This will be fun

[Ikosix]

So I’m beginning to amass knowledge and parts for my project. I have a 1985 bronco. It currently has the original 5.0 and AOD tranny. I wish to build a boosted EFI 300. I want the rpm range to top out at about 4K. I purchased a parts truck for my son (82 f150) that has a good 300 in it. I also have a complete 300 from a 95 van that I’d like to use the intakes, front cover and serpentine set up from as well as any other sensors or other parts needed for EFI. I am thinking Holley or mega squirt for the engine management not sure yet there. I haven’t decided what transmission to use yet. Maybe the AOD. I have a NP435/Dana 20 setup I was thinking of using along with a torque splitter. I will be replacing both axles with 06 super duty style or if I can find a front Dana 44 from a 78-79 Ford.

I’m looking to build a reliable truck that’s at home on and off pavement and maybe do some light towing. From what I’ve been reading on the forums 10 lbs of boost seems to be my target. I don’t have unlimited funds but I will spend money to do it right. I would like to do as much of the work as possible as my skills will allow. I have some good experience mechanically and also really want to learn through the whole process. My 16 year old son will be learning along with me as he has a bullnose f150 he is putting together we’re doin the Offy/Sniper route there.

I have read tons on these forums and learned so much from a couple of gents. Thanks for this! I’m hoping to get input on my direction here and also help filling in the gaps. Any suggestions/questions are very welcome. That’s exactly why I’m here. You guys rock. I want a clear path to completion before I get knee deep into this.
My first step here is to get the 300 from the 82
On the stand and look it over then I’ll be asking for input as to what to tell the machine shop. Next in mind I’m thinking what Turbo setup will be best. I’ve bought a couple books you guys have mentioned. Light reading while I’m in the house!

 

[pmuller9]

The stock pistons will need to be replaced with at least a Hypereutectic cast piston.
If you want a little more strength margin you would need a forged piston form Autotec.

If you don't need power past 3500 rpm you can use a stock cam with a 1.75 ratio Chevy six rocker arm.
If you are going an use an automatic transmission where the torque converter stalls around 1500 rpm, then off idle response in not needed and you can use a larger turbo and cam.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qufkzkwyxoz8or9/Crower%20Cam.jpg?raw=1

The easiest route for a turbo exhaust manifold for low rpm application is to use the 300 HD exhaust manifold with a "J" pipe.

Headers with turbo adapter

I have been recently looking to see if i can find any headers for a my inline 6 with a turbo flange on it but i cant find anything but i have seen this image http://www.ckdesign-inc.com/images/Turbo/Manifold3.JPG But they dont sell it anymore so i was wondering if anyone knows of headers that i...

fordsix.com

If you are doing the manual transmission with the stock cam use a turbocharger with a compressor inducer between 49mm and 52mm.
If you do the automatic trans with the larger cam then the turbocharger can have a 52 to 54mm compressor inducer.

 

[Ikosix]

Thanks Pmuller9!! I will use the auto tech pistons for sure. I’m leaning towards the manual transmission but also would like a larger cam. Would you still recommend the same cam with the manual?

 

[pmuller9]

You can certainly use the larger cam with a manual trans.

There aren't any catalog forged pistons for the 300 six so a forged piston set will be custom.
The custom Autotec 4032 alloy pistons are $550 for a set of 6. They are the least expensive custom piston.

The Hypereutectic pistons are $80. FORD Sealed Power H519P 30 Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Pistons | Summit Racing

I would look at a Holset HX35 turbocharger from the 5.9 Cummins 24 valve six.
It should have a 54mm compressor inducer with 7 blades

 

[Ikosix]

Ok great. Thanks
Takin notes.

 

[Ikosix]

Ok. I’m gonna call auto tech today. Any idea where I can purchase the “j” pipe mentioned.

 

[pmuller9]

You don't have all the information at this time to order pistons.
The First thing you need to know is the piston's diameter.
This will be determined by your machinist after he figures out how much of an overbore will be required to straighten up the cylinder walls.

You will need to complete the cylinder head so the combustion chamber volume can be measured in order to calculate the piston dish volume for the correct engine compression ratio.

The block deck height needs to be measured after any possible machining and the connecting rod length needs to be checked after they have been resized to determine the piston pin height.

Once you have the actual cylinder bore, calculated piston dish volume and pin height then you can start to fill out the order form.

 

[pmuller9]

The J-bend adapter was fabricated by "curts56"
The following is a quote: Please click to expand.

The flange is made out of 3/8" plate and mates directly with the flat surface of the exhaust manifold outlet. Hopefully that will be more reliable than a donut gasket. I made a template out of hardboard panel then cut out the flange using a plasma cutter.

The flange was welded to one end of a 2-1/2", 3" radius J-bend and the turbo flange was welded to the other. The 1-1/2" tubing is for the wastegate.

The HD manifold is very beefy so it shouldn't have a problem supporting the turbo.

http://www.ckdesign-inc.com/images/Exhaust/ExhaustFlange3.JPG

http://www.ckdesign-inc.com/images/Exhaust/ExhaustFlange4.JPG

http://www.ckdesign-inc.com/images/Exhaust/ExhaustFlange5.JPG

http://www.ckdesign-inc.com/images/Exhaust/ExhaustFlange6.JPG

Here is the exhaust manifold.
300 4.9 Ford Heavy Duty F600 F700 New Exhaust Manifold | eBay

"sdiesel" on this forum also has an HD exhaust manifold that he may be willing to sell

 

[Ikosix]

Sweet!! Thanks pmuller9
I ordered the HD exhaust manifold from eBay today. I’ll look for a hx35 then build an adapter like curts56 did. Today we got the old engine on the stand and disassembled. It actually is quite clean. I got this truck from one of my lineman buddies. It actually ran good. 136k on the truck and he took good care of it. Not a big ridge on the cylinders. So now is where I’m a little intimidated. Not sure of my next step. On the heads. I want to do the screw in studs, Harland sharps, and the 1.94/160 valves. Any guidance or other ideas?
I’m not exactly sure what to order and what to tell the machine shop.
Thanks again for your help

 

[pmuller9]

You will need to strip the block of everything so it can be cleaned and inspected at the machine shop.
Remove the crankshaft and pistons, camshaft with the timing gear and all bearings including cam bearings.
Replace the main caps back on the block and snug the bolts. The caps are numbered and have directional arrows on them.
Remove the freeze plugs and all oil gallery allen head plugs. Be careful when you remove the freeze plugs that you don't hit a cylinder wall and crack it.
There are two locating dowels on the block deck. Remove them carefully and save them in a safe place.

The machinist needs to determine how much the cylinders need to be bored.
Discuss if the block should have a small cleanup cut taken off the block deck to make sure it is straight.

The crankshaft will need to have all the journals turned and polished for new bearings.

The pistons will need to be pressed off the connecting rods.
Then the connecting rods need to be resized using ARP rod bolts.

The head needs to be cleaned and checked for cracks
It should have screw in studs and the top of the valve guides should be cut for positive valve stem seals like the metal jacket Viton seals.
Talk to your machinist about installing hardened exhaust valve seats. You will need them.

The 1.94"/1.60" intake and exhaust valves increase power especially at the upper end of the power band.
The stock valve springs and retainers will need to be replaced with stiffer springs and different retainers.
You will want to consider doing some port work in the bowl area around the valve guides.

The valve lift on the turbo cam is low enough where you can use the stock rocker arms.
The roller rockers have a little better lift ratio but the stud locks usually require a higher valve cover for clearance.
Your choice.

 

[Ikosix]

This is all really good info. Thank you!

 

[pmuller9]

Your welcome. Please read the post again because I keep adding stuff.

 

[Ikosix]

Off topic a little..
So years ago I had the 250 in my old falcon
re-done. I read tons on Fordsix so I would know what it was I should do for best performance. More headers/carbs, and I didn’t assemble the motor.I remember thinking what a great website. The people are so willing to help. I’m glad I joined this group. I’m learning so much. Hopefully someone can read what I’m doing and get excited.
Ok back to the project...

 

[pmuller9]

The Holset HX35.
There is the early 8 blade compressor and the later 7 blade compressor.
The later 7 blade from the Cummins 5.9 24 valve is preffered.

The 1.94"/1.60" valves from Vintage Inlines are the same 4.810" length as the stock valves.
Port Flow Valve Set- 240-300 | mysite (vintageinlines.com)
If for some reason you have problems getting them from VI, SI valves is the supplier.
The SI part # is SEV 2533 and SEV 3005

You also have the option of using SBC 4.910" long valves.

 

[Ikosix]

Exhaust manifold ordered. I ordered the valves you mentioned from VI also. On Monday I will order the camshaft. Springs and lifters? Ideas on those. Also the studs. I’ll reuse the rockers.

 

[Ikosix]

I’m lookin for the hx35 7 blade. I see listings for a hx35w. Does the “w” mean wastegate? Do I want a internal or external wastegate? I thought the j pipe I’m building had the port for a wastegate. As soon as I get the turbo and hd manifold I’ll build the j pipe.

 

[pmuller9]

The 4.810" long vales gives you an installed spring height around 1.700"
You would use the Comp 942-12 spring and Comp 768-12 retainer.
That gives you a 115 lb seat pressure and 265 lbs open.

Yes "w" means wastegate.
I don't think a genuine HX35 from a Cummins Diesel comes without a wastegate.
You will probably need an external wastegate to control the turbo at a lower pressure.

You can buy exhaust housings that don't have the internal wastegate.
Amazon.com: Turbo Lab America HX35 Turbine Housing: Automotive

When you look at turbochargers be sure it says "Holset" on the compressor housing
There are a bunch of cheap knock-offs

 

[pmuller9]

Would you mind measuring the length of the rocker studs from the head tower to the top of the stud?
Thanks

 

[Ikosix]

If I’m measuring correctly it looks to be 1.63”

 

[pmuller9]

That's great. Thanks
You needed that measurement for the screw in stud length.
As you can see the stock studs are non-adjustable and really need to be replaced.