All Small Six No spark 68 200

This relates to all small sixes
HI Elijah, I am sorry to hear of your family's loss. Thank you for the picture it helps a lot. Your little ground strap from the Distribitor body to the point plate, that you marked as D is still in good condition however it is installed wrong on the points end it needs to be mounted on the top side of the points and under the mounting screw head in the rear. While your working on that little ground strap wire take a wire bush and clean up both the connector loops and their mounting points, and the mounting screw heads that can help in improving its grounding. The Number one issue though is that having the ground strap between the point plate and points won't let the points to set down on the point plate properly. There also should be a Gromlet on your new point lead wire that's coming through the Distribitor body to protect it from any rubbing damage that could wear though it's insulation, if you can't find a new one you could take that off your old lead wire and side in onto your nice new one. The Distribitor is the correct 1968 type and looks to be in fairly good condistion so it should work fine. It's probally ok but it might also help some if you clean up the plate plate of any grease, oil, and dirt by wiping it down good with a rag. There is a grease made to lube the point rubbing block of the points which helps them to last much longer too. I am fairly confident that with your new coil and the above minor fixes your engine is going to start and run great again. Best of luck
 
"When cranking I get between 5.5-8 volts with no spark."
The coil should receive full battery voltage while cranking.
Check your battery voltage when cranking then check the coil voltage when cranking.
Check the voltage at the I terminal of your solenoid while cranking. It could be zero which could cause a hard and or no start condition.
Sometimes when the I terminal voltage is zero while cranking the engine will start when the key is moved from crank to run as the battery and coil voltage to rise enough to start.
 
Back about 45 years ago I had a 66 Mustang 200 develop a hard start problem. It would crank and crank not start then maybe start when I turned the key from crank to run. I drove it over to a High School Adult Auto Shop night class that my old H.S. auto shop teacher ran. He performed voltage drop tests across the battery terminals-cables. This was OK. Next he connected his volt meter to the "I" terminal of the solenoid and checked the voltage while I cranked it. The voltage at the "I" terminal was zero. The "I' terminal voltage bypasses the the pink resistance wire while cranking to provide full battery voltage to the coil while cranking.
I replaced the solenoid and never had another problem. This may not be your problem. It's something to check. (I have found that many times people seek answers to problems which they have diagnosed wrong so of course any answers they receive will not cure what is really wrong with their vehicle. For example a person asks for vapor lock solutions. He gets lots of replies but they never solve his problem because he never had vapor lock.)
Ford Points dist wiring system.jpeg
 
Well Bubba I bit the bullet bought a new Cardone distributor after finding several burn or arching marks in my last one after i took the top plate off. And after the first one getting lost in the mail and another over nighted I put the new one in and it fired right up but just had a cylinder 3 miss this was because Cardone cut the - cable too long and it was hitting the rotor. I adjusted the wire and it runs like a top. Thank you guys for all of the knowlage. And even though I was not able to salvage my old one with new parts you all did teach me alot and I mean ALOT so thank you for your advice. Elijah Gerke
 
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