Turbo Projects - Status Reports?
- Thread starter broncr
- Start date
A
Anonymous
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My plans have officially been shelved, I'm now looking for a 351. 
A
Anonymous
Guest
Project hasn't gotten shelved yet. Head and manifolds are STILL in the shop, just picked up some head studs from Eddie. Oil pan is in progress.
Time to fuel the fire!
I'm looking at a special 4-bbl blow-through carb to fit the Log, X-flow and OHC sixes. The carb follows the old Gale Banks turbo set-ups, but instead of a box, it has simple boost referencing and an enrichment ciruit which allows the carb to deal with charge density issues. There are no floats in it.
The jets are adjustable via a screw driver.
I hate EFI. Two weeks ago, I was at my favorite annual public road drag race, and all the injected cars were running badly, with fuel and delivery problems because they were unable to tune there rides properly. LS1 Holden Commodores never got under the 14 second mark, and turbo Nissan Skyline GTS's and GTR's were useless, backfiring jokes. One guy, from Mag and Turbo in Dunedin, had a Lexus LS400 engine with turbo in a striped out Series 2 Mazda RX-7. It did low 11.4's. Mind you, with 2200 pounds soaking wet with a 200 pound Kiwi in the racing seat, even 300 hp would do that. And I'm pretty sure there was over 450 hp there, because he was unable to hook up till the 660 foot mark. That is a multi-thosand dollar combo by a professional bunch of car tuners with a dyno, and sales back-up from a big company.
The rest were just unable to do anything interesting with there thousand dollar set-ups. Ricer 1998-2004 Nissan 200SX Turbos were doing 15 second quarters all day, while tripple carbed sixes and were being peddled by back yarders, doing much worse. It was ironic that three 200 hp 2 liter 200sx turbos, stock, were so well sorted, but the native Aussie sixes, with years on info from experts, were doing 18 to 16.5 seconds. But then, joy of joys, there was a sole 3000 pound 265 Valiant Charger with a 500 Holley 2-bbl doing 15 second quarters all day. 33 years older than the 200SX's, stock as a rock, and cleaning up turbos! Yeeeehooooo!. The modified Holden and Ford sixes were worse that some stock examples. What does a 265 with a turbo do? 12 seconds from a Pedator carbed draw through in the Kiwi drag racing series in the early 1990's. Somewhere, we are missing the innovation and skills to do better on less dollars!
Check out Does 10s. He's got the right idea! A stock old 250 with some radical pipe work, great quality exhast, and enough faith in his own workmanship to have his misses take the 63 Falcon for its inaugural blatt in front of a crowd of thousands. I mean, hellllllloooooo???? Isn't the guy a hero? More like a messiah in my book.
Turbo guys here need to focus on good fuel delivery, and using available parts. For less than 1500 bucks an aftermarket computer costs, I could make a blow-through carb which can use stock off the shelf bits, and then just a fuel-control valve and return line can be used to deliver the correct air/fuel mixture. Then you can use all the stock 300 aftermarket gear, and basically raise the boost level in steps, richening the jets with a screw driver until the car runs right on a dyno, on a deserted road, or at the drags. There are kits which allow tailoring of the Holley carb jets in this manner.
I'm not being negative. I used to think electronics were the answer. Maybe on an 4.9 OBDII 96 f150, but not on a 20 year old 300.
We need to share the sort of detail Megasquirt are sharing, but forget the electronics. Check out Bowling and Grippos Megasquirt site, where these guys have shared so much on the needs of the air/fuel curve, ignition, cams, and whatever else has bearing on performance. What they have done is tossed the cloak and dagger nature of EFI, and just shared everything. There are Aussies, Swedes, Canuks and Brits dipping into a freindly prise pool of information to make everything from little stationary to 460 cube big blocks with dual throttle bodies run like champions!
The 1984 Mini Metro Turbo and 1980 -on Lotus Esprit Turbo have used blow-through turbos with TO3 Garrett blowers, and Lotus had those things very well sorted because they were able to richen the mixture when the boost pressure grew. The only thing that stopped those is fuel injection and US Federal Emission regs. They were technical sucesses. If you check the HardCore forum, there are a list of three types of turbo case studies, so you can decide for yourself if the kit you are planning on is likely to succead.
I've yet to see a draw through turbo which is reliable and pleasing to any driver on a long term basis. At the drags, yeah, it could be a freekin weapon of assult, but most of us are looking at daily drivers.
Things like goo d old Propane (LPG) turbo systems which Ak Miller has used from Pikes Peak in a 351 open wheeler to big 460 motor homes have for years compensated for boost increase, and richen the mixture when set up under load. We all need to get our heads together, and group our resources to run more gasoline turbos which won't run into detonation problems, or fuel delivery problems. As much of the original stuff needs to be kept as possible, and the critical things, like good turbo exhasts and intakes and carbs and ignitions can be fleshed out. If a guy like Ak could do it on his own, then we can with all the resources of experience the world has to offer.
We all want the same thing....cost effective speed.
Panic has listed some details on boost referencing the Holley or whatever carb your thinking of placing 6 to 12 pounds of boost on.
I'm prepared to share my ideas, subject to the scrutiny of experts like Does 10s or people like Jack who have dealt with EFI before. They are not my own, they are stollen form long time Turbo Ford Pinto punters like Ak Miller and Jim Flynn. Totally American, not some kind of hearasy from the Antipodes....
I haven't yet made a gasoline turbo, but from what I've learned from diesel and propane turbos, I'm certain we could make a huge impact on those dormant projects.
Here's a fuel delivery system okay for up to 3 to 6 psi of boost if you use a stock fuel pump. Stock Ford pumps on 300's give upm to 7 psi. If you use a special double electric item, you could go over 10 psi. I'm recompling a graph to jet it for my project engine, but meantime, heres some info.
It's a pleasure to baffle you with more BS. Here goes...
Here is a description for a floatless scavanged fuel bowl on a carb.The system employs two fuel pumps.
Fuel Pump One delivers fuel to the float bowl, where it is prevented from sloshing around by having fuel tank filler foam inside. A stand pipe in the float bowl has its top edge at the fuel level. Fuel rising above this level pours down the standpip and is drawn back into the fuel tank by a second electric pump. This system is very simple yet extremely effective. (According to David Vizard, an offroad Baja racer with an OHC Pinto engine in the back could be stood on its nose and the engine would still run as if the car were horizontal. Fuel slosh was reduced to a point that the engine would run under any jolting and bouncing conditions that the driver could endure. Carburation was clean and precise despite racing conditions so violent that the driver suffered nose-bleed s and bloodshot eyes
)
To make the system as effective as possible, there are a few points to note.
1. An electic pump far beyond the flow rate of the input mechanical fuel pump on the engine. This is a bowl to tank scavange pump. It prevents flooding as long as it flows more thn the input.
2. The incomming jet, located where the needle and seat valve used to be, needs to be sized according to a chart supplied with Davids write-up. This ensures the jet is sized to only just provide enough fuel into the bowl at full thottle. This reduces the amount of fuel returned to the tank to the bare minimum. The jet sizes form the chart are recorded here:-
Inlet pump pressure at 3 psi (21 kPa)
SAE
net
at flywheel HP
per float bowl
....................Restrictor jet size (chamfered at 45 deg each end, with 0.010" margin to ensure non-turbulent flow)
50 hp............0.040", 40 thou or 1.0 mm
75 hp............0.048", or 1.22mm
100 hp..........0.055", or 1.40mm
125 hp..........0.062", or 1.58mm
150 hp..........0.069", or 1.75mm
175 hp..........0.073", or 1.85mm
200 hp..........0.079", or 2.00mm
inlet pump pressure at 4 psi (27.5 kPa)
SAE
net
at flywheel HP
per float bowl
....................Restrictor jet size (chamfered at 45 deg each end, with 0.010" margin to ensure non-turbulent flow)
50 hp............0.038", 38 thou or 0.97 mm
75 hp............0.045", or 1.14mm
100 hp..........0.051", or 1.29mm
125 hp..........0.057", or 1.44mm
150 hp..........0.063", or 1.60mm
175 hp..........0.070", or 1.78mm
200 hp..........0.073", or 1.85mm
inlet pump pressure at 5 psi (34.5 kPa)
SAE
net
at flywheel HP
per float bowl
....................Restrictor jet size (chamfered at 45 deg each end, with 0.010" margin to ensure non-turbulent flow)
50 hp............0.034", 34 thou or 0.86 mm
75 hp............0.042", or 1.07mm
100 hp..........0.048", or 1.22mm
125 hp..........0.055", or 1.40mm
150 hp..........0.060", or 1.52mm
175 hp..........0.065", or 1.65mm
200 hp..........0.068", or 1.73mm
inlet pump pressure at 6 psi (41.3 kPa)
SAE
net
at flywheel HP
per float bowl
....................Restrictor jet size (chamfered at 45 deg each end, with 0.010" margin to ensure non-turbulent flow)
50 hp............0.032", 32 thou or 0.81 mm
75 hp............0.040", or 1.02mm
100 hp..........0.046", or 1.17mm
125 hp..........0.051", or 1.29mm
150 hp..........0.058", or 1.47mm
175 hp..........0.061", or 1.55mm
200 hp..........0.066", or 1.68mm
*Scource:How to Modify Ford SOHC Engines (Pinto/Cortina/Capri/Sierra 1.3- 2.0 litre 1970 to 1982) by David Vizard, published 1984 by Fountain Press.
Page 167, Off Roading the Pinto Engine
ISBN 0 86343 9856, Dewy Decimal No 629.2504 Viz
Unkindly Used without Permission
Deano
I'm looking at a special 4-bbl blow-through carb to fit the Log, X-flow and OHC sixes. The carb follows the old Gale Banks turbo set-ups, but instead of a box, it has simple boost referencing and an enrichment ciruit which allows the carb to deal with charge density issues. There are no floats in it.
The jets are adjustable via a screw driver.
I hate EFI. Two weeks ago, I was at my favorite annual public road drag race, and all the injected cars were running badly, with fuel and delivery problems because they were unable to tune there rides properly. LS1 Holden Commodores never got under the 14 second mark, and turbo Nissan Skyline GTS's and GTR's were useless, backfiring jokes. One guy, from Mag and Turbo in Dunedin, had a Lexus LS400 engine with turbo in a striped out Series 2 Mazda RX-7. It did low 11.4's. Mind you, with 2200 pounds soaking wet with a 200 pound Kiwi in the racing seat, even 300 hp would do that. And I'm pretty sure there was over 450 hp there, because he was unable to hook up till the 660 foot mark. That is a multi-thosand dollar combo by a professional bunch of car tuners with a dyno, and sales back-up from a big company.
The rest were just unable to do anything interesting with there thousand dollar set-ups. Ricer 1998-2004 Nissan 200SX Turbos were doing 15 second quarters all day, while tripple carbed sixes and were being peddled by back yarders, doing much worse. It was ironic that three 200 hp 2 liter 200sx turbos, stock, were so well sorted, but the native Aussie sixes, with years on info from experts, were doing 18 to 16.5 seconds. But then, joy of joys, there was a sole 3000 pound 265 Valiant Charger with a 500 Holley 2-bbl doing 15 second quarters all day. 33 years older than the 200SX's, stock as a rock, and cleaning up turbos! Yeeeehooooo!. The modified Holden and Ford sixes were worse that some stock examples. What does a 265 with a turbo do? 12 seconds from a Pedator carbed draw through in the Kiwi drag racing series in the early 1990's. Somewhere, we are missing the innovation and skills to do better on less dollars!
Check out Does 10s. He's got the right idea! A stock old 250 with some radical pipe work, great quality exhast, and enough faith in his own workmanship to have his misses take the 63 Falcon for its inaugural blatt in front of a crowd of thousands. I mean, hellllllloooooo???? Isn't the guy a hero? More like a messiah in my book.
Turbo guys here need to focus on good fuel delivery, and using available parts. For less than 1500 bucks an aftermarket computer costs, I could make a blow-through carb which can use stock off the shelf bits, and then just a fuel-control valve and return line can be used to deliver the correct air/fuel mixture. Then you can use all the stock 300 aftermarket gear, and basically raise the boost level in steps, richening the jets with a screw driver until the car runs right on a dyno, on a deserted road, or at the drags. There are kits which allow tailoring of the Holley carb jets in this manner.
I'm not being negative. I used to think electronics were the answer. Maybe on an 4.9 OBDII 96 f150, but not on a 20 year old 300.
We need to share the sort of detail Megasquirt are sharing, but forget the electronics. Check out Bowling and Grippos Megasquirt site, where these guys have shared so much on the needs of the air/fuel curve, ignition, cams, and whatever else has bearing on performance. What they have done is tossed the cloak and dagger nature of EFI, and just shared everything. There are Aussies, Swedes, Canuks and Brits dipping into a freindly prise pool of information to make everything from little stationary to 460 cube big blocks with dual throttle bodies run like champions!
The 1984 Mini Metro Turbo and 1980 -on Lotus Esprit Turbo have used blow-through turbos with TO3 Garrett blowers, and Lotus had those things very well sorted because they were able to richen the mixture when the boost pressure grew. The only thing that stopped those is fuel injection and US Federal Emission regs. They were technical sucesses. If you check the HardCore forum, there are a list of three types of turbo case studies, so you can decide for yourself if the kit you are planning on is likely to succead.
I've yet to see a draw through turbo which is reliable and pleasing to any driver on a long term basis. At the drags, yeah, it could be a freekin weapon of assult, but most of us are looking at daily drivers.
Things like goo d old Propane (LPG) turbo systems which Ak Miller has used from Pikes Peak in a 351 open wheeler to big 460 motor homes have for years compensated for boost increase, and richen the mixture when set up under load. We all need to get our heads together, and group our resources to run more gasoline turbos which won't run into detonation problems, or fuel delivery problems. As much of the original stuff needs to be kept as possible, and the critical things, like good turbo exhasts and intakes and carbs and ignitions can be fleshed out. If a guy like Ak could do it on his own, then we can with all the resources of experience the world has to offer.
We all want the same thing....cost effective speed.
Panic has listed some details on boost referencing the Holley or whatever carb your thinking of placing 6 to 12 pounds of boost on.
I'm prepared to share my ideas, subject to the scrutiny of experts like Does 10s or people like Jack who have dealt with EFI before. They are not my own, they are stollen form long time Turbo Ford Pinto punters like Ak Miller and Jim Flynn. Totally American, not some kind of hearasy from the Antipodes....
I haven't yet made a gasoline turbo, but from what I've learned from diesel and propane turbos, I'm certain we could make a huge impact on those dormant projects.
Here's a fuel delivery system okay for up to 3 to 6 psi of boost if you use a stock fuel pump. Stock Ford pumps on 300's give upm to 7 psi. If you use a special double electric item, you could go over 10 psi. I'm recompling a graph to jet it for my project engine, but meantime, heres some info.
It's a pleasure to baffle you with more BS. Here goes...
Here is a description for a floatless scavanged fuel bowl on a carb.The system employs two fuel pumps.
Fuel Pump One delivers fuel to the float bowl, where it is prevented from sloshing around by having fuel tank filler foam inside. A stand pipe in the float bowl has its top edge at the fuel level. Fuel rising above this level pours down the standpip and is drawn back into the fuel tank by a second electric pump. This system is very simple yet extremely effective. (According to David Vizard, an offroad Baja racer with an OHC Pinto engine in the back could be stood on its nose and the engine would still run as if the car were horizontal. Fuel slosh was reduced to a point that the engine would run under any jolting and bouncing conditions that the driver could endure. Carburation was clean and precise despite racing conditions so violent that the driver suffered nose-bleed s and bloodshot eyes
)To make the system as effective as possible, there are a few points to note.
1. An electic pump far beyond the flow rate of the input mechanical fuel pump on the engine. This is a bowl to tank scavange pump. It prevents flooding as long as it flows more thn the input.
2. The incomming jet, located where the needle and seat valve used to be, needs to be sized according to a chart supplied with Davids write-up. This ensures the jet is sized to only just provide enough fuel into the bowl at full thottle. This reduces the amount of fuel returned to the tank to the bare minimum. The jet sizes form the chart are recorded here:-
Inlet pump pressure at 3 psi (21 kPa)
SAE
net
at flywheel HP
per float bowl
....................Restrictor jet size (chamfered at 45 deg each end, with 0.010" margin to ensure non-turbulent flow)
50 hp............0.040", 40 thou or 1.0 mm
75 hp............0.048", or 1.22mm
100 hp..........0.055", or 1.40mm
125 hp..........0.062", or 1.58mm
150 hp..........0.069", or 1.75mm
175 hp..........0.073", or 1.85mm
200 hp..........0.079", or 2.00mm
inlet pump pressure at 4 psi (27.5 kPa)
SAE
net
at flywheel HP
per float bowl
....................Restrictor jet size (chamfered at 45 deg each end, with 0.010" margin to ensure non-turbulent flow)
50 hp............0.038", 38 thou or 0.97 mm
75 hp............0.045", or 1.14mm
100 hp..........0.051", or 1.29mm
125 hp..........0.057", or 1.44mm
150 hp..........0.063", or 1.60mm
175 hp..........0.070", or 1.78mm
200 hp..........0.073", or 1.85mm
inlet pump pressure at 5 psi (34.5 kPa)
SAE
net
at flywheel HP
per float bowl
....................Restrictor jet size (chamfered at 45 deg each end, with 0.010" margin to ensure non-turbulent flow)
50 hp............0.034", 34 thou or 0.86 mm
75 hp............0.042", or 1.07mm
100 hp..........0.048", or 1.22mm
125 hp..........0.055", or 1.40mm
150 hp..........0.060", or 1.52mm
175 hp..........0.065", or 1.65mm
200 hp..........0.068", or 1.73mm
inlet pump pressure at 6 psi (41.3 kPa)
SAE
net
at flywheel HP
per float bowl
....................Restrictor jet size (chamfered at 45 deg each end, with 0.010" margin to ensure non-turbulent flow)
50 hp............0.032", 32 thou or 0.81 mm
75 hp............0.040", or 1.02mm
100 hp..........0.046", or 1.17mm
125 hp..........0.051", or 1.29mm
150 hp..........0.058", or 1.47mm
175 hp..........0.061", or 1.55mm
200 hp..........0.066", or 1.68mm
*Scource:How to Modify Ford SOHC Engines (Pinto/Cortina/Capri/Sierra 1.3- 2.0 litre 1970 to 1982) by David Vizard, published 1984 by Fountain Press.
Page 167, Off Roading the Pinto Engine
ISBN 0 86343 9856, Dewy Decimal No 629.2504 Viz
Unkindly Used without Permission
Deano
OK Deano,
I'm baffled.
I'll be thinking about a floatless scavenging fuel bowl all day ( & then some). I'll probably be tipping my head sideways a lot .
Would one want to fill the area ABOVE the (normal) float level COMPLETELY ( or nearly so) with FT foam and provide an outlet/pump drainback? The standpipe/pumped return seems to be a bit gravity dependant. On a Holley,the fuel level check plug hole might provide a handy scavenging port...
I've gotta admit - I haven't given this enough thought so far ( & never, before...) Like many (I assume) I just always figured the carb engineers would have already done this if it were applicable.
Bob
I'm baffled.
I'll be thinking about a floatless scavenging fuel bowl all day ( & then some). I'll probably be tipping my head sideways a lot
.Would one want to fill the area ABOVE the (normal) float level COMPLETELY ( or nearly so) with FT foam and provide an outlet/pump drainback? The standpipe/pumped return seems to be a bit gravity dependant. On a Holley,the fuel level check plug hole might provide a handy scavenging port...
I've gotta admit - I haven't given this enough thought so far ( & never, before...) Like many (I assume) I just always figured the carb engineers would have already done this if it were applicable.
Bob
A
Anonymous
Guest
Hey you mite what to check out this site ( turbo mustangs.com) lots of
shared information, one form blow through carb. Great site !
shared information, one form blow through carb. Great site !
BIGBLOCKCAPRI460
Active member
the head work is done [bowl & chamber]
pistons are being remade too thin
5/6 more weeks for the steel billet rods
maybe the end of june.
pistons are being remade too thin
5/6 more weeks for the steel billet rods
maybe the end of june.
Patford, what a great site!
Saw yet another twin cam Volvo to Lima 2.3 block head swap, and the Holset HX35 Cummins truck turbo looks great. I've seen these around on some trucks. Hmmmm!!!
These are the guys to link in with!
http://msvorinich.itgo.com/October_23.html
http://msvorinich.itgo.com/Jan0703.html
Saw yet another twin cam Volvo to Lima 2.3 block head swap, and the Holset HX35 Cummins truck turbo looks great. I've seen these around on some trucks. Hmmmm!!!
These are the guys to link in with!
http://msvorinich.itgo.com/October_23.html
http://msvorinich.itgo.com/Jan0703.html
Xecute,
Thanks for the cudos!
For what it's worth, my wife's '63 TurboFalcon is using an almost stock Holley 2300. The only mods are a removed choke horn, filled choke rod hole, and a solid float. That's it! Even the power valve is still in it. No rocket science here!
Always remember the K.I.S.S. Principle.
Later,
Will
Thanks for the cudos!
For what it's worth, my wife's '63 TurboFalcon is using an almost stock Holley 2300. The only mods are a removed choke horn, filled choke rod hole, and a solid float. That's it! Even the power valve is still in it. No rocket science here!
Always remember the K.I.S.S. Principle.
Later,
Will
A
Anonymous
Guest
The block itself is empty, but ready. Head is in the shop. I am in the process of ordering parts. I ran acrost an Air research T3 and scooped it for $200. I'm workin with a speed density setup, gonna have to call Hypertech before its all over.
goinbroke2
Well-known member
This is all very interesting, I'm curious on one comment though.
I've yet to see a draw through turbo which is reliable and pleasing to any driver on a long term basis. At the drags, yeah, it could be a freekin weapon of assult, but most of us are looking at daily drivers.
What is wrong with a draw through system? I'm not being confrontational, just curious as I thought this would be the simplest way to go. Instead of building a box or getting special parts for being pressurized etc, I'd just go draw through. I've never got into the nuts&bolts of a turbo, building or running one, in fact I'm not a turbo fan...just interested.
(gotta learn something new each day!) Lol!
I've yet to see a draw through turbo which is reliable and pleasing to any driver on a long term basis. At the drags, yeah, it could be a freekin weapon of assult, but most of us are looking at daily drivers.
What is wrong with a draw through system? I'm not being confrontational, just curious as I thought this would be the simplest way to go. Instead of building a box or getting special parts for being pressurized etc, I'd just go draw through. I've never got into the nuts&bolts of a turbo, building or running one, in fact I'm not a turbo fan...just interested.
(gotta learn something new each day!) Lol!
rhetor
Famous Member
i believe 40bob is still working on the turbo exhaust manifold. If he does finish these and sell them, i'm sure we'll see a lot more turbo 300 users on this board. The only really hard parts are mounting the turbo and routing the exhaust and intake. Well, except for the tuning. But to get the thing installed, 40bob could help us out a real lot!
A
Anonymous
Guest
Goinbroke..
Consider reafing Corky Bell's book "Maximum Boost." As he said in his book: Draw through systems prevent the use of an intercooler (Preventing the use of serious boost) Are prone to icing belof 50F due to the pressure drop (This requires intense pre-heating of the carb. A truly mindless concept...Extra heat= bad!) The fuel/air mix must be plumbed "downhill" at all time as it is prone to puddling. (this upsets cold idle and throttle response. ) The information I have gathered in addition to the turbo manifolds and plumbing that we have built for many enthusiasts has been quite informative. I will sum it up breifly: Draw through systems can be made to work and even sometimes reasonably well however it appears to be a better method for those with no money and a desire to say that they have a turbo... (And a bunch of APC garbage in the windows...) They are the cheapest possible way to bolt on a turbo in conjunction with a carb and burn lots of fuel with a small power gain! A blow through system operates best with a BOV and permits the use of an intercooler (Permitting substantial increases in boost pressures) They are more complex to the casual observer, and can cost a bit more $$$ to do properly. However the benefits of "Doing it right" grossly outweigh the thrill of barely squeaking by and crooning to everyone that they "got a Hemi", er turbo...
Here is the quote in Bell's book regarding this subject: "Has the controversy of blow through VS draw through carb systems been resolved?" "Not only yes, but hell yes. Blow through idles better, starts better, runs smoother at low speed, and produces quicker throttle response and lower emissions. An intercooler can only be used with a blow through application. A draw through system is a dead fish."
Hope this was helpful,
Fabricator
Consider reafing Corky Bell's book "Maximum Boost." As he said in his book: Draw through systems prevent the use of an intercooler (Preventing the use of serious boost) Are prone to icing belof 50F due to the pressure drop (This requires intense pre-heating of the carb. A truly mindless concept...Extra heat= bad!) The fuel/air mix must be plumbed "downhill" at all time as it is prone to puddling. (this upsets cold idle and throttle response. ) The information I have gathered in addition to the turbo manifolds and plumbing that we have built for many enthusiasts has been quite informative. I will sum it up breifly: Draw through systems can be made to work and even sometimes reasonably well however it appears to be a better method for those with no money and a desire to say that they have a turbo... (And a bunch of APC garbage in the windows...) They are the cheapest possible way to bolt on a turbo in conjunction with a carb and burn lots of fuel with a small power gain! A blow through system operates best with a BOV and permits the use of an intercooler (Permitting substantial increases in boost pressures) They are more complex to the casual observer, and can cost a bit more $$$ to do properly. However the benefits of "Doing it right" grossly outweigh the thrill of barely squeaking by and crooning to everyone that they "got a Hemi", er turbo...
Here is the quote in Bell's book regarding this subject: "Has the controversy of blow through VS draw through carb systems been resolved?" "Not only yes, but hell yes. Blow through idles better, starts better, runs smoother at low speed, and produces quicker throttle response and lower emissions. An intercooler can only be used with a blow through application. A draw through system is a dead fish."
Hope this was helpful,
Fabricator
well for me I came to the conclusion I need a better turbo...and a second car. so I am going ot try one last time to repair my merkur so the turbo is being donated towards that. I picked up supplies to CC out the two heads I haev and I think th enew 200 is gonna get a cam and a deck so that I can swap the 250 head on to it when I turbo. gonna finish up the exhaust later this month and at least be able to hang a turbo on the motor for now. will get the plumbing ready on the the 200's oil pan and maybe drop a couple baffles in it. most of my hold up was being away at school and now it is funding
Nick
Nick
66Sprint6
Famous Member
My turbo project has been shelved as well all cause my C4 died, but oh well, T5 swap is pretty kool, I just wish I could afford both the T5 AND the turbo. Im pushing for next winter at the earliest but Im beggining to doubt Ill have the funds even at that point. I have the turbo and intercooler, now I need to start getting more stuff for it and start saving money for that stuff, lol
Matt
all cause my C4 died, but oh well, T5 swap is pretty kool, I just wish I could afford both the T5 AND the turbo. Im pushing for next winter at the earliest but Im beggining to doubt Ill have the funds even at that point. I have the turbo and intercooler, now I need to start getting more stuff for it and start saving money for that stuff, lolMatt
A
Anonymous
Guest
I still have my efi intake and my turbo off a buick GN. I am still waiting on my business to start making money so I can rebuild my 300 and then I will EFI it PROPERLY. After I work out those bugs I will then turbo it. Or I may just sell the intake, turbo, and a 100HP 7.3L powerstroke chip I have for some stuff...... I don't know at this moment. I am kinda stuck on sinking money into my solo-II car ('85 toyota mr2). But alas my F-150 will still crank on first try even after sitting for a week or two. I do need a new tranny BAD too. Oh well..... have fun
A
Anonymous
Guest
almost finisht my project , d8 head , cut of intake,s and ad the crossflow EFI intake to it with a special design adapterplate, and T3 turbo with water intercooler !
and almost finisht my aluminium new design flywheel with magaan clutch plate [ removeble ] for the turbo setup.
lots of work to do , but i,m going , i think in a few weeks when getting my parts that i orderd , i get this thing running !! with the M/S computer !
and almost finisht my aluminium new design flywheel with magaan clutch plate [ removeble ] for the turbo setup.
lots of work to do , but i,m going , i think in a few weeks when getting my parts that i orderd , i get this thing running !! with the M/S computer !