the Builder
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #31 by bubba22349 » Mon Dec 30, 2013 3:14 pm

You did a Great job on the engine detailing :thumbup: :hmmm: How much room do you have between the head and the firewall with the engine sitting as it is? It looks like the engine might be able to slide back some if your going to make the custom mounts, benefits would be better weight distribution and handling. Good luck you are making lots of progress considering your health condition it's no fun when you have back trouble :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #32 by 62Ranchero200 » Mon Dec 30, 2013 4:10 pm

bubba22349 wrote:You did a Great job on the engine detailing :thumbup: :hmmm: How much room do you have between the head and the firewall with the engine sitting as it is? It looks like the engine might be able to slide back some if your going to make the custom mounts. :nod:


@Bubba22349,

I have a considerable amount of room (maybe as much as four inches) between the head and the firewall, but I probably have half an inch or less that I can move the engine back without having to relocate the transmission mount. The transmission mount studs on the bottom of the transmission will hit the back of the slots in the crossmember at that point (I already elongated the slots as much as I could without weakening the crossmember). The frame rails are already like Swiss cheese with holes from previous trans crossmembers (who knows how many engine/trans swaps were done to this car before I got it; at least one), so really don't want to weaken them further by drilling more holes. I don't weld so having someone make a new crossmember for me would be expensive, especially if I had to have the car towed to them.

The previous engine (a 200) sat farther back (maybe 2" from firewall), but used the smaller six cylinder bellhousing. The 250 is using the larger SBF bellhousing, which protrudes a bit (1-2") farther into the engine compartment. The distance from the bellhousing mounting flange on the block, to the back of the head may also be a bit more on the 250.

Thanks
Bob
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #33 by xctasy » Tue Dec 31, 2013 4:39 am

:boom: :fume: :smash: :shockin: :deadhorse: :banana: :wrench: :USA: :stick: Relax. :bang:


There is a reason why the Schedahl brothers say never say never with empty box Ford production engineering. The new wine in old wineskins really confuses anyone who has been around any US, Canadian, British or Aussie Ford.

I'm pretty sure the SBF six bolt bellhousing with 157 flexplate came into being in the 1965 model year in 240 Ford I6's... one year before the five bolt 1963 to 1965 221/250/289 became the 1966 Windsor 6 bolt. The C4 then came in truck 164 and sedan 157 versions. The FMX 164 teeth bellhousing pattern then got duplicated in F100 trucks, with some Windsor 351's getting a 164 teeth C4 bell. The C5 bellhousing was based on this truck bellhousing, even the 200's got a 164 teeth deep bellhousing similar to the F100/F150 C4 transmissions. Some cars got shallow 157 teeth flexplate C4's which the 136 teeth 200's shared. Fact is, you can find many types of bell housing for case fills, a bewildering range. That's the way the McNamara era production engineering ran, total interchangabilty with the bare minimum of changes to make anything fit. It was an empty box, proprietry, sleeping dog method of cost reduction, and it worked so good, it saved Fords bacon. So Ford would do engine electric, head, block and bellhousing changes with seemingly no rime or reason, then suddenly a Ford engine would end up with another engines cylinder head, transmission or some kind of half breed block which was all 'politely speaking, effed up. Examples were

1. K code 289 and Q code 302 Windsor Tunnel Ports engine blocks with Cleveland 4V 351 heads with 1972-1983 302C closed chambers, = Boss 302
2. All gray low mount 1981 to 1983 200/3.3's getting a Truck 164 bellhousing depth for C4's and C5's, but the blue engines having shallow depth 136 or 138 teeth C3 or C4 bellhousings
3. 1965 240's getting six bolt blocks one year before the Windsor 260 and 289's did.
4. A neutral balance V8 160 Teeth Five bolt flexplates ending up on Aussie low, medium and tall deck 170/188/200/221/250 engines
5. A German 138 teeth 2.6/2.8/2.9/4.0 Cologne V6 flexplates with French built ending up on a large percentage blue 200 high mount 1978 to 1983 engines
6. The Cleveland/Windsor 351 firing order being included in bank fire CFI and smaller 255/302 engines form 1981 onwards so a 351 W cam could be used
7. Totally Scrapping the virile 351C/351 M and 400 Ford canted valve 335 series truck and sedan engines and heads in progressive rooll out from 1974 to 1983, with production tolling to Australia for factory made 1985 SVO cylinder blocks and closed chamber 302 57 cc heads, but then using the valve gear, firing order, bellhousing design and then fortifying the roller cam 302W and 351W engines with 4-BBL 4180 Holleys or CFI or port bank fire or sequential EFI, and then making them factory 302 Boss or 351 Boss beaters with mass produced Windsor components.
8. Cutting up the 250 six to make a 2.3/2.5 High Swirl Combustion headed I4 with a Mazda/Vulcan bellhousing, flywheel and flexplate, yet calling it 200 based when the camshaft spacing was 250, the deck height Aussie 250 on the 2.5, the crank strokes unlike anything else, and the carb and CFI injection standard wide stud , large carb hole log head. Yet the timing chain, serpentine drive and EECIV systems were sate of the art and light years ahead.
9. Keeping 6volt instrument electrics and protocols totally alive from 1932 to about 1984, with practically all the gauges and sensors IVR (Instrument Voltage Regulated), yet mixing the most advanced cutting edge EFI and electronic display and control systems (it eclipsed NASA with ex NASA rocket scientists adding anti lock units, flow meters, electronic speedo pickups, voice syth, vac fluro and mpg meter and ALDL protocols), yet absolutely penny and dime pinching everywhere else to use ancient parts from Noahs Ark. As such, the 1930 to 1984 Ford electrical and later electronic systems are a HAMB'ers delight, and allow us to run a 1960's small six on EDIS, CFI, EFI, Duraspark, TFI or put any gearbox and transmission combo we like behind any size engine.
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XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #34 by 62Ranchero200 » Sun Jan 05, 2014 5:58 pm

Greetings Ford Six Fans,

Turns out that there was about 3" between the firewall and the head, and I was able to push the engine back about 1/4". I can't move it any farther back without relocating the transmission crossmember, which I don't want to do.

Picked up some 1/4" mild steel at Sears Hardware; used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut it and drilled out holes for the bolts using the new drill press (partially paid for by a Lowe's gift certificate I won in a raffle at work). With the help of a friend who can weld, made the motor mounts:

[IMG=http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/826/5r1g.jpg][/IMG]

[IMG=http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/21/5cmc.jpg][/IMG]

They'll undoubtedly look more finished when they're cleaned up and painted flat black. They're solid - I realize they'll transmit a lot of vibration to the frame, and I may attempt to make some insulated ones later.

Thanks
Bob the Builder
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Motor mounts, fuel pump and starter are in

Post #35 by 62Ranchero200 » Sun Jan 19, 2014 8:03 pm

Greetings Ford Six Fans,

The homemade motor mounts cleaned up nicely:

https://imageshack.com/i/nawgu6j

They fit well enough to bolt them into the shock towers and onto the motor mount bosses, and the engine is now self-supporting:

https://imageshack.com/i/5bz2pyj

https://imageshack.com/i/1qj0exj

I'm certain the motor mounts could have been made better and with more precision, but this was my first time making motor mounts. Note the notch on the driver's side motor mount to accomodate the fuel pump and one of its bolts. There's also a cutout on that same one, at the bottom outside (by the shock tower) to accommodate the lower control arm.

The PowerMaster 9103 min-starter is now bolted up, and I have to make up a solenoid to starter cable before I can test it:

https://imageshack.com/i/15b69wj

The starter's soleniod falls in the 4-5 o'clock position, and comes within maybe 1/16" of the steering centerlink.

Thanks
Bob the Builder
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #36 by bubba22349 » Sun Jan 19, 2014 8:44 pm

:beer: looks like everything going to fit real nice, I like that starter too! :thumbup:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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CI headers and intake manifold in place

Post #37 by 62Ranchero200 » Sun Feb 02, 2014 6:27 pm

Installed the CI stainless steel headers - didn't realize how great they would look! It's a real shame that they will be mostly covered by the intake manifold. The header installation was mostly uneventful, although I couldn't find the stainless steel bolts that came with the headers, so I had to pick up some from my local Sears Hardware.

https://imageshack.com/i/f2f03cj

The intake manifold was a bit more work - first I had to make gaskets. Used the manifold itself as a template to cut out a sheet of gasket material, then used a hole punch to punch out the bolt holes and an exacto knife to cut out the holes for the ports. Ended up using the studs on the top of the intake manifold flange, and some 1 1/4" bolts on the bottom of the intake manifold flange.

https://imageshack.com/i/10hsdkj

Working on fabbing and hooking up the fuel lines (3/8" coated steel from the gas tank to the engine compartment, 5/16" coated steel within the engine compartment, fuel injection grade rubber hose for small transition lengths only).

Pushrods and Holley "500 CFM" carburetor arrived over the weekend.

Thanks
Bob the Builder
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #38 by Econoline » Sun Feb 02, 2014 10:41 pm

That motor looks amazing :)
It ain't gonna fix itself

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #39 by Gene Fiore » Mon Feb 03, 2014 2:21 pm

Purdy!
1971 Maverick, 250I6, crank knife-edged, Clay Smith 278 solid cam, .040 over 255 V8 pistons, 10.5 to 1, Custom 500 Holley 2V on Classic Inlines Aluminum cylinder head, 1.6 rockers, Hooker header, DUI dizzy, C-4 w/2800 stall, 8" 3.55 det locker

Best ET 1/4 mile: 14.92 at 89.61 mph on 1/12/2013

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #40 by bubba22349 » Mon Feb 03, 2014 2:46 pm

:beer: it's a beaut! :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Recent progress: Holley 2300, flex fan

Post #41 by 62Ranchero200 » Fri Feb 21, 2014 1:25 pm

Have accomplished quite a bit since the last update, and have the parts in hand to accomplish quite a bit more.

Since the last update:

The battery, which hasn't been in a running car in about 18 months but has been on a battery charger, has finally died.

Mounted the Holley 2300, "500 CFM" carb - throttle lever hits the intake manifold unless I use a phenolic resin spacer to raise the carb, which I did. The carb spacer meant I needed longer carb bolts/studs. On one corner of the carb, a bolt couldn't be started because it was too long and hit a linkage mounting point, so a stud had to be used.

Used a 1" fan spacer from summit / allstar performance to install a low-profile flex fan. The 250 sits so low that the fan was hitting the radiator outlet neck and the blades had to be shortened.

For the immediate future:

Install the Moroso battery cut-off switch I received from summit on a new Optima red top battery.

Install the new 1-wire, 1G, natural finish PowerMaster alternator I received from summit using the original alternator brackets and an original style v-belt. I hope the alternator clears the battery, otherwise I'll have to relocate the battery.

Install the Dayco 1.5" X 10.75" upper radiator flex hose I received from summit.

As it turns out, the "stock length" cup and ball pushrods CI sells for a 250 with the CI adjustable rocker arms are significantly too long, and even the "- 1/8" " cup and ball pushrods CI sells for that same combo are still too long, so I ordered some shorter custom pushrods from Smith Brothers, ETA next weekend. My block is decked, but only .030, and my head wasn't milled at all. I don't see how the CI pushrods would fit in any 250 with adjustable rockers.

Thanks
Bob the Builder
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #42 by bmbm40 » Fri Feb 21, 2014 7:33 pm

You sure have a nice engine build coming together, been following the progress avidly. What machining was involved to use the 300 rods?
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #43 by 62Ranchero200 » Sat Feb 22, 2014 12:16 pm

bmbm40 wrote:You sure have a nice engine build coming together, been following the progress avidly. What machining was involved to use the 300 rods?


I used "early" 300 rods.

IIRC, the 300 and the 250 have the same rod journal size, and the early 300 rod has the 912 piston pin bore (the late 300 rods have a .975 piston pin bore). No machining would have been involved to simply use the 300 rods "as is", although I had them machined for ARP rod bolts, the beams polished, and balanced, so some minor machining was required for those procedures. Use of the 300 rods will require a very short custom piston.

Thanks
Bob
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #44 by bmbm40 » Sat Feb 22, 2014 8:15 pm

Good to know, was hoping the 300 rod would zero the deck height with a stock piston. So for me it will be 255 pistons when able to build my 250 block. Thanks.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #45 by Gene Fiore » Sat Feb 22, 2014 10:26 pm

bmbm40 wrote:So for me it will be 255 pistons when able to build my 250 block. Thanks.

Make sure you have sufficient combustion chamber size or your static compression will likely be higher than you may want.
1971 Maverick, 250I6, crank knife-edged, Clay Smith 278 solid cam, .040 over 255 V8 pistons, 10.5 to 1, Custom 500 Holley 2V on Classic Inlines Aluminum cylinder head, 1.6 rockers, Hooker header, DUI dizzy, C-4 w/2800 stall, 8" 3.55 det locker

Best ET 1/4 mile: 14.92 at 89.61 mph on 1/12/2013

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #46 by 62Ranchero200 » Sun Mar 02, 2014 12:35 pm

The Powermaster alternator did interfere with the battery tray, but it wasn't difficult to raise the battery tray about an inch to clear the alternator:

Image

Received an upper radiator hose (a Dayco flex hose) that fit, and the Smith Brothers pushrods I ordered. The pushrods are significantly shorter than even the "-1/8" pushrods from CI. Also, the cup is slightly larger in diameter and shaped a little differently, I think it will fit the balls on the pushrod adjusters better.

Image

Thanks
Bob the Builder
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #47 by Gene Fiore » Sun Mar 02, 2014 4:56 pm

That pushrod on the left looks like what I have.
1971 Maverick, 250I6, crank knife-edged, Clay Smith 278 solid cam, .040 over 255 V8 pistons, 10.5 to 1, Custom 500 Holley 2V on Classic Inlines Aluminum cylinder head, 1.6 rockers, Hooker header, DUI dizzy, C-4 w/2800 stall, 8" 3.55 det locker

Best ET 1/4 mile: 14.92 at 89.61 mph on 1/12/2013

My Classic Inlines Photo Page

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Aluminum - not a satisfactory battery ground?

Post #48 by 62Ranchero200 » Sat Mar 08, 2014 10:21 pm

Greetings Ford Six Fans,

I hooked up the new Optima battery and experienced a strange electrical issue - accessories would work, but the engine would not crank. I wasn't ready to start the engine, but needed to crank the engine to get each cylinder into position to adjust the valves.

The battery was grounded to the engine on the thermostat housing stud, which threaded into the aluminum head. When I bought the car, the battery had been grounded to the thermostat housing stud, but that was an iron head. Finally, I moved the battery ground to a stud I was using for the upper alternator bracket, and the engine cranked with no problem. It seems that the ground through the aluminum head wasn't good enough - a small current flow could be supported, but as soon as I tried to crank the engine, the ground wasn't good enough for that higher current flow.

I wasn't aware that aluminum wasn't as good for grounding as iron - has anyone else encountered this?

On other notes, managed to spin the oil pump with a drill while copilot noted the oil pressure - a maximum of 55 psi at the drill's highest speed to 850 RPM. Also, cranked the engine with a compression gauge on #1 cylinder and noted a maximum of 150 psi cranking pressure.

Still have to finish making up the lower radiator house, the transmission cooler lines, the throttle cable bracket, and hooking up the DUI.

Thanks
Bob the Builder
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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62Ranchero200
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Location: Houston, TX
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Re: Starting my build very soon

Post #49 by 62Ranchero200 » Thu Mar 13, 2014 8:44 am

Adjusted all the valves - the adjustors are almost all the way down - most of them only have about two threads above the lock nut. I still believe that the CI 250 cup and ball pushrods are too long for the adjustable rocker assemblies CI sells now. They might work with OEM adjustable pushrod assemblies, most of which are from 144s and 170s if I remember correctly.

Think I figured out how to make a lower radiator hose that works with a Jeg's 1 3/4" aluminum 90 degree fitting (200 radiator outlet and 250 water pump inlet are different sizes) . Unfortunately, someone stole the FedEx box from my front door before I got home from work, so I have to order another one (about a ten day delay).

While I'm waiting on the fitting, I plan to make up the transmission cooler lines (C4 to radiator, a little tricky to route through the headers), make the throttle cable bracket for the Lokar cable (I've done that before), and hook up the DUI (only two wires to hook up, 12V for ignition and the tach lead).

Once I get the engine running, I have to take the Ranchero to a muffler shop and to the transmission shop for adjustments.

Thanks
Bob the Builder
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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62Ranchero200
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Posts: 440
Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 10:38 am
Location: Houston, TX
Contact:

Made the throttle cable bracket yesterday

Post #50 by 62Ranchero200 » Sun Mar 23, 2014 10:15 am

Since the last update I ran the transmission cooler lines using 5/16" coated steel lines from O'Reilly, and installed the DUI. The stock distributor clamp seems to work with the DUI. Wiring to the DUI is a little short; may have to extend it, but maybe not, depending on which way I have to turn it to set the timing.

After considering several options for the throttle cable bracket, decided to use the boss on the extreme left front of the block (between the water pump and the distributor) where the stock lifting tab was mounted. Used fairly heavy gauge steel because I don't want it to flex. The bracket basically looks like a large "L" - like a carpenter's square, with one leg of the "L" being vertical between the water pump and distributor, and the other leg being horizontal slightly above the top of the valve cover. The bottom of the vertical leg, where the bracket mounts to the boss, is offset to accommodate the DUI, which is larger than the stock DS. I cut out a cardboard pattern first, then used that to cut a 1' square plate of mild steel into the desired shape with an angle grinder and a metal cutting disc.

All that remains is to prime and paint the throttle cable bracket, then I can permanently install it and hook up the Lokar throttle cable.

Still waiting on a radiator hose fitting to replace the one that was stolen from my front door (FedEx delivery). :(

Decided to reuse the "Power by Ford" script valve cover that I had on the 200; it will need to be sanded and repainted the Ford dark blue.

Thanks
Bob the Builder
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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