A
Anonymous
Guest
I had this on Aussie six's, but little interest shown.
I am still building my 200ci cast iron xflow turbo motor. I've almost finished the shortblock. It's only taken 3 months. It's got ARP rod bolts, ACL Race Pistons 8.5cc dish, 450 thou lift cam only a few extra degrees duration than stock, hard exhaust valve seats, crane springs and retainers, redline 2barrel manifold, cast zorst manifold, Holset turbo (small TO4 equivalent, maybe a "s" trim equivalent), cut down truck intercooler 35mm thick 1metre wide 320mm deep (fits between the headlights, shame about the grille).
I have welded some baffles in the sump and some 100mm round pipe to the sides to increase the capacity, looks terrible, kept on leaking from tiny holes in my welding so I kept on adding more weld with my tiny MIG. I'm an office jockey not a welder. Turbo drainback is 1/2 inch internal at it's narrowest point.
I may run the motor without the turbo for a while because I havent got a wastegate. I spent that money on the single rail gearbox rebuild.
I have a few questions. My turbo was initally second hand but now reconditioned. It came with the copper or brass tube for the inlet of the turbo oil feed. its about a 8mm internal diameter. I was going to run off the oil sender/ pressure guage adapter thingy. When i have seen turbo installs the oil feed always looks smaller, more like steel brake line or thin flexible hose. If i use my big pipe am i going to lose too much oil pressure? It looks like the oil goes, pump, filter, lifters, cam then mains. Am I right?
Should i use brake line size pipe/hose instead?
I bought an oil cooler adapter which spins on between the block and the oil filter. Should I run a thin line from a t-piece there instead?
Clutch.
About 4 years ago i picked up a twin plate Ford V8 clutch. It looks barely used. Queanbeyan Engine Service (my excellent machinists, plastiguage doesn't lie) balanced my motor with this clutch on it. On getting the filthy bell housing cleaned up while the engine was at the shop i started to wonder if my assumption that it would fit inside the bellhousing was accurate. The motor is still on the stand so its too hard to mock up at this stage. Anyone put this clutch in a single rail bellhousing? I think I will at least have to change the pivot for the fork. The bell looks flatter at the top. If i have to clearance the cast iron bell what do I patch it with?
If nobody can answer the bell housing issue i understand. I will post a topic if it works without significant modification. The twin plate bolts to the exisitng 3 holes tapped to the 6 flywheel. Make sure you use Grade 8 bolts or better. My car is a wagon with twin lpg tanks, heavy, so I thought the big clutch would cope more reliably than the stock item.
Dom
I am still building my 200ci cast iron xflow turbo motor. I've almost finished the shortblock. It's only taken 3 months. It's got ARP rod bolts, ACL Race Pistons 8.5cc dish, 450 thou lift cam only a few extra degrees duration than stock, hard exhaust valve seats, crane springs and retainers, redline 2barrel manifold, cast zorst manifold, Holset turbo (small TO4 equivalent, maybe a "s" trim equivalent), cut down truck intercooler 35mm thick 1metre wide 320mm deep (fits between the headlights, shame about the grille).
I have welded some baffles in the sump and some 100mm round pipe to the sides to increase the capacity, looks terrible, kept on leaking from tiny holes in my welding so I kept on adding more weld with my tiny MIG. I'm an office jockey not a welder. Turbo drainback is 1/2 inch internal at it's narrowest point.
I may run the motor without the turbo for a while because I havent got a wastegate. I spent that money on the single rail gearbox rebuild.
I have a few questions. My turbo was initally second hand but now reconditioned. It came with the copper or brass tube for the inlet of the turbo oil feed. its about a 8mm internal diameter. I was going to run off the oil sender/ pressure guage adapter thingy. When i have seen turbo installs the oil feed always looks smaller, more like steel brake line or thin flexible hose. If i use my big pipe am i going to lose too much oil pressure? It looks like the oil goes, pump, filter, lifters, cam then mains. Am I right?
Should i use brake line size pipe/hose instead?
I bought an oil cooler adapter which spins on between the block and the oil filter. Should I run a thin line from a t-piece there instead?
Clutch.
About 4 years ago i picked up a twin plate Ford V8 clutch. It looks barely used. Queanbeyan Engine Service (my excellent machinists, plastiguage doesn't lie) balanced my motor with this clutch on it. On getting the filthy bell housing cleaned up while the engine was at the shop i started to wonder if my assumption that it would fit inside the bellhousing was accurate. The motor is still on the stand so its too hard to mock up at this stage. Anyone put this clutch in a single rail bellhousing? I think I will at least have to change the pivot for the fork. The bell looks flatter at the top. If i have to clearance the cast iron bell what do I patch it with?
If nobody can answer the bell housing issue i understand. I will post a topic if it works without significant modification. The twin plate bolts to the exisitng 3 holes tapped to the 6 flywheel. Make sure you use Grade 8 bolts or better. My car is a wagon with twin lpg tanks, heavy, so I thought the big clutch would cope more reliably than the stock item.
Dom
